What does the cruise do or don't do? Do the brake lights work right?

 

Touring, no cruise --> Verify all the stop lights work proper.

Left stop, right stop, and middle stop

We had 1 show up that tech went around in circles, told him to check stop lights, turn out owner installed LED, replaced with 2 std 2357 bulb, all is well

 

Thanks for the responses, I appreciate it!

Okay, so the underlying problem is that the stop lights do not work correctly.

The middle stop light works correctly, left and right do not. With the brake pedal depressed (piece of 1" x 1" trim wood jammed between seat and pedal) the middle light comes on, but no lights in left or right come on. All of the incandescent bulbs (there are four per side) are okay visually (filaments are intact).

I was guessing that the brake pedal switch could have redundant circuits, and the middle circuit was good but the left and right faulty. I removed the brake pedal switch and tested it for continuity. I could not find any problem with the old switch. I installed a new AZ brake switch, left and right do not work.

I was guessing that the AZ brake switch may be faulty, so I installed an OEM part. Left and right brake lights do not work.

To get the car back on the road, I disconnected the right and left signal wires, and jumpered a signal wire from the middle stop light to the left and right stop sides. In order to avoid too much current on the middle circuit (8 stop light bulbs) I replaced four incandescent on each side with LEDs.

So my next steps might be:
1. Disconnect the middle light jumper to the right and left
2. Replace eight LED 1157 with incandescent 1157
3a. Check for bad sockets: temporarily connect a 3A fused +12V from the battery to the left signal wire, and put my meter inline to watch the amp draw.
3b. Install a new incandescent 1157 in each socket, wiggle and rotate wiring, looking for bulb to flicker or amp draw go up.
3c. Repeat process for right side, replacing any sockets that when wiggled/rotated cause the fuse to clear or the amp draw to go up/down.

Do these steps make sense, given right and left side stopped working at the same time? It seems like the Hyundai would design the system so that 1, 2 or 3 bulbs could be faulty on a side, and the remaining bulbs still work. And that one side could be faulty, but the other side still work.

Any different trouble shooting steps to take?

 

I found my original posts from 2021 (not 2023) where I did a better job of describing the steps I have taken. What may be a common denominator to these issues is the stop relay: 95240-2L100 Genuine Hyundai Relay Assembly-Stop Signal

I only found one reference to an i30 owner who may have had their stop relay replaced. Is it likely that the stop relay controls the right and left side lights, and the center light is controlled by the stop switch only?

 

My posts from 2021: https://i30ownersclub.com/index.php?topic=61061.0

 

Touring, no cruise --> Verify all the stop lights work proper.

Left stop, right stop, and middle stop

We had 1 show up that tech went around in circles, told him to check stop lights, turn out owner installed LED, replaced with 2 std 2357 bulb, all is well

When we bought the car in 2018 we had the power steering clunk issue. The dealer performed the recall service 56300F23 MDPS FLEXIBLE COUPLING REPLACEMENT. The first time we got the car back from the dealer the steering wheel alignment was way off. The dealer did the work again, and all was well.

In 2023, a cruise control issue popped up that I have been trying to track down. IIRC, the cruise would set but would kick off when going over a bump. The set resume cancel buttons are on the steering wheel. After a few more weeks the cruise would turn ON, but would not set. After a few more weeks, the cruise would no longer turn ON.

The battery is 4.5 years old, and I replaced it last week. After the battery replacement, the traction control light came on.

I had the car scanned, and the tech found codes for power steering and traction control. The tech cleared the codes, and they have not returned.

I am wondering if the power steering codes were left over from 2018. Is it possible that the clock spring was damaged during the recall work, or has just worn out in the last 12 years? Would it make sense to go to the dealer and haven them try to diagnose a bad clock spring by scanning while turning the wheel?

TIA for any ideas / experience or advice

 

I had same issue with 2010 touring SE. I replaced the brake pedal sensor. All good now. New switch from Napa auto parts in stock $15