Hi guys,

Proud owner of a 15' Limited 2.0 Turbo (not to brag but there might be small differences inside >)

Anyhow so I was able to locate the wires for the turn signals in the back. Easy to add LED and resistor.

As for the front, I have never seen a wireless socket before so I have no idea how to tap into it with a resistor other than something called a LED Decoder?

Anyone have any ideas? Weird to have back LED turn signals and the front is stock :grin2:

Thanks!

Welcome,most of the Limited turbo cars are longer by a good foot over your car. That would explain any differences inside.:wink:

 

No one have changed their turn signals to LED yet? There's gotta be someone! Lol

 

You need a resistor (~3 ohms) on each LED across the +12V and ground wires to make them operate normally.

 

Could you please explain why do you need resistor?

 

You need to locate the turn signal wire and the ground that go directly into the headlight. The bulbs on my '13 are also wireless since it makes the contact to the signal internally. I had to tap the wires that plug directly into the assembly.

I also did a quick search and found this in seconds http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-20...ms.com/lf-2015-sonata-i45/341817-headlight-wiring-harness-pins-turn-signal.html

 

So we need 4 resistors like 2 for rear and 2 for the front turn signals? also is it possible someone can show a diagram how its done please

 

Yes, you will need 4 resistors.

The rear should only have two wires so that is pretty straight forward and the front can be found in the link that I posted above ^^.

 

Hi guys,

Upon looking up more about all of these things, there are CANBUS LED bulbs out there. Some supposedly say plug and play as is because it has built in resistor so does that technically mimic the normal bulb so if the resister is ON the LED itself, it would still show a burn out bulb by hyper blinking if the LED does go out? But people still say that's a scam and they do hyper blink regardless.

Funny how some company doesn't think of that yet, why not actually make the LED have the internal resistance as a normal bulb so it can just be plug and play and it would still how error when it goes out? I mean sure it'll be more pricey but it keeps everything factory and not a bunch of wires being clipped around and making it all ugly inside. Lol

Anyhow I looked up some really high powdered LED's. Supposedly 25/30W, would that mean it might not need a resistor at all if it does indeed push what they advertise?

There are also these connectors called the "LED Decoder". Does that help at all? From what I see it does keep it factory if you ever decide to revert back because there isn't any wire splicing or clamping involved.

 

Some supposedly say plug and play as is because it has built in resistor so does that technically mimic the normal bulb so if the resister is ON the LED itself, it would still show a burn out bulb by hyper blinking if the LED does go out? But people still say that's a scam and they do hyper blink regardless.

Funny how some company doesn't think of that yet, why not actually make the LED have the internal resistance as a normal bulb so it can just be plug and play and it would still how error when it goes out?

I'd imagine part of the problem is just the way LED "bulbs" are made. There are almost always going to be multiple LEDs. If one fails the world doesn't really end since there are others to keep the overall functionality working. Until you get down to just 20% of the overall "bulb" at which point you should probably get yourself to a mechanic (not that people ever do, incandescent or LED).

 

Do you need the resistor to make the bulbs works. I tried to install but it not even turn on.

 

If the bulb doesn't light up something is wrong because I am able to get it to light up (LED) just fine, just when it's signalling is when it hyperblinks. It blinks normally when you hit the emergency light switch.

The resistor suppose to not make it hyperblink >

 

Is this the tap you guys use to connect the resistor right? 25 Red 22 18 GA AWG Gauge 12 Volt Wire Taps Scotch Lock Connectors Terminals | eBay

 

Tap parts...



Yes, that is the tap that is supplied when you purchase resistors. At least from Diode Dynamics. Just make double sure there is contact with the metal splice in the tap. I had one that didn't and was totally frustrated by it.

 

Built in resistor...

Originally Posted by GoneRogue View Post
Some supposedly say plug and play as is because it has built in resistor so does that technically mimic the normal bulb so if the resister is ON the LED itself, it would still show a burn out bulb by hyper blinking if the LED does go out? But people still say that's a scam and they do hyper blink regardless.

Funny how some company doesn't think of that yet, why not actually make the LED have the internal resistance as a normal bulb so it can just be plug and play and it would still how error when it goes out?

Greetings, GoneRogue your statement in the first paragraph is correct. To claim they don't need a resistor is a scam!

The second and why they don't build in a resister is that not all bulbs need the resister only the ones that rely on a flasher unit as the T/S do. Cost! Why pay for what I don't need and manufacturing costs tooling for 2 different yet the same bulb. Incandescent bulbs don't have built in resistors they just have a high resistance due to lighting the filament itself.

 

Originally Posted by GoneRogue View Post
Some supposedly say plug and play as is because it has built in resistor so does that technically mimic the normal bulb so if the resister is ON the LED itself, it would still show a burn out bulb by hyper blinking if the LED does go out? But people still say that's a scam and they do hyper blink regardless.

Funny how some company doesn't think of that yet, why not actually make the LED have the internal resistance as a normal bulb so it can just be plug and play and it would still how error when it goes out?

Greetings, GoneRogue your statement in the first paragraph is correct. To claim they don't need a resistor is a scam!

The second and why they don't build in a resister is that not all bulbs need the resister only the ones that rely on a flasher unit as the T/S do. Cost! Why pay for what I don't need and manufacturing costs tooling for 2 different yet the same bulb. Incandescent bulbs don't have built in resistors they just have a high resistance due to lighting the filament itself.

They're out there. I think Superbright LEDS or something like that has them.

 

If you guys are still looking for this information, this is the first mod I did when I got my car home. the front is a little tricky, and youll need some small hands to fit to put the resistors, but it is 100% doable.

I just bought the LEDs off of Ebay.

There is one thing you will have to do though for the rear blinkers. Since LEDs have to have the correct Positive and negative flow, you will have to cut the rear signal wires and reverse them for the polarity.

Ill take some pictures this weekend and share them if you guys want.

 

LED lamps use much less electricity so the car thinks a bulb is burned-out if you change to LED. When one of your original turn lamps is out, they hyper-blink to let you know they are out. LED (less power consumption) simulates this situation causing the hyper-blinking. The load resistor fixes this by using more power and fooling the car into thinking it is a regular bulb. I purchased my bulbs from dioddynamics. Below is the wiring configuration for the front bulbs since the car uses a wireless bulb socket. Access the plug connector that hooks into the lighting assembly and trim some of the bundling material.

Driver side: Connect resistor to Blue/Orange wire and thick black wire.
Passenger side: Connect resistor to Red/Yellow wire and thick black wire.

This is the wiring for a Limited 2015. I changed all my turn signals and back-up bulbs with the brightest LED bulbs available. Your wiring might be different. Good luck.

 

I changed all my turn signals and back-up bulbs with the brightest LED bulbs available.

Can I please ask which LED bulbs you used for your front turn signals? I swapped out my rear turn signal bulbs for Cree XB-D bulbs from The Retrofit Source. I haven't bought any bulbs for the front yet because I wanted to make sure I get the right ones. Thanks!

 

So the front turn signals are 1157 and the rear turn signals are 1156 right? Does anyone happen to know the size of the rear tail light bulbs (brake light)?

 

All this talk of resistors and such. Would be better if we could get Hyundai to alter the BCM code and add an LED option so the lights would blink at the correct rate and not let the lower current requirements of the LED trigger a bulb failure. LED's in the electronic world require a current limiting resistor to prevent burn out. Typically run on 10-30ma for a single element, not the multiple element assemblies being discussed here. If the BCM code could be written with an LED option like we have on the Sonata where you can pick your steering effort, unlock options, chimes, etc. Then all we would have to do is make sure the LED assembly is installed in the correct polarity as LED's only pass current in one direction where an incandescent bulb is bi-directional.

 

Anyone take a look at these?

LED Bulbs - Turn Signal and Brake Lights - Load-Resistor Free - Shark Racing

Would be a nice alternative so we dont have to samurai our wiring...

 

Back blinker

The back blinkers need to be physically cut and reversed wired for the led to light up then you need the resistors. I got mine from walmart/auto zone.

 

Here are the front blinkers. They both essentially hook up this way with the resistor. One is blue with orange stripe and the other is red with orange i think.

 

Trying to post a video but need five post. This is my fourth post so i can add a link in the next one.

 

http://youtu.be/RQaGvGDqwhI

 

Thought I'd chime in with my experience. I did a similar conversion in my previous car (genesis coupe) and while the leds looked gorgeous at night (as the video shows), they looked HORRIBLE during a bright sunny day. They were barely visible and a safety hazard since other drivers can't see your blinkers that well. I found that Leds in general, even the strongest ones, do not do project well in housings made for incasdescent bulbs and you lose visibility. I'm not trying to discourage anyone from going this route but it is something to keep in mind.

Another route to look into is turning your entire led tailight into a turn signal, similar to cadillac tailights. youtube.com/watch?v=5huRqEmleKU

 

I kinda got lazy to read near the end of page 2 so I apologize if this has been covered already. But with respect to error free they are out there, there are crappy ones and good ones. I think ijdmtoy or someone has ones that work too. Maybe check DEautokey. A lot of guys on the VW forum get theirs from there. Maybe they can develop something for the sonatas if there is enough interest.

Not sure on the sonata, but my other car is canbus as well for indicators and when I got the bulb out on the dash it hyper flashed inside the car but all the bulbs except for a lose one were blinking at the normal rate. Not sure if the sonata exhibits the same behavior.


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