Timing chains are designed to the lifetime for the motor. Unless you hear it getting noisy from being stretched, it should last you.

I'm sure someone will chime in if that's not correct for yours.

 

I'll just add that chains don't like dirty oil.

 

I'll vote for regular oil changes anyday. The chain in the 1.7 is the same as the 1.6 as well, could be others too in the same generation so you could possibly gather evidence from those as well.

I have a D4FB with about 250000k and the timing gear is noiser now than at 140000K but nothing horrendous, maybe some guide noise as well.

I got another at 400000k and it's more clunky and rattly at start up, idle but when driven hums along

I've read of one instance with a destroyed motor and chain snap approaching 300000k.

Likely also how it's driven , too.

There's 2 chains as well and a special tool is needed for the HP pump that is chain driven , 2 tensioners AFAIK, guides etc.

I'd base it on noise levels . I'd expect 250000K is safely achieveable and if you wanted to keep going and be proactive, do a full change after that of all chains , guides and tensioners. I've seen kits with sprockets too, not cheap all up but I've never changed one.

I have an i40 tourer at 140000k and it's sounding just fine, great touring vehicle

 

Thank you.
I bought it used and up until 150 000km it was serviced after every 20 000km or so every year (by the service manual it should br every year or 30 000km).
So it’s hard to say about the oil, but i can’t heary any extra rattling at 160 000kms.

 

If the chain wears or stretches it will throw a fault code crank/cam (P0016 I think) out of correlation which is a good sign to replace all the worn parts.

 

I wonder what codes are thrown when it snaps?

 

I service mine every 6 months or 10000km, personal choice. Max I'd do would be 12months 15000K, never did understand the UK intervals, I like my cars too much to take the gamble on those distances

 

$$$$$. All in upper case.

 

never did understand the UK intervals

My guess is their oil is much better than ours.
And it's every 20,000kms whether it needs it or not.

 

Right, old habits die hard, I'm not convinced though.

 

It's all to do with the market. how long the car is expected to last and how gullible buyers are. My policy is Synthetic oil and every 6 months or 10,000kms and I won't budge from that.

 

As Hyundai doesn't have it's own C3 manufacturer spec the trick is to choose a high anti wear C3 because not all manufacturer specs are the same .

 

If you are using synthetic oil, why would you want to change it so regularly?..The consensus in the UK is that fully synthetic oil will happily last 2 years or 20,000 miles..Although at present my i40 is doing about 4 weeks to the gallon and post covid for its next service!!

 

2 years 20K is great if you want to write a horror story and it's not just about the base oil either it's about the additive package concentration and it's content of anti oxidants , detergents and dispersants .

It's well know these LongLife oil intervals causes carnage with timing chains etc . The last this month was 15 and 18K servicing . Oil and filters are cheap , engines expensive .

LongLife oil + oil extractor , 6 or 12 months is chicken dinner .

I have no black oil in both my diesels .

 

Diesel engine oils have an inherent problem with going black. Lets remember just what that black compound is. In my books I call it lapping paste. All engines are designed to tolerate particles up to a certain size and a good oil can keep them in suspension and hopefully do no engine damage but for the little extra cost it's cheap insurance. Just my point of view.

 

lifetime is until your warranty is GONE. a failure of your chain or anything in the timing system will trash an interference engine!! on a side note chains USUALLY dont break BUT stretching can cause a poor running + as noted failure of any other part is like a broken chain!!

 

a

 

Late Mail:

The D4FB I referenced that has the same timing kit as the D4FD. At 275000km something has gone on the chain system and sounds like it's loose. If I get in there to have a peek I'll get some images.

Huge job. Requires, injectors out, rocker cover, alternator, aux belt, crank pulley, intercooler pipip, sump, timing cover all out to get there.

 

I can confirm that at 275000km the chain on the 1.6 D4FB (same as the 1.7 and others) was stretched to the point the tensioner was no longer effective. Al the guides and tensioners looked really good with barely any wear. Oil changes on this was @ 10000km or 6 months

 

what manufacturer's chain did you install? and how after year?

 

That's because their using chains not much bigger than a pushbike. All in the name of inertia reduction.

 

My '10 Gen Coupe 2L turbo chain was stretched 100k miles and I changed it. Much better performance afterwards. No codes. I took the valve cover off and the slack between cams was visibly noticeable, the tensioner was half way out They have since come up with an improved chain. It's the same chain they use in the 2.4 Sonata your some years.

They say the newer GF6 oils are designed to fight chain wear.