Hyundai Forums banner
41 - 60 of 87 Posts
Where would I inject the CRC GDI cleaner on my Tucson HEV...the video says not to spray on Mass airflow sensor...
On the Kia Soul it was easy to get right to the engine, disconnect the intake hose, and with the car running the flap there is opened and spray directly in. Yes, find where the Mass sensor is and be sure to be below that. Some cars you can still just spray down the hose past the sensor.
 
Where would I inject the CRC GDI cleaner on my Tucson HEV...the video says not to spray on Mass airflow sensor...
I've been looking at that on my own HEV and I think the best entry would be to remove the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor which is just downstream of the throttle body. The nozzle of the can should fit into the hole vacated by the sensor and then you would have to seal the hole somehow while spraying. (The intake will be pressurized.)You would not want to spray upstream of the intercooler because all the spray would just pool up in the intercooler. Whether or not the engine would run without the map sensor, I don't know.
 
I've been looking at that on my own HEV and I think the best entry would be to remove the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor which is just downstream of the throttle body. The nozzle of the can should fit into the hole vacated by the sensor and then you would have to seal the hole somehow while spraying. (The intake will be pressurized.)You would not want to spray upstream of the intercooler because all the spray would just pool up in the intercooler. Whether or not the engine would run without the map sensor, I don't know.
The car will (should?) run without the map sensor. It will probably be rough idle.
 
Had considered the MAP but pretty sure it might run with poor idle, too rich , or stall while
spraying, and also toss a CEL which may or may not turn off with MAP reinstalled..... .I don't a scanner to erase CEL's.
Gee I could drill a hole and plug it after...not !!
 
Actually I have seen bungs for adding a boost gauge line..could be used as an injection port then plugged. The TSB about my 1.6L SmartStream G HEV needing a steady diet of injector cleaner and addressing of GDI intake valves got me on this subject.
 
Fuel is not the problem with these. It's the quality of the part.
It's not the parts. It's the crappy gas with 10% ethanol. The old petroleum gas were stable for 6 months. The new environmentally friendly gas, cause so much pollution, because the gas is not stable. Ethanol blended gas will separate and jelly after 3-4 weeks. This is why, it is critical to use Top Tier gas with detergents and Chevron Techron to stabilize the gas, clean the fuel pump, fuel regulator, fuel injectors.

Same reason, NEVER USE STEEL OR COPPER SPARKPLUGS. Ethanol in the Gas will corrode the steel or copper and cause misfires.

Same reason, you must use Chevron Techron in your gas, it you are going on vacation or putting your car away for the winter. You must stabilize your fuel or suffer, clogged fuel pump, regulator and injectors.

IT'S THE POOR QUALITY FUEL WITH ETHANOL.

Recommend running tank full of pure petroleum gas, once a year to clear all your fuel system. You'll get 5% better gas miles because gas have more energy than ethanol.

Best Wishes.
 
Anybody know if removing or unplugging the MAP right before the TB or the one right after the TB on my " Smart Stream G" 1.6 HEV will throw a CEL...and if it does will it disappear after replacing sensor or do I need a scanner to delete ? The 2 sensors with the white labels....

 
Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
Lots of answers regarding fuel treatments BUT no one yet has commented about at what mileage did the injector issues surface??
I'm also in the same camp as the poster who said the 10% ethanol in today's gasoline is causing gumming issues......look what it does in lawn mowers, etc where folks use gasoline with ethanol in it, put the equipment away for the season and next season they don't start because the fuel system is all gummed up...

 
Anybody know if removing or unplugging the MAP right before the TB or the one right after the TB on my " Smart Stream G" 1.6 HEV will throw a CEL...and if it does will it disappear after replacing sensor or do I need a scanner to delete ? The 2 sensors with the white labels....

View attachment 491800
Unplugging, and running unplugged is lost input to PCM, you'll likely end up DTC to deal with.

Better off to leave sensor plugged in while it hang loose, pressure value be skewed, but you wont have open circuit codeds for MAP and IAT
 
Lots of answers regarding fuel treatments BUT no one yet has commented about at what mileage did the injector issues surface??
I'm also in the same camp as the poster who said the 10% ethanol in today's gasoline is causing gumming issues......look what it does in lawn mowers, etc where folks use gasoline with ethanol in it, put the equipment away for the season and next season they don't start because the fuel system is all gummed up...

Race gas, or REC fuel (ethanol free) is the way to go for power equipment.

I run 110 race gas in small stuff and 2-stroke trimmer with synthetic oil at 50-1 for many years
 
Lots of answers regarding fuel treatments BUT no one yet has commented about at what mileage did the injector issues surface??
I'm also in the same camp as the poster who said the 10% ethanol in today's gasoline is causing gumming issues......look what it does in lawn mowers, etc where folks use gasoline with ethanol in it, put the equipment away for the season and next season they don't start because the fuel system is all gummed up...

I've been running 10% gas in all of my equipment (John Deere rider, Honda push, Echo trimmer, blower, chainsaw) for more than a decade with ZERO issues starting next season, but I always add fuel stabilizer to the gas and always use top tier gas even in my lawn equipment.

Most gumming issues in lawn equipment is from using old and untreated gas.
 
Anybody know if removing or unplugging the MAP right before the TB or the one right after the TB on my " Smart Stream G" 1.6 HEV will throw a CEL...and if it does will it disappear after replacing sensor or do I need a scanner to delete ? The 2 sensors with the white labels....

View attachment 491800
The map sensor is downstream of the throttle body. The sensor attached to the TB is the boost pressure sensor.

Image
 
I've been running 10% gas in all of my equipment (John Deere rider, Honda push, Echo trimmer, blower, chainsaw) for more than a decade with ZERO issues starting next season, but I always add fuel stabilizer to the gas and always use top tier gas even in my lawn equipment.

Most gumming issues in lawn equipment is from using old and untreated gas.
As you can imagine lawn care is a huge business here. Many gas stations carry non ethanol gas and all the small (and larger) business owners line up in the morning or early evening at that pump to fill their small equipment engines.
The #1 issue for them is starting the engine after heavy use especially the next day after it cools down if not using non ethanol.
Many people do use Ethanol sometimes with little problems but there are many big name companies and other sites that say better not to.

.


 
As you can imagine lawn care is a huge business here. Many gas stations carry non ethanol gas and all the small (and larger) business owners line up in the morning or early evening at that pump to fill their small equipment engines.
The #1 issue for them is starting the engine after heavy use especially the next day after it cools down if not using non ethanol.
Many people do use Ethanol sometimes with little problems but there are many big name companies and other sites that say better not to.










The Right Fuel for Lawn Mowers and Small-Engine Equipment | Troy-Bilt | Troy-Bilt US



Avoid engine failure to your outdoor power equipment by understanding the correct fuel to use from Troy-Bilt. How-To Articles at Troy-Bilt.







www.troybilt.com




.










Gas with ethanol can make small engines fail



The Environmental Protection Agency has approved gasoline with 15 percent ethanol for use in cars year 2001 or newer, yet it prohibits its use in mowers and other power equipment, stating it may cause damage. A Department of Energy study...





www.consumerreports.org




















How to Fight Ethanol Problems in Small Engines - AMSOIL Blog



Small-engine manufacturers warn that ethanol can dissolve plastic and create harmful deposits, leading to costly repairs. Here's what you can do about it.







blog.amsoil.com
The article from Consumer Reports is more than a decade old but otherwise good info. Thanks for sharing. Apparently my STA-BIL fuel additive works. I have a 5 gallon can for use in my 4-cycle equipment and a 1 gallon for my 2-cycle equipment that I fill from the 5 gallon can. As soon as I get home from the gas station, I add STA-BIL to the can. Most of my equipment I bought in 2013 when I bought a house. 11 years on E-10 gas with STA-BIL in all the equipment, never drained for the winter, never a single starting problem. My snow blower and pressure washer sit for months between use, never a starting problem.

Two or three years ago, my neighbor had problems with his Honda mower, scared me into buying a spare carburetor for mine. It still sits on the shelf unused. When I pulled my float cover off of my Honda mower, it was clean as a whistle, no varnish, no debris, no deterioration of the plastic float, looked as new even after several years of operation.

I don’t question your referenced articles but my experience has been contrary to what they suggest.
Image
 
Lots of answers regarding fuel treatments BUT no one yet has commented about at what mileage did the injector issues surface??
I'm also in the same camp as the poster who said the 10% ethanol in today's gasoline is causing gumming issues......look what it does in lawn mowers, etc where folks use gasoline with ethanol in it, put the equipment away for the season and next season they don't start because the fuel system is all gummed up...

This is a huge problem on farm equipment. They are used in spring and fall, then sit for months.
 
I didn’t use any fuel additives like Techron, but I always filled up with top-tier gas. I’ve heard mixed opinions about whether fuel treatments help or not. Hyundai replaced the faulty injector under warranty per the TSB, and so far, no other issues.
Hyundai (since 2017-18) used Smart-Stream injectors on Direct Injection engines. These work because the injectors are designed to squirt a small amount of fuel directly on intake valve to clean away carbon build up. This technology require clean injector ports to work properly. Therefore it is important to keep injectors clean, fuel pump(s) clean and pressure regulator clean.

Best Wishes.

PS. Previous direct injection engines experienced carbon build up in intake port for two reasons.

1) The older (3 gen. ago) oils, API SM, SN had high vapor losses during NOACK Volatility test losing as much as 18% wt in 1 hour test. The oil vapor entered through the PCV and condensed in intake.

2) The early Direct Injectors did not clean the intake port with gas. Honda, Toyota, Porsche, even Ford, etc.. used dual injectors, port and direct injection. Hyundai solved this by placing strategic injector ports and spray pattern to squire fuel at the intake valve, reducing carbon build up.
 
Interesting..have never heard about that feature (injector spray partially hitting intake valve). Searched Hyundai sites without success. Can you point me towards a link that details this feature more ?

Thanks
 
Hyundai (since 2017-18) used Smart-Stream injectors on Direct Injection engines. These work because the injectors are designed to squirt a small amount of fuel directly on intake valve to clean away carbon build up. This technology require clean injector ports to work properly. Therefore it is important to keep injectors clean, fuel pump(s) clean and pressure regulator clean.

Best Wishes.

PS. Previous direct injection engines experienced carbon build up in intake port for two reasons.

1) The older (3 gen. ago) oils, API SM, SN had high vapor losses during NOACK Volatility test losing as much as 18% wt in 1 hour test. The oil vapor entered through the PCV and condensed in intake.

2) The early Direct Injectors did not clean the intake port with gas. Honda, Toyota, Porsche, even Ford, etc.. used dual injectors, port and direct injection. Hyundai solved this by placing strategic injector ports and spray pattern to squire fuel at the intake valve, reducing carbon build up.
Are you referring to the 2.5L Slipstream? That engine in the ICE Tucson is GDI/MPI so has fuel ports and direct injection. But the full GDI engines on the Hybrids does not at least that I know about?
 
41 - 60 of 87 Posts