I have used Peak for many years. I think you will be ok.

 

You want to stick to the same chemical type EG HOAT, OAT for example mixing certain combinations can be a problem and depends on quantity I am sure.

As you haven't given the full details of which SF you have and engine etc otherwise contact your dealer. The owners manual pretty much indicates this information for those who BOTHER TO READ IT.

 

Tripplec, thanks for your response. I am sorry, but I thought I had put the make/model in my tag on the left-hand side. It is an '09 SF LTD, with the 3.3L engine. Having looked through the user manual, I must have overlooked what you state. I wanted to make sure that the coolant was acceptable.

To date, I put in about 1L on the road trip. As an update, I put in about 0.5 L on 1July, to bring reservoir up to "F" line. Checked level on 2July, and the level had dropped. Put in about another 0.5 L to "F" line. I have not put anymore in, as the level has not dropped. Now the questions become even more curious. Is it leaking? If so, how slow? If slow, why did the dealer not notice an empty, and/or, low level when it was serviced 8 days prior? Did they check on their multipoint check? Is the leak fast, over that 8 day period, but "fix" itself? Was the cooling system low to begin with? All questions I don't expect any of you to answer, but, if you care to put in 2 cents, I am all ears. These are questions for the dealer. I suspect I will have a flush and fill, and an inspection to make certain there are no leaks, as I will be heading off on a second, long road trip through the Arizona desert, in about three weeks.

Thanks for all of your support, folks.

 

the amount you added is NOT significant. But always better to use the same antifreeze base chemistry as what is in there already. I don't know what chemistry is stated on the jug. I'll look in my own manual in a bit. However, I had seen in my other vehicle the OEM new rad cap was defective and it leaked around the cap seal causing a low reservoir condition ( to the low mark anyway). Its been stable with little change but some lose may be attributed to evaporation etc and I would not get worked up about changing the fluid if is looks clear (not rusty or cloudy). Changing it right before a trip can create its own problems. Air pockets, fast level drop when and if it burps on the long drive etc. I'd leave it alone personally. You system is cooling and the reservoir is a reserve and overflow buffer in reality. These engines are regulating at around 190F so they're very unlike to boil since it would have to go beyond 230F depending on the concentration of the coolant mix.

As for the why upon inspection. LOL Well attention to detail can vary greatly. You pay for it but doesn't mean anymore the a quick scan for a problem is done. Under the hood check are easy for an owner whereas when on the hoist they can check for other issues far more easily.

My 25 cents ....

 

If you have any suspicions at all about leaking, and your mileage indicates a drain and flush anyway, be sure to have them pressure test the system while cold and hot before cutting you loose on an AZ trip.

 

Tripplec, again, you are a bevy of information. True, I had thought about evaporation loss (we were in 100+ degree F temperatures), and I realize the reservoir is just that, overflow relief. Thanks for the vote of confidence to leave it alone.

You are correct, regarding the attention (or lack thereof) to detail. It is funny how they do find things that might need attention (my dealing with the rack-and-pinion, back in Oct. and then the replacement in May). I would have expect them to say something. Just glad that I was a bit paranoid with the power steering fluid going out on me again. I would never had noticed, nor would I have taken a proactive stance. You are correct. I see where the volume of the cooling system is 7 L and only adding 1 L is pretty small. Looks like the reservoir is about 0.5 L, as that is what I had initially put in.

 

canderson, thanks for your input. Not only is it AZ, but NV, too. Didn't want people to get the impression I am a degenerate gambler. Although, going to CA when there was a question about my coolant might have been a gamble. One I lost to the wife, when I said we might have to take her car. That was shot down very quickly. I know why, too. Messy kids and a lot of junk to haul around.

 

Ok, my 08 SF as per the sig below is identical to yours.

My owners manual (Ref Chapter 9, Page 4) Chart indicates. " Ethylene Glycol Base for Aluminum Radiator". Odd they'd specify the rad type since what other metal would they use. Certainly not copper! LOL

Anyway with that said its not any of the newer Organic bases.

The thing about draining using the drain plug if a plastic **** as a lot are. They often don't reseal without leak (due to debris and or failing O-ring when turned). Its safer to disconnect the lower rad hose and reseal it if doing a change. But again I would not do that before a trip since monitoring is required. Someone who does it every day knows what they have to do to address air pockets and burping this engine. Getting done the first time. A quality synthetic oil in your engine if the millage warrants is the best pre trip move you can make along with a good filter done right with the 0-rings and crush washer underneath. If you don't do your own change then bring your own 5L jug of oil and have the dealer do it. But i'd watch to be certain they mechanic actually use it and not forget and by habit fill from their barrel and keeping the jug for themselves. You might laugh but its an easy mistake to make and the oil jockey is rarely a licensed mechanic.

 

My owners manual (Ref Chapter 9, Page 4) Chart indicates. " Ethylene Glycol Base for Aluminum Radiator". Odd they'd specify the rad type since what other metal would they use. Certainly not copper! LOL

They used to be brass in the 1980's and 1990's - although I think the old-school green antifreeze that worked for brass was also okay for aluminum and was definitely ethylene glycol ...

 

Not like it's been all that cool in ABQ, either! Looks like you're in for an extended period of 100F. Not that it's been a heck of a lot cooler up here, either...
Just put a 2nd coat of epoxy on the garage floor, and had to wait until the wee hours of the morning to do it so that the stuff wouldn't start to set up before I could get it on the floor!

 

Not sure on the Sante Fe, but on the Accent, Hyundai is pretty vague about the coolant requirements.

The OEM is good for 10-years or 120K miles and then you are supposed to replace it every 30K miles or 24 months.

The OM says to replace it with Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze - which would really be anything except Sierra or similar - which is propylene glycol.

However, the old-school green which is standard Ethylene glycol and good for 30K miles or 24 months would never last for 10-years, so that can't be the original fill.

Personally, I plan to use Zerex Asian Blue if I need to add fluid and would stay away from DexRon - (2-EHA) - Super Tech Anti Freeze | Cooling System Fluids & Additives | Bob Is The Oil Guy which Peak probably has.

Unfortunately, I looks like you can't get Zerex Asian Blue full-strength, so I would have to either use Motorcraft special dark green or maybe buy actual Hyundai anti-freeze.

 

Yeah fine but this is published in a 2008 owners manual. Clearly they have long migrated past using that material.

I guess for these the Prestone universal coolant would be fine since its not OAT based which could be a problem if mixed.

 

Not really - Prestone universal is essentially Dex-Cool without the color and licensing - it contains 2-EHA.

BITOG had a good discussion, but essentially there are 4 kinds of antifreeze:

What are the Different Types of Antifreeze and Can I Mix Them? (easiest read)

Hoat Coolant, Green & OAT Antifreeze - Advice / ELF

Which Antifreeze is Right for Your Vehicle? | Chilton's Blog for Automotive Repair Information Online

Top it Up with Green? Or Orange? Which Antifreeze? - Column - Car Reviews - Car and Driver

• IAT - old school green - this is really designed for brass radiators. It should NOT be used in Hyundai's, even though it is EG based and meets the typical replacement interval.

• OAT - typically 2-EHA, typically Dexcool - usually orange, but Prestone all-makes, all-models green falls into this as well. Generally does not play nice with other brands.

• HOAT - with silicates - typically G-05 yellow - mainly for European cars, but some older Fords used it also.

• HOAT - with phosphates - typically Japanese cars - can be either red (Toyota) or blue or dark green (Mazda/Honda).

You wouldn't want to use IAT in a Hyundai, but pretty much anything else would work, but you don't want to mix it. I.e. if you do a full drain and flush and fill with Dex-Cool and only use Dex-Cool, that is probably fine, but I wouldn't recommend that.


The original fill is good for 10-years, so we know it can't be IAT, and has to be either OAT, or one of the HOAT - from color and geography, it seems most likely to be HOAT Asian with phosphates, but ...

 

Ouch, I did not know Prestone was Dex cool. That is usually clearly marked as a different product. I agree not to use it.

 

Yep - I found out the hard way.

It's a bit suspicious to me - Prestone sells a DexCool which is orange, but they also sell "All Makes, All Models, All Colors" which is yellow, but if you look at the back label, it lists 2-EHA which is the "bad" stuff in Dexcool.

Essentially, it's DexCool, but they didn't pay for the license for that formulation, so they can't call it that.

 

Grrr - reading through the PM article, it isn't as simple as I suspected.

What is Hyundai's coolant??? | Cooling System Fluids & Additives | Bob Is The Oil Guy - this implies you should use the traditional IAT old-school green - which matches the replacement interval.

Korean antifreeze typically contains silicates, so it is the same as European Blue, but not the same as phosphated Japanese Blue or Red (so not Asian), so the best antifreeze to use is probably the gold G-05 or the old-school green.

On third thought, I'll probably use this: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Hyundai-Fluid-00232-19010-Coolant/dp/B008CLJC62 - it also has a bittering agent so animals are less likely to drink it.

 

And the question now becomes, is my Peak antifreeze OK to use? I know what was stated reus49. Is the original coolant red, and now I have added green? Are they both green? Flush and fill (Tripplec, I also know what you have stated.) canderson, you are correct, we're hitting the triple-digits in Q, also, but it's a dry heat. Just looking for the best protection for my vehicle. I enjoy this vehicle, but do not wish to compromise its workability. Again, thanks to all.

 

I leave Tiger-Heli to answer that.

I have no idea what might be in the PEAK formulation and no stores close by even if its the same jug you bought. Given the quantity I'd say yes. You are not going to harm anything by running it longer either. If its that hot you are not likely want to do a change in this heat either. LOL

PS you don't have enough miles to worry about doing that fluid change either.

 

Really hard to answer that ...

Hyundai is pretty vague on what antifreeze is recommended.

Peak is pretty vague on what it contains. BITOG said it doesn't list 2-EHA, but some people said it had it in there and didn't list it.

On my 2002 Focus, I added some Prestone AMM which contains 2-EHA and then swapped it out, and didn't have any catastrophic problems from it.

Personally, I don't the 1.0 L of added Peak hurt anything, but I would probably buy genuine Hyundai fluid and use that from here one, but I'm not a true expert on it either - just read a LOT on the web about it.