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Weird fan noise under the Glove Compartment

40K views 36 replies 11 participants last post by  Tiger-Heli  
#1 ·
In my 2013 Elantra, sometimes I hear the squeaky fan noise coming from under the glove compartment when i turned on the heat and it sounds like a cricket. It started around 1 week ago.. Any help will be greatly appreciated... Also, rattling problem on the passenger side near around seatbelt.:(
 
#2 ·
In a previous car I had some leaf debris get to the fan and start making noise. I suppose this is a possibility. Not sure on this car, but you might be able to get to the fan by following the manual's instructions for changing the filter. The rattling near the seatbelt might just be the buckle hitting the roof pillar next to it.

Welcome to Hyundai-Forums.

Geoff
 
#4 ·
Thanks Flying Turtle. Is there a way to adjust the seatbelt so that it doesnt make noise? It is irritating at times.
I will try following the manual's instructions for changing the filter. Do you think the is this the issue with the AC Heater Blower Fan Motor ?

Actually the noise from the heater fan is like a bad/non-lubricated ball bearing and it goes away when weather is warm.

@2011MD:
I tried cranking the fan to full speed still the noise is there. Thanks for you help. :)
 
#10 · (Edited)
Amazing how much stuff accumulates in about 10k miles. Really simple 5 minute job.
+1 on "simple." And you're absolutely correct about how much crap that filter blocks from the vents and ducts, preventing their way into the cabin, and YOU! :eek:
 
#7 · (Edited)
I would hope the cabin filter on modern cars would catch the large stuff before it could get to the blower. And also a good reason for not being cheap and leaving out the air filter.
My guess is it might be a bad motor bearing or the cage interfering with something when heated up? Thing to consider, this is a new car so maybe the dealer should correct?
 
#16 ·
Oh actually got this info from the Elantra maintenance guide that was posted on another thread:

Replacement:
1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.
2. Disconnect the connector (A) of the blower motor.
3. Remove the blower motor (A) after loosening the mounting screws.
4. Installation is the reverse order of removal.

Easy peasy
 

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#17 ·
^^ Thanks for posting that diagram, Don. I didn't have anything planned for tomorrow and the weather is supposed to be mid-60's.

Although there is nothing currently wrong with my blower motor, this looks like it could be fun to help pass some time. At least it would keep me out of the wife's hair (and reach!).

Seriously, 3 bolts and drop out. It once took me 5 or 6 hours to replace one in an 86 Volvo 240 DL. I think I took out everything BUT the piston rings trying to dislodge that sucker. Sometimes new IS better!
 
#18 ·
Cool and you're welcome, Rich! I'm curious as to what you'll find, I'd think it should all be pretty clean looking since you have used a cabin filter all along and your E is fairly new.

And you're right, on a lot of old (and even some newer cars) blower motor access was added as an afterthought, and to get to some you have to practically dismantle the dash. Glad ours was given some thought to make it eaiser.
 
#25 · (Edited)
BLOWER MOTOR for 2012 Hyundai Accent|97111-1R000

Not sure how well you can do this, but it's a $112 part MSRP, and it's no more than an hours labor to change it, and it's VERY likely the problem.

I would try to see if the dealer will swap it out for you and hang onto your old one - if the new one fixes it, he submits a warranty claim. If it doesn't, he puts the old one back and keeps trouble-shooting.

(Actually, on modern cars, he probably could replace the blower under warranty and if that doesn't clear the problem, replace something else under warranty, etc.)

(Other option would be to buy and replace the blower yourself and try to get the dealer to re-imburse you under warranty if it fixes the problem - but that is even harder to work out with them - even though that probably makes extra money for him ...)

Or just spend $90 at the link above and be done with it (if that was the problem), and not worry about the warranty - but that would be your last resort.
 
#26 ·
I went to the dealer for the regarding this issue on Saturday. Luckily blower motor did made noise when dealer was inspecting but it wasn't when I was riding it to the dealer. Hahaha.. Dealer identified the problem and ordered the new part. I am waiting for the callback from the dealer. He said the motor will arrive on Wed or Thursday. Let see how it goes...
 
#29 ·
I would expect some amount of noise level emanating from the housing. The fan does make noise as the blades go about doing their job moving air thru the system. But it shouldn't be annoying. Well, poor choice of word: annoying. What annoys some folks doesn't bother others at all.
 
#30 ·
It is possible that the motor is misaligned causing blower wheel contact with the housing. The blower wheel also could be not installed properly to the motor shaft. Another cause is a paper, tag or rubbish inside of the blower housing.

Whatever the reason, call the dealer and make the report.
 
#31 ·
+1 what silvergls said.

If you have to, get the salesman to show you several other Elantras on the lot. If they all make the same noise as yours, I would say you are being overly picky (or they ALL are mis-aligned, but ...). If they are all quieter than yours, ask the service writer why yours doesn't sounds louder than the others if yours is normal.
 
#32 · (Edited)
^^^ There you go! Simplicity at its finest!

And as Silvergls can allude to (being a HVAC professional), there is an optimal location for that blade to be mounted onto the blower motor's shaft. I don't know if this is a pre-assembled blower unit or if the blade is removed from the old motor and reattached onto the new one. Ideally, the blades are located and locked down onto the shaft so that they maximize the air flow efficiency through the scroll side of that blower housing.

Go outside and look at your home's condenser unit if you need better understanding. There's a motor attached (usually to the grill's top) and the fan blade mounted to that motor shaft is preset at the factory using a go/no go fixture...designed to maximize the air flow for cooling the condenser fan and keeping the compressor from working itself to death and overheating. It's the same for the blower's hamster-looking wheel inside your home's evaporating unit. Proper mounting distance. And I'm not going to bring up fan balance. But, I digress. Again! One of my cerebral design flaws.