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Never mind, I checked the 12v battery and it read 12.05v after 100 miles of hilly driving. Replaced with an oreilly battery. Coincidentally, it is the exact same battery as the OEM one and it's also made in Korea. VERY hard to find this battery and it was the last one in stock in my area.

 

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The battery was $140 plus tax and core charge. Not sure if it fixed it yet, but since it was at 20-25 percent charge I think it was confusing the computers. The check engine light hasn't come back on.

 

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It's strange that the battery would be already in need of replacement. If anything, the 12V battery lasts longer because it's not used to crank the engine. Did the one you replace look like the original OEM battery?

The battery was the original one. The car does have 84k miles when I bought it a month or so ago, so maybe it was just on its way out. I had to replace a '16 Kia Sorento battery this year as well as it left me stranded. I saw that the OEM battery is made by Johnson Controls and I've had nothing but issues with their other batteries.

The check engine light still hasn't come back on and there are no codes pending. I will take it back out in a month or so and drive it 100 miles again.

 

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Problem hasn't come back, but I found this TSB for the electric water pump. It basically describes all of my past issues. Anyone know what that wire that it says to cut does? I might check to see if it was done and/or perform the procedure...

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10082344-0699.pdf

 

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So curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try the procedure. Turns out that the dealer did the TSB, but they just left the wires exposed and they were somewhat corroded ?. I snipped off the corroded parts and used heat shrink to seal them shut.

 

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Well, the problem came back . Looks like the problem will be the water pump for $1030 list price at the dealer. I can buy one for $315 plus shipping from sparekorea but I will wait until the problem gets worse. It is intermittent and seems to happen every 2 months or so at freeway speeds (65-70mph). It does not seem to matter whether the engine is cold or hot. Wiring has checked out and so has the battery.

 

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Hi, Did you solve problem? I have faced with same problem. Please share if you tackle with this.

Yes, I ended up inspecting the water pump wiring harness and found 2 problems on it.

First, the dealer that performed the previous wiring TSB did not follow it to the letter and left a bare power cable exposed. I repaired it by following the TSB on that issue.

Second was that the harness was rubbing on a bracket above the Hybrid Starter Generator. I rerouted it so that it wasn't rubbing anymore and the code has not come back since.

 

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Here is the TSB for the engine electric water pump that the dealer performed on my car. I suggest taking it to the dealer if this TSB hasn't been done. Included in this post are the P0261F DTC procedures from the service manual.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10076420-5448.pdf

 

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Welp, it came back after almost a year of problem free driving. I ordered a new pump from Sparekorea.com and cost me $400. I could probably clear it and drive along, but I'm not taking a chance anymore.

If anyone needs to replace theirs, make sure to use your VIN to find out which pump you need as there are 3 different pumps for different production years!

 

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Just installed the new water pump but can't start it until the new belt arrives. It was a major PITA to replace. Hyundai wants you to remove the intake manifold and the HSG in order to do the job.


NOTE: READ THROUGH THE WHOLE POST. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES OR DAMAGES. IF YOU DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE TOUCHING OR WORKING WITH HIGH VOLTAGE TAKE IT TO THE DEALER!

I took a different approach and removed it from the bottom. Disconnect the negative lead from the 12v battery, then take off the top right cover off of the HV battery pack to remove the safety plug. WAIT at least 15 minutes for the HV system to discharge. Drain the engine coolant system.

Take off the entire engine skid plate on the bottom and unbolt the 3 bolts holding the AC compressor on the engine. Make sure to support the compressor using a tie wrap or similar tool. Remove the 4 black bolts holding the compressor mounting plate from the engine. Loosen the 2 bolts on the water pump but leave one of them barely threaded on.

Next to ease hose removal, unbolt the stiffener bracket from the intake manifold from the engine. It is located right above the oil filter and cooler. You'll have more room to remove the hoses going to the water pump. Disconnect the water pump connector by pressing the lock tab down and then gently pulling on the lever clip. The connector should come off smoothly.

Now remove the 2 nuts for the thermostat housing on the water pump and remove the thermostat. It will be stuck so use a curved pick to pull it off. I suggest replacing it since you are already there. The new thermostat comes with a seal.

There are 3 bolts securing the water pump on top of it. I highly recommend using a mirror or camera to get a better view for this part. Using a wobble extension is advised as the space is very narrow. I also recommend either magnetic sockets or a similar socket that will ease in installation of these 3 bolts.

After removing all 5 water pump bolts it should just come right out the bottom. Clean the mounting surface and install the new pump. The new pump comes with gaskets.

Overall, it's around a 8 hour job for the average joe and plan on getting multiple cuts on your hands. You do not have to touch the serpentine belt this way and not have to buy that special hydraulic compressing tool from Hyundai.

 

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Final update: Please replace all four OEM hose spring clamps with new worm clamps, or you will have a coolant leak all over the driveway. I've never had that happen before with spring clamps, but I learned something new today.

The new belt came in and was easy to install. I used a long 17mm wrench, a cheater bar, and an extra person holding the tensioner while I snaked the belt on. I turned the crankshaft pulley so that the new belt would guide itself in. Test drove the car all day today and I have no issues so far.

 

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Thanks, but the actual pump itself is plastic all the way and the only things that I see that went wrong are the electronics inside. The new water pump has a big heatsink on the outside area where the electronics are housed and the old pump just had a round flat cap on that.

I used a vacuum coolant fill that sucks all the air out of the system and refills it perfectly.

 

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There is a drain petcock on the small radiator for the hybrid cooling system. The radiator is located behind the bumper in front of the condenser.

 

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That’s the regular engine radiator drain.

The hybrid electric motor and inverter cooling system don’t have a drain. I’ve drained the radiator, but the hybrid cooling tank stayed full. The hybrid cooling system tank is next to the air cleaner and the separate electric antifreeze pump is on the passenger side front fender. There is no low drain.

I’ve resorted to using a Turkey baster to suck out the anti-freeze, at every oil change (est. 4 months/ 4K miles) and refilling. This keeps the Hybrid electric motor antifreeze fresh. I tried turning on the engine to get the coolant circulating but the hybrid electric motor does not get hot, therefore the pump does not circulate the coolant.

Turkey Baster Suck/Fill Rules for hybrid electric motor anti-freeze.

I use the 50/50 premix, 100,000 mile anti-freeze for Asian cars with aluminum engines. $17.95 for 4 qts, have lasted over 2 yrs, with only 1/2 used or 2 qts.

The 2016 does have a drain for the hybrid cooling system and one for the engine cooling system. See part number 25318 on this diagram. I am not sure of any other years but the 2016 definitely has a drain.

https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/page_product/pl?vin=KMHE34L19GA013032&filter=()&subCategoryUrl=engine%2fengine_cooling_system&diagram=&partNumbers=

 

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Took the old water pump apart and found out why it failed. The plastic encased magnet that actually rotates the pump fins had cracked at the shaft and allowed rust to form under the plastic. This in turn caused the pump to bind up and set the code. I found metal shavings on the pump itself and found the bottom of the magnet was very shiny compared to the other one in the photo. The other old pump that I had was also starting to crack and would have failed in exactly the same way.

Unfortunately, it looks like water pump replacements are in the future for all of us 2016 and above owners. The new pump looks very different, so I hope that they've solved this issue and I hope they offer the pump assembly by itself in the future.

 

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Hello, would you please place the part number for the replacement pump?

thank you!

Hello,

There are three different part numbers for different production years. Please be careful when buying it. Most parts websites were giving me the wrong part number. I used this catalog to find mine. You have to go by the production year of your car.

The part numbers available are:

25100-2E270
25100-2E271
25100-2E272

https://hyundai.catalogs-parts.com/...mape616;prm:no.parameters,;group:en;subgroup:25251a11}#param=detail:25100-2e270

EDIT: Link is broken. Go to sparekorea.com scroll down and click on "search Hyundai parts". Then type in one of the part numbers that I gave you in the part number section and a list of pumps and other parts will appear. Use the production date on the right hand side to find your water pump.

 

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For anyone having these symptoms or codes, there is a new Hyundai TSB out that covers this problem. They might replace it for free if you take it in.

 

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Can you please share the TSB # you're referring to.

It is TSB #21-EM-007H

 

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Well folks, the new pump has failed today. It only lasted 30-40k miles. I'm going to be selling this car ASAP as it's ridiculous to keep wasting money on electric pumps.