[Oldschoolnoe]

I tried, the relay has a bracket that faces us. It has 2 nuts to the side (where the passenger lower dash is). Also couln't disconnect the connector to it because of the space constraint. Here's what the "relay" looks like More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY1486

 

[Oldschoolnoe]

Here's the wiring diagram I'm working with. That fuse (circled in red) is pulling 70 milliamps. If I pull any of the other 3 fuses (circled in purple) no change in milliamp draw. We can logically conclude that the engine control relay is defective.

 

[Oldschoolnoe]

Let's start over, I was all over the place with fuse labeling. 2003 Hyundai Sonata 16v, battery discharges to under 12.6 volts overnight. Performed a parasitic draw test. Fuse 23 (Power Fuse-2 [30A]) is drawing 30 milliamps. Fusible link (IGN SW-1 [30A]) is drawing 70mA. What is the IGN SW-1 fusible link protecting?

It is not protecting the ignition switch. IGN SW-2 protects the ignition switch (See picture 2). Removing IGN SW-2 (With IGN SW-1 still connected) has no effect on current draw.
What is the IGN SW-1 fusible link protecting?

 

[Oldschoolnoe]

What kind of battery do you have. 12.6 volts is a full charge. 16 is bad. You have a bad cell or two.

The owner took it to a mechanic, was advised to get a new battery. New battery = no change
same mechanic advised to get a new alternator = no change
same mechanic replaces new alternator with another new alternator = no change.
i started testing it after all that happened, new battery had 12.11 volts the morning I tested. Of course the car did not start, it just "clacked" like a machine gun.

Charged the battery for a few hours and tested for parasitic draw (that was 3 days ago). The car's been sitting for the past 3 days (with the problematic fusible link removed.) tested it 5 minutes ago, is at 13.12 volts and starts right up (after inserting the fusible link, of course). Now if I leave that fusible link in there overnight, tomorrow that multimeter volt reading will be nearing 12.6 or even lower.

Here's my next action: I found a better wiring diagram on AllData, this one shows that IGN-SW1 AND IGN-SW2 protect the ignition switch. To narrow things down I'll pull Fuse 18 and Fuse 19 in the passenger compartment, along with the "start relay" (See most recent picture). If there's still a draw we can conclude that the ignition switch is bad....because it will be the only thing left.

 

[Oldschoolnoe]

SOLVED! 100 mA of draw is O.K. Got it down to 30mA . While fixing the issue I stumbled across the main issue, all documented in this vid!