Very informative -- thanks for sharing!

 

FIY:

I combined & retitled a few older threads, and added a DIY video for cleaning & checking your brakes:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/dm-2013-santa-fe/305889-front-brake-noise-squeaking.html

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/dm-2013-santa-fe/321505-diy-front-brake-pad-check-clean-video.html

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/dm-20...dm-2013-santa-fe/237161-chatroom-brake-pads-rotors-oem-organic-ceramic-etc.html

 

Awesome. Looking forward to the spring video doing the pins etc.

Up here with all the salt and crud they put on the roads in the winter, a spring clean and re-lube is a must if you want to avoid calipers or pads seizing against the rotor and causing premature wear. Had this happen to me twice over the years which resulted in new pads and rotors way before replacement should have been required.

 

Nice job on the video, good clear camera work

 

This is awesome. Thanks a million

Cheers
Jeff

 

thanks guys

 

Brake check...

Informative & competent! Well done and thank you.

 

IM, the degree of ease to undertake some basic maintenance of the brakes has encouraged me to do mine, either this weekend or next as a pre-winter check. Plan to do front and back, and may just tackle cleaning and lubing the pins. Will do the same in spring, but may also go as far as painting the calipers and rotor hats with a either black or silver (TBD).

Actually, your video got me excited to tackle this so I began doing some research on what products to use to clean and to lube the pad guides and the pins. Lots of opinions but there seems to be a resounding consensus on a product call Sil-Glyde for the pins and pads. Also also heard good things about CRC Brake clean, although split on chlorinated vs non-chlorinated, the latter being safer, but some say less effective.

Not sure if this should be in a different thread, but wonder if any members have any thoughts or preferences on lube or cleaning products for brake assemblies.

 

IM, the degree of ease to undertake some basic maintenance of the brakes has encouraged me to do mine, either this weekend or next as a pre-winter check. Plan to do front and back, and may just tackle cleaning and lubing the pins. Will do the same in spring, but may also go as far as painting the calipers and rotor hats with a either black or silver (TBD).

good to hear man. proud of you!

brake inspections and cleanings should be done every 6 months. brakes are the single most important feature on a car, and yet they are used up until they are worn and failing. i inspect mine every 6 months, and check for potential failures:

leaks(from the brake line)
bulging piston boots (thus the internal piston seal is leaking fluid past)
cracked, worn, failed brake pads
and if i have a friend handy, i also do a brake fluid bleeding procedure(future video)

Actually, your video got me excited to tackle this so I began doing some research on what products to use to clean and to lube the pad guides and the pins.

i didnt film myself lubing the guide pins, (under the advice of ms.imstricken), for the fear of over-confusing rookie DIYers.
the procedure is extremely simple. i almost wish i filmed it.

Lots of opinions but there seems to be a resounding consensus on a product call Sil-Glyde for the pins and pads.

i dont really stress brands. as long as its synethic grease that wont eat up rubber parts, and non lithium which will run and dry up quickly. if you do your brakes every 6 months, the brand wont matter. if someone is the type to only inspect/clean brakes when they have failed after 50k, then maybe that person should take brands into consideration.

Also also heard good things about CRC Brake clean, although split on chlorinated vs non-chlorinated, the latter being safer, but some say less effective.

i use walmart branded brake cleaner. its cheap, and i can use more of it, without it hitting the bank too hard. i'd rather the cheaper stuff, use plenty of it, maybe even a tooth brush - and call it a day. CRC anything is going to be great stuff. but its almost a dollar more than the walmart branded stuff. NEVER USE CARB-CLEANER. ONLY BRAKE CLEANER SPRAY!

Not sure if this should be in a different thread, but wonder if any members have any thoughts or preferences on lube or cleaning products for brake assemblies.

its fine here.

if you want to clean and lube your slider pins: (only remove 1 at a time. one has a rubber plunger, one doesn't. this way you put the correct one back into its respective slot.)
1. find the slider pin, and gently release the rubber boot. its held in by its own force. there is a lip & grove on the slider pin, and the boot has a lip that fits into the grove. do not use any metal tools, as they will tear the boot.

2. once you released the boots grip around the slider pin. gently pull it out, and wipe it down with a lint free rag/paper towel. (i'd leave the boot as is, and not mess with it. its not worth the potential tear)

3. apply a generous amount of grease. the more the better.

4. re-insert it into the respect slot & push it in & out a few time. you will hear the grease work its way around, and maybe make a few squishing noises. its fine.

5. apply the boot lip over the slider pin, and twist the slider pin to make sure the boot is applied evenly over the slider pin.


(one of the slider pins, has a rubber grommet on the end of it. be gentle, and dont tear it.)

done.

 

about a year ago, i did a toyota highlander as well. (all basic single piston brakes are pretty much the same)

you can view this view, for a different angle, on the brakes, calipers, etc.

 

Thanks for the video. Mine is going on 2yrs and I haven't done this yet.

 

IM, thanks for the instructions. We're starting to get small amounts of snow up here and since I will be occupied the next two weekends, this is the one I can switch over to my winter wheels and tires. So, no better time for some brake maintenance!!

Lube: picked up two products based on research. For the guide pins, I picked up a tube of Super Lube. I was tempted by Sil-Glyde, but then noted it has only a small percentage of silicone, whereas SuperLube has a very high percentage and no compounds that will harm rubber. For the pads, got a small tube of Permatex Ultra Slick Synthetic Brake lube, good up to 2800 degree F. They were about $7 each.

So, got driver rear and front done tonight, and will finish the other two in the morning.

Need some advice though. Front inside brake pad seems to have chunks missing on the edge of one of the grooves...see pics. I cleaned and re-installed but not sure if this is going to be an issue. Rotor surface seemed fine. What do you make of this? What would cause, and is it problem to drive with it like that?

 

Need some advice though. Front inside brake pad seems to have chunks missing on the edge of one of the grooves...see pics. I cleaned and re-installed but not sure if this is going to be an issue. Rotor surface seemed fine. What do you make of this? What would cause, and is it problem to drive with it like that?

yikes... looks like either faulty pads, or excessive heat build-up due to driving style.

it also depends on how many miles you have. if you have 30-50k on the pads, then this isn't too bad. if these are under 20k i'd address the issue first with driving style.
some people ride their brakes because they tailgate, thus constantly tapping their brakes. that builds up heat quickly and constantly.
some people "late brake". thats great on the track, but horrible for stock brakes. thats when people dont use their brakes until the very last second; thus having to press the brake pedal and exert a lot more stress, causing excessive heat build-up, and then to make things worse.... the car stops moving(which reduces the cooling).

 

Well, did my passenger side this morning and pads were fine. Going to leave as is for now and keep an eye on it. Plan on pulling everything apart in the spring again.

 

I just changed my front pads this past week. You can rotate the caliper on the top bolt and it stays up and out of the way. (Google is a wonderful thing).

My rotors were fine so I didn't get new ones. Total cost $40.00. Dealer quote $282.00. I didn't lube the caliper pins though.

 

I just changed my front pads this past week. You can rotate the caliper on the top bolt and it stays up and out of the way. (Google is a wonderful thing).

yes you can, but in not all applications. sometimes the caliper wont swing out of the way far enough to extract one of the pads.
furthermore, this method wont allow you to extract one of the slider pins.

I didn't lube the caliper pins though.

thats because you used that method you googled. you didnt remove both bolts.

YOU MUST CHECK BOTH SLIDER PINS (by moving them in & out) AT THE VERY LEAST EVERY 6 MONTHS. YOU SHOULD BE LUBING THEM AS WELL.

 

Is the video not available anymore?

 

sorry about that. my channel was going through an update. i re-uploaded it.

dont forget:
Buy Caliper Tool:

Buy Caliper Grease:

 

Hey IM, any plans for the full brake job video?

 

that depends on 2 things:
as soon as mother nature decides to warm-up.
the condition of the front brakes.
-no reason to replace things unnecessarily.

i believe her front pads should be due this spring. even if her rotors don't need to be changed, i will go through the process on video, for everyone. :wink:

 

Excellent, thanks.

When I take out my pads to clean and lube, I was thinking of pulling my rotors off and painting the hats with hi-heat flat black paint (VHT - rated at 2000 deg) so i don't see ugly rust with my after-market wheels.

My concern is getting the rotors off without damaging them because I suspect there will be rust between the hub and rotor hat. Also, I am hoping the alignment screws are not seized in there. Any ideas/recommendations on how to get them off safely? I have seen some vids where they put two screws in the alignment holes to create pressure. Others have used a screw and nut combo using the caliper mounting holes to put pressure on the backside of the rotor to loosen it up.

Also, ever heard of Metal Rescue? Lots of good reviews on it taking off rust. I was thinking of soaking my rotors before painting. Else, rust will just pop through in a matter of months.

 

When I take out my pads to clean and lube, I was thinking of pulling my rotors off and painting the hats with hi-heat flat black paint (VHT - rated at 2000 deg) so i don't see ugly rust with my after-market wheels.

i hate to say it, but that paint wont last very long. some people have had good luck, and some dont. i personally cant seem to get more than a year or two out of any paint on the calipers/rotors. its probably due to the constant heat-cycles brakes go through.

My concern is getting the rotors off without damaging them because I suspect there will be rust between the hub and rotor hat.

here is a trick: use something with a softer surface than the metal. you can use a rubber mallet, or if you need something more solid, a 2x4 banged with a mallet works great. the wood is softer, thus it wont damage the rotor.

Also, I am hoping the alignment screws are not seized in there. Any ideas/recommendations on how to get them off safely? I have seen some vids where they put two screws in the alignment holes to create pressure. Others have used a screw and nut combo using the caliper mounting holes to put pressure on the backside of the rotor to loosen it up.

those are not alignment screws. some gently secure the rotor onto the hub during assembly, while some also help with removal by allowing you to screw in a longer bolt than the one you removed. you dont need them, at all. only honda/acura really uses them. most other makes/models dont use them. i am surprised hyundai went this route. your lugnuts secure the rotor onto the hub.

you can use a few methods to remove stuck screws:
1. heat & penetrating oil.
2. hand held impact tool:

or this one:

3. drill those silly screws out completely, and then cut/grind them.
4. impact gun, and hope you dont strip them.
5. a combo of all of the solutions i listed.

these stupid screws cause more problems than they solve.

Also, ever heard of Metal Rescue? Lots of good reviews on it taking off rust. I was thinking of soaking my rotors before painting. Else, rust will just pop through in a matter of months.

i'd stay away from that. you might coat the rotor with this stuff, and it might contaminate your brake pads. dont fix what isnt broken lol

braking equipment will almost always rust, unless its coated with a high-temp powder coat from the factory. even then, brake dust will rust, and cover up the pretty paint job - and often eat away a the paint job. thats why i simply dont care. i care more about making sure the fluid is clean, the pads are good, and the rotors are straight.

ps: i had this setup on my racebike

 

I pretty much use anti seize on anything on the lower half of the car. If you take off the rotors, swap the hubs and the inner parts of the rotor. Do the same to the parts of the wheels that contact the rotor hat. Since I've been doing this the winter wheels fall right off the hub when swapping, despite all the rust. Best $15 you can spend. I do this with a lot of bolts and screws I know I'll need to mess with in a year or two.

 

there are many types of specific anti-seize out there, and you could use different greases as your rendition of anti-seize; but i use this as my grease of choice around the brake area. its rubber & plastic safe.

it comes with a small brush, and its very-thick at room temp. this stuff does not run at all, on its own. it has a working temp range up to 600F, and its viscosity at 212F is about 40weight. plus just in case it does fling off, its safe in the brake area.

if you are getting closer into the engine compartment area, or near exhausts, or are coating things that are fully metal, you can use something like this:
this can work in temps up to 1600F!!

note:

After reading up on some specs for off-road use only Brembo, Alcon and AP Racing calipers, i noticed a common thread across all three:

• Temperatures should be kept below 356°F (use of brake ducts)
• Calipers can intermittently withstand up to 392°F without much, if any, damage, although it's recommended to replace the seals on a frequent basis.
• Calipers that see constant, or even reach 464°F may experience seal failure and possibly fluid leakage. Seals and fluid changes are highly recommended.

 

checked my front pads today (46,000 aggressive driving miles). both sides looked like this:

 

Don't look too worn, but almost too shiny! I find the oem brake pads don't bite enough, hence them lasting forever. I plan on going aftermarket when mine are fairly worn. I've already 'warped' my discs (this is a highly debated topic) and get pretty noticeable feedback when braking. I gear down and never ride the brake, so I'm leaning towards relatively poor oem brake parts. Pads are +90%, so no waste changing rotors and pads right now, braking performance hasn't changed.


I pretty much use that permatex silver on everything. Yes it's pricy, but a little dab will do ya! I love when winter wheels just fall off when changing them. A lot better than pounding them off with a mallet!

 

Don't look too worn, but almost too shiny! I find the oem brake pads don't bite enough, hence them lasting forever. I plan on going aftermarket when mine are fairly worn. I've already 'warped' my discs (this is a highly debated topic) and get pretty noticeable feedback when braking. I gear down and never ride the brake, so I'm leaning towards relatively poor oem brake parts.

idk man, she drives the car hard - and the pads work and last! i like the OEM pads, but i certainly dont buy oem brake parts. there is no reason to pay the extra money. for the same money you can buy ebc, etc.

ps: whats easier to change, clutches/clutch-packs/tranny fluid or brake pads & rotors? now you see why u dont gear down on daily commutes? lol >

 

Good info folks!

On the Metal Resue, contacted the company. Not like traditional rust removers. This leaves no residue unless you go nuts and leave the items submerged for days. The liquid only attacks the rust and does zippo to the metal, and rinses off with water.

I hear you on the painting...I did my Subaru outback and the rotors lasted about 1 year (didn't use right paint tho). My calipers, using duplicolor black caliper paint, were almost perfect when i sold it 4 years later.

Anyway, haven't decided if going to do painting thing yet...might be more work than it's worth.

On the anti-seize, any diff between the copper and the silver? I have the Permatex copper and use it on the hub hole to prevent rust. Works great. Never thought of using it between the back of the wheel and face of the rotor hat though. No worries about the stuff slinging or running off onto the brake surface?

 

work than it's worth.

On the anti-seize, any diff between the copper and the silver? I have the Permatex copper and use it on the hub hole to prevent rust. Works great. Never thought of using it between the back of the wheel and face of the rotor hat though. No worries about the stuff slinging or running off onto the brake surface?

Not sure on the difference, I only had one option at the shop. The stuff is pretty viscous and I only put it on the mating faces, it paints on thick so I've never noticed any 'sling' off.

 

Thanks a lot! Thank was really informative & well made! Keep up the great work! Looking forward to your next one.

 

This past weekend, took brakes apart and off vehicle and painted both calipers and rotor hats. Long process, and will post in LWB forum.

Also took opportunity to clean everything up and re-lube, including removing caliper pins, cleaning everything out and re-lubing.

Well, found one of my pins on each front caliper not completely seized, but very stiff. Long story short, turns out that when I serviced my brakes in the fall, I added a bit of lube to pins. I used Super Lube after reading about good properties, being silicone and not affecting rubber. Well, it turns out that it does, at least on certain rubbers.

Upon further research I found that manufacturers use different compounds for these rubber bushings. And, I also found that Super Lube is not compatible with all types. What rubber they use on on our Hyundais, I don't know, but the Super Lube made the bushing swell, thus restricting movement.

More reading, and there is alot of controversy on what lubes do what to which rubber compounds. This is further complicated by the fact that it is hard to know what compounds are used on which vehicles. For example, it seems Toyota uses a lithium soap based grease for their pins for this reasons.

Even Permatex claims their products (eg, green or purple slick or ultra) will not harm rubber, but many claim they do infact swell rubber. It would seem that the most common preferred lube for caliper pins is Sil Glyde, which I have not been able to find here.

Moral of the story, your best bet might be to buy your grease directly from the dealer if not sure, hoping, they are using Hyundai spec'd grease. I say "hoping" because one dealer in town wanted to sell me the Permatex. Whereas my dealer gave me a special clear grease they claim is spec'd for our vehicles (dealer was nice enough to give me a about a tablespoon in a bag when I had to buy two new bushings).

Might be helpful to get of sense of what works, what doesn't with our vehicles if people who have serviced their pins with grease (and checked their free movement - at least of the one pin with a rubber bushing on the front caliper assembly) to post results (when lubed, when checked and which lube you used).

 

i have used this on nissans, hyundai's and never an issue. this is the same stuff almost every mechanic uses:

this one tub, is good enough for life.

 

I like my Brembos on the Gen Coupe. Easy to disassemble and no grease needed at all.

 

thats because there's a piston on both sides. but you should still lube the pad backs, so they dont seize to the piston

 

I saw the CRC in one of your previous posts but it doesn't seem to be available locally here, amazon.ca says not available, and amazon.com doesn't ship it to Canada. Probably could find it with a bit more digging and calling, but did not have the time for this round....I just needed to get my car back together, so thankful that the parts manager at my dealer gave me some grease at no charge. Also thankful that the bushings were in stock and came in the next day, or my car would still be on jack stands!!