Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, now I know why the car was so cheap ?.

Got a P261F code. Not much information on it. I'm assuming I'll need a new coolant pump? The car basically told me to check hybrid system and shut off engine. This was during a 100 mile trip with some steep hills. It's also raining and at 65F.

Does anyone know the resistance specs for the coolant pump? I'd like to test it with a multimeter before condemning it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Never mind, I checked the 12v battery and it read 12.05v after 100 miles of hilly driving. Replaced with an oreilly battery. Coincidentally, it is the exact same battery as the OEM one and it's also made in Korea. VERY hard to find this battery and it was the last one in stock in my area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,192 Posts
How much did it set you back, and did it fix your issue? We have a thread on this here:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The battery was $140 plus tax and core charge. Not sure if it fixed it yet, but since it was at 20-25 percent charge I think it was confusing the computers. The check engine light hasn't come back on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,192 Posts
Sounds like it needed changing, and the price was excellent. Hopefully it will be fine going forward...Best of luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
The battery was $140 plus tax and core charge. Not sure if it fixed it yet, but since it was at 20-25 percent charge I think it was confusing the computers. The check engine light hasn't come back on.
It's strange that the battery would be already in need of replacement. If anything, the 12V battery lasts longer because it's not used to crank the engine. Did the one you replace look like the original OEM battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It's strange that the battery would be already in need of replacement. If anything, the 12V battery lasts longer because it's not used to crank the engine. Did the one you replace look like the original OEM battery?
The battery was the original one. The car does have 84k miles when I bought it a month or so ago, so maybe it was just on its way out. I had to replace a '16 Kia Sorento battery this year as well as it left me stranded. I saw that the OEM battery is made by Johnson Controls and I've had nothing but issues with their other batteries.

The check engine light still hasn't come back on and there are no codes pending. I will take it back out in a month or so and drive it 100 miles again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
Nice find. Interesting. So basically open the circuit there and protect from shorts...

"This condition may be due to an intermittent electrical short between the vehicle’s 12 volt power and the Control Area Network (CAN) “High” signal in a circuit board in the Engine Electric Water Pump (EEWP)."

I assume opening this circuit prevents the intermittent short condition and doesn't affect any other functionality. Odd..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
So curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try the procedure. Turns out that the dealer did the TSB, but they just left the wires exposed and they were somewhat corroded ?. I snipped off the corroded parts and used heat shrink to seal them shut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well, the problem came back :(. Looks like the problem will be the water pump for $1030 list price at the dealer. I can buy one for $315 plus shipping from sparekorea but I will wait until the problem gets worse. It is intermittent and seems to happen every 2 months or so at freeway speeds (65-70mph). It does not seem to matter whether the engine is cold or hot. Wiring has checked out and so has the battery.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top