Is this helpful?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10145503-9999.pdf

 

appreciate the reply Twosuns, I have seen this one before and get a kick out of it as I dont see what the sealant areas would do. If only i could find a cap or whole unit for a normal price. Shame on Hyundai for making this part plus $500 dollars. That is truly robbery and shouldnt be allowed.

 

Cap Housing Kit 59201-D300X-QQH | OEM Parts Online

Cap Housing Kit 59201-D300X-QQH

www.hyundaioemparts.com

Maybe water gets in the cap, and corrodes the connections, or ruins the circuit board, it seems to cost less than $10

 

Just an update. I took it to dealer and for $100 they told me what I already told them. Vacuum pump!!!! - I waited it out and now sometimes the pedal will jump for lack of better word.

Anyways, is there no way to get vacuum from motor or is the 1.6 just too small. Yeah I know sounds weird but I just really struggle with the fact the pump is $530 dollars. It truly is a price gouge.

Anyone ever have luck getting used one from auto salvage or the like?

 

Is this a diesel? Diesels don't have manifold vacuum
The part I suggested is the most common faulure. Cheap!

 

No not a diesel. 1.6l turbo.

 

I forgot, a turbo also does not have the same vacuum as a NA engine

 

anyone aware of way to test whether it is cap or pump?

 

Read the TSB linked in post #2 it gives testing procedure.

 

Update. I was able to source a unit from a smashed 2017. Installed today and the light has not come back on thus far.

But, the weird pedal sensation is still there. Every now and then when coming to a stop it will act sort of like abs. It did this previously also (last month or so) and I thought as did dealership this vacuum pump would fix that too. Does it relearn or anything like that? Any thoughts guys?

 

But, the weird pedal sensation is still there. Every now and then when coming to a stop it will act sort of like abs.

Do you hear a groaning sound and feel a vibration through the brake pedal as your slowing to a stop?
If so that is a common symptom of ABS rotor deformation. I was just advising someone else about that a couple of days ago...
Hyundai i800 Brake Problem

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

I don't think the pump relearns anything, it may be computer controlled for a desired vacuum, but that's all I can think of

 

no groaning, but forsure an ABS type of thing. But, is there a bad connection, warped rotor, bearing.....jeepers.

 

Just disconnect the positive battery cable for a few hours then see if the problem still exists!

 

i might pull the fuse for the ABS and see if issue no longer fires...if so then i guess i know forsure it is ABS related (although i am positive, its the exact sound, feel etc) I wish i could isolate which wheel might be having issue

 

I have had something like this happen on my Ford Ranger, it was a bad wheel bearing, depending on the direction of turn, while braking the sensor would not see the tone wheel, and think the wheel was stopped.

 

yup agree.

Was just under fuse box. States that there are 2 fuses for ABS1 and ABS2...and they are under some weird cover I have not seen before.

 

yeah its a bunch of blade connections that cannot be removed as far as i can tell. See below.

 

The 40A fuses supply power to the hydraulic pump and the solenoids. I suspect the actual ABS control module will be supplied with power from the 10A ABS fuse. You could try removing that one...

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

haha, what an idiot I am. Too focused on the large ABS letters to even see this one. I have since taken the proper ABS fuse out (which turns off alot of stuff btw - electric steering, traction control, lane departure etc..) and as expected I did not have any of the prior issue with the ABS. So later I will check the wheel sensors. I put the fuse back in and all returned to normal although i now have an engine light on. I expect i have stored codes now is all. Will go off in few days or i suppose I could remove negative battery cable for an hour or so.

 

while i changed oil i disconnected negative battery terminal. When done with oil put back on and light is gone. Although **** abs issue is still occuring. I had wheels off to look at pads and rotors, some wear of course but i dont think the issue. Could not remove sensors from hub so I wasn't able to check those.

 

As I said, if the ABS is activating under light braking take a good look at the ABS tone wheels. One of them probably has a crack between two of the teeth.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

Thanks Autospark. The tone ring is actually part of the axle? Sounds expensive.

 

You can usually buy aftermarket replacement tone wheels.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

Hello,
I just had the same problem and was charged over $1,000 to have the vacuum pump replaced. I was never notified of a recall. Can anyone confirm if this service should have been free for a 2016 Tucson?
Thank you

 

Op thanks for this thread and all the responses. The dealership wanted $900+ to replace this vacuum pump in my 80k 2016 1.6T. Nahhhhhhh. Instead i swapped the pump cap referenced in this TSB 59201D300XQQH ($7+shipping) and that fixed my abs light/ intermittent parking brake light : https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10145503-9999.pdf

I also took apart the pump( there is another thread on that with photos), cleaned it, and flipped the pump vanes 180*. That did not fix the problem but the new TSB cap did.