Have a 2016 Sonata with a 2.4l engine. I use full synthetic oil and usually go about 3500 miles between oil changes. I did a hard brake on the highway and the oil pressure light came on then immediately went away. I checked the oil level and didn't even read low. I was about 2000-2300 miles from my last oil change and took 2 quarts to get it to a proper level, seems very excessive. I don't notice any leaks/smoke, PCV valve still rattles and seems in good condition, not sure if that much oil consumption is acceptable and what other causes it could be, thanks.
RamsBasketball
Sounds excessive, take it to a dealer for "oil consumption monitoring", you may qualify for a "new" motor.
The exact same thing happened to me, I only noticed because I did a hard brake. The stick was bone dry.
Dealership did compression and leakdown test, not good, oil was burning most likely because of a piston ring issue and low compression.
Engine failed soon after that and I got a new engine, they wouldn't give me an engine until this one seized so be prepared for that.
Dealership did compression and leakdown test, not good, oil was burning most likely because of a piston ring issue and low compression.
Engine failed soon after that and I got a new engine, they wouldn't give me an engine until this one seized so be prepared for that.
What's your current mileage?
I have the exact same car as you, mine failed a bit after 100k KM.
I have the exact same car as you, mine failed a bit after 100k KM.
You should be checking the oil at least every 1000 miles anyway.
Letting it go below the dipstick speeds up the damage.
Toyota and some of the Euro makes say 1qt/600 miles is normal.
Letting it go below the dipstick speeds up the damage.
Toyota and some of the Euro makes say 1qt/600 miles is normal.
Some models that I'm aware of are having the same problem. Honda is the only one I know of that's not. Correct me if I'm wrong.
If you are burning more oil than you would like then try out these ideas.:
Use the oil sold for high mileage engines. (dyno)
Try another brand. My Volvo turbo loved Sunoco basic oil.
Go one or two notches thicker in oil.
Do a carbon flush out, with Seafoam.
Check to see if you can go back to dyno oil and still keep your warranty. Its cheaper.
Use the oil sold for high mileage engines. (dyno)
Try another brand. My Volvo turbo loved Sunoco basic oil.
Go one or two notches thicker in oil.
Do a carbon flush out, with Seafoam.
Check to see if you can go back to dyno oil and still keep your warranty. Its cheaper.
I searched Consumer Reports about excessive oil burning. They did a report (almost 500,000 owners) on vehicles from 2010 to 2014. Interestingly not one Hyundai was listed. They do say however that burning a quart between regular oil changes is not normal - I agree. The makes that burned excessive oil in the report is BMW, Audi, Porsche and Subaru. I'd link to the web article but I'm a paid member and am not sure it's accessible to non members. HERES the link just in case.
Clearly we have Hyundai owners complaining about oil consumption. Honda and Toyota extended the warranty on offending models - so that response is better that Hyundai.
Maybe another class action suit is needed.
Clearly we have Hyundai owners complaining about oil consumption. Honda and Toyota extended the warranty on offending models - so that response is better that Hyundai.
Maybe another class action suit is needed.
Excessive oil consumption is a commonly complained about issue over here 2011 Hyundai Sonata Engine problems
it may discuss about excessive oil consumption endlessly. 
We purchase korean cars because they are relatively chip. Spare parts are also chip. So what about simple engine repair?
your engine G4KJ requires.
-new cylinder cartridges;
-new pistons;
-new rings;
-valve sealing rings;
-perhaps timing chain and its tensioner require replacement (it has nothing to do with oil consumption, however must be changed if it has any signs of wear.);
- also oil pump must be checked.
entrust this to a guy whose hands are growing from a correct place and you will put oil consumption in tolerance or you will get rid of that at all for the next 60k miles.
P.S. a root reason of a quick wear of cylinder/piston boundle might be collapsing catalytic converter. If it is the case, it must be replaced as well.
We purchase korean cars because they are relatively chip. Spare parts are also chip. So what about simple engine repair?
your engine G4KJ requires.
-new cylinder cartridges;
-new pistons;
-new rings;
-valve sealing rings;
-perhaps timing chain and its tensioner require replacement (it has nothing to do with oil consumption, however must be changed if it has any signs of wear.);
- also oil pump must be checked.
entrust this to a guy whose hands are growing from a correct place and you will put oil consumption in tolerance or you will get rid of that at all for the next 60k miles.
P.S. a root reason of a quick wear of cylinder/piston boundle might be collapsing catalytic converter. If it is the case, it must be replaced as well.
I very recently heard that someone who has a 2019 Sonata with only 55,000 miles on it experienced engine failure. The warranty claim on the engine was denied because this was a drivers education car. I don't know if there is more to this story or not, and I saw this on the Scotty Kilmer channel on YouTube.
BG is the real deal, i wont recommend something with out aproval from Professional technitions that use it & works pretty darn well. Prime example right here watch how it helped and breathed a little more life back into this vehicle a litle longer stuff is amazing.!. mecanicQ in my area has recently moved in around the block from me and all there products services performed are using the BG chemistry i like that.
I wonder if an old fashioned compression check would reveal anything wrong with the rings and valve guides. If a problem shows up, it would be objective evidence to beat the dealership with.
Also, any indication of oil in the coolant? This would show evidence of a head gasket failure.
I would also stand behind the car and have a friend cold start the car. The catalytic converter will eat up a lot of blue smoke, but if the rings/valve guides/head gasket are particularly bad you'll see some blue smoke smoke after half a minute.
Good luck.
Also, any indication of oil in the coolant? This would show evidence of a head gasket failure.
I would also stand behind the car and have a friend cold start the car. The catalytic converter will eat up a lot of blue smoke, but if the rings/valve guides/head gasket are particularly bad you'll see some blue smoke smoke after half a minute.
Good luck.
John
Some of the diagnosis I've read reveal badly-sludged oil pumps that end-up moderately restricting oil flow thru the engine.
Would a product like BG EPR help with that?
BG Products Link (per Google Search)
Some of the diagnosis I've read reveal badly-sludged oil pumps that end-up moderately restricting oil flow thru the engine.
Would a product like BG EPR help with that?
BG Products Link (per Google Search)
2.4 or 2.0T all the same crap, doesn't matter which engine, they all have a propensity to seize.
The reason the pump is "sledged" up is because of the shavings when the cylinders become
out of round and wear quickly. There's a small screen in the pump housing, that becomes
clogged and away goes the Babbitt and seizure imminent.
At least that's my take, and the reason no type of maintenance will help the condition, but
just can't get my arms around why they don't all succumb to this deficient design
phenomenon.
A little historical data:
I'm a really old guy and maybe 50+ year ago, GM(Pontiac) thought they would make a quieter
V-8 engine, so the result was to coat the cam gear with plastic. Worked great for a while until
fatigue took its toll on the plastic. Pieces would break off and collect on the oil pump screen,
but once the screen was filled and oil flow blocked, a built in safety feature, a relive valve in the
middle of the screen would open, and you guessed the results, plastic would be drawn into the
engine, and as the plastic would eventually block the oil flow, it would seize..........sound familiar?
The reason the pump is "sledged" up is because of the shavings when the cylinders become
out of round and wear quickly. There's a small screen in the pump housing, that becomes
clogged and away goes the Babbitt and seizure imminent.
At least that's my take, and the reason no type of maintenance will help the condition, but
just can't get my arms around why they don't all succumb to this deficient design
phenomenon.
A little historical data:
I'm a really old guy and maybe 50+ year ago, GM(Pontiac) thought they would make a quieter
V-8 engine, so the result was to coat the cam gear with plastic. Worked great for a while until
fatigue took its toll on the plastic. Pieces would break off and collect on the oil pump screen,
but once the screen was filled and oil flow blocked, a built in safety feature, a relive valve in the
middle of the screen would open, and you guessed the results, plastic would be drawn into the
engine, and as the plastic would eventually block the oil flow, it would seize..........sound familiar?
Can the oil pump and this screen be accessed to, without a major Visa Card bill? What about removing the oil pan and cleaning the shavings debris every 75k? I heard there's little room and a PITA job.
Making more sense now-on why I'm buying thicker, top quality motor oils with the best wear protection and the highest trapping oil filters available. Helps to delay the inevitable.
Good info there turbonut.... thanks.
Making more sense now-on why I'm buying thicker, top quality motor oils with the best wear protection and the highest trapping oil filters available. Helps to delay the inevitable.
Good info there turbonut.... thanks.
Quality of oil filter won't matter as the debris will build up on the screen, and/or as above, find it's way into the engine and stop
oil circulation.
Never removed the pan, but from what I see, move a/c compressor to side and go to town, @ 1 hour.
Here's something I found:
www.autoserviceprofessional.com
oil circulation.
Never removed the pan, but from what I see, move a/c compressor to side and go to town, @ 1 hour.
Here's something I found:
Hyundai oil pump replacement
Hyundai offers guidelines regarding engine oil pump replacement during engine repair. This includes all models.
www.autoserviceprofessional.com
I have a 2019 Sport, just turned 9550 miles. My first oil change, I didn't use any oil, but the TBN, which is a measure of how much lubricating properties are remaining in the oil was at 1.5 at 4800 miles. 1 is considered no longer lubricating the engine. Oil generally starts out with TBN of 6 or greater, so I doubt that if I would have followed Hyundai' advice and waited until 7,500 miles, the oil would no longer be performing proper lubrication. I replaced that oil with Mobil1,5w20 full synthetic.
Today at 9550 miles, I changed the oil again and replaced it with Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic. I again sent a sample off to Blackstone Labs, for analysis. If the results are good, I won't do another test until I hit 20K.
My car doesn't use any oil, I drained out a full 5 quarts both at 4800 miles and today at 9550 miles. I will post the Blackstone results, when I receive them.
Today at 9550 miles, I changed the oil again and replaced it with Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic. I again sent a sample off to Blackstone Labs, for analysis. If the results are good, I won't do another test until I hit 20K.
My car doesn't use any oil, I drained out a full 5 quarts both at 4800 miles and today at 9550 miles. I will post the Blackstone results, when I receive them.
TBN of 1 is super low; I would not recommend taking it that low. TBN of 2.5-3 is about as low as you want before changing the oil.
I use Amsoil SS and TBN starts at 12.5 and I run it about 10k miles and my TBN ends up around 3 when I change the oil. GDI engines are very harsh on oil and generate lots of heat. If using dino oil I would be on severe service of 3,750 miles; use full syn and 7,500 miles is perfectly fine (use a quality oil filter).
Also I only use Oil Analyzers now (link below) as they are far more accurate than Blackstone and use actual calibrated equipment and ASTM standards. You can buy the kits for ~$30 (includes TBN) which is less than the $40 Blackstone charges.
Oil Analysis & Oil Testing Services - Oil Analyzers, INC.
Oil Analyzers, INC. offers complete oil analysis and oil testing services for automotive, fleet and industrial applications.
www.oaitesting.com
Oil Analyzers Test Kit, UPS Pre-Paid
Shop Oil Analyzers Test Kit, UPS Pre-Paid at AMSOIL. Find premium synthetic oil, filters and more online. Fast, free shipping available.
Jeremy
I've used Blackstone and Wix Analysis prior. Thanks for the link to Oil Analyzers. I'll try them next .... probably April 2021.
At first, I'm doing a Virgin Analysis.
It's for the Hyundai 2.4GDI. I'm doing a 50-50 blend of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L 5w30.
My engine drops flashpoint like a boat anchor and it shears 30w oils to 20w in 3.3k. Trying this blend to beef the UOA results next time.
Member Molakule on another board mentioned last week that the only way to test these Analysis is to have both the Virgin and the Used Analysis, to compare side-by-side.
This will be the first time I've done both (before & after).
I've used Blackstone and Wix Analysis prior. Thanks for the link to Oil Analyzers. I'll try them next .... probably April 2021.
At first, I'm doing a Virgin Analysis.
It's for the Hyundai 2.4GDI. I'm doing a 50-50 blend of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L 5w30.
My engine drops flashpoint like a boat anchor and it shears 30w oils to 20w in 3.3k. Trying this blend to beef the UOA results next time.
Member Molakule on another board mentioned last week that the only way to test these Analysis is to have both the Virgin and the Used Analysis, to compare side-by-side.
This will be the first time I've done both (before & after).
Agree on the Amsoil Signature Series oil. But I would never run the Sig-oil longer than any manufacturer's guidelines., either during the warranty period or beyond.
Jeremy
You will become my first Follow member here. I'm interested in reading what's ahead in the next few years, for you and your (I think) 2017 Sonata.
Jeremy
You will become my first Follow member here. I'm interested in reading what's ahead in the next few years, for you and your (I think) 2017 Sonata.
🤥
Why does everyone make a big deal out of the type of oil/filter to use in these, or any vehicle, when it won't make a difference one way or another?
Anyone ever hear of engine failure due to the type of oil being used, as long as it's within the manufacturer's recommendation?
I certainly haven't and have no idea as to how many engine I've had apart/rebuilt.
I've said it before, if the engine is going to go, no matter what type of oil/filter and/or maintenance that one does, it will not stop these
engines from deteriorating, so save your money.
Why does everyone make a big deal out of the type of oil/filter to use in these, or any vehicle, when it won't make a difference one way or another?
Anyone ever hear of engine failure due to the type of oil being used, as long as it's within the manufacturer's recommendation?
I certainly haven't and have no idea as to how many engine I've had apart/rebuilt.
I've said it before, if the engine is going to go, no matter what type of oil/filter and/or maintenance that one does, it will not stop these
engines from deteriorating, so save your money.
I am a big believer in full syn oil and think it should be the only oil allowed in cars today. I would NEVER want to put dino oil in today's high heat GDI engine and especially one with a turbo. Sludging any engine is always a concern. Of course if you never plan on keeping a car past 60k miles then who cares lol.
I'm using synth oil in my GDI engine, but not pricey boutique stuff.
SuperTech 5W-30 meets the spec and gets the job done.
Also at the next change I plan to use an over-size Wix filter.
SuperTech 5W-30 meets the spec and gets the job done.
Also at the next change I plan to use an over-size Wix filter.
I think if you top the oil off constantly, then the engine would not seize, but I guess at some point it burns so much oil that you will never catch up. Our 2013 Sonata has had Mobil1 synthetic and Hyundai oil filter all its life, 3.5K OCI and now at 114K miles goes through 1 qt every 600-800 miles, so going in for the test next oil change.
I am looking at the PDF file from Kia above and get worried. I have a Veloster 1.6 Turbo with the Gamma engine. Is that one next?
Also, shopping for a Tucson. I was particularly looking for the ones with 2.0 Nu engine, but seems like even those are problematic. Anyone car to elaborate.
I am looking at the PDF file from Kia above and get worried. I have a Veloster 1.6 Turbo with the Gamma engine. Is that one next?
Also, shopping for a Tucson. I was particularly looking for the ones with 2.0 Nu engine, but seems like even those are problematic. Anyone car to elaborate.
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