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Tranny Stuck In Third?

43K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  robertk64  
#1 ·
For the second time the tranny got stuck in third for me today. Last time my wife thinks it was in second, but I think it was probably actually third because it must have been the failsafe mode from how it acted.

The car just kicked us really hard in the a$$ and then the check engine light came on. For the rest of the ride it wasn't shifting. It accelerated slowly (but smoothly) and was only operating in reasonable RPM ranges from like 30-50MPH or so. Then comes the weird part...

We parked it, shut it off, and restarted the engine. The check engine light went out and it drove almost totally normally. Still a tiny bit shaky, but no big jerks and it seemed to use all its gears again (though we didn't take a highway so OD wasn't actually tested).

What I wonder is... is that trouble code still stored? We have like 98500 on that car now so the powertrain warranty is about to expire any week. The last time this happened when my wife was driving it while I was at work but it sounds like the same problem from her description. That was a couple of months ago... I can't afford to wait to recreate the issue. That huge kick can't be good for the tranny's internals and I want whatever's wrong fixed under warranty since I'm still (just barely) under the wire. We got the tranny flushed and fresh oil in it just a few months ago (might have actually been right *after* the last time it did this because I remember hoping that that service would fix its odd shifting and it pretty much had until today).

Anyway, has anyone has this problem, and what did it take to fix it? I only have a month or so to get this taken care of under warranty...
 
#3 ·
I'm having the same problem, I checked the computer and code P1732 popped up...read up on it and it says that when the auto transmission control relay fails, the car goes into a "safe" mode and only lets the transmission switch up to 3rd gear, which mine did...it calls to replace this part, I found it online when I did a search for hyundai auto parts, and it costs like $7 bucks and change not including shipping...if you guys need the part # its 95445-39052...good-luck!! :thumbsup:
 
#4 ·
Dear NES,

Get your car to the dealer very soon! the CEL code is stored unless your ECU log has been cleared (has not cleared unless you or the dealer deliberately cleared it).

This is likely a powertrain fault, and since you still have your powertrain warranty for 1500 miles, get your car to the dealer! They can run a SCAN tool diagnostic on the transmission and get a written printout on the full performance of the AT. Almost idiot proof as the report tells the mechanic exactly what needs replacing.

Byron
 
#5 ·
so I ended up just paying the dealer to replace the speed sensor because I don't really have the time to figure it out right now and it was only 1.5 hours labor (which is BS from what I've heard as most people can change it in closer to 30min and they called me in under an hour to say come pick it up.....)

Anyway... the problem happened again today so I called the dealer and plan to bring it back again Friday morning to have them look at it. Obviously I'm over 100k now but the problem was reported with under 100k on the tranny so if the problem does turn out to be powertrain they'll fix it or hear from my lawyer. And if they claim it's the speed sensor I guess they'll just have to put another one in at no charge as they obviously got a defective one from the factory.

I'm NOT signing the paper agreeing to pay the diagnostic fee, that's for sure.

Any opinions on what's going on? Did they actually replace it or not? The problem occurred a month apart last time, so it's not that strange that it tok 2 months to happen again... I just know that at minimum I want a refund for what I paid last time but I'd really rather just have the car fixed correctly. ARGH!!
 
#6 ·
Dear NESTer,

What warranty does the dealer offer on work they perform? Most dealers give you at least 30 days on their own work, or why bother going to the dealer.

Don't pay for a diagnostic. The fault was already reported and recorded...now the dealer just has to fix their own failed work.

Since you paid before, you should not have to pay any more for the same defect. If they say a different part is needed, your answer is sure you can replace under the warranty for the original fault, which was not properly repaired earlier.

Byron
 
#7 ·
There are actually several speed sensors that could cause the transmission to go into "limp home mode" (i.e., get stuck in 3rd gear). There are two speed sensors on the transmission- the input speed and output speed sensors, plus there is the crankshaft position sensor (which meaures engine speed) and there is a wheel speed sensor. If the wheel speed sensor failed, though, the speedometer wouldn't work. But if any of those disagrees with the others, it could go into limp home mode. The dealer may have changed out one of the sensors but not the one that was messed up. Also, there is a chance the problem is in the wire harness and the sensor intermittently gets disconnected.

Don't assume the dealer is ripping you off, but rather work with them to try to "help" you. I've found that when I put it into terms like that, they are more willing to take care of me (it's easier to be nice to someone who's nice to you). I also try asking them to put themselves in my shoes, or imagine this is his wife/girlfriend's car, that kind of thing. Get a little sympathy out of people and they tend to be more helpful. If you treat them like you think they're ripping you off, they will get insulted and not want to help.
 
#8 ·
Well the dealer is no help. They say the codes currently in there aren't related to the sensor they replaced. So I need to find out what's wrong and see if I can do it myself. I don't feel like having to pay them every few months to replace another sensor. I understand they're all well-used and are going to fail eventually, but this car can't become a money pit...

The codes currently in (he wrote them down, hopefully accurately) are:

P0708
P0715
P0455
P1535

He said one is loose gas cap which I don't really care about right now... anyone have a list or a link to a list? I did a quick google and these codes weren't on any of the first few pages I looked at... will keep looking but I was hoping someone else would know. :)
 
#9 ·
P0455 is the one for the evap system that they are saying is the fuel cap (although other things can cause that code as well).

If you're going to try to work this yourself, I suggest getting a username and password on Hyundai's online service manual system. I have directions on how to register and navigate here.

P0455 = EVAP Emission Control System - Large Leak. Could be the fuel cap but might also be a leaky hose in your EVAP system.
P0708 = Transaxle Range Switch Short Circuit.
P0715 = Input Speed Sensor (which MIGHT BE the part they replaced).
P1535 = couldn't find it in Hyundai's manual, but according to this site, it means Evaporator Temperature Sensor High Voltage (for the AC).