Hello and welcome to the forum.

If the fault is affecting all the other doors then I think a faulty master switch will be the most likely cause.

The power supply & ground to the master switch must be OK or the windows wouldn't be able to down. Likewise, the wiring between the master switch and each door must be OK, so that only leaves the master switch itself.

Scott.

 

+1 to the master switch. Master and individual switches are just paralleled.

 

Would it make sense though that only 1 window was at issue initially, but now all windows are not responding up? I guess I will pull the master switch and see how it reads. I assume what you both are saying then is the switches in the master switch block are bad correct?

 

I assume what you both are saying then is the switches in the master switch block are bad correct?

Correct!

 

Had any 'water incursion events' over there, by chance?

 

none that I know of. I will check it out this weekend and report back next week.

 

Try opening and closing the door slowly while holding the switch. Sometimes wires in vehicles harness going through the door hinged area has frayed breaking the connection. I could be interment and the flexing may reveal it as the cause. PS I just had a look at mine and there is very little movement in this design of the boot so its less likely to be the cause.

 

Indeed - the 'service loop' they employ is a good one, so odds are stronger that it's the switch assy instead of the harness .. at least the OP no doubt hopes so!

 

I have similar problem (2012 Limited), but only affects front passenger. Does not go 'down' from driver switch (only up), but passenger switch works fine.

I do recall a rainy day that driver side got pretty wet...

Is this warranty covered, or cheap easy fix?

 

Is this warranty covered, or cheap easy fix?

Yes, I'm sure that would be covered by the warranty.

 

Don't remind them about the rain, and get it covered under the 5/60K. Dealing with door panels is a pain, even when you're experienced.

 

Dealing with door panels is a pain, even when you're experienced.

from dealing with speaker upgrades and sound deadening, Ive removed the door panels many times so would not be too difficult for me. I do have some MLV in place that could make it more difficult for the tech doing the repair, almost afraid to let them mess with it.

Is it a cheap part and simple swap of the switch? If not, might just have to set up appointment under warranty.

 

Cheap depends upon (of course) the source. It's the kind of thing I'd snag at a junkyard if I were in your position.

As for dealer sources, it's an entire assy - $140 for the whole thing (with switches for locks, mirror control, etc.) from one of the online dealer parts outfits.
935702B120BS

 

Well it wasn't too bad disassembling the door. I pulled the switch assembly, removed the circuit board assembly from it, and cleaned it with electronics cleaner. Working fine now. Don't know how long of a fix this is, time will tell. Thanks for the help.

 

Thanks for the help.

Your welcome and thanks for posting in with an update. Maybe crackinhedz should give that a try too.

Scott.

 

What was the cleaner? How did you apply? Take any pics?

 

Unfortunately no pics. Disassembly of everything is pretty obvious once you get the "push pin" clips loosened that hold the door cover to the door. Two partially broke during disassembly, but they seem to be holding fine so far once everything was put back together. there were 4 screws holding the door panel to the door frame, don't recall how many push pins. I removed the switch from the door panel - think there were 5 screws holding it into the door, and the lock out button cover needed to be pulled off for it to come out of door. I then disassembled the switch - 3 more screws and a number tabs in the plastic to release the circuit board from the switch housing. I had to pick up trim tools from harbor freight, so I bought a can of I believe CRC electronics cleaner there. I was worried about the cleaner distorting or discoloring the plastic, that's why I removed the board from the housing and the housing from the door. I sprayed the cleaner under the switches on the circuit board, and into the switch through the two actuating tabs. I then cycled switches a dozen times or more, and probably repeated this at least 3 times for each switch. Then plugged the switch back into connector of door wiring and tested it prior to "declaring" victory and reassembling everything. Total time of actual work, maybe 1.5 hours not including the trip to harbor freight. The trim tools (blue reinforced plastic) were a big help, I was trying with a heaving plastic putty knife and getting no where.

 

Thanks Wardm6. I had the issue on 2 windows. one wouldn't go down at all and one you could hear it trying but no go. Down fine. No up. Followed your instructions and once I had the board out, sprayed some non-flammable electrical contact cleaner into the little white switches, worked them a few times, and voila! they work again. Thanks for your help.

Mine is a 2010 Elantra, 2 screws, one behind the interior pull handle and one in the pocket where you pull the door shut. The rest were clips. I started by removing the screws, then the upper tweeter speaker, then started prying on the lower right corner of the panel with the appropriate interior pry tool (Napa Auto parts). worked my way around the bottom all the way to the left and then upwards towards the upper left. Then pulled the entire panel upward. Had to play a bit with the crome handle but all was good. Disconnected the electrical connections, and followed the rest of your instructions.

Thanks again!!!!

 

So nothing like bringing up an old thread. Problem is different now. Seems none of the door switches work except for the driver 4 button switch. Still a driver door switch problem? I can't believe all the other switches failed at relatively the same time...

 

I can't believe all the other switches failed at relatively the same time...

They didn't. The master failed and that's way they don't work. You need to look at the wiring diagram and you'll see how the master can work and not any single switch.

 

There's a window lock button on the driver's door switch. Make sure the lock is off or none of the passenger switches will work. They also won't work if the lock button (switch) is faulty.

 

Interesting - Didn't think of that. Again the wiring diagram ought to help in diagnosing where the issue is. I've also got a '14 Sonata - I think I have a pdf somewhere of the service manual for that. Might be the same ???

 

Maybe I should just get another switch assembly ... But it bugs me with the current situation. I will have the door apart this weekend for a broken inner door handle - so I'd like the ammo to diagnose the switch while I have the door apart.

 

You shouldn't really need a diagram to test the switch. All you need is a short link wire (a paper clip perhaps).

Remove the switch assembly from the door panel and connect it to the harness. Use the wire link to bridge the two terminals as shown below.
Just push the link wire into the connector cavities along with the wires of the harness. Your using the link to bypass the window lock switch.

With the link in place, switch the ignition on and test the front passenger door window switch. If it now works that confirms the lock switch is faulty.
You can either try cleaning your driver's door switch with contact cleaner spray, or just replace the switch.

Terminal 10 - BLACK, 12 - PINK
(wire colours on European models)

 

here you go

 

Thanks!!!

 

As already posted you need to do tests to see if there is power etc where it should be and switches with selections.

Odds are more likely its a wiring failure more than the switch cluster itself. If you're in the salt belt corrosion rains supreme in affecting things.

 

Odds are more likely its a wiring failure more than the switch cluster itself.

FWIW, I'm of the exact opposite opinion. There would need to be a lot of wiring failures to prevent all the passenger windows from working.
And corrosion isn't generally an issue on the inside of the car, where the window wiring is....unless your car was manufactured by the Volkswagen group :laugh:

 

It depends!!! On a lot, especially if wiring is run through the side rocker panels of the door jam and/or under the floor matt. Then YES I have seen corrosion breaks in these cases.

If the OP is planning on doing the repair himself then pull the switch assemble enough to test the harness contacts for 12V where it should be and under load (switch pushed as it will drop in a corroded connection) then he'd know its not the wiring.

PS You don't have salt their!! Scotch don't corrode anything just cause brain misfire codes !!!! LOL

 

On a lot, especially if wiring is run through the side rocker panels of the door jam and/or under the floor matt. Then YES I have seen corrosion breaks in these cases

Yeah me too. I've seen it once on a Hyundai in the last 30 years. I wouldn't exactly describe it as a common fault.
I've seen a lot more Hyundai window switch failures over the years, and read about even more on the various forums here.

Scotch don't corrode anything just cause brain misfire codes !!!! LOL

I never touch the stuff.....hiccup!

 

Ill put money on a bad switch in some fashion as I've already had it apart once and cleaned it (3 years ago) and things went back to normal. This time is just a different failure I believe of the same switch cluster

 

If the driver's door is opened in the rain often enough, water will drip onto the arm rest and seep around the switches. Corrosion in the switch(es) would seem to be the likely culprit.
.

 

Well I don't think its the driver switch now. Did AUTOSPARKS test - still no working windows anywhere else with the door switches and then ohm'd out all the connections through the driver door switch while individually closing switches and it seems the driver door switch is operating correctly. Did some playing with the local door switches and found the driver side rear will go down but not up - all the others don't work in either direction (used the driver switch to lower them for testing up). I guess I get to tear into the other doors now. On a semi-good note, have an inner door handle again - but somehow the lock button is pretty hard to rotate now with the new handle. I must have screwed up something there - so I'll get to tear into that one again too. Ugh.

 

Well I don't think its the driver switch now.

I still think it is

Did some playing with the local door switches and found the driver side rear will go down but not up - all the others don't work in either direction

Was this with the wire link inserted between terminals 10 & 12? If so that seems to confirm that the problem is within the driver's door switch. Just not the window lock button which was my original suspicion.

To confirm, try moving the link to bridge terminals 10 & 13 to see if the driver's rear will now go down but not up. If it does that's further confirmation that the fault is inside the driver's door switch.

 

In many vehicles with power windows etc. The main harness from the driver door passes through a cluster in a rubber boot!!! This into the firewall area. Those wire can fray and bread or open up from the mere action of open and closing the one door that NEVER RESTS !!!

Move the door open and closed while holding a button and see if there is a relation. Odds are you'll need the surgically open the boot to effect repairs. It can happen to any make/model as above nothing new and very common with age.