Hyundai Forums banner

Snow handling?

23K views 35 replies 15 participants last post by  greysave  
#1 ·
I have a 2017 Santa Fe Sport. I'm headed to the mountains this weekend....
How has your Santa Fe handled in the snow? Do you drive in Sport mode? Any tips are appreciated.
 
#6 · (Edited)
We spend most of the winter in snow and ice, and it's handled very well, including in 2ft snow a few weeks ago. When it gets deep, turn on the diff lock to ensure a that minimum of 10% power is sent to the back at all time (below something like 50 km/h I believe).

Bear in mind though that we have proper snow/winter tires (not "mud and snow", or all season tires). In the kind of conditions we go through each winter, all seasons are basically useless, and M&S aren't much better.
 
#7 ·
In a related item, what about the AWD lock button.

Does anyone use it? I noticed in the manual it says to not enable it on the highway (but technically my entire drive home except for the last 1.5 miles is on "highway"). Generally it's about 40 mph until I hit I-90 then about 60 mph for maybe another 2 miles, then down to 50 (or slower if there's snow) on "highway 9".

Thoughts on whether it's useful or not? We've not had a real bad snow yet here at least when I've been driving to work (either it was mostly cleared off already or melted).

Thanks!
 
#8 · (Edited)
You can still enable the 4-wheel lock no problem, but the rear wheel won't help at highway speed. Once slowed down, they will lock back to 50/50.

If you're on hwy, and the road condition sucks, then you only have the tires to save you.

AWD really only helps when you're at lower speed, or you're on the verge of getting stuck.

It's all physics, so if you're scared, get snow tires, or chains if you're in deep snow.

FORGET about Sport mode, makes no sense at all.
 
#9 ·
mjonis - if you read my post, I mention it, although I did call it diff lock - AWD lock is more accurate. You can leave it switched on whilst on the highway - it silently disables over 40 or 50kmh (light stays on, but it's not powering the back any more unless it detects slippage).

Is it useful? Yes - we had about 2 feet accumulation of snow here a little while back, and we had no problems at all - hill starts, standing starts in big drifts etc. it also helps when turning corners, as the rear end doesn't fishtail as badly.
 
#13 ·
Another down side to using Sport mode is that the transmission will downshift earlier. That could be a problem on curves or when turning through intersections. I prefer ECO or normal in slick conditions. As others pointed out you can manually request a second gear start from a top as well. As for the AWD lock....I use it in very deep snow and very slippery conditions. The vehicle seems to turn through intersections with less sliding when engaged. Just a feeling. Nothing scientific about my comment.
 
#19 ·
My main complaint on snow is at very low speed, even with the 4wd switch, it will NOT let the tires spin enough to quickly get out of a parking lot, with incoming traffic, for example. It just cuts power, and wont give it back, wont give it back, wont give it back, wont give it baccccckkkkk JESUS.

So, if you have to get out of a parking lot or driveway quickly and there is loose snow, just turn off traction control, and then turn it back on once you are going 30 km/h or so. That's annoying.

That's my main complaint. What is a 4x4 good for if it wont let you wheel spin a bit at low speeds to clear snow or mud....

Also, I keep the 4x4 switch on all winter. It disables it automatically above 30 or so km/h.
Because if it's not on, and you try to start on a snowy road, it's even worse. (even though it's already quite bad).

Would be easy for the engineers to fix though, but they probably don't care.

Even my wife 2009 rav4 will let you wheel spin a bit at low speeds. Much better.
And my previous grand cherokee was REALLY well tuned at going through snow, but without letting you loose control.

Oh well, just turn off traction control at low speeds when there are piles of snow.
 
#20 ·
Hmm, very interesting about the traction control (of course, this is the first vehicle I've had with TC).

I think AWD offers some better handling/snow handling vs. my previous vehicles with FWD. However, I've not had studded snow tires on my vehicles either (especially as much as they cost for SUVs).
 
#21 · (Edited)
So when traveling at higher speeds (70-80 km/h) with the AWD lock on, will the AWD still kick in from time to time if it feels it needs to? Will it only come on if the traction control system kicks in? Basically, is this only AWD drive until you hit 40km/h or so and after that it won't come on again no matter what?

I REALLY wish there was some kind of indication that would tell you when the AWD system is actually doing something rather than just leaving that "Locked" light on all the time when you have no idea how the power is being distributed. Make the icon on the dashboard blink when the power is being shifted to the back wheels, or something. I have an AWD vehicle and the only time I know it's doing something is when I'm traveling under 40km/h with the lock on, which is maybe 1% of the time I'm actually driving.
 
#24 ·
Since I can't add any pictures yet, the owners manual says this. (copy and paste from it)

AWD AUTO
• When driving in AWD AUTO mode, the vehicle operates
similar to conventional 2WD vehicles under normal
operating conditions. However, if the system determines
that there is a need for the AWD mode, the
engine’s driving power is distributed to all four wheels
automatically without driver intervention.
• When driving on normal roads and pavement, the vehicle
moves similar to conventional 2WD vehicles.


AWD LOCK
• This mode is used for climbing or descending sharp
grades, off-road driving, driving on sandy and muddy
roads, etc., to maximize traction.
• This mode automatically begins to deactivate at
speeds above 19 mph (30 km/h) and is shifted to AWD
AUTO mode at speed above 25 mph (40 km/h). If the
vehicle decelerates to speeds below 19 mph (30 km/h),
however, the transfer mode is shifted into AWD LOCK
mode again.

âś˝ NOTICE
• When driving on normal roads, deactivate the AWD LOCK mode by pushing the AWD LOCK button (the indicator
light goes off). Driving on normal roads with AWD LOCK mode(especially, when cornering) may cause
mechanical noise or vibration. The noise and vibration will disappear when the AWD LOCK mode is deactivated.
Some parts of the power train may be damaged by prolonged driving with the noise and vibration.
• When the AWD LOCK mode is deactivated, a shock may be felt as the drive power is delivered entirely to the
front wheels. This shock is not a mechanical failure.
 
#26 ·
How odd then that on like page 4-119 or something it says do not activate it at highway speeds, if apparently on page 5-22 it says that it basically deactivates over 19 mph/25mph.

But thanks for the info (found it now). I swear I did actually read through the manual in August when I got the car, but I'm old and senile and probably forgot most of it since then. haha
 
#25 ·
Interestingly enough the 2018 Chevrolet Equinox and its siblings will have a switch to disable AWD and essentially turn the vehicle back into a FWD vehicle for improved fuel economy and less driveline wear. It does not just stop it from electronically engaging. It supposedly frees up / releases the rotating parts as well.

Now the down side is that it will NOT kick back in on demand if switched off. The vehicle remains FWD in all operating conditions until the forgetful owner puts it back in AWD available mode.

It is also going to have a warning message to "check rear seat" if the rear doors were opened and closed within ten minutes of engine start. The idea is to prompt the driver to see if a serial killer is hiding back there, although I don't know what GM expects you to do about it at that point. I do expect we will have a ton of customers coming in to ask why their "check back seat" warning message keeps coming on after their kids get into the car....
 
  • Like
Reactions: mjonis
#29 ·
This is lawyer talk to cover Hyundai's butt.

The AWD systems available today are a start in slippery conditions assistant and are in no mechanical way 4x4. Basically it is a sales incentive/fad that may be reduced greatly once we get closer to the 2025 EPA requirements. In fact, the current sized Tuscan may be the big boy at that time! If the SUV/CUV even survives!
And to be honest, this tall station wagon/people hauler gets no better fuel economy than the 2001 F150 XLT 4.6L V8 Ford that it replaced. And it could pull our RZR trailer without any fine print in the warranty!
 
#30 ·
Not trying to be argumentative, but.....

That language is only necessary because people who do not understand how their vehicles operate, which is the majority of those out there, do foolish things that require those notices just like the 25 warning labels you see on ladders.

AWD is a simpler and less costly to maintain and repair system that serves many of us better than a true 4WD. I have had people with 4WD come into our shop complaining of a lack of power at highway speeds after driving for 100 miles (Buffalo to Erie) in 4WD LOW range. The lack of power was the engine screaming against the rev limiter for 100 miles. See first comment about the average driver's lack of understanding about how their vehicles work. I and many people in my area do not need a true 4WD system and AWD is far more than a worthless fad and marketing program. It works and serves the purpose it was intended for. Note that every system operates a little differently and some are more capable than others. Yes,4WD has its place as well depending upon your needs.

On the EPA guidelines....You may see those revised by the current administration. Per the present EPA records for the 2001 Ford F150 auto trans 4WD with the 4.6L engine... 14 MPG city and 17 MPG highway and the EPA numbers are notorious for being on the high side by at least 10%. My 2.4L SFS 17 MPG city for the most part +/- 2 MPG depending on local conditions and around 27 MPG highway +/- around 2 MPG for local conditions. Not exactly on equal footing.....

https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2001_Ford_F150_Pickup.shtml

There is plenty of room for both AWD and 4WD and a market for both.
 
#31 ·
Well driving in 4wd low is one way to ensure you won't get a speeding ticket on I 90, will never forget getting ticketed at 9am Sunday morning about 2 miles from the NY state line, I think going 62 in a 55mph, PA took forever to raise the speed limit to 65 and the state patrol feasted on folks thinking they were almost to NY and out of the reach of the PA law.

You can almost bet on the fuel economy standards getting dialed back - and this is good news for consumers as it would have added significant cost to autos to meet those standards.

As to AWD I think it works well well in the SFS, I used lock mode this past summer going on a 10 mile long dirt and rock road gaining several thousand ft in elevation, difficult to go above 15 mpg many sections it was more like between 5 to 10 mph, with some very steep narrow inclines, used the downhill brake function often on the return trip. Staying in AWD lock saved wear and tear on the rear clutch packs and probably helped with traction some.

And my initial road trip back in 2013 drove up wolf creek pass on rte 160 in S. Colorado, one of the longer steeper and curvier passes in CO, was snowing heavily with around 4"to 6" on the ground and the SFS just ate the pass up, went by all sorts of pickups and 4wd stuff without very litte slipping and sliding, this was going up the pass where FWD lose traction and 4WD starts to slide around some, the AWD performed extremely well and yes I was hitting 40 to 50 mph on the straits in those conditions. Tires were the stock Continentals which aren't the best.
 
#34 ·
Is that RT 160 the "road of death"? My sister took us to Aspen one time, I forget the "road" but all I remember is that on the way up, the white line (where the "shoulder" is), ended immediately after the paint strip and it was like a 3,000 ft straight drop down. One point it becomes a single lane (both directions, so *someone* has to stop). On the way down she's like "what's that smell"? It was her brakes burning. (all those switchbacks).

LOL
 
#32 ·
I wasn't debating the merit of AWD. A good AWD system us every bit as good off road as a transfer-case/no-diff 4wd system if its done right. One of the reasons I chose this vehicle was how well the AWD works. Far far superior to our Rav4, but obviously less good than the system in my manual transmission Subaru.

My point is this: If the "lock" disengages at speeds over 25mph, then why does it matter if I have it engaged and drive highway speed on clean pavement?

My only guess is that continual use in stop and go traffic on bare pavement​ would cause wear.

The button is inconveniently placed. Ill probably apply clear rubber cupboard bumpers to them to make it easier to find with my finger without looking.
 
#36 ·
RT 160 sounds like the road that climbs Mount Washington. I tried that on a day when the cloud cover was low and had to stop perhaps a mile at most from the top. Zero visibility and that same drop to your death if you misjudge issue. Problem was....We could no longer see where the edge of the road met fall to your death. Had to do a 25 point turn to safety get pointed back downhill and just prayed that no one was descending while I as doing so. That road actually has areas to pull over on the way down to stop and allow your brakes to cool down.

AWD lock on bare pavement will cause excessive wear and possibly even damage to the driveline components when the AWD is engaged at those lower speeds.

For any of you GM truck owners with "auto" 4WD. Do NOT run it in auto mode unless the roads are slippery. Although the 4WD is not actively engaged portions of the front differential may be engagaed when the switch is in the auto mode and that can cause excessive wear and possibly long term damage to the front differential. Put the switch in 2WD HI.