An induction service is usually a cleaning fluid that is injected into the engine air intake (the induction system) while the engine is running. The fluid is carried through the whole intake system so it cleans the throttle body, EGR system (if your engine has one), and the inlet valves. Probably worth while on GDi engines since they tend to suffer from carbon build up on the valves.

 

The 2013s that have the 1.8...are those GDI? I do not think so. Are the 2.0s GDI?

 

The 2013 Elantra is not a GDI the 2014 GT I am not sure. The induction service well, it is not recommended as routine maintenance in any owner's manual I have ever seen regardless of manufacturer. Perhaps ask the service rep to show you where in the owner's manual this service is listed? Now, if in fact the engine is not running properly, then as a last resort I may try it. Before doing that I would run a bottle of injection cleaner through the fuel fist to see if that helps.

However, an engine that is running fine does not need a regular induction service, it is a huge money maker for the dealership which is why it is pushed so hard by the service reps.

 

"Show me in the manual where it's needed..."

 

the 2014 GT is a GDi engine, and occasionally will need a valve cleaning service performed. Maybe every 50k miles? depends on oil change intervals, and how hard you push your engine regularly. definitely not worth the 180$... Taking the throttle body off, and spraying a can of valve cleaner in ones intake manifold is a 10 minute max job.

Fuel injection cleaner will NOT work to clean valves on GDi engines.

 

Port Injections pros!

 

The only ones who recommend this are the dealers and those who want your money.

This service suckers in millions of customers a year from many dealerships, not just Hyundai dealership.

 

They sold me on it for my Elantra. Exatly $180, as the Original Poster stated. I was complaining of a slightly shaky idle and was ASSURED this would resolve the problem. Well, if you were all wondering...

The only thing that changed was the $180 was debited out of my checking account before I'd driven off the Dealer's property. The shaky idle....STILL EXACTLY THE SAME.

They took me for a good ride....

 

So my gut was right. I knew it was b/s and probably something that I could do myself, if it was needed at all. I'll probably take CyprusCorner's advice and just do it myself every 50K or so. Thanks, guys!

 

The dealers really try to upsell (I guess that's their job). I went for a simple oil change - my first one since buying the car in the fall - and they tried to upsell me to a semi-synthetic oil change (sorry, just give me the 5W20 pls) and a tire rotation and balancing (despite the fact I had put on my winter tires and rims only about 6 weeks ago). Thx but no thx. Think I will start buying Hyundai filters and do my own oil changes rather than paying $70 at the dealer.

 

I do all maintenance myself. $70 for a cabin air filter change? $450 for a 50k mile "service"? NO THANKS. I keep my receipts for parts, and have done so much to my car that it wouldn't probably be covered under warranty anyway. I have 56k on the chassis and 6k on a "new" motor. If you know what you're doing and accept the risk of doing your own work, then by all means do it yourself. You can always do the Jiffy Lube / Drive-thru oil changer places for $30-$50 bucks. I won't go to a dealer unless something is REALLY wrong.

 

Not sure where my earlier posting went, but this is from Hyundai for the Elantra 1.8L GDI engine. I had the 1.8L in my 2013 coupe and was pretty sure it was a GDI engine. According to Hyundai, the Elantra 1.8L and GT 2.0L are both GDI. The 2.0L is 11.5:1 compression.


NU 1.8-LITER GDI ENGINE SPECIFICATIONSTypeI4 DOHC 16 ValvesDisplacement1.8L (1,797 cc)Bore x Stroke81 mm x 87.0 mmCompression Ratio10.3 : 1Fuel InjectionMulti-Point Fuel InjectionCylinder BlockHPDC AluminumCylinder HeadAluminumMax. Power (hp)148 @ 6,500rpmMax. Torque (lb-ft)131 @ 4,700rpm

 

The 1.8 is not direct-injected.

 

Interesting, because this is where the information came from:


THE NU 1.8-LITER ENGINE: BALANCING TECHNOLOGY AND VALUE FOR BEST-IN-CLASS PERFORMANCE


And specifically says it is a GDI engine in the data, and lists it for use in the Elantra. Did something change? This wouldn't be the first time a copy editor didn't proof read an announcement. Agree, most other sources, and some other Hyundai sources, state MPI for the 1.8L. Based on the compression ratio differences I do suspect you are right. Still impresses me that you can run an 11.5:1 compression engine on regular fuel. Back in my old hot rodding days that would never work with a big gas-sucking carb on top of even 10:1 compression engines.


Is there detail on just what an induction service is? Cleaning the throttle body, drawing cleaner into the head to hit the back side of the valves, or both?

 

That appears to be an error because in the facts sheet it shows fuel injection listed as 'Multi-port' not direct. None of the spotlights mention direct injection by name, either so I'm guessing somebody copied and pasted from the 1.6 or 2.0 which have direct injection and just forgot to remove the GDI listing


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Wow, I really struck a nerve with this one! lol

I like to do some of my own work, when I can. But where I live kind of limits what I can do - a condo with a shared parking lot and rules about performing car maintenance. Plus, anything with fluids I wouldn't want to do there because if I spill, forget it. It would be the end of the world. So I go to the dealer, but that's mostly because I don't know of a trustworthy mechanic to go to instead. It sucks.

 

I like to do some of my own work, when I can. But where I live kind of limits what I can do - a condo with a shared parking lot and rules about performing car maintenance. Plus, anything with fluids I wouldn't want to do there because if I spill, forget it. It would be the end of the world. So I go to the dealer, but that's mostly because I don't know of a trustworthy mechanic to go to instead. It sucks.

Old thread, but there are ways to work around this. Car club at work with a shop. Friend that will let you change the oil at their house. Worst case, get a sealed drain container, and you can drive to a shopping center or business parking lot and change the oil there.

Everyone with any car that is powered by an engine with GDI (Gas Direct Injection) needs to be aware of the possibility of carbon fouling around the intake valves and manifold runners

I think most of this F-U-D on GDI engines has been worked out by now. Early BMW/AUDI had major issues with carbon fouling. Ford has been using GDI since at least 2011 and I haven't heard of major issues with their engines. I think they adjusted the valve timing to allow some of the spray to go over the intake valves. I only have 3K miles on my Accent, so too early to tell, but I'm not losing sleep over it.

 

Finding a wrench you can trust is one of the great mysteries of life........dealer only sees my cars when the GT needs warranty work. Otherwise, OEM parts purchased from the dealer so they have a paper trail. Spreadsheet on the laptop recording everything ever done to the car, receipts for everything go in the filing cabinet so if/when I need to go back for work, I can back up everything.

Knock on wood - never had an issue yet other than the dealer calling to remind me that my cars need servicing

 

good article on the inherent problems of gdi:
Ask An Engineer: GDI Problems In A Nutshell - The Truth About Cars
and i think the 2.0 is gdi.

 

Yeah its a gdi. I wonder if the ten year warranty covers carbon buildup problems.

 

If you have a GDI engine keep reading:
Everyone with any car that is powered by an engine with GDI (Gas Direct Injection) needs to be aware of the possibility of carbon fouling around the intake valves and manifold runners.
The short story gets down to where the fuel enters the combustion chamber. Pre-GDI the fuel mixture entered BEFORE the intake valve, effectively cleaning deposits all the time. GDI the fuel is injected AFTER the intake valve leaving carbon to eventually build up on the valve, around the seat, in the combustion chamber and manifold. The sources of the carbon are the EGR and PCV systems intended to burn harmful pollutants in the engine instead of venting to the atmosphere where we all have to breath it. Injector cleaner fluids added to the fuel tank will have NO effect on the intake valve carbon in a GDI engine. I have two Hyundais with GDI engines and I am concerned especially about my 2012 Accent with 30K miles. I am in conversation with my local dealer where I bought it new. I want to know what they are doing and if intake system carbon cleaning is covered by warranty since it is technically an engine design issue.
There are numerous YOUTUBE videos and at least two show methods to deal with the carbon buildup.
This is going to turn into a major issue for owners auto companies as these vehicles age.

 

Yes newer gdi engines do not foul up like those of the past. It is a good idea to do the induction service every 15000 miles to keep the intake clean though. I do mine at home. It's super easy.

 

Wow! I was surprised to see this thread revived this morning! lol.

Since I posted this, I used the recommended CRC solution in a can (CRC Intake Valve Cleaner). It seemed to work well and as described. During the post-spray drive, the car let out some smoke - which I assume was the spray doing what it needed to. It may have been placebo, but I felt like there was a small increase in throttle response after this treatment. It's been running great ever since and I saved a ton of money by buying the can instead of paying the dealer to "service" the induction system.

 

Agreed. I used the crc intake valve cleaner as well. Also used their throttle body cleaner to get the throttle plate clean. Definitely seemed to smooth out the slight rough idle I had and restore a little power.

 

How frequently are you using the CRC cleaner?

 

I've only done it once so far, at about 50,000 miles.

 

Good to know. I'm at about 37,000 kms and due for an oil change (which I'm doing myself)....been thinking about doing the CRC service while I'm at it.

 

Just don't go spraying the CRC into the throttle body while running. The MAP sensor is in the intake, not in the intake tube, and will set off codes which will need to be cleared.

At 30K I went ahead and performed this service on my '14 "just to see". I wasn't having any performance issues, got the smoke that you will always get when introducing a cleaner. Casper gets the exact same performance and mileage before as after, and is the same since she had about 2500 miles on her.

In other words, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Hmmm....well I'm not having any issues...so maybe I'll just leave it Thx for the tip!!

 

I did mine at 15000 miles which is the same as when the dealer will try to sell you on their induction cleaner. I didn't throw anyour codes while doing this. I believe the crc is safe for your map

 

I took the airbox off and sprayed just behind the sensor. It was pretty easy and, in my opinion, worth it to avoid a code.