There probably isn't a significant statistical difference in the lubrication qualities of the premium oils discussed here within any given range of environmental conditions. You are basing your comparison on the sound of the engine, which is OK but you cannot use sound differences as an indicator of the effectiveness of the oil. Oils of different formulations and especially different viscosities are going to transmit the mechanical vibrations and sound waves differently. Higher viscosity oils are likely to accumulate in larger amounts in different locations of the engine and mute the sound in different ways. There is a tremendous amount of mechanical noise being generated in the engine especially in the valve assembly and the oil not only cleans and lubricates but it also deadens the sound.

I think it will be interesting to see your findings but I wouldn't be surprised if a higher viscosity oil seems to run quieter at higher RPM's but I don't think that is an indicator that any one oil, or oil of a certain viscosity to be beter at protecting the engine.

 

I have ran both based on availability and price. Only full synthetic and I noticed no differences in noise, mpg, or anything else. Don't overthink it just buy a good quality oil and Hyundai filter and enjoy the rest if your life.

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I have ran both based on availability and price. Only full synthetic and I noticed no differences in noise, mpg, or anything else. Don't overthink it just buy a good quality oil and Hyundai filter and enjoy the rest if your life.

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Been using Quakerstate 5w20 full synthetic every time thus far. 10,000km interval and the level barely dropped (stayed within the operating range on the dipstick). I may try 5w30 next time just see if there is any difference.

Interesting discussion...

Maybe I was being too paranoid. I got both oil samples back. Both factory-fill and Mobil 1 proved to helped my engine regardless of the noise. The scientists said that the oil and oil filter did an excellent job. They noticed no out-of-whack readings on metals belonging to the valvetrain.

 

I am not sure if it was due to oil or what but in Rondo (V6, 2.7) the best fuel economy I achieved when I had 10W-30 in it... Full synthetic, Valvoline, if I recall.

Anyway, now I am switching to 5W-30 (from 20).

 

I need to know the MPG and noise differences between the two viscosity!! Thanks a bunch. Please tell me the brand of oil as well!!
thanks!

As for MPG differences you will have to rely on manufactures' controlled tests or your own as everyone drives differently. I don't think you will notice much repeatable differences.

Now the noise surprised me. And as I said there was a difference between cold and operating temp at 2-3k (not even high RPM) but I had to be paying close attention with everything off.

If I perceive a difference with 5W-30 I will switch and forget about it.

 

Well I may as well get my feet wet in this forum since I've sure gotten some good info from it the past few months.

I have a '13 Coupe and just did my first oil change. Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 and a Hyundai filter (with a Fumoto valve added). My indicated mileage went from a steady 29mpg to 33 doing the same driving. No highway, stop and go, bopping around town.
Since I already verified with a GPS that my speedometer is not accurate I have to say these numbers are also not truly accurate, however they are relative to each other and telling me my mileage has increased.
I reset the MPG readout several times both before, and since, I did the oil change and the readout would go back to showing the same numbers.

We have a 5th season here in Georgia, it's called h-e-l-l, and we are getting into it now which is why I went with the 5-30 over the 5-20.

 

I have a '13 Coupe and just did my first oil change. Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 and a Hyundai filter (with a Fumoto valve add.

I just installed the Fumoto also, have them on all vehicles, but this one I could not set so that the spring action was other than on the bottom. Still okay, just that the oil will drip on the lever in lieu of straight down. Love these valves, had one on my Camry for 21 years, never failed.

 

^ :00000732: Thanks for finally speaking up!

 

I was debating about switching oil as well, however I figured there all same as in at start up especially first of the day I get about 4-5 seconds of click,click,clicks! I figured it was lifter/rocker noise due to oil drained overnight to the oil pan and just does it till the oil gets up there and is totally quiet after that! So it'll probably do it during summer due to heat so oil thins out causing some valve train noise, in the winter 5w/20 is fine it's thinner gets up into the engine quick. I don't know just my thoughts, do as replied earlier just do your maintenance on schedule and enjoy the drives.

 

I was debating about switching oil as well, however I figured there all same as in at start up especially first of the day I get about 4-5 seconds of click,click,clicks! I figured it was lifter/rocker noise due to oil drained overnight to the oil pan and just does it till the oil gets up there and is totally quiet after that!

After the initial start after an oil change that click click is usually the filter drain back valve not working properly or not having one. Is it and OEM filter?

 

Check this article out. Porsche, Audi, VW, Mercedes-Benz and Subaru had problems with lighter oils.

http://autos.yahoo.com/news/consumer-reports-sees-oil-vanish-test-cars-140000066.html

 

Check this article out. Porsche, Audi, VW, Mercedes-Benz and Subaru had problems with lighter oils.

Yahoo!

Yeah, there have been several complaints on NASIOC about people mysteriously burning up oil in the new Impreza (FB20 engine). Some people blew up engines and were denied warranty claims in some cases. That was last model year however, haven't seen much of anything recently.

 

Well, that's not good. Could 5w20 ruining our engines? Many of us are having valvetrain noises. I hope Hyundai is not making mistakes like the Germans.

 

In reading that article, I saw one common denominator. All were using an oil with a viscosity rating starting with "0." As in 0W-20, etc. Hyundai recommends "5" W-20. Could a viscosity rating of 5 make that much difference? Wish I could answer that.

But, in weekly checks of my own vehicle's oil level (5W-20), I have not seen one noticeable drop in the dipstick's level. Six oil changes, and counting. So far, so good.

I agree with Consumer Reports: $100,000 car shouldn't need a quart of oil added every couple of thousand miles. I buy cars to keep me out from under the hood, not to chain me to the engine bay, ever vigilant.

 

As indicated in the sticky oil thread, I have switched back to 5w30 after perceiving high-rpm engine clatter on 5w20.

Yes, it could all be in my head. But common sense tells me that the 5w20 recommendation was based on the politics of CAFE and global warming, and supported by a consumer MPG hysteria. It never had anything to do with engineering.

Oil viscosity recommendations were not the only thing that got stretched during the Inconvenient Truth mania. So did MPG claims and service intervals, both of which have since been dialed back in a number of high-profile cases. It isn't hard to imagine 5w20 being subjected to some sober second thoughts as well.

 

Many foreign manufactures have really extended oil drain intervals, 10,000 miles or so. Well, my hybrid actually has a 10,000 mile OCI also. If you are changing oil every 3000-3750 miles you may not see any level change on the dipstick, changing at 10,000 you probably would. Kind of relative and high speed driving does consume more oil.

I believe all 0W are synthetic whereas the 5w may not be. My readings on the 0 or 5W 20s is that they protect as well as the W30s. I am sure there was a similar discomfort when the norm went to W30 from the standard 10W40 of 30 or so years ago.

 

I am sure there was a similar discomfort when the norm went to W30 from the standard 10W40 of 30 or so years ago.

There was. Change always makes people uncomfortable. But sometimes it should.

It was a good idea to replace 10w40 with 10w30, as tighter engine specs required thinner oil. It was also a good idea to replace 10w30 with 5w30, as more became known about cold-start engine damage. But the switch to 5w20 was motivated entirely by CAFE, Al Gore, and a cast of other characters whose automotive advice I would not trust as far as I can throw it. Nothing I read on bobistheoilguy.com or any other source convinces me that there is any benefit to using the stuff... just that it probably won't hurt my engine. The fact that car manufacturers recommend 5w20 "for better fuel economy" while leaving 5w30 next to it in the owner's manual tells me that even they don't buy into it with any conviction.

 

Been using Quakerstate 5w20 full synthetic every time thus far. 10,000km interval and the level barely dropped (stayed within the operating range on the dipstick). I may try 5w30 next time just see if there is any difference.

Interesting discussion...

 

This is some food for thought. I am currently running 5W20 full syn (castrol) change every 6000 km. I too am thinking of trying 5W30 next change.

 

This is some food for thought. I am currently running 5W20 full syn (castrol) change every 6000 km. I too am thinking of trying 5W30 next change.

You can easily and safely stretch the interval to 10,000kms with full synthetic. Used to go 15,000kms all the time with my civic. Just keep an eye on the level and you're fine.

Changing full synthetic every 6k is not really necessary. Spending almost twice as much on oil as you need to.

If that's what you want to do, by all means. Just sayin.

 

This may be one of those debates where there is no winner.

My understanding of the anti drain back valve is that it keeps the oil in the filter when the engine has stopped. Due to the way the filter is mounted in my Elantra, this concept is rendered moot. There are plenty of other ways/galleries for oil throughout the engine to drain into the pan and anything that operates hydraulically can be affected.

One other thing to consider is that these engines are water cooled and also oil cooled. Oil plays an important role in "carrying" the heat away from heat sensitive areas. Bearings, cylinder walls, any place there is friction generated.
It is also my understanding that the lighter weight oil does a better job at this and synthetic especially handles heat better.

Sorry if I've rambled but the point I've tried to make is that there are many things to consider when choosing an oil viscosity. Including geographic location.
There is not one answer for everyone.