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Put a pressure gauge on the ports you now have venting to atmosphere and tell us what pressures they are exerting please.
You would need a pressure differential gauge. Might be a couple 1/10s inches of water.....
 

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Discussion starter · #42 ·
I have not tested the pressure as it would be very low/minimal & need something accurate for such low pressures
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
7k strong venting

7k miles strong venting pcv and breather to atmosphere on my Tucson 1.6t
and 40k miles strong venting pcv and breather to atmosphere on my Veloster Turbo

clean intake, clean internals, clean throttle body clean Intercooler! power gain! STOKED!
 
7k miles strong venting pcv and breather to atmosphere on my Tucson 1.6t
and 40k miles strong venting pcv and breather to atmosphere on my Veloster Turbo

clean intake, clean internals, clean throttle body clean Intercooler! power gain! STOKED!
How is your oil holding up? What kind do you use and when do you change it?
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
How is your oil holding up? What kind do you use and when do you change it?
oil is great & have only used Pennzoil ULTRA platinum 5w-30

oil change intervals every 3k miles religiously
 
oil is great & have only used Pennzoil ULTRA platinum 5w-30

oil change intervals every 3k miles religiously
I just ordred Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 yesterday and going to switching from Mobil One.

I thought oil change interval every 7,500 miles? Full synthetic oil should be last longer than regular motor oil.
 
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Discussion starter · #47 ·
I just ordred Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 yesterday and going to switching from Mobil One.

I thought oil change interval every 7,500 miles? Full synthetic oil should be last longer than regular motor oil.
good move on the switch!

regardless of venting or not, 3000 miles minimum or 3500 miles maximum per oil change intervals.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
2goofed you have screwed up big time with your mods and I have no further interest in your idiotic ideas. I hope the EPA pull your car over.
this guy never responded with any FACTS lol smh epa bullshit!!! here are some FACTS-

A list of things you can do to minimize LSPI conditions:

Reduce carbon buildup mechanically - Use high-quality baffled catch cans (with additional stainless media if viable) on BOTH the PCV and breather outlets (OR VENT TO ATMOSPHERE); GrimmSpeed-type air/oil separators are sketchy

Reduce carbon buildup chemically - Apply CERMA engine treatment and turbo (nano) treatment

Use a PAO-based (Group IV) or ester-based (Group V) synthetic oil - There are exceptions, such as Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, which is a Group III (natural gas) base oil

Avoid using an extended service interval oil - longer intervals mean higher concentration of additives; use oils low in calcium-based (detergent) additives which are the worst offenders for producing LSPI events; high zinc additives require higher phosphorus content to neutralize the LSPI-inducing effects of zinc; high amounts of molybdenum additives are ok; new oils with more magnesium to replace or equal calcium as detergents are on the horizon

Change your oil & filter every 3000-3500 miles - fuel dilution (fuel/oil mixture) from piston ring blowby is another significant contributor to LSPI events

Use the highest octane fuel possible - 93 (AKI); optional - add E-85 to create a higher ethanol blend (further increases octane); no more than E-40 (~99 AKI)

Use a periodic (every 3000 miles) fuel treatment if your fuel is not top-tier (i.e., containing additives) - Techroline, CERMA fuel treatment, Red Line fuel treatment, AMSOIL fuel treatment, etc.

(Optional but highly recommended) Use a water/alcohol injection (WAI) system; aka meth injection

(Optional) Get aftermarket pistons with ceramic-coated crowns plus gapless piston top rings (reduces hot spots and fuel dilution)
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
How is your oil holding up? What kind do you use and when do you change it?
furthermore, avoid calcium-based (detergent) oil additives and only use PAO-based or ester-based oils with just enough zinc/phosphorus (anti-wear) and molybdenum (friction modifier) additives to get you to your next oil change with a positive total base number (TBN) value (get your oil tested by BlackStone or similar labs). If your TBN value drops to 0, LSPI event probability increases substantially.

Exhaust gas can also cause carbon deposits in the combustion chamber when GDI scavenging is done. This is why top tier fuels and routine fuel treatments are Hyundai-recommended. Increased ethanol content in fuel (however unpopular) will result in more thorough combustion, reduced exhaust emissions and less carbon deposits as a result. Ethanol also increases octane which lowers the chance of LSPI events.

Anti-LSPI oil recommendation: Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 (Group III stock, derived from natural gas, will be ILSAC GF-6-compliant)

Other oil recommendations:

RedLine 5W-40 or 5W-30 (Ester)Cerma 5W-40 or 5W-30 (PAO)Cerma X 5W-40 or 5W-30 (PAO)AMSOIL Signature 5W-30 (PAO)Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 or 5W-30 (Ester)AMSOIL Euro Formula Low-SAPS 5W-30 (non-PAO; they have mid- and high-SAPS formulas, but contribute more non-carbon deposits and wreck catalytic converters)Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 (non-PAO, designed for diesel engines, but low levels of calcium and very good test reports) - this oil is known to foam under race conditions, so avoid if you run your engine to redline for extended sessions.Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 (non-PAO) - can be used in a pinch and can be found in nearly all auto parts chains; do not run for more than 3000 miles.

Monitoring/Logging: If you have an Android device, buy Torque Pro ($4.95) and get the "Advanced EX for Hyundai" plugin ($4.99). There are PIDs that can be used to monitor knock retard for each cylinder:

[HADV] Knock Ret Cyl 1[HADV] Knock Ret Cyl 2[HADV] Knock Ret Cyl 3[HADV] Knock Ret Cyl 4
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
20k strong on my 17' Tucson & 91k strong on my 16' Veloster Turbo venting 3 ports to atmosphere with nothing but cleanliness & success!

pcv vented
breather vented
oil cap (Tracy Lewis CSS) vented

Oil changes at 3000 miles minimum, 3500 miles maximum with PUP 5w30 religiously with 91 octane only.
 
On the valve cover are a breather and PCV. The breather transfers nasty vapors into the intake and charge pipe system pre turbo while the PCV leads to the intake manifold. Neither one of these are good scenarios and lead to many known issues especially for our T-GDi.

Many I see put catch cans on one or both of these lines to filter the nasty vapors out before returning to the air stream at some point. So the efficiency of the can will determine how much is going back through your motor. Since no can setup will be near 100% efficient leads me to a solution.

Venting both lines to atmosphere or to a catch can/breather can without intake hookup..... This ensures 0 vapors will return to the intake tract to cause any cons unlike other setups. Depending on if you use cans or not to filter vapors will only determine how environmentally friendly you are.Vapors aren't drawn through the breather. The breather is there to allow fresh air into the crank case. It's passing that to the CC through the valve cover because it's convenient to do it that way.

The PCV side is drawing vapor from the valve cover (CC) and letting it flow to the intake manifold under vacuum because the valve cover has will have higher pressure than the vacuum in the IM under normal driving and idle. Once you go into boost the PCV system locks up via the PCV (Valve) shutting so that the CC doesn't get pressurized by the boost pressure coming from the IM. Because it's closed up pressure does build in the CC while your under hard throttle but as soon as you release it goes back to normal. The Breather will blow out some vapor during this transition.

The oil/gas that accumulates in a breather OCC is because of this brief blow off that happens through the breather. If you never drive hard the breather OCC would be empty all the time.

I can go further, but I'll wait for a rebuttal. And provide numbers and facts when responding. :)

Cheers
You have just won the idiotic engineer of the year award. You should be proud.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
You have just won the idiotic engineer of the year award. You should be proud.
says the retired man who lost his mind in his stated signature. do you have any input other than insults that do nothing for the forum old man?
 
says the retired man who lost his mind in his stated signature. do you have any input other than insults that do nothing for the forum old man?
Well I could get smart with you but then we would have nothing in common .....so let me see if I can be simple......Sorry.....Even without my mind I don't think I can be simple enough that you could understand......Carry on..
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Well I could get smart with you but then we would have nothing in common .....so let me see if I can be simple......Sorry.....Even without my mind I don't think I can be simple enough that you could understand......Carry on..
you could get smart & reply with some informative information (if you had any), but instead you initially started with an insult (being the grown retired man you are) & now you have nothing to say?

you carry on old man, it's a forum.
 
Anyone here old enough to remember when cars had road draft tubes and the middle of road lanes were darkened and oily? (before my time, actually)
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Anyone here old enough to remember when cars had road draft tubes and the middle of road lanes were darkened and oily?
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You are dating me now.......NO I DON'T WANT TO GO OUT...>:D
Some of the things from our past make me wonder why I ever wanted to be an engineer,
 
And they had oil bath air cleaners then too. I was just a kid I swear.....
 
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