have you checked the battery in the remote?and has it ever drop in water?

 

As he stated there is no remote, so that is not the issue.

 

Key Problem


My Eon Sportz Key Remote not work..

 

There are two possibilities happening here:

1) Your driver's door lock actuator (the one that signals the other doors to open or close when you lock/unlock using key in driver's door), may be with false contacts. This will require some knowledge as the door may have to be disassbled (inluding glass removal) so actuator can be removed for inspection or repair.

2) The system is governed by two relays, located behind the passenger compartment fuse box (see attached service manual pages). One or both of this relays may be failing or with false contacts. Proceed as instructed in service manual pages for checking this relays and the power door locks contacts.

 

Thanks for the info, will try and solve the problem today

 

Hello Robert B,
I couldnt find the relays, I had my head everywhere looking for them, I did as it said from the file that you sent me, the only relays I could see were blue ones plugged into the back of the fuse board, but these didnt match the picture in the file that you gave me. So I decided to look at the door actuator. When I unplugged the 6p connector from the actuator, it shows 6 pins, on mine I only have 4pins, the pin in the middle top and bottom are blank, so I couldnt check for continuity as it says on the first page. The locks all lock, off the drivers door key at the mo, but dont unlock, just the drivers door unlocks off the key. When the plug is unplugged and I put a 12v supply to the actuator plug like it says on page BE-82, nothing happens. On the loom coming with the 6p plug on ( the one that is coming from inside the vehicle) I have 12v across 2 of the pins ( pins 1 and 3). If I put a 12v supply on pins 4 and 5 will this tell the rest of the car to unlock, is that what these 2 pins are for?
Hope Ive written this so it can be understood, can you or anyone help me.
Cheers
Tonygnu

 

Hello Robert B,
I couldnt find the relays, I had my head everywhere looking for them, I did as it said from the file that you sent me, the only relays I could see were blue ones plugged into the back of the fuse board, but these didnt match the picture in the file that you gave me. So I decided to look at the door actuator. When I unplugged the 6p connector from the actuator, it shows 6 pins, on mine I only have 4pins, the pin in the middle top and bottom are blank, so I couldnt check for continuity as it says on the first page. The locks all lock, off the drivers door key at the mo, but dont unlock, just the drivers door unlocks off the key. When the plug is unplugged and I put a 12v supply to the actuator plug like it says on page BE-82, nothing happens. On the loom coming with the 6p plug on ( the one that is coming from inside the vehicle) I have 12v across 2 of the pins ( pins 1 and 3). If I put a 12v supply on pins 4 and 5 will this tell the rest of the car to unlock, is that what these 2 pins are for?
Hope Ive written this so it can be understood, can you or anyone help me.
Cheers
Tonygnu

This is sure bugging. One of our daughters' Getz is wired exactly as yours, and is having similar problems, but worst, because in our case, the locks "sometimes" lock and "sometimes" unlock", randomly and not specific to each of the five locks (4 drs + boot).

Our problem just started last week and I am stumbled upon discovering the car's wires are different from the service manual. In the meantime, I have disconnected the driver's door plug, so the whole system is disabled. We do not want any doors to remain unlocked while thinking they are locked, until this problem is sorted out.

Next weekend I will try deeper to figure out what is going on here. If no success, then I'll have to get to the dealer's shop, since I've contacted a couple of independent "electric" shops and both told me that the problem is withing the door's actuators themselves, from bad and loose contacts inside and there is no way to fix this because they are sealed units. Both told me that the door actuators have to be replaced and that is a very expensive option.

I will post again my findings and let you know.

 

Ok, cheers Robert

 

Well, no luck after going through all 4 doors and boot. Now its off to the hyundai dealer's shop. First call and talk to the guys suggest the first diagnosis is right on. The actuators may be too worn out (contacts) and may need new actuators, which are very expensive since they are sealed units with include the doors latches and locks. Besides, replacing the actuators means the door mechanisms including the glass will have to be removed, making this labor very expensive and time consuming.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Ok, keep me informed please.
Cheers
Tonygnu

 

Well, the car is back and we have a final diagnose. Three of the 5 latch actuators need replacing. They are worn out due to rust and probably, too much debris. The bad thing about this is that each actuator is very expensive (at around $150 each) and replacing them is quite expensive too, since the whole door must be internally disassembled including the removal of the glass. Labor was quoted at $250 for the three doors needing it.

But... (this is a very big BUT!), one of the guys at the Hyundai shop suggested the following:

"Replacing the three actuators will only mean the other two will be likely to fail any time soon. Of course the central locking will end up like new but at a very high price and to be honest, its not worth putting that amount of cash into a fairly devaluated car (its a 2003). So, why don't you ask around for a set of aftermarket central locking plungers.....????"

We did asked around, and found an interesting solution. At a local stereo and auto alarm place, they quoted $180 for a complete new alarm system that includes the 5 door actuators. Price includes installation.

So, I guess that's the way we are going to fix this. With an aftermarket alarm and central lock system. __________________

 

Hello Tony, any luck with your door lock actuator problem? I have a SM model Santa Fe and am having problems with the passenger actuator functioning intermittently. I am at the point where I will next take off the door panels and check the wiring harness pins 1&3, 2&3 for continuity. Thanks, and Be Safe, Mark V.

 

central locking

Hello all,
I havent done anything to the car since, as the weather is shite, and the central locking is working again !!!
But I want it to stop raining so I can whip the door panel off and see what voltages I have on the plugs now that they are working at the mo.

Robert, can you tell me the name of the alarm and where you acn get it from for me please, just in case, does the alarm itself come with the actuators ?

Cheers Tonygnu

 

Hello all,
I havent done anything to the car since, as the weather is shite, and the central locking is working again !!!
But I want it to stop raining so I can whip the door panel off and see what voltages I have on the plugs now that they are working at the mo.

Robert, can you tell me the name of the alarm and where you acn get it from for me please, just in case, does the alarm itself come with the actuators ?

Cheers Tonygnu

The alarm system is an Excalibur such as this one: AL-1630-EDPB Deluxe Vehicle Car Alarm Security System with Remote Start

It does not come with the actuators, but a keyless kit like this one is added, plus an extra actuator for the trunk. Omega DS-KIT-4.4 (dskit44) 4-Door Central Locking System

This system can be installed for remote engine starting, as well as automatic windows up (when locking vehicle).

I'll get it installed sometime next week. They said they need the car for half a day.

 

Getz central locking problems

Hi everyone. I have just registered on the site, and already got a lot of info to my problem. will chat soon. thanks

 

I've just bought a Hyundai Getz 1.6 Sport and had the same issue with the central locking not working, the garage I bought it from tried everything, then found a fuse within a fuse which had blown, not sure where or which one it was but it took them ages, as soon as they replaced the fuse all good.

 

yeh same problem central locking playing up at first then stopped working alltogether tried new motor for drivers side still no joy looked everywere for these central locking relays had a look at diagram still avnt got a clue were they r checked behind clove box can someone please explain were they are located thanks

 

looked everywere for these central locking relays had a look at diagram still avnt got a clue were they r

Hello Neil, welcome to the forum.

If your car doesn't have the factory alarm/remote locking then it doesn't have any relays (or a control box) for the central locking. It's controlled by the switch inside the drivers door. Have you checked the c/locking fuse (Fuse 11) on the dash fusebox?

Happy new year when it comes.
Scottie.

 

I know this is an old thread but i actually worked on one of these today and thought what i found may be helpful.
If you access the fuse panel inside the car beneath the steering wheel(On Aussie models) at the very bottom of all the fuses you will notice there is a yellow plug holder pull this out as far as it will go unclip the end of it and replace the 15amp fuse and then check your door locks.
The particular 2011 hyundai Getz i was working on had no interior light,no central locking and the radio was dead this fixed all three.
I hope this helps someone out there

 

My 2000 sonata had a similar fault and I was able to fix it with a help of my dad's multimeter
My radio was now not working, central lock not working, and i could still faintly see that the door open signal from the dash and even the dome light.
I realized that the 10A fuse which controls doors and clock which had blown our was the cause
When it was replaced....all faults got resolved.
solution
Test all fuse with a beeping multimeter to see which one does not beep if you touch both ends..All working fuse will beef. Malfuctioning fuse wont beep

 

I have a 2013 santa fe. My remote key and manual key stopped working. I initially thought it was the battery so I tried the replacement remote I have & the same happened.
The switch on the drivers door to control locking/unlocking the doors work only when the key is in on.
When try to use manual key to open or close only the driver's door work. The other doors have to manually close. Please help!!

 

The switch on the drivers door to control locking/unlocking the doors work only when the key is in on.
Please help!!

Try replacing the DR LOCK fuse, located on the dashboard fusebox.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

My car will not lock as long as the car is running it worries me at night when I have to stop at a stop sign or stop light at night. I locks fine when the car isn't running. Does anyone know what night be causing this.

 

replaced door actuator on a 2003 Hyundai coupe now doors relock as quick as they are unlocked what could cause this

 

It may help you guys
I had the same problem, had all the doors to bits as the relay for these is built into the actuator, with no luck
Then I noticed the boot handle was slightly stiff and sometimes wouldn't engage to open the boot, so I sprayed a water dispersent onto the inside of the handle and the lock mechanism and now all is fine!

Hope this helps

Aiden

 

There seems to be a major problem with the central locking system on the Hyundai which we are currently experiencing.
Why does it take so long to fix. Someone has to take responsibility for this and fix the problem.
This problem impacts a lot of people so why is it taking so long to fix?

 

I am having the same problem with my 1.1 2004 gsi 3 door. If I unlock the driver door, its hit and miss as to whether the passenger door and boot will unlock...sometimes it works fine for a few days, then the passenger door and boot don't unlock for a while and if they're all unlocked and you go to lock it, the passenger door and boot stay unlocked. Once I managed to lock the passenger door by locking the boot...

 

Door Lock Actuator Problem

I'm just starting to have this problem on a 2000 Elantra. One thing I don't understand from previous replies......what is "the boot" that everyone is mentioning??

 

Hello Harry, welcome to the forum 00000732

what is "the boot" that everyone is mentioning??

Ah, you must be from "over there". The boot is that bit at the back of the car where you put your shopping bags after a visit to the local Asda store...OOPS..I mean Walmart. I think you guys call it the trunk.

Scottie.

 

Thanks for the welcome AUTOSPARK. Yes, I'm from the other side. Didn't realize I was at first. LOL :wink:
Thanks for clarifying what the "ol' boot" was. Learn something new every day.
On another note, my door lock actuator problem somehow fixed itself.....as least for now. The car was sitting for a couple weeks before the door locks started acting up. I drove the car about 80 miles (that would be about 129 km), and then the doors would all lock & unlock with the interior driver's door switch, but still not with the driver's door key. I drove the car back home that day, and then the driver's door key started working as well. Go figure!! My boot (trunk) must be different, as it opens either with a key or the internal pull cable lever by the driver's seat.
Guess I'll just have to keep a wary eye on things.

Happy Harry

 

Hi,
I'm new here, can anyone help me, my hyundai I10 car model 2018 have remote locking, it just works with remote. Now the central locking started playing with all function with remote but unfortunately the central lock does not work after press in remote key.. Kindly help me out to solve my issue

 

Man did this post take some left, right and wrong turns.

 

I experienced the same problem once in a while. My fix, open/close all the doors and it will work fine. They say it might be a sync issue with all the doors.

 

I managed to fix my central locking that wasn't well locking, but was unlocking fine
My Getz has an aftermarket alarm that allows for remote central locking, so I was able to utilise the open and close signal from that instead of the driver's door locking system.
The locking relay must have died. I bypassed the driver's door lock unit by first separating the connector and using the aftermarket actuator's opening and close signal. I spliced the red and green wires in the car's loom and soldered them to the two wires from the aftermarket actuator.
If you haven't already got an aftermarket central locking system they are about £12 on E-bay, easy to install and much cheaper than a new drivers side door lock.

Aiden

 

The locking relay must have died.

If that's the case it would have been a lot easier to just replace the dead relay.