Take a shot of it if you can and post it. If it were me and I had to use the car...I would try electrical tape on the boot. 1st layer up high and the next half-way down the 1st...so it will gradually get thicker. You might have to experiment to see how much snugness you need.

 

You can try the tape method, or just give your local dealer or parts store a call and see if they have a bolt in stock. They shouldn't be anymore than a buck to buy. If you go with the tape method, just make sure to tape it down tight so your car doesn't misfire.

 

Any large hardware store would have the metric bolt...it's getting out the sheared one!

 

I had foamboard laying around stacked it about 5 high with tape holding it to pack and put the engine cover back on to hold the pack down drove it 5 miles no problem. Taking valve cover off tomorrow to replace gasket gonna try to remove broken bolt. During the process. Any treads on valve cover removal?

There's about a 1/4 in out of the cover, I'm gonna try vise grips and then maybe just tap it while it's out.

 

You should not run the car with coil packs disconnected from ground and placed on the engine with tape. The bolted components provide grounding and shielding to reduce EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference). Without proper grounding, the electrical charge can spike, especially around the coils (30,000+ volts) can cause charge build-up and damage many electronic components.

Replace the bolt. Don’t forget to use a light coating of Nickel anti-seize, prevent corrosion and ensure electrical connection (Grounding)
(Do not use Copper or Zinc anti-seize on aluminum. This can create a low temperature alloy of Al-Zn or Al-Cu which will “Fuse” the parts together. )

 

This sounds very much like your previous post...is this deja vu all-over again?

 

Additional Engineering Notes. Previously used a $40,000+ HP EMI sniffer, the wide band probe cost #3,000. Disconnecting the shield to ground connection can cause the stray voltage and current to build. The voltage will climb as high as needed to discharge to ground. On the HP EMI sniffer O-scope, that voltage easily climbed pass 200,000 volts to 1 million volts before discharging. More reason to connect your coils to ground and not use tape for mounding

 

Engineering is a wondrous thing...if I had to use the car to go for a parts I would take the chance. I worked with a manager who regularly used a lithium battery (not designed to charge) in a charging circuit meant for ni-cad, they never blew-up in his face? I would not take that responsibility lightly.

 

RAYMUND whilst your info is very interesting and outside my realms of expertise can you please explain how an electromagnetic fields generated by 30KV can get to a million taking into account insulation losses and distance.

 

This is why 12V battery voltage becomes 30KV, lift the ground and allow the coil voltage to float up. In the old day they did this with points. The points are normally closed to ground. To increase the voltage in the coil, they disconnect the ground and allow the voltage to rise.

This electrical phenomena was known even by Tesla, Marconi, Faraday. And used in Radio, Microwave, power boost circuits are all based on this 200+ year old technology.

The ground shield on the outside of the coil provide “Faraday” shield. When the “Faraday” shield is not properly grounded, the voltage can float. The voltage continue to rise until the potential is high enough to “fly-off” to nearest ground. Great example of this is the static charge on a balloon, rubbing the balloon cause static charge build up. Since it is not connected to ground the voltage builds until ”Millions” of volt of charge build up and “fly-off” to nearest ground. Remember Voltage can build to millions of volt without much amperage. It is the voltage with amperage which damage electronics. The coil is a great voltage and amperage current source.

 

FWIW, I've burst open quite a few old COP ignition coils. They're a great source of free enamelled copper wire. I've never come across a two wire coil like the ones used on the Accent with a connection to the securing bolt though. I've snapped that mounting lug off and have found no wires between the bolt and the body of the coil. So I wouldn't worry about how your coils are secured, as long as they're secured.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

Old school. The point gap in the distributor was always greater than the spark plug gap. This distributor cam lifts the point and disconnect the ground. The voltage in the coil builds until it finds the nearest ground. The spark plug with 0.035” to 0.040” gap is the nearest ground, The distributor point gap is 0.050” to 0.060” and have higher resistance.

Modern day. The spark plug gap is still 0.035” to 0.040”, and have a known resistance in cylinder ”air-fuel” ratio. The mosfets and zener diodes have a higher resistance (impedance) than the spark gap. Therefore the coil charge travels to the nearest ground, which is the spark plug gap.

The coil and spark plug wires are huge sources of RF (EMI) noise. That is why most coild have a Faraday shield and in many cased the last two coils are inverted to provide Faraday coil energy recovery (effectively behaving like the Buck Power Circuit output coil, witch is inverted from the primary coil). These Faraday shields to prevent EMI and RF radiation they need to be grounded to prevent voltage build up.

 

The point gap in the distributor was always greater than the spark plug gap.

The cars I drove with points the points gap was smaller than the plugs

This distributor cam lifts the point and disconnect the ground.

Yes

The spark plug with 0.035” to 0.040” gap is the nearest ground,

If the ignition system is healthy, and the leads are doing their job, yes

The distributor point gap is 0.050” to 0.060” and have higher resistance.

The points control the primary coil, and it's gap(resistance) has absolutely nothing to do with what path the high voltage output of the secondary coil takes.

In modern vehicle the job of the points is now all solid state, but the principle is the same.

 

The grammar and spell checker hates Engineering and Scientific words. It keeps altering my spelling with strange words. I keep correcting it and it keeps changing the words. Exhausting.

 

Are you copy/pasting from another word processor...I never have problems with them changing here?
Your theories are interesting, but you are repetitive...I believe the shield ground is in the plug/connector harness and not from the bolt.

 

On both my Hyundai the coils have a constant 12v+ from the engine control relay and the ground is controlled by the ECU. The coil mounting bolt just goes into a metal insert in the plastic valve cover. The coil mount is not a ground on plastic valve covers, unless Hyundai went back to 12v+ coil control and the bolt goes on through to the head or you have aluminum valve covers.

 

That is what's considered normal operating procedure for coil firing on cars without distributors.

 

How quaint.

 

I remember having to set points and dwell on my '66 Buick Skylark a few decades ago.
It was a whole different world back then and having dual point ignition was a mod for advancing timing quicker and setting the timing by ear was an art.
Ahhh the good old days. 😂😁

 

The purpose of a dual point ignition was to increase the dwell time without decreassing the point gap. This gave the coil longer to build up the magnetic field.

 

Correct. 👍
I should've been more clear on what I was referring to. 🤷🏼‍♂️😉

Here's what I was referring to with ignition advance on a point dwell system.

The above is what I did on my Buick many years ago and along with adding a bigger cam to the engine which woke up the power nicely. Left picture is how my setup looked and worked.

Originally there was only one centrifugal weight on the rotor shaft. I added a dual weight setup for faster ignition timing and played with the springs to get it working perfectly.
At 45 mph when I went full throttle it would bark the tires quite nicely and with a 2speed PowerGlide transmission that meant you had a bit of power at the wheels. 😂😍

Dual point was a dream I had for the Buick but alas they didn't have such a setup for the 340 motor back in those days. 😞

 

Boy it's been over 40 years since O worked on one of those GM distributors. Yes the 340 was a great engine.

 

Yep! I remember those too.

 

We're all showing our age. 😂😜😉👍

 

They were big bread and butter for me back in the 70's. Yep old B.

 

I had '70 Dodge van with a 383 out of a '68 Road Runner. It had a dual point distributor....which I believe was built by Prestolite. Thing would haul arse I know that.

 

God I wish I was around back then. I've always dreamt of having an old Chevelle or Charger. I'm debating saving up and having a cheaper classic car along side my Accent

 

Don't wait too long. Those cheap classic cars aren't getting any cheaper.

 

Man you are so right about that!! My favorite was a 1968 AMC Javelin.

 

Ok so I am replacing the valve cover gasket, extracting the broken bolt and replacing it today. The car ran fine with the insulation stacked with the engine cover holding the coil pack down.

Anybody got a how to for valve cover removal or along those lines?



Sent from my moto e6 (XT2005DL) using Tapatalk

 

Ok so I am replacing the valve cover gasket, extracting the broken bolt and replacing it today. The car ran fine with the insulation stacked with the engine cover holding the coil pack down.

Anybody got a how to for valve cover removal or along those lines?



Sent from my moto e6 (XT2005DL) using Tapatalk

Not in exact order but it's the best I got to help. 👍😎