With out hearing it, I can say for sure that 3.8L Lambda does not have hydraulic tappets,, Hyundai calls them MLA, "Mechanical Lash Adjuster".... It is a bucket on top of valve that is of "X" thickness to get desired clearance for valve adjust

 

Oh the joy of this. Sounds like either the MLA is worn, the valve is sticking slightly when cold, or it's not getting enough oil up there when cold.. Shaking my head.. Sounds expensive. :frown:

 

There has been rare issue where top of valve has flatten/mushroomed,, leaving excessive valve lash..

You'll have to go in with feelr gauge and verify valve adjust on all the valves and see if you find one out of range (loose/wide gap)

 

That should be fairly easy to check at least, since I've determined it is one of the 'front bank' valves, near the oil filler cap.. And as a plus, I need to replace that valve cover gasket anyway..

 

What kind of oil and weight are you using? How many miles on the oil? Does it do this with new oil?

 

That's my first suspicion.. it's "pre-purchase used car dealer oil change" oil, I will be changing it next week - the oil has just under 3K on it but I have no idea what the viscosity or type is, dealer didn't leave a sticker or anything. I will see if, hopefully, it goes away when I put fresh oil (I want to use full Synthetic) and a Hyundai filter, hopefully this weekend.

 

Just a shot in the dark, but I wonder if the timing chain tensors have gotten weak and/or the chain has stretched.

 

I sure hope not! I'm not yet ready for a major repair on it.. I've only had the car for a little less than 3K miles. It doesn't lack for performance at all, engine always runs smooth - even when there's the valve tappet noise, sounds like just one tappet - until it's warmed up, then no noise.. I'll keep that in mind though if the 'cheap' fixes don't work..

 

My Accent would give the tapping noise when the oil was near the time (3k miles) to change when using some lower quality oils. Since switching to Mobil 1 0w20 it no longer does. Even at 10k miles on the oil.

 

I had same sound at 128K (2006 Azera Limited) . Had Oil service with 5W30 and noise was less pronounced, but intermittently comes back, also, I noticed that when I switch off the engine, it sometimes gives a loud Clinking noise, as if something is not timed. It always seems to happen when turning off engine while not depressing brake pedal. Wondering if Tapetting noise is related to my Accelerator pedal Sensor (it seems not working at the moment, had it already replaced once around 80K- Symptoms of sensor inoperative, is a slower response to accelleration) at same time however, MPG got better with about 2mpg I guess engine acts slower and consumes less fuel this way, bypassing sensor. I also heard about a $90 aftermarket device called WindBooster that can change the sensor behavior from economy to Sport by just plugging it in between pedal connector and connector cable .
Will have sound checked by Mechanic at next Sheduled Service. Getting 22mpg city currently with a very light foot. My spouse has a heavier foot, and when sensor is active, she gets closer to 18mpg. Best Highway at Legal speed limits is around 26 mpg.

ps: I love the "sleeper' aspect of the Azera. Leaving a V8 mustang in your rear mirror when he tried to sprint after traffic light stop.

 

I have almost 10k miles on my current 0w20 M1 EP. I noticed a bit of tapping last night when I started the engine. Hyundais way of saying the oil needs changed? This is on my Accent.

 

If the Accent has a GDI engine, 10k, even on synthetic is stretching oil interval change.

FYI - Started up Azera this morning after oil change yesterday. No rattle. I'm now officially a Mag1 0w20 fan boy. :hyper:

 

MC is not a GDI motor. .I've been going 7500m on the 0w20 M1 AFE. The 0w20 M1 EP is formulated for longer oil drains.

 

No oil through the filter and the engine would soon seize up. If it's over filled then drain some out. I use a very thin long length of clear tubing that will fit into the dipstick housing. Then start a siphon with warm oil and let it slowly lower the oil level.

 

I just got through doing it the old-fashioned way, I was underneath the car draining the excess into a drain pan.. LOL. I may need to get the tubing and siphon for future, would be a whole lot easier! Apparently for some reason my car only holds 5 quarts.. Well I now have a spare quart

 

Unscrew filter cap first when doing oil change and leave it sit. Then remove oil drain plug and let drain.

Re-install drain plug, then finish with filter replacement.. add maybe 5qt oil, see that oil on dipstick in the zone, start engine for 10-15 second, shut off.. now check oil level and add to full mark with needed oil.

 

Noise is still there

Update: Regardless of oil being too full or the right level, the tappet noise is still there until the car is driven about 5-10 miles, even with the Synthetic 0W-20..

 

BTW here is a OEM filter with 9950 miles on it.

 

BTW here is a OEM filter with 9950 miles on it.

That looks about like what the filter I replaced looked like. Obviously mine wasn't replaced at the car dealer's oil change. When I checked the new one, it was so clean it almost didn't look like oil had been through it yet.. LOL Although the inside of the canister was nice and oily..

 

Cam chain tensioner(s) are at their max or failed, or the plastic guides are worn out, or cam chain is stretched past what the tensioner can take up. While these are noted as "lifetime" parts (just like the trans fluid) - please remember that a lifetime to Hyundai means 100,000 miles. Not eternity.

 

Sounds like a nice, expensive, major repalr.

 

Good afternoon..

As I have been researching this issue further, I have come across something that I would not have thought of. This being the ZDDP levels in the engine oil. From what I can tell, the Lambda valvetrain's 'buckets' make something of a flat-tappet. I have read that engines that use this configuration need oil with higher ZDDP levels to help prevent premature wear of the flat surfaces, and scuffing. Probably too late for my ticking valve bucket - but worth pondering for future. It seems that oil manufacturers are seeking to keep reducing ZDDP levels in the oil. Could this be a contributing issue? Just curious what your thoughts are. Hope you guys won't beat me up too much for this.

Thanks!

 

This use to be true back in the 70's and 80's. The metal alloys have really improved today though. The last three cars I had used buckets but they had shims on them. You took out the shims and measured them to figure out the new shim.

But even at 100k miles seldom was there much wear in the shims. ZDDP is being reduced due to the cat fouling problems it causes. But then again you have to be burning oil for that to happen.

You can get a ZDDP additive if you want.

ZDDPlus | Maintain proper ZDDP levels in your engine

 

My 07 Azera had the cold tap noise since 30k. I did some research, talked to some mechanics, and was told not to really worry about. It's the design. I've only ever used Hyundai oil filters and Castrol full synthetic. a light weight during the winter and a heavier weight during the summer. Often it's what's available at the time.

I now have 212,000 miles on it. It still does it for the first 15 seconds or so and I don't drive it hard until it goes away.

Stop worrying about it

 

Have 113,000 on my 07. Nothing has gone wrong. Have you ever replaced the starter, alternator or anything else major? Thinking of replacing the radiator hoses at the next service, although Mechanic says they look fine. This car has been amazing!

 

Sooner or later you have to face facts that the car is 10 years old with 140K+ miles. As the weather gets colder, we all tend to make a little more noise in the winter mornings...regardless of miles or year.

243,700+ New England miles on my '07 LTD and still diggin' it since it was new.

Cheers,
:beer:

 

So much for not getting beat up for this.. :frown:

Alright gentlemen.. I will stop "whining" and "face the facts".

Done.

 

And, with that stress out of the way, you'll probably live longer. :grin2:

 

I have the same tappet noise near the oil filter location.
It was less when the car was new. Louder now at 57K miles.
Did you fix yours yourself or have it repaired?

 

Valve Lifter is worth a try. 1 quirt added to the oil through cap and drive for a week or two and see if the tapping noise goes. Do this just after oil change

 

I have the same noise on my 08. Just rolled.over 47k miles. Been doing it since late fall. I let it run for a min or 2 and just drive at a steady calm pace.

 

Wow, good to see some high mileage on these older Azeras.

200,000 on my 06.

Definitely have more pronounced noise on cold start ups these past few unusual cold weather we have had here.

I guess I won't worry too much about it either.

 

my 2006 had similar noise around 128K. Had Oil replacement went from W20 to W30. Noise Gone.

 

repair valve tappit sound

Dealer told me it was not a problem. Until the car reached 100k miles and no longer on warranty, they said it would cost $1800.00 to replace the timing chain, tensioners, guides, and water pump while they were in there. I got upset and had a local shop do it for $1700.00. The sound is still there. Why couldn't the dealer of all people find the problem. I'm looking at the valve tappet now that you mentioned it. Wish I saw this article 2 weeks ago.

 

I have 2007 azera limited and i have the exact problem

 

my 2006 Azera Limited with 3.8L V6 is making a valve tappet noise when cold - it goes away when the car is driven a few minutes.

'06 Azera Limited; 141k miles; same issue. After much initial fretting, subsequent research had an alleviating effect: I've learned to live with it as a common lament among owners of the Loverly Lambda.

"Lambda, the sheepish lion; Lambda, there's no denyin'..."

The issue has been covered in this very forum: It seems our two-thousand-aught generation Lambda V6's need periodic valve lash adjustments--a hurty-expensive job to hire out. And a daunting chore for the determined shadetree mechanic, and potentially valve-destroying (the Lambda is an interference engine) hemorrhage for the novice cheapskate with a metric socket set.

In the meanwhiles, we ameliorate the issue somewhat by using synthetic oil of modestly higher viscosity, both when cold and hot.