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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 sonata gls v6 with 156,000 miles. I bought it at 152,000 miles and it has ran pretty solid. I figured to change the fluids since i didnt know the history of the vehicle, and the tranny was a little slugish shifting when it was cold. I drained 5 quarts(about) and put in 5 quarts, fluid was pretty dark and quit some shavings on the plug. The first day or two it ran the same as before and then it wouldnt shift past 25mph... the rpms will rise to 4,000 in second gear like its stuck in 2nd. And a loud noticeable clunk at about 3,000 rpms. I dont want to push it so i stay at 20mph , a mechanic friend of mine said i filled it to much according to the dipstick and since theres codes but no codes for tranny(for o2 sensor). I drained about 1 quart and then nothing was on the dipstick, so i put about half quart of the same stuff back in to get some on the stick. Car still runs crappy. Any ideas? When i drained the 5 quarts it was warm so since fluid expands it may have been really 4.5quarts(cold) and i put in 5 quarts of new fluid (cold) which may have expanded to over fill the tranny.
 

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Fluids don't expand or contract...changing trans fluid is not the same as changing engine oil. You need professional help at this point.
 

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Fluids don't expand or contract.
Fluids do expand and contract.
Water for instance expand with heat
Also contracts when cold
And water expands when it freezes (only fluid known to expand when frozen)

My question is did he use the right tranny fluids?? SPIII??

Note: Fluids do not compress.
 

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Fluids do expand and contract.
Water for instance expand with heat
Also contracts when cold
And water expands when it freezes (only fluid known to expand when frozen)

My question is did he use the right tranny fluids?? SPIII??

Note: Fluids do not compress.
The Lord made water do that so ice would float. He didn't want us drowning when ice skating. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fluids do expand and contract.
Water for instance expand with heat
Also contracts when cold
And water expands when it freezes (only fluid known to expand when frozen)

My question is did he use the right tranny fluids?? SPIII??

Note: Fluids do not compress.
Thanks for the reply, yes i used recommended sp3.
 

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I'd buy a good tranny flush additive and do another drain and refill, use Valvoline Max ATF, no need to waste extra $$ on the overpriced Hyundai brew.
 

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They most definitely expand and why often there is a cold and hot mark on the stick
Because it flows differently...it has to go through a countless number of passages that change as it shifts gears. Hydraulics is based on the fact that fluids don't compress.
 

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I use Valvoline Max and you need to drain and fill at least 3 times to get rid of the old fluid..Drain and fill drive a week or 500 to a 1000 miles and and drain and fill again. Do this at least 3 times. And it does take 5 quarts to fill it back up. Check it after driving it awhile , it needs to be hot when you check it.
 

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Yes, it's a fair bit of build up but that's what I'd expect to see especially if the drain interval has been long. When you see metal flecks sparkling in the drained fluid or metal fragments on that magnet, That's when I'd get concerned
 

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I've never seen shards like that...only metallic paste. o_O
 

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I've never seen shards like that...only metallic paste. o_O
The OP indicates a loud metallic clunk when shifting - to me that points to a problem with the shift solenoids - which is why I recommend he puts a tranny flush additive prior to changing out the fluid again. ATF is oil but contains a lot of additives including detergents, anti corrosion and so on. Adding new fluid could have dislogded some crud, the flush can be effective in breaking stuff down and removing in when drained.
The photo of the plug is pretty much meaningless, the condition (color, smell, consistency) of the fluid drained more telling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the replies..
Im not the most experienced so i took it to a well known shop with a high rating to diagnose it for only 89$.. ill keep updated. But cant a flush do damage to a high mileage tranny? It does seem like something is strictly blocking it from shifting past 2nd gear. I have a photo of the fluid if that would help anyone.
 

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Thanks for the replies..
Im not the most experienced so i took it to a well known shop with a high rating to diagnose it for only 89$.. ill keep updated. But cant a flush do damage to a high mileage tranny? It does seem like something is strictly blocking it from shifting past 2nd gear. I have a photo of the fluid if that would help anyone.
When people hear the word "flush" some associate it with a power flushing machine - that is not what I recommended, but an additive to your tranny that is in there for a short period, allowing it to break up deposits then you drain it - once, preferrably 2x. A shop might be able to pull any trouble codes stored, but it seemed that your issues began after your exchanged fluid, so if the valve body is blocked it has to be cleared.
 

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Thanks for the replies..
Im not the most experienced so i took it to a well known shop with a high rating to diagnose it for only 89$.. ill keep updated. But cant a flush do damage to a high mileage tranny? It does seem like something is strictly blocking it from shifting past 2nd gear. I have a photo of the fluid if that would help anyone.
 

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Thanks for the replies..
Im not the most experienced so i took it to a well known shop with a high rating to diagnose it for only 89$.. ill keep updated. But cant a flush do damage to a high mileage tranny? It does seem like something is strictly blocking it from shifting past 2nd gear. I have a photo of the fluid if that would help anyone.
Well, would have said that before you drain and fill tranny then had problems with the tranny.
Now, you are in recovery mode.
Anyway, hope you get it fixed for cheap.
 

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I'm with Dtech , or could be valves sticking in the valve body. I just went through a situation with a 5 speed A5HF1 and a full flush and some driving freed things up although in the end I replaced teh valve body for good measure. Even after a couple of thousand K's the fluid had a fair amount of material in it and so too the magnet but that's what happens when you let things slide
 

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I'm with Dtech , or could be valves sticking in the valve body. I just went through a situation with a 5 speed A5HF1 and a full flush and some driving freed things up although in the end I replaced teh valve body for good measure. Even after a couple of thousand K's the fluid had a fair amount of material in it and so too the magnet but that's what happens when you let things slide
it sounds like a valve(s) issue - sticking or obstructed. With most auto boxes when the rpms hit a certain level and normal shifts aren't happening electronics signal the solenoid - and you can get an abrupt clunking shift. There are some good tranny flushes available that can dissolve a lot of crud and free up the valve body and other moving pieces. I'm not much of an additive fan but I have seen auto rx work in engines and flushes in trannies. Usually worth a try before going to a shop - where it can become a roll of the dice.
 
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