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  • GR8GUY ·
    Thanks for replying to my post buddy.Yes the forced regen was next port of call. My friend who is a mechanic and does all my work and he has the snap on diagnostic machine that has regenerated previous peugeot and nissan cars for me. Unfortunately he called me today to let me know he has been diagnosed with cancer and straight in for op. I have totally lost appetite to resolve car issue for now as gutted and this just puts things into perspective. Didnt want to not reply though hence pm thanks again
    [email protected] ·
    I disconnected the yellow connector EM02
    I measured voltage on pins 6,7 and 8 under different stalk switch conditions
    Switch at left turn: pin 6 alternating 12 v, 7 & 8 0 V Fast left dash light flash
    Switch at right turn: 0 v on all pins (678) Fast right dash flash
    Hazard switch on: 0 v on all pins Fast right dash flash (no left)
    Hazard on with left turn stalk: Pin 6 alternating 12v, 0v on 7 & 8. Both dash lights flash slowly
    Hazard on switch with right turn stalk: 0 v on all pins Fast right dash

    is the problem the stalk switch or the hazard switch?
    DIY Mechanic ·
    Hi Autospark,


    As you have been most helpful previously with my electrical queries, I wondered if you could help me with this one please?
    I've posted on an old thread "Aircon problem" in the 1st gen i10 2007-14 forum. Loads of views, but no replies.


    Car is 1.1 2008 i10.


    Do the high pressure switch and evaporator sensor operate on the aircon switch side of the aircon relay?


    Aircon switch lights up when on and there is a slight rise in engine revs, but no activation of aircon.


    Aircon relay tested on table top and is OK, but when aircon switch is on (or off) there is only 0.95v across the input switch side of the relay. Something is preventing the voltage getting to the relay to activate it.


    If the high pressure switch and evaporator sensor operate on this side of the circuit then I need to to start there. If they operate on the compressor circuit AFTER the relay, then I need to investigate the aircon switch itself first.


    As usual, many thanks!
    Dixie38 ·
    Good morning Autospark,
    Speaking to some Auto Electricians they are telling me the particular make of Alternator that I fitted is not good and prone to problems. So, have exchanged it for a Lucas alternator. Sadly problem of Alternator overheating still exists.
    So I now have ABS,ESP and hand brake light staying on and Alternator still overheating. Yesterday the engine became hard to start, would not go above 700 revs and started to surge emitting light coloured exhaust smoke. I think the end is nigh and thank you for your help. Dixie
    Pceagle ·
    Hey thank you for all the help diagnosing the electrical problem I had with Hyundai Tucson. Was wondering if you could help me with a brake issue I'm having as well. I had a rear break line blow a hole, so I replaced both break lines from the front drivers side inner fender all the way to the caliber. After doing so I have had a break peddle that is soft and only drivers side front and passenger side rear are working. When bleeding the breaks I get good flow on the breaks that are working but the other brakes don't seem to have the flow or pressure. I have replace the master cylinder thinking that was the problem, but did not change anything. Anything that you could suggest would be helpful.
    cmwiley2 ·
    Hey Sparky,
    You seem pretty knowledgeable in the Santa Fe Forum so I thought I'd ask for your opinion. I posted this yesterday. I'm puzzled since I'm not getting a CEL and it's in Limp Mode.


    Here's my tale regarding my 2004 Santa Fe. It's the 4 WD model with a 2.7, engine. I've had an issue with the C-S bolt coming loose and the harmonic balancer wobbling throwing the belt loose. My son was stranded due to the car running off the battery until everything quit. I tightened up the pulley and got it running and everything looks great until we drive it. It's in limp mode for some reason. I'm thinking there is some kind of electrical/computer issue due to running the battery down to dead and it sitting like this for a few days. The CEL is off. Is it possible that there are transmission problems that won't kick a code???

    We tried disconnecting the battery cables to reset computer but it had no effect on the limp mode.
    LuckyBSTARD ·
    Any chance you can look my thread on the P0171 & P0174 again and look at the photos I posted with the Live Data, one at the bottom of page 2 and the other on page 3, and tell me what think?
    torbaytony ·
    Hi Scott, my email is [email protected] and thanks for the help.
    most of my experience is on forklift trucks but have always messed around with cars.
    I have recently tried fitting led bulbs to my dash but they don't fit very well once the polarity is correct, they rattle on the hole and flash they display so I will wrap an elastic band around them
    will catch you later and thanks again
    scoobykids ·
    did rescope uing pc scope but just realised I probably chceked cyl 1 not cyl 4!
    here is trace, volts purple, current blue
    scoobykids ·
    hey Scott,
    tried to edit my original post but t wouldnt let me
    http://www.hyundai-forums.com/car-audio-video-electronics-closed-please-post-correct-forum-your-model/369881-obd-tool-recode-injectors-3.html

    Ive had the problems with my santa fe injector? return again. I tried the current clamp using my hiscan oscilloscoe but didnt get anything. may need to use different scope...
    I peeled back insulation and did voltage trace, here is the result, any ideas? (looks the same for both wires)
    charlescrown ·
    G'day Scottie. A wile back I mentioned a diode inside the DFI coils. I was just going thru the wiring on my EVO Lancer and found they have a switching transistor built into the coil obviously to switch the primary current away from the ECU and eliminate high induced voltages in the ECU. So maybe my info was not exact in saying it was a diode but a transistor. Cheers Dave
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