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P0038 code

28K views 31 replies 5 participants last post by  mbze430  
#1 · (Edited)
2013 Elantra GLS
80,000 miles

We got a check engine light and code P0038
Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor heater circuit

I am a little confused as to which sensor to replace.

The first picture shows the sensor closest to the engine. I think this is bank 1 sensor 1.

I am 90% sure that bank 1 sensor 2 it is the second sensor pictured.
You can see that there might be some damage to it.
If so, where do the wires go after the plug shown in picture 3?

Some replacement sensors have you splicing wires, but I really dont want to go that route.
 

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#2 ·
I am 90% sure that bank 1 sensor 2 it is the second sensor pictured.
Yes, I'm pretty sure that's it too. The connector is inside the car. Pop the rubber grommet out and you should be able to pull the connector through the hole in the floor pan. Hopefully the connector will be near enough to the hole, If not you might need to get at it from inside the car.

marty.wiggins said:
Some replacement sensors have you splicing wires, but I really dont want to go that route.
Your quite right, you really don't want to go that route.
 
#3 ·
Sensor 2 is the damaged sensor as seen in your pics,, silly place to put it, as soon as something get hit on road in right fashion, sensor damage... had 1 that ripped wires right off sensor,, took out couple fuses, and car would overheat also due to electrical fault..

Buy sensor at Hyundai and be done with it,, connector is at center console where carpet goes up under side panel on passenger side,,, just forward of seat.. peel carpet back and you'll find it
 
#4 ·
Buy sensor at Hyundai and be done with it,, connector is at center console where carpet goes up under side panel on passenger side,,, just forward of seat.. peel carpet back and you'll find it
sbr711....this?
I guess I have to remove that plastic side panel to get to the connector?

what a crappy way to place that.
 

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#7 ·
Most types that need splicing are wide band universal type of O2 sensors
I think your confused about your sensor technologies. The cheap universal sensors that often need the wires spliced are narrow band sensors, which is generally the type of sensor that is fitted downstream of the CAT, even when there's a wide band sensor upstream.
 
#13 ·
Come on,, you kids play nice,, or do I have to put you both in time out ?
 
#15 ·
I didn't start with the snide comments like autospark
But, he knows that I am relatively new to this and I'm still learning
Seems like I have learned a lot more than he has
And he is showing his resentment

Personally, I would never berate someone for knowing less or trying to learn
Rather encourage others to become more knowledgeable
So they can handle their own issues

Also, I like to view this forum as a place to have good conversations
And help each other up ... not push them under my thumb
 
#18 ·
Back to the thread.....
I changed the oxygen sensor this morning. It was much easier that I thought it would be. I had an open end wrench that fit the old sensor perfectly and the old sensor came off with out too much effort.
The sensor that I purchased from Advance Auto Parts fit perfectly and the check engine light is now off.
Thanks for the help as to where the connector was located inside the console on the passenger side.

You can see the damage and the new install in the attached pictures.

The new sensor is from Walker 250-24987.
 

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#20 ·
Back to the thread.....

The sensor that I purchased from Advance Auto Parts fit perfectly and the check engine light is now off.

Did we actually go in with scan tool and erase DTC from memory so that we dont find old DTC on a new scan to confuse things ??

Thanks for the help as to where the connector was located inside the console on the passenger side.
Worst part is peeling the carpet to get at connector

You can see the damage and the new install in the attached pictures.

The new sensor is from Walker 250-24987.
Seen a handfull with crashed OX sensor down there,, Sonata and Elantra.. you lucky the sensor come right out,, I have had them seized to start with,, or seize as it come part way out and lock up solid... Hyundai bought a few converter for OX replace in the past.. put some good antiseize on threads, and snug the sensor in place,, dont need any high power monster torque to install,, just make it worse next time you might need to remove it
 
#21 ·
sbr711

I did erase the old codes from memory with a scan tool. You are correct that peeling the carpet is the worse parts, but it went back down without too much trouble. I always worry about the little plastic screw that holds the console in place, but that went back OK as well.

I placed a little anti-seize on the threads of the new sensor and snugged it.

I hope I don't have to mess with this part again.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Update.


After 2 weeks of no issues, the car gets a CEL P2096 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System too lean.
There are several things that can cause this, including the O2 sensor.
I inspected a few things and reset the code. The car ran another 2 days and the CEL came back on for the same P2096.


Is this the O2 sensor?
The sensor is a direct fit OEM sensor made by Walker.
Why did it run with no issue for 2 weeks and now turn on the CEL?


Here are the possible fixes.
Repairing a vacuum or other hose/line leak
Replacing the catalytic converter
Replacing the fuel filter, fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator
Replacing the oxygen or mass airflow sensor
Replacing the spark plugs


Any other ideas?
 
#23 ·
VIN please...

Most of the UD/MD Elantra have recall / PCM update for Post Catalyst Lean.....