I believe the resistor reduces the voltage so fan doesn't reach it full potential

Looks like you have already modified the wiring to suit the new fan. So why not just modify it further and completely bypass the fan resistor. No resistor = no voltage reduction.

 

I been watching few videos on how to but wasn't really sure if It was possible with this set up, could you shed some light greatly appreciated 👍

 

Remove the resistor completely?

 

You don't necessarily need to physically remove it. But linking the 3 wires will electrically bypass it. If the resistor is limiting the fan speed as you suspect, bypassing the resistor will cure the problem.

 

I guess I'm not picturing it in my head how to connect those 🤯

 

It would be nice if you could get 3 of those 9.5mm male terminals that are on the resistor. Then you could make up a little link wire that would simply attach to the resistor harness connector. But those are hard to find.

The alternative is to open the harness. Remove a little insulation from each of the three wires, maybe an inch or two. Then wrap another wire around the bare section of the three wires in the harness. That way you could simply remove the wrapping wire and insulate the three harness wires again if you don't get the desired result. If you do get the result your looking for, solder the three wires together to make the connection permanent.

 

I wasn't sure if I would use the low or high side and what function it would have when running AC

 

If you bypass the resistor there is no low side. Just high, which is what you said you wanted.

 

Always appreciated your input greatly, I've installed many things but when it comes to this I'm clueless on overriding things, awareness not to damage anything else, i would like to try to eliminate the resistor and still keep the harness and run thru it, just need to see what that would look like i guess on a diagram.

 

I did some digging today and i tested both positive leading to resistor, right side blue thin wire turns fan on at 194° off at 185° then also turns on when AC is engaged, the left side thick white wire i haven't been able to engage with no power, where/when does the power from white wire left side engage? Or how to engage it? This is all bypassing the resistor

 

I believe i have found the culprit, looking at older thread of a 2012 sonata relay behind the bumper driver headlight, how do I even begin to clean 🤦

 

On my Genesis Coupe 2LT I have a manual fan controller that has the thermo probe inserted in the upper radiator hose near the engine. This I use to control the fan for engine temp. Have it set at 200F on 190F off but it seldom runs over 187F normally, usually 183F with no load and cool temps.

The switch is wired into the high speed fan relay coil ground. So it grounds the coil. I also have a led that is wired hot when engine relay is on and it shows when the fan is running. This goes to the same ground. If you wanted to you could also use the same ground and a manual switch inside to turn on the relay anytime the key is in run and you turned on the switch.

 

Thanks for the input that how i have my transmission cooler fan wired, I was just looking to keep factory fan set up and just eliminate the resistor, til i found the other issue today im going to see if I can find the relay and connector this one is really bad, does anyone know the difference of the factory relay or is it just a basic relay?
Relay # KG8JR-72r .....FH5S

 

I'd just bypass the resistor as suggested and you will get maximum fan with factory programming. On at 204F and off at 194F for the low speed. But you will be running the high speed or full voltage motor.

As far as I know Hyundai does not use the high speed fan for engine cooling. At least on my ancient cars. Ford did the same stupid thing back in the day....

 

That's my confusion on the 3 inputs to the resistor its low, high and ground on the bottom, I'm just using the low side, thin blue wire, high side is thick white wire, so would it spin a lot faster?

 

Should be the same as this.

 

Ok i believe the low side is 40 amp and high side is 60 amp does the aftermarket relay have to match that? I see the Hyundai relay has larger copper connectors, very similar to pics attached, I will clean the one i have to check the numbers on each connector, appreciate all the input 😎👍

 

does the aftermarket relay have to match that?

I'm not sure what you mean by that. A relay doesn't have a low and high side.
Regardless, the relay shown in your photos will be fine for this application.

 

Relays have and amp rating. So match the fuse value at a minimum.

 

That's the relay cleaned off, i believe the white is to the connector to fan , red i believe from fuse box, the other 2 I'm not sure, I was just wondering could the white and red be connected in stead of putting relay?

 

I was just wondering could the white and red be connected in stead of putting relay?

No.

The relay is used to control when the fan is to be switched on and off. If you connected the red and white wires together the fan would run continuously. Even if the engine and ignition were switched off.

 

Everything is running perfectly since I removed the resistor 185 -195°

 

Everything is running perfectly since I removed the resistor 185 -195°

Glad I was able to help.

 

Glad I was able to help.

quick

Glad I was able to help.

quick question i would like to know what is the pink thin wire and thin orange come from, i have searched but not finding or lining up what shows on the diagram provided for hi relay

 

quick question i would like to know what is the pink thin wire and thin orange come from

The thin wires are the relay control circuit. One of them is a 12V power supply for the relay coil, that will come from the engine fusebox. The other is a ground side control signal, that comes from the engine ECU. If you want to know which wire is which...
remove the relay,
switch the ignition on,
then measure the voltage on each wire.
The 12V power supply wire will have, you guessed it, 12Volts. The control wire will have about 3.5Volts.

 

getting different diagrams and indication for amperage and relay/HI 1st pic from online other 2 my 2.0T.....i know 2.4 is totally different. im looking to know what triggers the relay and from what signal is getting, i trying to get a understanding and function appreciate you guys

 

wires to HI fan relay red thick wire from fuse box to #87 relay, white thick wire to fan HI from relay #30, thin pink from? to #85 relay, thin dark orange from? to #86 relay

 

If you eliminate the resistor won't that damage the smaller low speed relay sense you are running the fan at high speed all the time?

 

so far everything is running fine, looks like 13.6V from lo/relay and 14V Hi relay, Im still trying to figure how it functions, most popular cars have this performance upgrade already figured out for them, as direct bolt on, our Sonata 2.0T doesn't have that option only few direct bolt-ons are available. But like for Genesis has many bolt ons from Mishimoto, ans many other vendors.

 

Yeah i fixed the bad relay and there's power flowing thru it now, the white wire has 14V now, I also tested it and when I turn the AC switch on and off so does the power from that newly repaired Relay, but i was still wondering could that be connected now to the fan wire which I have been using that blue wire that runs both when the engine reaches 195° the fan comes on, then off at 185° automatically... but then it also comes on when i turn AC on, which i originally thought it wouldn't.

 

Thank for the help 😎👍

 

I first originally thought one wire was for normal engine cooling temperatures and the second was for when AC is activated. Just like vehicles with 2 fans one for basic engine cooling and the other For when AC is activated...

 

How exactly did you do this? Looking to run this on Pikes Peak in Colorado one day but I’m going to build the engine with lap 3 parts and bolt ons, and get all kinds of suspension braces. Also how do I fit the trans cooler as well and wire that?

 

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