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P0134 Code

5.9K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  Avatar 7  
#1 ·
Hello Everyone,
Does anyone know what I need to check after the OBD2 scanner gave me a P0134 Code. (Bank 1/ Sensor 1)
O2Sensor Circuit/No activity detected.
The MIL hasn’t come on and I can’t seem to notice any change in gas consumption or power loss
Thanks so much
 
#3 ·
My mate left for the U.K. and gave me his KonnweiKW310 Code Scanner. I was just inquisitive and I read the manual which said not to delete any error codes, even before I had driven the car with the thing plugged into the OBD2 port, I put it onto “Error Codes” and I know squat but I’m guessing that perhaps it accessed that code for the vehicle ÉCU. It has a “Live Data” function so I drove with that on and no other codes came up but i recorded the trip(still knowing nothing about why😳) and loads of stuff came up like 02 stuff,RPM’s, but the most confusing wasFLTRM BANK 1 SENSOR 1(%) 99,2. Fueltrim for Sensor 2 was like -2,4 or 5,4 and it varied as I scrolled through the timeframe of the 10 minute trip.
You obviously understand all this. I’m a Dumbass but would love to know if I’ve caused a problem or if that high figure means anything . Sorry to waste your time and thanks for responding 😊
 
#6 ·
Hey carguy55, Yep you’re totally correct. To answer your question: Since yesterday the car has begun stalling after low, rough idle at traffic lights or stopped but idling. But only after a few miles of driving. Once you’re cruising(hot or cold) no problems. Power, economy: All ok. No white smoke. But just get to a red light or sometimes even a roundabout and she may stall. So when stopped and idling I give a bit of throttle to keep her from stalling. Ok, so don’t get mad at me ☺ but I whipped out the OBD2 again and it had an interesting reading: P0171 (Pending) System too lean (Bank 1). It also said: ÉCU shows no stored faults. Don’t leave me now please mate😅. I have already ordered a book to learn more. What shall do and what the heck does “Pending” mean
 
#5 ·
Avatar 7

I notice that - on July 30 - you asked about your car's P0134 (and P0171) fault codes.

ROUGH IDLING AND STALLING

A GOOGLE-search using hyundai i10 p0134 as the search-term will retrieve plenty of on-line advice/information. However, the chances are slim that you'll be able to do much about this problem on a DIY basis.

In your previous enquiry you said

...I refuse to take her to Hyundai coz here in South Africa they are a bunch of liars and damp expensive.
And pretty stupid too...


but if you want the idling/stalling issue resolved, realistically your car will need professional attention. If you don't like Hyundai agencies, find a competent non-Hyundai garage.
 
#8 ·
I just wanted to update you on the Error Codes(P0134 & P0171) on my 2009 i10.
I ended up taking her to a reputable workshop chain and at this stage the fuel consumption had increased dramatically and there was a puff of black smoke at every pull off. Also stalling at idle 98% of the time. Exhaust smelling like Martian surface on a bad day. Strong sulphur stench. Also, strange but perhaps helpful: Turn Aircon on and the Revs jump to 1500 from almost stall but always at idle. So, my point. The Head Mechanic(Honest, Friendly) had the car for the day and diagnosed it($180 here) and received the same codes except the 171 was Pending. He suggested I take her to an Auto Electrician as the wiring harnesses seemed dodgy. A lot of brittle wires and cracked harnesses, around the throttle body side. So…here I am wondering what exactly to tell the bloke and the worst is that some days are suddenly worse than others. Yesterday she hardly seemed faulty, day before..jerking,bucking,and also the soot in the tailpipe is so thick that it remains on my finger for days 😂 when I check.Apparently that’s super over rich mixture and the mechanic said the STFT is crazy(25,3,0,0,0,20)The printout looks like a 300BPM Heartbeat. Then it stabilises for about 10 seconds and goes crazy. Any ideas? Will an Auto Elec be able to cure it through a wiring issue? Thank You and apologies for the novel…😳🙏🏻
 
#9 ·
the soot in the tailpipe is so thick that it remains on my finger for days...Apparently that’s super over rich mixture...Any ideas?
Yes, that certainly sounds like the mixture is rich. But you have a trouble code logged saying the mixture is lean. It kinda sounds to me like there is a problem with the O2 sensor signals.

When the O2 sensor signal is telling the engine ECU that the mixture is too lean (P0171) the ECU will inject extra fuel into the cylinders to try and compensate for the lean condition. But in your case it sounds like maybe the O2 sensor signal is incorrect. The mixture isn't lean but the O2 sensor signal is incorrectly telling the ECU that it is. The ECU will respond to the incorrect signal by injecting the extra fuel, causing the mixture to be super over rich.

What I suggest you do is start the engine and let it warm up, then take a look at the two O2 sensor signal voltages on the scan tool data list (B1S1 & B1S2). Normally what you will see is B1S1 voltage fluctuating between roughly 0.1 and 0.9V, and B1S2 will be a steady voltage at something like 0.8V. My guess is the B1S1 voltage on your engine is fixed at a low voltage. The voltage isn't fluctuating, hence the No Activity trouble code that is being logged. And a low O2 voltage is telling the ECU the mixture is lean. If the mixture is actually lean you should have a fixed low voltage on B1S2 as well. But what I suspect you will find on your engine is the B1S2 voltage will be much higher than the B1S1 voltage. Meaning one of the sensor signals is incorrect. And given the other indicators you've mentioned that suggest the mixture is rich (soot & smell), it seems more likely to be the B1S1 that is the incorrect signal.
 
#12 ·
Wow, 2 responses in an hour. Thanks so much. The answe to your question may be very relevant as around the time the issues began, an attempt was made to steal the car and the Security that Patrol the area basically came around the corner while the thieves were attempting to Hotwire the car. She was parked at my friends place on a street incline and they took off but left her in neutral and she rolled back about 40/50 metres into an Oak Tree. Newtons Law will tell you exactly how damage occurred from rear to front as the vehicle stopped dead and the motor basically continued on its journey backwards, breaking 2 engine mountings and the tailpipe suddenly was hardly visible anymore. The pipe had taken a direct hit and I was more concerned with the crumpled plastic fender and the broken tailight cluster. It’s 2:30 am here now so in the morning I will jack her up and take a look, being aware that a crack or leak may not be immediately visible. The force was so great that the entire dash moved against the steering wheel. Thank you for that. Now I’m thinking exhaust manifold leak and hoping not the CC …pleeeze…as the car first climbed the sidewalk before the 100 year old Oak Tree said: Stop right there! I’ll update you and Thanks once more Johns2.OT 🙏🏻
 
#17 ·
That sensor I would guess is bad. If it isn't then the ECU is. Assuming the connections are secure and OK. I would reseat the ECU and O2 connectors. Wouldn't hurt to spray some cleaner lube on it.

It should be cycling not ramping up. Normal range would be ~05v-.800v lean to rich or so and cycling at least two three times per second. The goal it's trying to attain is .450v.
 
#18 ·
That sensor I would guess is bad. If it isn't then the ECU is. Assuming the connections are secure and OK. I would reseat the ECU and O2 connectors. Wouldn't hurt to spray some cleaner lube on it.

It should be cycling not ramping up. Normal range would be ~05v-.800v lean to rich or so and cycling at least two three times per second. The goal it's trying to attain is .450v.
Thank You RR, Your advice always makes sense and tomorrow is Saturday! No work, just gonna do what you suggested. Now I have motivation once more instead of opening the hood and staring with a sense of dread. I’ll let you know the results. I thought the erratic spikes and dips seemed abnormal. 🙏🏻🤔