Has anyone done a mod that will allow the fog lights to remain on when the high beams get turned on?
Fog Lights With High Beams
KSrB2000
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There's definitely a way to control it by means of the computer. On my 12 Ram, I can access it with my bullydog tuner. From the factory, I'm able to turn the fogs on as long as my parking lights are on. The bullydog allowed me to run my fogs with my high beams. This should be true for most vehicles produced after 2007. The problem is that no one is offering any sort of tuner for the Hyundai vehicles yet.
Hey, I don't know how much this will help, but contact hyundai for your region. For instance, mine would be hyundaiusa.com, and contact them through there link. They forward all complaints to the engineering teams to solve most issues. I simply stated that I was very disappointed in the drl and foglight function and that I knew the dealer would be able to adjust these parameters very easily through the gds vci.
It's worth a shot, let's see what happens when they get back with me this time
It's worth a shot, let's see what happens when they get back with me this time
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The law allows only 4 forward lights on at any time. So, you'll either have fogs+lows, or lows+highs.
I'm actually looking at the laws now, and they vary state by state. But the one I looked up in Connecticut did state that about the 4 lights. It also makes reference to 300 candle power and several other specifics. But I did notice one that said the intensity of the beam shall not strike the ground no more than 25 ft for foglights when the vehicle is unloaded. It's actually interesting on the specifics of the laws and for the most part it is very sensible.
And so by the statements made in these laws, those trucks with the Carolina strut, is illegal as **** because those lights cannot be adjusted properly, and it's gay.
And so by the statements made in these laws, those trucks with the Carolina strut, is illegal as **** because those lights cannot be adjusted properly, and it's gay.
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DOT/FMVSS and not state level
2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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It is very easy to rewire the switch so they are on anytime the switch is on and the key is in run.
If you take the shell off the steering column so you can access the MFS connectors; you should see one black wire looped to another on the connector. This is the relay on signal from the switch and it is pared to the low beams so they only come on when the low beams are on.
Simply cut the wire and ground the single wire to any convenient piece of metal behind the dash..
Here is a thread with pictures on how to do it with the Gen Coupe.
Independent Foglights (Pictures!) - Hyundai Genesis Forum
If you take the shell off the steering column so you can access the MFS connectors; you should see one black wire looped to another on the connector. This is the relay on signal from the switch and it is pared to the low beams so they only come on when the low beams are on.
Simply cut the wire and ground the single wire to any convenient piece of metal behind the dash..
Here is a thread with pictures on how to do it with the Gen Coupe.
Independent Foglights (Pictures!) - Hyundai Genesis Forum
You're in the YF Sonata forum. Maybe check the Tucson forum for fog light info.
2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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10,436 Posts
Take the shell off your steering column and look at the MFS connectors. If one has a loop that's the fog light ground.
2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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10,436 Posts
I have HIDs in the fogs on both my cars. Both are independently controlled and will come on whenever the switched with the key in fun.
Like one of the other posters said, if you splice a wire from the (+) wire going to the high beams to the (+) wire of the fog lights, then whenever one is on the other would be on, but that would work both ways. (high beams on = fog lights on. Fog lights on with low beams on=high beams will still be on). So you would have high beams on at any time the fog lights were on. Probably not good.
A diode might work--they are electrical "one way " valves--but you'd have to have one that could handle the forward and reverse current without blowing. You would insert one inline with the wire you would be adding that would connect the hot wire going to the high beams to the hot wire going to the fog lamps.
Another option would be to wire in a relay with the hot wire of the high beams: you'd need a double pole relay (so 2 separate "switches")--one switch is between 12V+ and the high beam hot wire, and the other is between 12V+ and the fog light hot wire. Then you need to run a wire from a switched power source--in this case, whatever wire is "hot" when you turn on the high beams--to the power terminal on the relay that turns the relay "on". So if I've thought this through correctly (double check me!) when you hit the high beam switch, it would 1. turn on the high beams and 2. energize the relay, which would allow power to flow to the fog lights. However, if the high beams were off, them when you turned on the fog lights, the power would not be able to carry back through your added circuit and turn the high beams on, because the relay would not be energized and so the relay contacts would be open (=switched "off").
Hope that helps!
-Andy
A diode might work--they are electrical "one way " valves--but you'd have to have one that could handle the forward and reverse current without blowing. You would insert one inline with the wire you would be adding that would connect the hot wire going to the high beams to the hot wire going to the fog lamps.
Another option would be to wire in a relay with the hot wire of the high beams: you'd need a double pole relay (so 2 separate "switches")--one switch is between 12V+ and the high beam hot wire, and the other is between 12V+ and the fog light hot wire. Then you need to run a wire from a switched power source--in this case, whatever wire is "hot" when you turn on the high beams--to the power terminal on the relay that turns the relay "on". So if I've thought this through correctly (double check me!) when you hit the high beam switch, it would 1. turn on the high beams and 2. energize the relay, which would allow power to flow to the fog lights. However, if the high beams were off, them when you turned on the fog lights, the power would not be able to carry back through your added circuit and turn the high beams on, because the relay would not be energized and so the relay contacts would be open (=switched "off").
Hope that helps!
-Andy
2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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10,436 Posts
Doing that doubles the load on the supply side wiring.
It is really ridiculously easy to ground the switch wire to make it all work with factory wiring. You need about 2' of 18 ga wire and a couple crimp connectors. In my case a 1/4 ring terminal and one butt connector.
Well that's true--not necessarily a bad thing, just have to make sure the supply side wires can handle the current. They don't have to be connected to the hot side of the high beam supply--only the relay activating contact has to go to there, and that current draw is minimal. The supply to the lights can come strait from the battery, or any other source hefty enough to handle the amps.
When I used to be on a rescue squad years ago our light bars drew 100 or more amps with all the halogen bulbs and rotators. They came prewired, with #8 gauge wires to go strait to the battery and smaller, #18 gauge wires to go to the switches for all the various light functions. The relays were all contained within the lightbar.
I'm not sure what you mean by "ground the switch wire". Tell me more? I'm glad to to learn a different way.
Thanks!
When I used to be on a rescue squad years ago our light bars drew 100 or more amps with all the halogen bulbs and rotators. They came prewired, with #8 gauge wires to go strait to the battery and smaller, #18 gauge wires to go to the switches for all the various light functions. The relays were all contained within the lightbar.
I'm not sure what you mean by "ground the switch wire". Tell me more? I'm glad to to learn a different way.
Thanks!
2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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10,436 Posts
Hyundai uses grounds for the various switches. These go to the BCM or other solid state devices which then turn on the relays. The mechanical relays are all hot (coil and power) when the key is in run, the switch grounds the relays for lo, hi or the fog lights or sends a signal to the CAN bus to switch ss relays.
Here's two Gen Coupe fog light wire diagrams. The 2010 one is using mechanical relays the 2013 is using Solid State relays.
Here's two Gen Coupe fog light wire diagrams. The 2010 one is using mechanical relays the 2013 is using Solid State relays.
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IMHO fog lights on defeats the purpose of high beams which is why they only come on with the lows. Any light you throw up close to the front of the car and the brightness of the fog lights take your eyes and focus off the far away objects your trying to see with high beams.
I actually find that many of the new LED projectors are much worse (especially in the SUV's) for me. Coming to stop signs etc with small angle/elevation changes. I don't know if it's in new drivers manuals or old ones but i recall it stating that highbeams are only to be used when there is no traffic coming in oppposite direction or vehicles in front of you. To me that is basic courtesy and common sense (uncommon these days). I've had the fogs (factory or aftermarket) come on with parking lights (and stay on with highbeam) on all my vehicles since my dad had me help him install lights on his cars 40 years ago. He replaced the sealed beam headlights (small round, large round, small rectangle and large rectangle) his cars with state of the art HALOGEN that only 2 states allowed and he picked them while travelling. They were almost twice as bright as the incandescent ones he had. He drove mostly at night in rural areas. Fogs were a necessity and to come on with parking lights only (so others could see your taillights). Extra driving lights triggered by high beams were often used but obviously would turn off with low beam.
Sometimes the lows throw too much scattered reflected light with the fog/snow. Low wide peripheral with high beam when conditions allow also helps reflecting the shine from all the animal eyes.
For all my cars and families. They MUST have CORRECT AIM as to not cast glare for oncoming drivers. Projectors definitely preferred. The cars we had that could be switched we then also bought in Europe, E-code H4 headlights where you could switch the bulb if needed not the whole light. They also had MUCH better lighting control and coverage. US DOT lighting laws are horrendous as compared to Europe.
And your hopes came true as I did fry the foglight circuit on the Sequoia trying to modify it over 12 years ago. I replaced the body ECU, added a separate harness with other relays to control as I want. I had also replaced the factory fogs with HID's (too much glare), replaced them with Hella Projector low beams (awesome). After bumper replacement from accident they stayed stock then became LED daytime running lights.
If I start to feel ambitious again and put some extra cash in the pipeline https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/universal-kits/bixenon-morimoto-matchbox-stage-3.html Small bi-xenon projectors will fit inside the housings :wink:
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