Anyone know what weight oil our turbos are coming from the factory; 5W30 or 5w40? Planning on during an oil change in the next week or so (1200 miles) and was wondering since the vehicle has not consumed any oil here in the heat of Florida (90+).

What does your oil fill cap and owners manual say?

 

Anyone know what weight oil our turbos are coming from the factory; 5W30 or 5w40? Planning on during an oil change in the next week or so (1200 miles) and was wondering since the vehicle has not consumed any oil here in the heat of Florida (90+).

The owners manual says, i read it last night...

 

The manual may recommend 5w-30 but there was a tsb released in Canada specifying 5w-40 for the turbo. After break in, I plan to run Mobil 1 0w-40 or Penzoil Platinum 5w-40. It is common knowledge that these turbo DI engines shear a 40wt down to 30 wt pretty quickly.

 

Ok, the tsb was for Canada, you are in Denver, and the OP is in FL. You all do as you please. It is also common knowledge that Hyundai is tough on warranty claims for those who don't follow their policies.

 

factory oil

5w30 for US cars in normal weather.

 

I changed the oil since I am making a long trip this weekend. It came out like running water so I guess it is a thin 5W30. Filled it up with Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40. So far so good after 30 miles driving this morning. Quiet and no loss in performance that I have noticed. Will do a UOA after its run to see where it is at.

 

Anyone know why the Sonata Turbo and Optima Turbo specify 5w-30 or 5w-40 in their manual but the Santa Fe manual says 5w-30? 30 weight oil in a turbo is not great.

 

30 weight oil in a turbo is not great.

I realise that North America is unfamiliar with turbo engines on non-performance cars but there's huge experience in the Rest of the World where diesel is king and turbo-ing a diesel is necessary to get the power output up to gasoline levels. Oil has a much harder time in a turbo-diesel with much higher compresssion ratios than turbo-gasoline engines.

Hyundai have been building turbo-diesels for decades so a turbo-gasoline engine is straight-forward even if unfamiliar to it's customers.

5W-30 works fine in modern engines, provided the grade is correctly specified - the biggest problem that RoW owners have with their R-series diesels using 5W-30 is that some dealers wrongly use 5W-40 !!!

My confidence is such that I'm switching to 0W-30 to improve oil circulation during start-up when most wear occurs.

 

says who? 5w-30 works fine. Nothing wrong with 5w-30. I have run it on all my Turbo cars and they have run great. I get hot summers and super cold winters. I think going to Synthetic is a good thing to do once you have gone through your first oil change.

 

The Majority of they guys who have their oil analyzed show that in a turbo DI engine, a 30 weight synthetic shears to 20 weight really quickly which 20 weight is not acceptable. Similarly, 40 weight synthetic shears to 30 weight quickly which the end viscosity is acceptable. I am also planning on using a good commonly available synthetic like Pennzoil Euro 5w-40. Mobile 1 5w30 is not an option to me as it is barely a synthetic (Group 3 instead of 4) and thus is not on the approved oil list for BMW and Audi 2.0T DI engines (Mobil 1 0w40 is a true synthetic.) I use to run 5w-30 in my Subaru STI and had no problems with it. However DI is really hard on oil and thus why I don't find it acceptable.

 

Why would direct injection be "hard" on oil? All you are doing is vaporizing/atomizing the fuel more efficiently and thus burning more efficiently and getting the same power out of burning less fuel and having less unburnt fuel go out the tailpipe. No reason why better fuel burning efficiency should be hard on oil.

 

Direct injection (and turbo's) produce more blow by which causes fuel dilution in the oil (which is really bad). Some oils maintain their intended specs better than others with this fuel dilution.

 

I used Motul 5w-30 synthetic for my Audi twin turbo...would do it again.

D

 

If I were wanting to keep my 10 yr. 100k warranty, I'd put in what the owners manual and oil fill cap states.... But that's just me.

They'll never replace your worn turbo if you don't use the specified weight of oil.

 

RT, there is an observation I might add to the European technical approach to this subject, which is, they appear to give more credit to the advances in lubricating oil properties.

Example: we have owned an MB E-320 Diesel since 2006. Oil and filter change as specified in the Maintenance Booklet is at 13,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. We've usually been in the 11-12K miles at the 12 month point.

 

I've done a bunch of research on BITOG on this and I even posted a recent new thread asking this very question. Consensus is that 5w30 is what we should use for warranty purposes since it's what's on the oil cap. Most recommended synthetic, so I've already purchased Mobil 1 in the 5 gallon jug at Walmart for $25 along with 10 Hyundai OEM oil filters off eBay.

I do believe that Mobil 0w40 would be better in theory due to cold starts and higher weight to better protect a turbocharged engine, but they probably don't require it because it's usually harder to find and often more expensive. I just don't want any issues with warranty by deviating from what they require. Beyond warranty, I might switch to 0w40 and double the size of the turbo .

 

Email from Hyundai Auto Canada

Hyundai Auto Canada recommends that either 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil be used in the vehicles equipped with the 2.0 turbo engine. For general vehicle use any of the listed oils in the manual (5W-20) will perform correctly in the vehicle specified. However for increased purification protection and increased fuel economy the usage of 5W-30 grade engine oil in the 2.0L turbocharged engine is highly recommended.

Hyundai’s oil filter part number is 26300-35503. Unfortunately, we are not in a position to make any other recommendation. We recommend use of the oil filter provided by Hyundai Auto Canada. Should you choose to use another type of oil filter if a failure arises the warranty on the vehicle may be affected.

 

I really take issue with using 5w20 even though Hyundai Canada says this. If you look in the manual, 5w20 is only mentioned on the back cover but NOT inside the manual where it talks about viscosities and grades of oil to use. Folks on BITOG were vehemently opposed to using 5w20 because the turbo puts more strain on components plus heavier weight oils will handle fuel dilution better given we have direct injection.

Definitely agree to using OEM filters...from what I've researched, OEM Hyundai filters are very good and will avoid questions about warranty work.

Here's the thread I started on BITOG:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2829770#Post2829770

 

OK- even though this thread is starting to get a bit "warm," I'll chime in.

1. I agree with those who cite BITOG as a source of oil knowledge, particularly as it pertains to UOAs (a Used Oil Analysis, the ONLY way to know anything about what a given oil is doing in a given engine). Yes, there are fanatics on BITOG, but it's been my experience on the Internet that this particular species tends to crop up on every forum. I particularly recommend Motor Oil University on BITOG. Sure cleared up some of my misconceptions about oil. There are people on BITOG including tribologists (lubrication chemists who have worked on this stuff) who have forgotten more about motor oil than everyone combined on this forum will ever know.

2. A lot of talk about oil performance in the SAAB 9-5 in this thread. We have driven SAABs for 40 years, and are currently toward the end of the life cycle on what will be our last SAAB, an '04 9-5 wagon (for those of you who don't know, SAAB is closed down, no more being made), which explains why I'm haunting forums of cars likely to replace it. Most of the information given in this thread is correct, as far as it goes. The PCV system was upgraded and the sludge problem went away, but cautious SAAB owners still follow an OCI of no more than 5K, and (if they're smart) use nothing but Mobil 1 0W-40. This not only avoids the sludge monster from appearing, but is also about the best thing for the turbo. We are currently showing 137K on our SAAB and it's running great and using very little oil.

3. I completely concur with everyone in this thread who has stated that the only smart course during the warranty is to run only the oil(s) recommended in the owner's manual. And I cannot understand any argument that is based on a few dollars difference in a bottle of oil. Any money saved on oil will be wiped out pretty quickly in the event of having to replace a turbocharger or an engine.

 

Can anyone tell me/us what's wrong with using the manufacture's (Hyundai) recommended oil at the intervals they recommend?

Can you cite any instances where this has been a problem, and what that problem is/was?
John
eta: For 7 years now, I've been taking my Hyundais back to the dealer for oil changes. I don't even know what oil they use (I doubt it's synthetic). Costs me about $25 for oil, filter, tire pressure and fluid checks. Sometimes they wash the car.

 

this probably makes no difference to the conversation but I ran 5w-30 mobil 1 syn. in my mazda speed 2.0 turbo for 5 years. oil changes every 7K and never had one issue with the oil or car running poorly. granted I did have issues witht the turbo but those were wastegate related. Other than that the car ran better at 250,000Kms of driving than it did when I had the dealer change the oil the first time. It was the last time I got the oil changed by the dealer. Needless to say your car will still work fine and you should not have any issues as long as you drive the car normally and not drag race or start and drive right away. You should start the engine for about 30 secs before driving off so that the oil can circulate. just my side of the story.

 

As thick as the Owner's Manual is, it's ridiculous they don't expand on the oil change portion of the maintenance section other than to recommend taking it to a Hyundai dealership. Ridiculous.

I'm going to do my own oil change and put in Mobil 1 synthetic. I prefer to use the OEM filters as I recall on the Hyundai Tech site that there was some issue if they weren't used. What that issue is, I don't recall and trying to get on the site just now was futile (guessing a lot of forum members are accessing it to get the ECM update info for the whacky fuel gage update).

Anywhohow, I, since I can't get the info in my Owner's Manual, want to ask the following- if there are other forum members out there that have the answers, please (thanking you in advance) forward the info on in a reply post.

1- OEM Filter- saw the ones on e-bay- 10/pk Hyundai PN - 26300-35503. Is this the correct one? I have a 2.0T.

2- As I haven't had a chance yet to look under the vehicle yet, where might the oil filter location be, right or left side and more towards front or rear?

Wanting to use a hydraulic lift jack, not the scissor type that came with the vehicle, so is there a central point anyone recommends?

Would appreciate the info everyone, thanks much.

 

As thick as the Owner's Manual is, it's ridiculous they don't expand on the oil change portion of the maintenance section other than to recommend taking it to a Hyundai dealership. Ridiculous.

Actually there's a lot more info in the manual. Along with the oil change intervals, there's info on viscosity, volume, and oil specifications. See pages 8-6 to 8-8.
John

Here's an electronic version: http://www.missdraper.org/2013Santa_FeDMA/2013SANTA_FE_(DMA)_FINAL.pdf

 

Thank you grandpaswagon. Appreciate the information very much.

 

Performed my 1st oil change and found oil pan leaking. Watch out for residue on cover.

 

had the same leak on my sonata! Just got it fixed.

 

If you look on www.hmaservice.com under the 2.0T GDI engine for the 2013 SF, they actually say you can use all different types of viscosities/weights depending on outside temp: 5w30, 5w40, 10w30, 15w40, 20w50. See the attached jpeg.

 

If you look on www.hmaservice.com under the 2.0T GDI engine for the 2013 SF, they actually say you can use all different types of viscosities/weights depending on outside temp: 5w30, 5w40, 10w30, 15w40, 20w50. See the attached jpeg.

Couldn't edit the post, but made the jpeg scroll up a little so you can see that Hyundai's recommended viscosity is still 5w30 even with additional options.

 

I'm debating between using Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 or German Castrol 0W-30.

The GC is closer to 40W but for warranty purposes at least is listed as a 30w.

 

Make that Rotella T5....

From SHELL, today:

Thank you for your recent inquiry and supporting Shell products,

In response to your inquiry, although other current late model Hyundai, turbo equipped vehicles, specify SAE 5W-30/5W-40, we do not recommend Shell ROTELLA T6 5W-40 for the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T. Hyundai Motors USA and Shell Oil, recommend either SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 only. Conversely, you are free to use SAE 10W-30 Shell ROTELLA T5 synthetic blend. Other recommended oils are Quaker State Advanced Durability or Quaker State Ultimate Durability, in 5W30 or 10W30.

ED
SHELL Oil


From HyundaiUSA:

...using a 5W-40 weight oil in the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T could void the factory warranty should any engine or emissions problem occur during the warranty period. Hyundai USA strongly recommends the use of recommended viscosity oils found in your owners manual...


SH*T !!

 

From HyundaiUSA:

...using a 5W-40 weight oil in the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T could void the factory warranty should any engine or emissions problem occur during the warranty period. Hyundai USA strongly recommends the use of recommended viscosity oils found in your owners manual...

SH*T !!

What a surprise.
John

 

I guess that's why 5W-20 or 5W-30 is recommended.

 

Only 5w30 and 10w30 are recommended, not 5w20.

 

When finished with this interval, i think i too will just use QSUD (synthetic). The pitfalls and nuances of the "OEM recommendations" just arent worth the effort when looking for a niche oil that caters to your overall driving dynamics, especially where warranty is a concern. QSUD will be a great catch all.*

... or even QSGB @ between 3-4k