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Excessive Oil Consumption

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50K views 96 replies 25 participants last post by  13van51  
#1 ·
Have a 2016 Sonata with a 2.4l engine. I use full synthetic oil and usually go about 3500 miles between oil changes. I did a hard brake on the highway and the oil pressure light came on then immediately went away. I checked the oil level and didn't even read low. I was about 2000-2300 miles from my last oil change and took 2 quarts to get it to a proper level, seems very excessive. I don't notice any leaks/smoke, PCV valve still rattles and seems in good condition, not sure if that much oil consumption is acceptable and what other causes it could be, thanks.
 
#3 ·
The exact same thing happened to me, I only noticed because I did a hard brake. The stick was bone dry.
Dealership did compression and leakdown test, not good, oil was burning most likely because of a piston ring issue and low compression.
Engine failed soon after that and I got a new engine, they wouldn't give me an engine until this one seized so be prepared for that.
 
#5 ·
Mileage is only 54,000, I called the dealership earlier and they said 1qt/1000 miles is "Normal", so I came on here because that seems very excessive and sounds like it is unfortunately. Luckily I have the warranty and will probably monitor the next 1000 miles and see if I am still losing a ton of oil and then will probably go with the consumption test if it's still the case.
 
#18 ·
If you are burning more oil than you would like then try out these ideas.:
Use the oil sold for high mileage engines. (dyno)
Try another brand. My Volvo turbo loved Sunoco basic oil.
Go one or two notches thicker in oil.
Do a carbon flush out, with Seafoam.
Check to see if you can go back to dyno oil and still keep your warranty. Its cheaper.
 
#19 · (Edited)
None of that is going to help, and sorry to say the companies Kia/Hyundai are
taking a hard stance on oil consumption. In the last week the dealerships and
Kia have said they wouldn't replace engines using a qt p/300 miles as that
was not part of the settlement. The settlement was for a "debris" issue that
caused engines to seize, or alert knock sensor detection, neither one,
no engine replacement.

My '11 2.0T, ran great, but oil consumption (qt p/320 miles) and was replaced
12/2019, looks like they've changed their stance on oil consumption, so guess
one must get the engine to seize. Great for customer satisfaction.
 
#30 ·
I searched Consumer Reports about excessive oil burning. They did a report (almost 500,000 owners) on vehicles from 2010 to 2014. Interestingly not one Hyundai was listed. They do say however that burning a quart between regular oil changes is not normal - I agree. The makes that burned excessive oil in the report is BMW, Audi, Porsche and Subaru. I'd link to the web article but I'm a paid member and am not sure it's accessible to non members. HERES the link just in case.

Clearly we have Hyundai owners complaining about oil consumption. Honda and Toyota extended the warranty on offending models - so that response is better that Hyundai.

Maybe another class action suit is needed.
 
#37 · (Edited)
it may discuss about excessive oil consumption endlessly. :)
We purchase korean cars because they are relatively chip. Spare parts are also chip. So what about simple engine repair?
your engine G4KJ requires.
-new cylinder cartridges;
-new pistons;
-new rings;
-valve sealing rings;
-perhaps timing chain and its tensioner require replacement (it has nothing to do with oil consumption, however must be changed if it has any signs of wear.);
- also oil pump must be checked.


entrust this to a guy whose hands are growing from a correct place and you will put oil consumption in tolerance or you will get rid of that at all for the next 60k miles.

P.S. a root reason of a quick wear of cylinder/piston boundle might be collapsing catalytic converter. If it is the case, it must be replaced as well.
 
#51 ·
BG is the real deal, i wont recommend something with out aproval from Professional technitions that use it & works pretty darn well. Prime example right here watch how it helped and breathed a little more life back into this vehicle a litle longer stuff is amazing.!. mecanicQ in my area has recently moved in around the block from me and all there products services performed are using the BG chemistry i like that. (y)
 
#52 ·
I wonder if an old fashioned compression check would reveal anything wrong with the rings and valve guides. If a problem shows up, it would be objective evidence to beat the dealership with.

Also, any indication of oil in the coolant? This would show evidence of a head gasket failure.

I would also stand behind the car and have a friend cold start the car. The catalytic converter will eat up a lot of blue smoke, but if the rings/valve guides/head gasket are particularly bad you'll see some blue smoke smoke after half a minute.

Good luck.
 
#65 · (Edited)
2.4 or 2.0T all the same crap, doesn't matter which engine, they all have a propensity to seize.
The reason the pump is "sledged" up is because of the shavings when the cylinders become
out of round and wear quickly. There's a small screen in the pump housing, that becomes
clogged and away goes the Babbitt and seizure imminent.

At least that's my take, and the reason no type of maintenance will help the condition, but
just can't get my arms around why they don't all succumb to this deficient design
phenomenon.

A little historical data:
I'm a really old guy and maybe 50+ year ago, GM(Pontiac) thought they would make a quieter
V-8 engine, so the result was to coat the cam gear with plastic. Worked great for a while until
fatigue took its toll on the plastic. Pieces would break off and collect on the oil pump screen,
but once the screen was filled and oil flow blocked, a built in safety feature, a relive valve in the
middle of the screen would open, and you guessed the results, plastic would be drawn into the
engine, and as the plastic would eventually block the oil flow, it would seize..........sound familiar?
 
#66 · (Edited)
Can the oil pump and this screen be accessed to, without a major Visa Card bill? What about removing the oil pan and cleaning the shavings debris every 75k? I heard there's little room and a PITA job.

Making more sense now-on why I'm buying thicker, top quality motor oils with the best wear protection and the highest trapping oil filters available. Helps to delay the inevitable.
Good info there turbonut.... thanks.
 
#67 ·
What about removing the oil pan and cleaning the shavings debris every 75k?
If you're getting shavings then nothing will save the engine.

Making more sense now-on why I'm buying thicker, top quality motor oils with the best wear protection and the highest trapping oil filters available.
Thicker oil will not save you. By the time the debris reaches the oil filter it's already been through the engine.

I'd rather wait til the engine self destructs, then get a new one.
 
#68 ·
Quality of oil filter won't matter as the debris will build up on the screen, and/or as above, find it's way into the engine and stop
oil circulation.

Never removed the pan, but from what I see, move a/c compressor to side and go to town, @ 1 hour.

Here's something I found:
 
#70 ·
I have a 2019 Sport, just turned 9550 miles. My first oil change, I didn't use any oil, but the TBN, which is a measure of how much lubricating properties are remaining in the oil was at 1.5 at 4800 miles. 1 is considered no longer lubricating the engine. Oil generally starts out with TBN of 6 or greater, so I doubt that if I would have followed Hyundai' advice and waited until 7,500 miles, the oil would no longer be performing proper lubrication. I replaced that oil with Mobil1,5w20 full synthetic.

Today at 9550 miles, I changed the oil again and replaced it with Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic. I again sent a sample off to Blackstone Labs, for analysis. If the results are good, I won't do another test until I hit 20K.

My car doesn't use any oil, I drained out a full 5 quarts both at 4800 miles and today at 9550 miles. I will post the Blackstone results, when I receive them.
 
#71 · (Edited)
I have a 2019 Sport, just turned 9550 miles. My first oil change, I didn't use any oil, but the TBN, which is a measure of how much lubricating properties are remaining in the oil was at 1.5 at 4800 miles. 1 is considered no longer lubricating the engine. Oil generally starts out with TBN of 6 or greater, so I doubt that if I would have followed Hyundai' advice and waited until 7,500 miles, the oil would no longer be performing proper lubrication. I replaced that oil with Mobil1,5w20 full synthetic.

Today at 9550 miles, I changed the oil again and replaced it with Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic. I again sent a sample off to Blackstone Labs, for analysis. If the results are good, I won't do another test until I hit 20K.

My car doesn't use any oil, I drained out a full 5 quarts both at 4800 miles and today at 9550 miles. I will post the Blackstone results, when I receive them.
TBN of 1 is super low; I would not recommend taking it that low. TBN of 2.5-3 is about as low as you want before changing the oil.

I use Amsoil SS and TBN starts at 12.5 and I run it about 10k miles and my TBN ends up around 3 when I change the oil. GDI engines are very harsh on oil and generate lots of heat. If using dino oil I would be on severe service of 3,750 miles; use full syn and 7,500 miles is perfectly fine (use a quality oil filter).

Also I only use Oil Analyzers now (link below) as they are far more accurate than Blackstone and use actual calibrated equipment and ASTM standards. You can buy the kits for ~$30 (includes TBN) which is less than the $40 Blackstone charges.


 
#76 · (Edited)
Jeremy
I've used Blackstone and Wix Analysis prior. Thanks for the link to Oil Analyzers. I'll try them next .... probably April 2021.
At first, I'm doing a Virgin Analysis.
It's for the Hyundai 2.4GDI. I'm doing a 50-50 blend of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L 5w30.
My engine drops flashpoint like a boat anchor and it shears 30w oils to 20w in 3.3k. Trying this blend to beef the UOA results next time.

Member Molakule on another board mentioned last week that the only way to test these Analysis is to have both the Virgin and the Used Analysis, to compare side-by-side.
This will be the first time I've done both (before & after).
 
#77 ·
You can certainly send in a virgin sample for your own records if you would like. I am not sure what data the virgin sample would give you that you wouldn't know already? It won't have silicon, iron, or any wear metals and it won't be oxidized obviously. I assume the oil manufacturer gives you the TBN of the oil in their specs or at least Amsoil does. I think Oil Analyzers is far more legit and accurate than Blackstone as I've used both.

If you haven't tried Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 with one of their Ea15K oil filters, I would recommend it for sure. I also have a 2.4L GDI and I run it 10k miles on the Amsoil SS and Ea15K filters and have had no issues with my oil analysis reports. Everyone has their own oil opinions on here and there are plenty of good full syn oils on the market. I am partial to Amsoil bc they don't try to hide any of their oil specs and they make a high quality full syn. They also make a full syn Euro oil you may be interested in as well.
 
#79 ·
Agree on the Amsoil Signature Series oil. But I would never run the Sig-oil longer than any manufacturer's guidelines., either during the warranty period or beyond.

Jeremy
You will become my first Follow member here. I'm interested in reading what's ahead in the next few years, for you and your (I think) 2017 Sonata.
 
#80 ·
🤥
Why does everyone make a big deal out of the type of oil/filter to use in these, or any vehicle, when it won't make a difference one way or another?
Anyone ever hear of engine failure due to the type of oil being used, as long as it's within the manufacturer's recommendation?
I certainly haven't and have no idea as to how many engine I've had apart/rebuilt.

I've said it before, if the engine is going to go, no matter what type of oil/filter and/or maintenance that one does, it will not stop these
engines from deteriorating, so save your money.
 
#81 · (Edited)
🤥
Why does everyone make a big deal out of the type of oil/filter to use in these, or any vehicle, when it won't make a difference one way or another?
Anyone ever hear of engine failure due to the type of oil being used, as long as it's within the manufacturer's recommendation?
I certainly haven't and have no idea as to how many engine I've had apart/rebuilt.

I've said it before, if the engine is going to go, no matter what type of oil/filter and/or maintenance that one does, it will not stop these
engines from deteriorating, so save your money.
Why do members like you keep harping on oil and filter choices of others. Nobody here is saying their choices produce a cure to the Hyundai engine demise.
I make my choices to help delay these breakdowns and failures that many are facing. I feel my choices do make a time distance-difference in the long run.

Filters offer different trapping and flowing services inside their products. Trapping debris-strength does make a difference. Oils that offer better wear protection and better cleaning power helps these troubled engines last longer. Heavier oil grades do make a difference in offering lower consumption and increased film strength on engine parts. Increasing OCIs helps deliver both cleanliness, wear strength and minimizes oil shearing.

If your past experiences didn't make a difference in how, when or why your engine failed, doesn't mean that the same M.O. applies to everyone.

I'm not debating this. I've got too much personal experience knowing my side of this agenda works. I haven't the time to try to school the straight and narrow minded that patrol these boards everyday - anyways. You keep believing what you believe and keep wasting your time doing it. You will never change my M.O. here. So please pick another member to pick your fight with. You lost this fight with me.

When seeking information here, board members with issues should only remember replies from owners that have never faced one of these engine failures. Only seek advice from those whose vehicles are not having issues.
 
#87 ·
I think if you top the oil off constantly, then the engine would not seize, but I guess at some point it burns so much oil that you will never catch up. Our 2013 Sonata has had Mobil1 synthetic and Hyundai oil filter all its life, 3.5K OCI and now at 114K miles goes through 1 qt every 600-800 miles, so going in for the test next oil change.

I am looking at the PDF file from Kia above and get worried. I have a Veloster 1.6 Turbo with the Gamma engine. Is that one next?
Also, shopping for a Tucson. I was particularly looking for the ones with 2.0 Nu engine, but seems like even those are problematic. Anyone car to elaborate.
 
#88 ·
Rethink your theory as any type of maintenance, oil, filter won't stop the engine problem, and the 1.6T is not included in the recall..
I'll repeat, daughter's 2017 Santa Fe 2.4 72,000 miles, CEL P1326 on a Saturday night last year when we were out to dinner with her and son in law.
I checked code as I had the scanner with me, checked engine oil, maybe 1/8" below full mark, so told them to take it to the stealership on
Monday. Got a call Sunday morning that the SUV stopped about 3 miles from their house, so drove to the spot, it was on a narrow country
road, no shoulder, 3 police cars in the area directing traffic around the vehicle, and what else made it great, pouring down rain. Checked
the vehicle, engine seized and they had driven the vehicle 9 miles.

If the engine is destined to go, there's no stopping it.