Doe you see the Check Engine Light with key-on (not trying to start)?

 

Yes

 

If you're using a really inexpensive scan tool, that could be the issue with not being able to connect to the ECU--that actually happened to me a long time ago. If possible, try another scan tool.

When you said it had "no spark" did you actually test that there is no spark from the ignition coils when the engine is cranking (e.g. with spark tester)?

 

We visually test the spark plugs in the coils while cranking

 

Does the tacho flicker as you crank the engine over?

 

my hyundai accent 2009 won't start, it crank, but no spark.

It looks like your in Canada, meaning your car will have a transponder key immobiliser. When you switch the ignition, before you turn the key to START, is the immobiliser warning light illuminated. The symbol is a car with a key inside. That light should be on along with the other warning lights. If it's not on that usually means the engine ECU can't read the ignition key's transponder code, which will immobilse the engine and prevent it from starting.

 

Hi, thanks for the respond, I don't see any immobiliser warning light. But the car does the same thing when I use the remote starter, crank but no start, if it was the transponder reader, wouldn't the car start with the remote starter?

 

if it was the transponder reader, wouldn't the car start with the remote starter?

I don't know enough about your remote start to answer that. But I think the remote start would still need to transmit a transponder code to allow the engine to start. And if the engine ECU is not able to read the transponder code, regardless of whether it is coming from the key or the remote start, the engine will be immobilised.

Having said that, I missed the part in you original post about the scan tool not being able to communicate with the engine ECU. When you have a non start and no comms with the scan tool, those are often symptoms of an ECU power supply issue. And the first step in diagnosing power supply issues is to use a voltmeter to check ALL the fuses.

To check the fuses, connect the black meter probe to a good ground (battery negative), switch the ignition on, then touch the red meter probe to the two test terminals on top of each fuse. If you find a fuse that has 12V on one terminal and 0V on the other, that fuse is blown and needs to be replaced...

 

I visually checked all the fuses, but I could check again with a voltmeter

 

but I could check again with a voltmeter

Checking with a voltmeter is quite important. Because you are not only checking that none of the fuses are blown, but you also want to check that certain circuits are being supplied with power. So pay particular attention to the SNSR (sensor), INJ (injector) and any ECU fuses located on the engine bay fusebox. All those fuses should be supplied with 12V when the ignition is on because they power circuits that are critical to the operation of the engine. If you find that those fuses don't have power that is part of your problem.

 

Hi, thank you for your time, I tested all fuses as you told me I have a few that test 0, does some of them should have 12V?

 

Did you have the ignition on when testing the fuses?

In any event, the fuses you circled aren't relevant to this cranking no-start problem. In the first picture, you circled the heated mirror, tail lamp (LH & RH) and start fuses (the last one powers the control-side of the starter relay so if that was blown the engine wouldn't crank at all). In the 2nd picture, all the fuses you circled are spare fuses.

@AUTOSPARK advised you to check specific fuses in the engine compartment fuse box--did you check those?

 

Hi, yes the switch was on, and yes I checked all fuses autospark told me, any idea of something else I could try?

 

If you have voltage on one side of a fuse and 0 on the other side the fuse is no good.

 

I remplaced these to try to fix the current problem, for the tachometer, it goes to +-250rpm when I crank, and for the fuses, the ones I said was on 0V on the 2 sides

 

You said previously you have no spark while cranking the engine and confirmed this. Do you have power at the ignition coils? With ignition on, there should be battery voltage on Terminal #2 at each of the ignition coil connectors. Probe gently if checking from the front of the connectors.

 

Just to summarize where we are and correct me if anything here is wrong:

• Ignition coils have battery power, but there is no spark during engine cranking
• ECU is receiving signal from the crankshaft position sensor as RPMs register on the tachometer during cranking

It would seem the ECU is not grounding the ignition coil circuit, but just to be sure, do you have a test light? If so, connect it to battery positive and carefully probe the other terminal (Terminal #1) on one of the ignition coil connectors while cranking and see whether or not the test light flickers on/off.

If it doesn't, the fact that your scan tool can't connect to the ECU may be of some significance here. BTW, what is the manufacturer and model number of the scan tool you tried to use to connect to the ECU?

 

Yes all you said are correct. & for the test light you asked there's no light on the test light while cranking. I'll ad a picture of my scan tool

 

O.K. There are numerous complaints in the reviews on Amazon.com for this scan tool that it will not connect to MC generation Hyundai Accents. If you know someone with a different scan tool, you can try that. It would be nice to know whether a decent scan tool can communicate with the ECU since the ECU is not behaving as expected.

In the meantime, I guess you can do some checking on the OBDII connector to make sure that's at least normal. With ignition OFF, check Terminal #16 for battery power (it should be hot at all times). Then check for resistance between CAN high/low lines (Terminals #6 and #14), which should be about 55-65 Ohms. Then, check continuity to ground on each of Terminals #4 and #5. Just a note, on my car the connector is upside down from what's depicted in the diagram below (not sure if this is the same for all Accents of this vintage).

BTW, was there any work done on the car recently before this problem happened? When was the remote start system installed?

 

I don't have any other scanner tool for now, I'll try to check the terminals you asked, just to be sure for the #4 and #5, how I am suppose to process to test these? And for your other questions, I didn't done any other reparation recently on this car, and for the remote start, I have the car since 2019 and the remote start was already on it at this time

 

I figure if your getting the message "cannot communicate" the plug pins 16 along with 4 and 5 are active so it gets back to Data. As mentioned in post 11 check all ECU power fuses.
With diagnostics check that the pins in the cars OBD2 socket have not been pushed back inside and not making contact.
If you think your scantool has a software issue (I doubt it) try using just the OBD2 and not Hyundai specific.

 

I figure if your getting the message "cannot communicate" the plug pins 16 along with 4 and 5 are active so it gets back to Data. As mentioned in post 11 check all ECU power fuses.
With diagnostics check that the pins in the cars OBD2 socket have not been pushed back inside and not making contact.
If you think your scantool has a software issue (I doubt it) try using just the OBD2 and not Hyundai specific.

I checked all the fuses with a voltmeter as autospark said.
What do you mean be try using just the OBD2 and not Hyundai specific?

 

I have no idea. I have not heard of that brand before and yes it does have a basic look to it.
Even the simplist tool should be able to communicate. The only issues I have seen is tools not communicating with VPW which is not used by Hyundai.

 

and yes it does have a basic look to it.

It looks like it came out of a (big) Christmas cracker