My owner's manual recommends QS 5W-20, but I plan on using QS 0W-20 full synthetic. The reason is that Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy advertises a 2% increase in fuel economy. (And my biggest purpose in buying my new Elantra Limited was fuel economy.) If the 2% increase is achievable using Mobil 1, why wouldn't the same hold true for QS 0W-20 full synthetic? I also read that 0W-20 is 100% interchangeable for 5W-20. Thoughts?
papkeja
I switched to Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-20 last weekend. The engine seems to start a little faster, run a bit quieter from cold start, and run a little smoother too. Fuel economy seems to be the same as the factory fill. While I'm sure a 0W will be fine IMO there is no reason to run a weight not listed in the manual while under warranty especially in the summer. Maybe next winter if you live somewhere really cold.
QUOTE (hawk-I @ Apr 22 2011, 03:50 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=434144
"Not all synthetic oils are equal. Some give better protection and last longer than others, depending on whether they're formulated with Ester or PolyAlphaOlefin (PAO) stock. Synthetic oils made from the ester class are much more expensive, but are more durable and hold up under hotter temperatures.
Synthetic oils have different base stocks, which comprise some 90% of the oil. The base stock is the actual lubricant The other 10% or so is the additive package. The relative ability of oils to lubricate is determined by the components of the base stock. There are two principal classes of base stocks used in real synthetic oils: synthesized hydrocarbons (PAOs) and organic esters.
PAOs
The base stock materials used today many popular synthetic oils are made of carbon and hydrogen molecules. These
are synthesized from ethylene gas molecules into PolyAlphaOleflns (PAO). Almost all the synthetic oils sold in the stores are made with PAO base stocks. PAOs provide better viscosity characteristics, are more resistant to oxidation and have much better low operating properties than petroleum oils. PAOs are cheaper synthetic oil base stocks, and aren't as durable as the ester class of synthetic oils. Some of the popular brands of PAO oils include Amsoil and Mobil-1.
These are known as a Group IV oil.
ESTERS (Polyolesters)
Organic esters are made by reacting certain acids with alcohols, forming acid esters. There are alcohol diesters and
Polyol esters. This process uses expensive materials and results in lubricants that cost many times more than PAOs.
Only esters are durable enough to withstand the rigors of jet engine operation and they are used in racing and high performance cars. These oils can cost $8 dollars or more a quart. Redline is an example of an ester synthetic oil.
These are known as a Group V oil.
Hydrocracked (sometimes called Hydrowax)
These are petroleum oils that have been hydroisomerized, as it is commonly called. The most stringent level of petroleum oil refining. Much of the paraffin and impurities have been removed and its performance on any number of industry tests is substantially better than it's group two cousins (the regular oil petroleum oil used in automobiles).
Although it is not made from a synthesized, engineered molecule and as such is not a true synthetic oil, it does offer a portion of the benefits you would expect from a true synthetic and in fact is usually sold and marketed as a 100% synthetic product. Hydrowaxes are very cheap to produce, even cheaper than olefins, making them the cheapest of all the synthetics. As they are formulated from crude oil base stocks they aren't a true synthetic. These are known as a Group III oil. Castrol Syntec is known for using this method.
Quality
Premium quality synthetics will blend more than one "species" of PAO and/or will blend these PAO basestocks with a certain amount of diester or polyolester in order to create a basestock which combines all of the relative benefits of these different basestocks.
This requires a great deal of experience and expertise. As a result, such basestock blending is rare within the synthetic lubricants industry and only done by very experienced companies. In addition, although such blending creates extremely high quality synthetic oils, they don't come cheap. "
How it's made. The only true- by definition, commercially available for retail use FULL synthetic oil is Mobil 1 and AMSOIL.
"Not all synthetic oils are equal. Some give better protection and last longer than others, depending on whether they're formulated with Ester or PolyAlphaOlefin (PAO) stock. Synthetic oils made from the ester class are much more expensive, but are more durable and hold up under hotter temperatures.
Synthetic oils have different base stocks, which comprise some 90% of the oil. The base stock is the actual lubricant The other 10% or so is the additive package. The relative ability of oils to lubricate is determined by the components of the base stock. There are two principal classes of base stocks used in real synthetic oils: synthesized hydrocarbons (PAOs) and organic esters.
PAOs
The base stock materials used today many popular synthetic oils are made of carbon and hydrogen molecules. These
are synthesized from ethylene gas molecules into PolyAlphaOleflns (PAO). Almost all the synthetic oils sold in the stores are made with PAO base stocks. PAOs provide better viscosity characteristics, are more resistant to oxidation and have much better low operating properties than petroleum oils. PAOs are cheaper synthetic oil base stocks, and aren't as durable as the ester class of synthetic oils. Some of the popular brands of PAO oils include Amsoil and Mobil-1.
These are known as a Group IV oil.
ESTERS (Polyolesters)
Organic esters are made by reacting certain acids with alcohols, forming acid esters. There are alcohol diesters and
Polyol esters. This process uses expensive materials and results in lubricants that cost many times more than PAOs.
Only esters are durable enough to withstand the rigors of jet engine operation and they are used in racing and high performance cars. These oils can cost $8 dollars or more a quart. Redline is an example of an ester synthetic oil.
These are known as a Group V oil.
Hydrocracked (sometimes called Hydrowax)
These are petroleum oils that have been hydroisomerized, as it is commonly called. The most stringent level of petroleum oil refining. Much of the paraffin and impurities have been removed and its performance on any number of industry tests is substantially better than it's group two cousins (the regular oil petroleum oil used in automobiles).
Although it is not made from a synthesized, engineered molecule and as such is not a true synthetic oil, it does offer a portion of the benefits you would expect from a true synthetic and in fact is usually sold and marketed as a 100% synthetic product. Hydrowaxes are very cheap to produce, even cheaper than olefins, making them the cheapest of all the synthetics. As they are formulated from crude oil base stocks they aren't a true synthetic. These are known as a Group III oil. Castrol Syntec is known for using this method.
Quality
Premium quality synthetics will blend more than one "species" of PAO and/or will blend these PAO basestocks with a certain amount of diester or polyolester in order to create a basestock which combines all of the relative benefits of these different basestocks.
This requires a great deal of experience and expertise. As a result, such basestock blending is rare within the synthetic lubricants industry and only done by very experienced companies. In addition, although such blending creates extremely high quality synthetic oils, they don't come cheap. "
Good info Flash. I've been using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for years and that's what I'll be using on the Elantra.
QUOTE (NPMountaineer @ Apr 22 2011, 05:59 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=434196
I've contemplated on going full synthetic again..but I honestly don't see the point in paying the extra for the oil when it has to be replaced every 6k just the same as regular oil....
I used to use RoyalPurple synthetic back in the day..... cost me about 8-10 bucks a quart but it was a little on the pricey side but.... it was advertised as "perfomance" motor oil....
I've contemplated on going full synthetic again..but I honestly don't see the point in paying the extra for the oil when it has to be replaced every 6k just the same as regular oil....
I used to use RoyalPurple synthetic back in the day..... cost me about 8-10 bucks a quart but it was a little on the pricey side but.... it was advertised as "perfomance" motor oil....
Don't fall for the how its made marketing hype, for me its all about performance and price. Quaker State is a SN/GF-5, dexos approved oil and its priced low. http://www.quakerstate.com/#/motor-oil/ultimate-durability
Yes Amsoil, Mobil 1, Royal Purple are all good oils but I don't believe they will provide my car any better protection for the higher price. I'm not planning to extend oil change intervals or take my car to the track.
Yes Amsoil, Mobil 1, Royal Purple are all good oils but I don't believe they will provide my car any better protection for the higher price. I'm not planning to extend oil change intervals or take my car to the track.
QUOTE (someguy @ Apr 23 2011, 02:39 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=434370
Never buy perfume for a car, because the car doesn't know you love it. It doesn't even know you exist.
I bought Quaker State 5w20 synthetic for the Canadian winter/cold start benefits, and because it was on sale at Walmart. But most people should simply look for the lowest price on any name-brand petroleum oil of the correct viscosity. 5w20 is recommended, but in warm climates 5w30 or 10w30 can be substituted.
+1
Never buy perfume for a car, because the car doesn't know you love it. It doesn't even know you exist.
I bought Quaker State 5w20 synthetic for the Canadian winter/cold start benefits, and because it was on sale at Walmart. But most people should simply look for the lowest price on any name-brand petroleum oil of the correct viscosity. 5w20 is recommended, but in warm climates 5w30 or 10w30 can be substituted.
Amsoil recommended oil change intervals: 1 year/25,000 miles in normal conditions. I just have a great degree of difficulty wrapping my head around that. And it's expensive, initially. I don't mind spending the money, I just have this "Wall Street marketing tatoo" inside my head that reads: "every 3 mos./3,000 miles." I even felt the hair rise on the back of my neck when I read the Recommended the change intervals in the owner's manual, LOL.
But according to indepent lab studies of multiple oils, Amsoil did come in first after a series of grueling tests. It "way outpaced" the others. Mobile 1, if i recall, finished 2nd.
Just gonna keep using my Mobil 1 5W-20 Syn and HYUNDAI filters every 4-5,000, and pray!!!! :grin:
But according to indepent lab studies of multiple oils, Amsoil did come in first after a series of grueling tests. It "way outpaced" the others. Mobile 1, if i recall, finished 2nd.
Just gonna keep using my Mobil 1 5W-20 Syn and HYUNDAI filters every 4-5,000, and pray!!!! :grin:
Actually i think amsoil recommends a filter change midway thru the 25k miles. Also not all amsoil is 25k oil, there are several different flavors. Hyundai fters are rated for at least 7500 miles which is the normal oil change interval.
Because that's all the cars really need.
If North Americans weren't such suckers for cars, we too would have longer maintenance intervals. We would also be driving compact cars that can pull a 2,000 pound camper, instead of driving ridiculous $40,000 minivans and SUVs. The problem is us. We are just too easily parted from our money when it comes to cars.
If North Americans weren't such suckers for cars, we too would have longer maintenance intervals. We would also be driving compact cars that can pull a 2,000 pound camper, instead of driving ridiculous $40,000 minivans and SUVs. The problem is us. We are just too easily parted from our money when it comes to cars.
I strongly agree on the towing capacity of the European cars. I even saw a Polsky Fiat 126P (0.594L engine) towing a 2 ton sport car on a trailer.
Regarding the polution, I would say Europe is more poluted than North America. Probably for the same reason they can change the oil at every 18.000 Km they can also purchase similar cars like ours but running on diesel.
Who wouldn't want a full size SUV like Santa Fe on a 1.9L TDI? 7 liters\100Km. The Chrysler Caravan built at Grazz, Austria with a 1.9TDI or the identical Saturn Astra = Opel Astra with a 1.6 to 1.9 TDI engines???
I drove the Opel with 170Km\h, AC running and my MPG was 7 liters\100Km. Driving under 125Km my MPG was 5.5L\100Km.
If you build big gazlers not that you sell double gas, but the government gets double income in taxes. My two cents.
I never thought I'll drive a compact car but the price of gas is making the rules these days...
Regarding the polution, I would say Europe is more poluted than North America. Probably for the same reason they can change the oil at every 18.000 Km they can also purchase similar cars like ours but running on diesel.
Who wouldn't want a full size SUV like Santa Fe on a 1.9L TDI? 7 liters\100Km. The Chrysler Caravan built at Grazz, Austria with a 1.9TDI or the identical Saturn Astra = Opel Astra with a 1.6 to 1.9 TDI engines???
I drove the Opel with 170Km\h, AC running and my MPG was 7 liters\100Km. Driving under 125Km my MPG was 5.5L\100Km.
If you build big gazlers not that you sell double gas, but the government gets double income in taxes. My two cents.
I never thought I'll drive a compact car but the price of gas is making the rules these days...
Well, Hyundai recommends a 5w/20 oil. 5w/20 is a thin oil as it is.
Ow/20 is a little thinner than 5w/20 (although I doubt you could tell the difference if you tried to). The "w" in the viscosity range stands for "winter." The 0 weight for winter would be ok if you were in a very cold region (say Montana, Canada, or even Alaska).
You should get decent enough mileage running a quality full synthetic 5w/20 oil, all things considered.
Ow/20 is a little thinner than 5w/20 (although I doubt you could tell the difference if you tried to). The "w" in the viscosity range stands for "winter." The 0 weight for winter would be ok if you were in a very cold region (say Montana, Canada, or even Alaska).
You should get decent enough mileage running a quality full synthetic 5w/20 oil, all things considered.
Don't all these oils reach about the same viscosity at operating temperature, it's just the warm up period is reduced with the thinner oils (which can be needed in very cold climates)?
The definitive explanation of oil viscosity and what the numbers mean can be found here: Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy
I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5w-30, as 5w-30 is the recommended viscosity in the owner's manual for my climate range... actually, almost everybody's climate range, unless you live in either Antarctica or Haiti. IMO, 0/5w-20 is just marketing hype and on a hot day probably a little too thin. My average mpg's are the same as everyone else's, actually better than most. Cold starts are fine too, even in Wisconsin's winter.
Although I do believe in using a "higher quality" synthetic due to it's proven advantage over conventional oil, something for everyone to think about is this: How many early 90's Hondas are still on the road today with 300k + miles on them and never had anything other than Jiffy' Lube's "bulk" oil changed every 10,000 miles? A lot. What does this mean? Oil is just a tad bit over-rated... but it's hard not to get sucked in by the hype, I know I sure have been at times. I guess, I've always felt like it's cheap insurance to use good oil and change it often.:57:
Although I do believe in using a "higher quality" synthetic due to it's proven advantage over conventional oil, something for everyone to think about is this: How many early 90's Hondas are still on the road today with 300k + miles on them and never had anything other than Jiffy' Lube's "bulk" oil changed every 10,000 miles? A lot. What does this mean? Oil is just a tad bit over-rated... but it's hard not to get sucked in by the hype, I know I sure have been at times. I guess, I've always felt like it's cheap insurance to use good oil and change it often.:57:
Okay guys read all the thread , need some advice , my boys 2009 Hyundai Elantra is due for oil change , since purchased haven’t changed oil yet it’s due , I have oem Hyundai oil filter , which oil brand should I go , Hyundai recommends Quaker state 5w20 , should I go with this or mobil1 or Castrol all this three full synthetic, I live north Minnesota which winters are cold
I always use synthetic Pennzoil 5w20 sometimes Ultra when i see a 5 Liter Jug of it on sale. in daughters 2013 elantra & 5w30 in my Santa fe both engines purre on it smooth. using anything else on these engines is overkill.
5w20 is recommended because of government MPG mandates (CAFE).
If you prefer longer life of your four cylinder, versus slightly better gas mileage, then use 5w30.
If you live in the deep south USA - like Texas, Florida.....etc, use 10w30.
If you prefer longer life of your four cylinder, versus slightly better gas mileage, then use 5w30.
If you live in the deep south USA - like Texas, Florida.....etc, use 10w30.
I'd go with a 5W30 such as Castrol Edge Advanced fully synthetic oil The owner's manual say that you can go as far as a 10W30.
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