The lengths of the axles don't seem to match??
Is it the correct one??
In the manuals, it just says that the axle comes out with using a pry bar to pull it out

I have seen the axle fall apart if it is pulled transversely as you have done.
The axle wasn't meant to handle such forces.
If you have to then try using two vise grip pliers.
One on the piece you want to pull and the other on the first vise grip pliers making an "L" shape
Tap the second pliers in the direction to release the last part of the axle

Good luck

Edit: If it is an automatic transmission then try not to pull both axles (driver's and passenger's side) out at the same time.
The transmission gears may become misaligned and then it becomes almost impossible to put the axles shafts back in.

 

Thanks for replying.
The apparent difference in length is because the rubber boot has pulled toward the end of the shaft. Yeah, when I first looked, it threw me a bit too.
As for pulling both at once, I replaced the passenger side and then started on the driver side. I don't think it ever even crossed my mind to have both halves out at the same time.
I used to think that little circle clip could not possibly be enough to hold these things together. Boy, was I wrong. I'll try the pliers and let everyone know what finally works.

 

Don't pull both CV axles at once, gears might fall inside the differential! It's a well known issue on a lot of transmissions.

As for popping "out" from the transmission end cup, that's normal even for new ones, you could even put it back together on the car. CV's are not made to be pulled from the other end.
What you need is probably a slide hammer tool:

 

Don't pull both CV axles at once, things might fall inside the differential!

BS,, how do you think we get old Hyundai trans out of car, and Re-Man trans from shipping container into vehicle ?? :wink:

 

Not all transmissions have this issue, but definitely is a real possibility. And when are worn they are more prone to that.
Safer is to have a dowel inside.

Anyway, this is not related to his issue at hand.

 

I don't think you know what you're talking about. It's not like a rear end where the spiders will fall out.

 

On other cars I have always used a 2-3ft prybar. Slow prying forces don't seem to work as well as quick impuse forces. If a prybar does not fit you may be able to wrap some heavy gauge wire just behind the fat end of the bell and make yourself a loop so you can insert a pry bar crosswise at the free end. A non-stretchy rope may also do the job. You would grab both ends of the prybar and yank the axel stub straight out. You want a quick impulse force to overcome the retaining clip. This is what a slide hammer does.

 

Maybe this can work



I've used every prybar I have; the short one between subframe and tranny from below, the long one from the wheel hub in (since the axle isn't in the way, why not?). I've beat on the prybars/screwdrivers as best I can from under a car with the realisation that a quick impact is better than a slow pry. I've turned the axle to try to get the open part of the clip in a more favorable position. Nothing.

So the slide hammer (axle pull) or wire wrap tricks sound pretty reasonable. I'll keep you posted. This should have been a 15-30 minute job.

 

5-minute solution

None of the above suggestions worked. So here's the solution I came up with. It's very simply and was quick to make, quick to use.

Cost was $3.97 and I could have used 4-6' of 1/16" steel aircraft cable instead of the 10' piece I bought. I crimped the ends with a hammer on the concrete floor. The ferrule was left loose to slide the cable tight like a noose. I could have crimped it against the side of the CV joint housing, but there was no need. A few good hard tugs with a slide hammer and it popped right out.

I hope no one ever has this hard a time of it, but here's the cliff notes just in case.

Thanks for the suggestions as it led to me devising this method.

 

That's great!
Thanks for the update

 

I'm facing the exact problem on my Amanti

Thank you for posting this. My Kia Amanti is a XG350 with a different skin.
I will follow your example and hope the lasso method works. Nothing else has.:frown:

 

Let us know if it works for you.
Very curious to see if this is the trick to use for all FWD axles.

 

When I did mine i spend hours on it, but this combination worked in less than a minute. I had yanked on the axle so the only left was the spindle "cup". Used a slide hammer with a vice grip adapter and attached them to the cup edge, two or three slides and it popped right out.

 

My '05 was clicking on the passenger side, so I decided to just replace both axles. I ran into the typical problem of the driver-side axle being hard to release from the transmission due to lack of leverage to pry against it. I've been working on it for a couple of hours. Can't find a place to use a punch against it. Can't get a full swing with a hammer against the pry bar. Rotating the axle didn't swing the clip to a place where it popped. Thought I'd just yank on the other end and hope it popped loose.
The axle came apart! Should it do that?
The old axle (the part that came out) next to the new one:
View attachment 226481

A closeup of the end that came apart, next to the new:
View attachment 226489

What's left in the car:
View attachment 226497

Close-up of the axle end still stuck in the tranny:
View attachment 226505

:surprise:
I'm totally lost here. Does anyone have any ideas that I haven't tried??

I am desperately needing help.

Weld a bolt across the CV hub.

 

I believe some Nissan FWD autos are like that.

 

You don't really believe that because you really don't know. We've done every Nissan built since the early 80's and none of them do what you claim

You really ought to stick with what you know.
Giving information you are not sure about can cause people a bunch of lost time and possibly money.
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=5798621

 

For those of you who run into this it's easy to pull by welding a bolt or rod across the face of the hub. This gives you something you can hook a chain or cable, whatever to and snap it out. Doesn't take but a couple minutes and your tranny is ready for the new axle.

 

Not many DIY's have welding equipment.

Here's a couple tools for the job:
If one has a slide hammer-$15
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...m-specialty-tools&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj66rt6Hl3QIVi1YNCh26VQ50EAQYBCABEgKd0_D_BwE

Or fork/spacer-$32
https://www.toolsid.com/oem/cv-axle....html?view=811689&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvertpKHl3QIVkODICh3d_A_-EAQYByABEgIoDfD_BwE

 

this works great. autozone will rent this out, might check some other parts places.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/OTC-Tools-Equipment-7509-Inner-CV-Joint-Puller/16481185

i liked it so much, i bought one.

 

Yes, it did work and worked well. The new axle removed the clunking and I replaced the lower control arm and wheel bearing as well. I don't want to go back under the wheel well for a long time.