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Transmission Fluid Change @ 60k Miles

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14K views 29 replies 19 participants last post by  Dog Patch Steve  
#1 ·
The dealership is telling me that I need to have my transmission fluid changed on my 2013 Elantra at 60k miles and is charging a boat load to do it. I've looked at the manual and it doesn't show it as needing that done at 60k miles except under severe conditions. The maintenance log just says have it done every 60k miles and doesn't make mention of weather it's for severe or normal conditions. If I have to get it done, I'm definitely shopping around at other car service companies. Any advice will be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Doesn't the fluid look and/or smell burnt?


I hate flushes, they usually are followed by a broken tranny.
 
#4 ·
Hard to smell if one does not have a dipstick. Not sure if really required to maintain the warranty but at 60,000 probably a good idea. Price should be 125-175 range for a flush, under 100 for a drain and fill. The fluid cost is a key ingredient with the dealer, ask how much they are charging per quart of the stuff? If you go elsewhere finding the compatable fluid is a must.
 
#5 ·
I have an 05 Santa Fe and my tranny failed at 44,000. I had the service done by my local shop and saved a few $$'s by having them do it rather than my dealer. It wasn't worth it.....the dealership put me off almost 2 weeks before they finally ok'd the repair as being warrantied. If your car is under the factory warranty let them do the service that way they can't say it wasn't properly done and if something does happen its in Hyundais computer as being serviced by the dealership.
 
#6 ·
How much are they charging? The manual is a little confusing about this since it says to exchange every 60K for severe service then under normal service I think it says to just check the fluid at 120K. I have to go back and check the manual since its been a while.

It makes it tougher since our car has no dipstick so its not easy to check fluid. I would probably get mine done at 60K/5 years but I had temp sensor replaced around 30K and they removed and replaced fluid then so I will probably wait till 90K.
 
#8 ·
$250 is a bit high for transmission but not bad. I would call around if you have a few dealers in the area.

You can drain and flush coolant at home for about $25. You just need coolant, a few gallons of distilled water and time. I will be doing mine at the 5/60 mark.
 
#9 ·
Don't do a flush. If the fluid is OK, drain and fill is sufficient. Shouldn't be more than $60 or so.

Like sbr711 said, "all a flush does is flush the cash from your wallet"
 
#13 ·
MD 6 speeder A/T... hopefully you can get a MIL with a 0711/12/13 DTC,,, and get your ATF changed for FREE within the 5yr/60 warranty period, along with replacement of A/T wire harness-ATF temp sensor..

Fluid alone is $17.50/qt (SP4-M).. depending on long they leave it sit to drain, I been averaging a little over 5qt to refill..

We drain-refill coolant every 30,, clean coolant wont have time to start any funny stuff.
 
#16 ·
We did a tranny drain and fill at 30k on our 2013 Elantra at a friend's Nissan shop. The fluid looked fine, but smelled really nasty, as did the new fluid. So we decided to do 60k intervals in the future. Used Valvoline synthetic ATF compatible with Hyundai fluid, and it was NOT the high mileage version.
 
#18 ·
does anybody READ their maintenance log? should be one in every packet when you get your car. unless the dealer removes it because they dont want you to know what hyundai recommends. so, looking at our 2016 log, it says replace every 60k FOR SERVICE SEVERE. if normal, no check, no service required. even at 150k, which is the limit of our log. to compare, log also says oil and filter every 3750/6mo if SERVICE SEVERE. if not, then every 7k/12 mo. on another note, i have documented for perpetuity with hyundai that our cars are NORMAL service. hyundai does have a way to classify service as either normal or severe. example-dealer, "all cars in this area are service severe." me, "no they aint." dlr, yes they is. me, check hyundai case nr xxxxx on your computer. dlr-oh, well, i guess not.
 
#19 ·
At 150,000 miles, transmission fluid is pink/brown under non-severe use. The problem is that there is no dip stick to check the fluid color. Thus, it's best practice to change it earlier than too late.

The term "severe service" has no useful definition. The dealer said my car, which is used for mostly local shopping and pickups, is severe usage and should be changed after 6 months. After 5,000 miles/6 mos. the engine oil looked fine.
 
#22 ·
hey, ima only posting what the maintenance log says. in print. what you do is your business. our cars are registered service normal. so we follow the 12/7500. we dont drive that much, so oil changes are yearly. synthetic only, send off a sample to blackstone. so far, nothing unusual, and it always comes back that even the 12/7500 could be extended. but for warranty purposes, we follow the maintenance log
 
#23 ·
A drain and fill at 60k is highly recommended, it’s literally part of the 60k service. You can interpret your vehicle usage how you like, but many manufacturers consider all of north america to be severe duty. It’s a small amount of money to pay now to avoid buying an entire transmission when you’re slightly out of warranty. Make sure its a drain and fill NOT a flush.
 
#26 ·
No Dipstick?? & it was implied the filler port may be difficult to get open. & it needs to be level upon fill with the drain port open (& this vehicle is so low to the ground).... appears to be a PITA

I had this issue on the Saturn VUE, Honda transmission, yet they used a standard GM service interval of 100K (not good). I had gear hunting & juddering at 75K. Hondas interval is 50K my fluid was very dark.
I did 3 drain & fills (driving in between for a week) which displaced about 90% of the original fluid), thern a drain & fill every 25K.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Still sounds like a PITA, a breaker arm will not knock it off of them?

I could ramp the VUE, it actually helped and I had to fill via the dipstick as the filler cap to the lower read of the bay under a fuse box was nearly impossible to get leverage on... Seized itself in the salt air too.

Barring the sized drain I had to first use a breaker arm on the first time I did it. It wasn't too bad a job just a bit slower filling via the dipstick.