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Transmission problems after changing fluid.

7.1K views 28 replies 7 participants last post by  dtech  
#1 ·
I have a 2002 sonata gls v6 with 156,000 miles. I bought it at 152,000 miles and it has ran pretty solid. I figured to change the fluids since i didnt know the history of the vehicle, and the tranny was a little slugish shifting when it was cold. I drained 5 quarts(about) and put in 5 quarts, fluid was pretty dark and quit some shavings on the plug. The first day or two it ran the same as before and then it wouldnt shift past 25mph... the rpms will rise to 4,000 in second gear like its stuck in 2nd. And a loud noticeable clunk at about 3,000 rpms. I dont want to push it so i stay at 20mph , a mechanic friend of mine said i filled it to much according to the dipstick and since theres codes but no codes for tranny(for o2 sensor). I drained about 1 quart and then nothing was on the dipstick, so i put about half quart of the same stuff back in to get some on the stick. Car still runs crappy. Any ideas? When i drained the 5 quarts it was warm so since fluid expands it may have been really 4.5quarts(cold) and i put in 5 quarts of new fluid (cold) which may have expanded to over fill the tranny.
 

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#2 ·
Fluids don't expand or contract...changing trans fluid is not the same as changing engine oil. You need professional help at this point.
 
#8 ·
I'd buy a good tranny flush additive and do another drain and refill, use Valvoline Max ATF, no need to waste extra $$ on the overpriced Hyundai brew.
 
#10 ·
I use Valvoline Max and you need to drain and fill at least 3 times to get rid of the old fluid..Drain and fill drive a week or 500 to a 1000 miles and and drain and fill again. Do this at least 3 times. And it does take 5 quarts to fill it back up. Check it after driving it awhile , it needs to be hot when you check it.
 
#12 ·
Yes, it's a fair bit of build up but that's what I'd expect to see especially if the drain interval has been long. When you see metal flecks sparkling in the drained fluid or metal fragments on that magnet, That's when I'd get concerned
 
#14 ·
The OP indicates a loud metallic clunk when shifting - to me that points to a problem with the shift solenoids - which is why I recommend he puts a tranny flush additive prior to changing out the fluid again. ATF is oil but contains a lot of additives including detergents, anti corrosion and so on. Adding new fluid could have dislogded some crud, the flush can be effective in breaking stuff down and removing in when drained.
The photo of the plug is pretty much meaningless, the condition (color, smell, consistency) of the fluid drained more telling.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the replies..
Im not the most experienced so i took it to a well known shop with a high rating to diagnose it for only 89$.. ill keep updated. But cant a flush do damage to a high mileage tranny? It does seem like something is strictly blocking it from shifting past 2nd gear. I have a photo of the fluid if that would help anyone.
 
#16 ·
When people hear the word "flush" some associate it with a power flushing machine - that is not what I recommended, but an additive to your tranny that is in there for a short period, allowing it to break up deposits then you drain it - once, preferrably 2x. A shop might be able to pull any trouble codes stored, but it seemed that your issues began after your exchanged fluid, so if the valve body is blocked it has to be cleared.
 
#19 ·
I'm with Dtech , or could be valves sticking in the valve body. I just went through a situation with a 5 speed A5HF1 and a full flush and some driving freed things up although in the end I replaced teh valve body for good measure. Even after a couple of thousand K's the fluid had a fair amount of material in it and so too the magnet but that's what happens when you let things slide
 
#20 ·
it sounds like a valve(s) issue - sticking or obstructed. With most auto boxes when the rpms hit a certain level and normal shifts aren't happening electronics signal the solenoid - and you can get an abrupt clunking shift. There are some good tranny flushes available that can dissolve a lot of crud and free up the valve body and other moving pieces. I'm not much of an additive fan but I have seen auto rx work in engines and flushes in trannies. Usually worth a try before going to a shop - where it can become a roll of the dice.
 
#21 ·
So the shop said you already know ‘i need a new tranny’ they said there was alot of metal after pulling the plug and rans transmission codes to get a faulty 3rd gear(which when i ran the codes there were no tranny codes) to avoid paying the 2,000 dollars they want.. so i should just get an additive and drain and fill 2x to try and flush the valves?
 
#22 ·
likley toast but additive ~ $15 , Vavoline Max life ~ $18 or whatever ATF is cheapest might be worth a try, I wouldn't do a 2nd drain and fill unless you see marked improvement after the 1st drain. Did they specific what the code indicated - faulty shift solenoid or something else ?
 
#23 ·
Ill give it a shot. It does at least go 20mph so i can atleast transport it lol. They didnt specifiy any codes they said “we got a tranny code for a faulty shifting in 3rd gear” but who knows it could be bogus cause i ran the codes and didnt get any for the tranny.
 
#25 ·
you might enjoy this small bit from a mechanic about how some transmission shops operate. Since you cleaned your magnet once and metal shavings were again found after the fluid change - that's why I think your shop may be giving you an honest assessment.

" it's an automatic, are they shavings or small flakes? How many, how much? When I did fluid changes some years ago, I removed the xmiss pan for access to the filter, and usually saw a round magnet stuck to the bottom and full of metal it collected in the 50-70k miles it had sat there. Nothing wrong with the xmiss, I'd seen it many times, didn't caution the owner; I cleaned the pan and magnet. It was stuff worn from clutches and bands from normal use. The manufacturer put the magnet there to keep metal from floating around, clogging the filter; they expected it.
According to one of my employees who worked for a national transmission rebuilder, she was instructed to show the customer a pan with a boatload of shavings/flakes kept in back, and recommend an overhaul. The national rebuilder, famous at the time, is no longer in business... "
 
#28 ·
Why they recommend replacing the hood supports and nothing else is baffling, especially since they note the condition if the tranny fluid.
Do what you suggest and report back with the results.
 
#29 ·
Because when the mechanic was leaning down checking under the hood it probably came down on him, that happened to me recently on my 2004 Saab but only in cold weather, doesn't matter if the tranny or engine is shot, gotta keep those hood struts in tip top condition.