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Who Is Running Higher Psi In Tires?

13K views 60 replies 22 participants last post by  afpj  
#1 ·
I have been reading websites like cleanmpg and increasing tire pressure is always mentioned for better fuel economy so I gave it a shot. This week I went from 32 to 37 then up to 42 psi cold and my tires haven't exploded yet :thumbsup: . The ride is a tiny bit stiffer but cornering and handling seems more precise, acceleration seems a little easier, and I can certainly coast longer. Tire noise is the same or perhaps even less. I'm near the end of this tank and I did lots of city driving over the holiday weekend so I cant say if its helped my mpg at all but I plan to keep them at 42 cold for experimentation since it goes up 2-3psi when warm.

My car has the 16" Hankook

Anybody else?
 
#4 ·
I'm running 52/42 F/R - and I have the Continentals. Fuel economy so far is around low 30s city and low 50s on the highway, and I figure that will go up a little when I get a few thousand on the clock.
Max sidewall pressure is 44, I believe, but I don't pay much attention to that number since it's lawyered-up. Like step ladders that say "200 lbs max" that are used all the time by 250lb men carrying 100lbs of materials up the ladder, there is room for error. By exceeding the stated limit, though, you are "on your own" and the tire manufacturer can blame any tire blowout or other damage on excessive inflation pressure. As you are finding out, setting a 44max tire to 42 will not cause an explosion. Unless the tire is damaged, it won't blow out until it is inflated to a pressure well into the triple digits. What you will find, though, is that tires that have plenty of air in them can sometimes feel skittish on loose surfaces and "greasy" on wet surfaces. I am an easy going driver, so I appreciate the sharper steering response and longer tire life at the pressures I use, but there are compromises in ultimate grip in some road/weather conditions, so any spirited/aggressive drivers reading this post will want to think twice before going far above placard pressure.

In any FWD car, I always run staggered pressures to keep the rear end planted during cornering and to allow the rear brakes to do more work when stopping. Years ago, I had a Saturn LS and I pumped the tires up to 70/70 after the gas spike caused by Katrina. The car was a handful in the rain (wet roads felt more like driving in snow) and the rear end kept trying to catch up to the front during cornering. I started playing with the pressures and found that the front tires could handle the pressure increase more than the rear. Yes, the Elantra hops with the tires at 52/42, but it's not objectionable. The ride/noise didn't increase as much as I thought it would as the psi went higher, and seeing the instant mpg meter in the low 60s on flat roads is all the incentive I need to turn up the radio if the noise should ever bother me.
 
#5 ·
That's quite a difference between front and rear, for now I will stick with the same psi all around and see how it works for me. I follow a similar concept on my mountainbike with the psi 5-7 higher in the rear but for me 42psi is crazy behaviour in car tires. If I thought there was a chance of rain the the next few days/weeks/months I would drop back down for sure. For now I will keep my gauge in the car and something feels unsafe I will pull over and adjust the tire pressure. I have an accugage by GHmeiser with a nifty release valve built in
 
#7 ·
QUOTE (someguy @ Jul 6 2011, 04:26 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471851
That's quite a difference between front and rear, for now I will stick with the same psi all around and see how it works for me. I follow a similar concept on my mountainbike with the psi 5-7 higher in the rear but for me 42psi is crazy behaviour in car tires. If I thought there was a chance of rain the the next few days/weeks/months I would drop back down for sure. For now I will keep my gauge in the car and something feels unsafe I will pull over and adjust the tire pressure. I have an accugage by GHmeiser with a nifty release valve built in
At 52/42, the rear tires are pressed to 80% of the front tire pressure. The weight distribution is a little more unbalanced than that, with the rear axle carrying only 70% as much as the front axle.
For an even wilder tire pressure differential, the first generation Chevy Corvair specified 15 front and 26 rear. That was used to correct a nasty oversteer tendency and to induce understeer without a front sway bar, which was deleted at the last minute by the bean counters. Using the same pressure differential and swapping front and rear for the front-engined Elantra, it would equate to 55 front and 32 rear.

You are wise to keep the gage (and air pump if you have one) in the car for some on-the-fly pressure changes. I doubt that setting the tires to 42/42 will turn the Elantra from Jeckyll to Hyde. But if you should venture into the higher numbers (50% over placard and beyond), you will want to confirm that handling and braking - especially in rain or on gravel/sand - remains within acceptable limits. On dry pavement, handling improves - even in emergency manuevers - at the pressures you're using.
 
#8 ·
QUOTE (ranjo @ Jul 6 2011, 03:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471806
There are those on this board who think that causes excessive rear-end hop over bumps at highway speed.
Like me. I noticed significant rear-end squirminess and harshness at 38 psi compared to 32.

Also consider Hyundai's reputation for weak stabilizer links on several models, including previous Elantras. Rock-hard tires can only accelerate wear and tear on components like this, virtually guaranteeing an exercise in financial futility.

There's a reason for the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure sticker on the door frame. Use it. :thumbsup:
 
#9 ·
All I can say is when I took delivery of my car from the dealer they had left the tires at the shipping pressure of 45psi, the first week when I hit all the frost heaves and bumps in the crappy Boston highways I thought my teeth were going to fall out, I swear I could tell you the brand of a cigarette butt by driving over it. I dropped it down to 35 for now and my ride is much much better, I don't care if more pressure gets me double the miles with no side effects or extra wear and tear, I'm leaving it where it's at.
 
#10 ·
QUOTE (chrisvm31 @ Jul 6 2011, 03:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471859
I'm very skeptical of this. A brand new set of tires can buy a heck of a lot of gas. Since tires wear considerably faster when tires are over-inflated, I'm wondering how tire life is affected and if the change in pressure and the related savings on gas are even worth it.
I'm skpetical too but I'm also skeptical about the claims that tires wear out faster when over inflated. Also technically they aren't overinflated per the tire manufacturers specs only the car manufacturer.


QUOTE (DMLexpert @ Jul 6 2011, 03:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471860
At 52/42, the rear tires are pressed to 80% of the front tire pressure. The weight distribution is a little more unbalanced than that, with the rear axle carrying only 70% as much as the front axle.
For an even wilder tire pressure differential, the first generation Chevy Corvair specified 15 front and 26 rear. That was used to correct a nasty oversteer tendency and to induce understeer without a front sway bar, which was deleted at the last minute by the bean counters. Using the same pressure differential and swapping front and rear for the front-engined Elantra, it would equate to 55 front and 32 rear.

You are wise to keep the gage (and air pump if you have one) in the car for some on-the-fly pressure changes. I doubt that setting the tires to 42/42 will turn the Elantra from Jeckyll to Hyde. But if you should venture into the higher numbers (50% over placard and beyond), you will want to confirm that handling and braking - especially in rain or on gravel/sand - remains within acceptable limits. On dry pavement, handling improves - even in emergency manuevers - at the pressures you're using.
I am aware that many performance cars call for different PSI in front and rear tires and often have different size tires but I didnit know it varied that much. I don't expect myself going much higher than the recommended pressure on the sidewall.


QUOTE (Don67 @ Jul 6 2011, 03:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471861
Like me. I noticed significant rear-end squirminess and harshness at 38 psi compared to 32.

Also consider Hyundai's reputation for weak stabilizer links on several models, including previous Elantras. Rock-hard tires can only accelerate wear and tear on components like this, virtually guaranteeing an exercise in financial futility.

There's a reason for the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure sticker on the door frame. Use it. :thumbsup:
42 psi isn't exactly rock hard actually it rides nicer than I expected. I have only been experimenting for a few days and plan to give it a few weeks before I can make educated statements about how it handles. I have followed the psi on the door frame for almost 20 years now and had suspension related issues anyway on other cars. Not sure this will help or hurt anything in that regard
 
#11 ·
QUOTE (someguy @ Jul 6 2011, 05:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471869
I'm skpetical too but I'm also skeptical about the claims that tires wear out faster when over inflated. Also technically they aren't overinflated per the tire manufacturers specs only the car manufacturer.
The accelerated wear claim dates back to the old bias ply tires. Modern tires have thick steel belts that would require stretching of the woven metal band in order to wear more quickly. In my years of driving, the only tires I've ever had to replace were the ones inflated to the pressure shown in the door jamb. Although the current record for tire wear was on my old GranD Ammit - traded in at 165k miles with the original rear tires still at 7/32 tread, I didn't rotate those tires and so the fronts wore more quickly. When I traded the car at 165k, it was on its second set of front tires that were down around 4/32" - translating into about 90k miles on each set. They were worn evenly across the tread surface. Let's just say they had more air than what GM printed on the door. ;-) It seems to me that tire manufacturers - who only make money when they can sell you new tires to replace those that are worn - are the leading source of scary monochrome photos of bald tires. If increasing pressure really did increase wear, they would want to endorse it in order to preserve their profits. But if higher pressure makes tires last almost twice as long, that will scare the vulcanized pants off them because that means they're selling only half as many tires.

QUOTE (someguy @ Jul 6 2011, 05:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471869
I am aware that many performance cars call for different PSI in front and rear tires and often have different size tires but I didnit know it varied that much. I don't expect myself going much higher than the recommended pressure on the sidewall.
It doesn't have to, but there is room for experimentation. Larger pressure differentials will affect handling. The actual result depends on the car and the tire used, and so I experiment to find what works best for me. The days of wild tire pressures to correct handling problems are far in the past, but as you noted, some performace cars do specify different F/R, and even a whole different set of numbers for driving on the track instead of on the road.

QUOTE (someguy @ Jul 6 2011, 05:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471869
42 psi isn't exactly rock hard actually it rides nicer than I expected. I have only been experimenting for a few days and plan to give it a few weeks before I can make educated statements about how it handles. I have followed the psi on the door frame for almost 20 years now and had suspension related issues anyway on other cars. Not sure this will help or hurt anything in that regard
Yup. The only wear item to consider if you go to Fred Flintstone pressures may be the rubber suspension bumpers. But I'd rather replace them than the wheel rims if I hit a pothole that's deep enough to do damage. The more air the tire has, the less likely you are to lose a wheel rim to a pothole. I've hit some interesting potholes over the years, and never lost a tire or wheel rim. On the other hand, my brother lost the tire (bubbled sidewall) on his AMG Mercedes because of low (placard) pressure. He replaced the tires, aired them up, and hasn't had a problem since - even when hitting some serious craters on unlit portions of neglected NYC interstate pavement.

Other "nevers" for me - Never had a ball joint replacement or tie rod end replacement except for cars I purchased used that needed the work done. I've never had bent/damaged wheel rim or sidewall bubble. I've never had a car lose its alignment (and I do have them checked periodically). I've never had shocks/struts replaced other than due to wear at high mileage (approx 100k miles). My tires last long enough that I tend to trade the cars with the OEM tires (as is the case on the car I traded for the Elantra). Either I lead a charmed life, or increasing tire pressure - within reason - doesn't seem to cause the troubles so often described.

The experience of others may differ, and so this is a great thread to share actual experiences over miles travelled, and the pros and cons we have noted along the way.
 
#14 ·
42psi definitely will take some getting used to. The wife and I went to dinner and on he way home we hit a mini front on the highway with strong crosswinds. The car definitely moves around a bit differently in this situation. There were also a lot of fools on the road this evening but I stuck in the right or center lane and kept at the speed limit or below and all was good.
 
#16 ·
Have you tried 38psi front and 32-35psi rear? Just wondering because of fwd's being front heavy, this should reduce drag and possibly help in controlling turns, less dive. The lower rear pressure might help with grip and reduce skips. I have a similar pressure setup on my modded Neon (35f/32r). Yet to try this on the Elantra as I have 32s all around.

Tire wear has so many varibles involved. Only real worry I'd have is with wear & tear and/or suspension damage. But that should be rather obvious as the ride will let you know, jarring and kicking. Tires like shocks absorbs a lot of these actions. Whereas not only overinflated but also underinflated is important to watch.
 
#17 ·
QUOTE (DMLexpert @ Jul 6 2011, 05:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471888
The only wear item to consider if you go to Fred Flintstone pressures may be the rubber suspension bumpers.
.
.
The experience of others may differ, and so this is a great thread to share actual experiences over miles travelled, and the pros and cons we have noted along the way.
My experience is that my 2008 Santa Fe has been through 3 stabilizer links and 1 ball joint in 65,000 km, approximately half of which was done on overinflated tires. These are known weaknesses on Hyundai products, and anything which increases impact harshnesss can only make it worse. And for what? An extra 0.1 mpg to impress a bunch of strangers on the internet?

We'll revisit this issue in 3 years to see how all you Fred Flinstones made out. :p
 
#18 ·
QUOTE (DMLexpert @ Jul 6 2011, 03:52 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471829
In any FWD car, I always run staggered pressures to keep the rear end planted during cornering and to allow the rear brakes to do more work when stopping.
Roadholding is an often-overlooked point. Many drivers associate high pressure with improved steering response, without realizing that it also degrades road holding when cornering or braking. This is due to the reduced contact patch of an overinflated tire. When I reduced pressure to 32 psi in my Elantra, I noticed slightly duller steering response but also much better stability and grip in addition to the more compliant ride. Definitely worth it.
 
#19 ·
QUOTE (chrisvm31 @ Jul 6 2011, 04:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=471859
I'm very skeptical of this. A brand new set of tires can buy a heck of a lot of gas. Since tires wear considerably faster when tires are over-inflated, I'm wondering how tire life is affected and if the change in pressure and the related savings on gas are even worth it.
I agree with this, over-inflated tires will wear faster in the center and the ride is harsh and the handling will be affected. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think every car suspension is designed and tuned at a specific tire pressure. I always inflate my tires according to the door sticker (32 PSI for the Elantra) on all of my cars and I have never had problems with bad handling and tire wear.
 
#20 ·
QUOTE (Don67 @ Jul 7 2011, 05:37 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=472099
Roadholding is an often-overlooked point. Many drivers associate high pressure with improved steering response, without realizing that it also degrades road holding when cornering or braking. This is due to the reduced contact patch of an overinflated tire. When I reduced pressure to 32 psi in my Elantra, I noticed slightly duller steering response but also much better stability and grip in addition to the more compliant ride. Definitely worth it.
Your car has been designed to handle at 32 PSI that's why Hyundai put a sticker in the door pillar. That's the correct pressure to have in your tires. :)
 
#21 ·
Tried 42/40 this morning, felt a little better with a little less air in the rear. I will see how it feels on the ride home when outside temps are 105 rather than 80.

For those with follow the door recommendations comments I have done this my whole life because we are all taught that way. Right now I'm thinking outside the box and trying something new so if that's all you can contribute to this thread please move on.
 
#23 ·
QUOTE (Xion Nider @ Jul 7 2011, 09:21 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=472187
why would a car maker recommand a tire pressure on a sticker if it does not help the car they sell acheive the MPG they claim or does not help its handling? Everone knows overinflated tires will wear faster in the center. If it's not true that's what I've been taught.

I don't know brother but they used to say that once you switch to synthetic oil you can go back to conventional and conventional oil must be changed at 3K miles. I certainly don't think its a bad idea to follow the manufacturers recommendations but this mod is free and easy to try. Give it a try too or Morpheus would say "take the red pill"
 
#24 ·
I found this on drivers.com

In fact, tire pressure usually lowers itself in winter and raises itself in summer-it requires no action on the part of the motorist apart from keeping the pressure at the level recommended on the sticker that is usually located just inside the door, glove box, or fuel door. Under normal loads, inflate tires according to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, NOT the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall. In any case, one should never exceed this maximum pressure.

Myths abound on correct tire inflation
 
#25 ·
QUOTE (someguy @ Jul 7 2011, 10:32 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=472194
I don't know brother but they used to say that once you switch to synthetic oil you can go back to conventional and conventional oil must be changed at 3K miles. I certainly don't think its a bad idea to follow the manufacturers recommendations but this mod is free and easy to try. Give it a try too or Morpheus would say "take the red pill"
Yeah I could try it for a while and compare my mpg and check the treadwear......