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How to change Elantra Transmission Fluid

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303K views 58 replies 36 participants last post by  bdahl385  
#1 ·
Here are the official instructions printed out for me by my dealers service dept. You should probably never need to do this. I screwed up and mistakenly drained the fluid in my trans by mistake. :eek: The guide says if you have severe use of your vehicle then you should replace ATF every 60k miles.


elntra tranny info by Doug in Idaho, on Flickr

You will need aprox 5 liters of transmission fluid. Use only the type specified in the back of your owners manual. This cost me $20 a liter from my dealer. You will also need a long narrow funnel. The instructions also recommend replacing the gaskets on all 3 plugs when doing this procedure.

Step 1: Remove the transmission drain plug from bottom of transmission case. This will drain aprox 5 liters of fluid. Allow time for all fluid to drain.

Step 2: Re-install drain plug and tourqe to 34.3 - 44.1 NM (3.5 - 4.5 kgf.m, 25.3 - 32.6 lb-ft)

Step 3: Unscrew filler eyebolt (see below...front slightly to the right of the engine). I found that the my socket wrench extension fit perfectly into the square opening in the middle of the eyebolt.


elntra tranny info by Doug in Idaho, on Flickr

Step 4: Insert your funnel into the opening and start adding fluid very slowly. I found that it liked to back up and overflow if I went to fast. It took about 30 mins for me to get all the fluid in without it backing up and out of the opening. The instructions call for adding 5 liters but the service counter guy recommended going with only 4.5 liters at least until you can check the level.

Now time to check the fluid level. The instructions say this is easier with vehicle on a lift.

Step 1. Start the engine (don't step on brake and accelerator at same time.)

Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS.

Step 3. Shift the select lever slowly from P to D then D to P and repeat once more at idle. Leave in each position for at least 2 seconds.

Step 4. Lift the vehicle then remove the oil level check plug from the front side of the transmission case (see first diagram above)

Step 5. (note vehicle must be at a level state) If the oil flows out of the overflow (level check) plug in a thin steady stream then the oil level is correct. If excess oil flows out in a thick stream you have an excess fluid level condition. If no oil flows out you have a shortage situation and need to add additional fluid.

Step 6. Once the level is correct tighten the overflow/level check plug and then re-install the eyebolt on the filler opening. Torque to (4.9 - 5.9 NM (0.5 - 0.6 kgfm, 3.6 - 4.3 lb-ft)

Step 7. Clean up any fluid on painted surfaces in the engine bay as fluid is corrosive to paint.

Step 8. Beer! :D
 
#8 ·
it would be nice to drain the torque converter as it's still loaded with old oil. can you just drain it by starting the engine and idle a short period of time in neutral? this afternoon I'm taking my GF's 2004 Accent to the dealer for a tranny oil change, they told me they would drain also the torque converter and when the car leaves the dealer only new oil is in the tranny. They also remove the pan and change the filter for a total of $158
 
#11 ·
the design's probably different. newer models filters are lifetime use (probably because new machines don't make as much shavings, and the drain bolt is magnet)

to "drain" torque converter, on my car, which drains 3.3qt a time,

i do it once, drive around for a week, come back, do it again, drive for a week, then do it again, so 3 times, and it goes from
100% contamination to 70%, then 49% then 34.3% (about 10qt total capacity) so... if you get it :p it makes me warm and fuzzy inside and sleep well.


Nice write-up. For now, I'll skip steps 1-7 and proceed straight to #8.
ME TOO

"Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS."

My bf did the same thing and removed the drain plug for the tranny instead of the engine oil. i was wondering since i dont have a lift, is it still possible to check the level?

how do you test the temp? is this an important thing when filling tranny? what is GDS?

Thank You
just run the car through WITH WHEELS IN THE AIR, through all shifter positions and listen to a song in park, it'll get you right to 140F.
(am i wrong? i personally never worked on this particular MD but most of the time warming up gets it to warm then driving makes it hot (200F))
 
#10 ·
"Step 2. Confirm the temperature of the A/T oil temp sensor is 50-60 C (122-140F) with the GDS."

My bf did the same thing and removed the drain plug for the tranny instead of the engine oil. i was wondering since i dont have a lift, is it still possible to check the level?

how do you test the temp? is this an important thing when filling tranny? what is GDS?

Thank You
 
#12 ·
"step 2. Confirm the temperature of the a/t oil temp sensor is 50-60 c (122-140f) with the gds."

my bf did the same thing and removed the drain plug for the tranny instead of the engine oil. I was wondering since i dont have a lift, is it still possible to check the level?

How do you test the temp? Is this an important thing when filling tranny? What is gds?

Thank you
:00000732:
 
#37 ·
My car is Elantra Touring 2012. I checked my car. I really couldn't find the filler eyebolt. I found one soft rubber cap instead, and easy to open it by hand. The port looks like connecting to the transmission. I don't know if it is the fill port for ATF. I just worry about I couldn't fill the ATF after I drained the ATF. And I don't know if I can fill ATF by dipstick port. Any ideas? thanks.
 
#39 ·
I got the transmission fluid on my Elantra 2012 done yesterday. The SP4-M is not available here in the country, so decided to go with "Amsoil OE Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid" which is compatible with SP-IV. Used a total of 5 Quarts of oil.

So far the gear shifts have been smooth as I had an issue with hard gear shifts for the past few weeks.
 
#42 ·
Sorry to cut in but I have a question. I notice that every 3 weeks or so, my transmission (while in a lower gear, going maybe 20mph) will slip. This happens then I'm good for 3 weeks or a month or so.

It does it for a second and then everything is fine again.

I understand this is a sealed system.

My question is - can fluid go low in a "sealed system?" I have about 148K miles on the car and I've driven it for 5 years in snow and mountain terrain. Can the fluid burn itself up and get lower, thus causing the occasional slip?
 
#44 ·
Thank you for the information. I guess I just have to crawl under and start looking for leaks. In the event I don't see anything, I'm assuming the proper course of action would be to take it in to a tranny shop and explain the very limited and occasional slip, and see what comes of that. The only thing I'm afraid of is that they will all tell me I need a new transmission.