The error codes are arranged such that when troubleshooting you deal with the lowest number first, then the higher ones may go away on their own.
So start with P0130, use a scanner to look at the upstream O2 sensor signal, use a multimeter to check wiring to the sensor.

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0130 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 1)

 

Hello,

Thank you, I didn't know there is a troubleshooting order by lowest number, it is very helpful!

I just ordered a new o2 sensor due to low price ($50), and because I'm not sure to understand how to test the current o2 sensor.

Here is a capture from TouchScan, which have a Oxygen Sensor voltage seems to be working between 0.1 and 0.9V, and don't know if I need to have a perfect line at idle, but it seems this is not a wiring issue

Unfortunately, I did't manage to locate the o2 at bank 1 sensor 1, some diagrams show it behind the engine, some other in the front.

Can you help me ?

 

I take it the middle section of the graphs are when you blip the throttle and it revs up.
At idle the O2 signal is flat and low; the fuel trim value is very high.
This indicates it's idling lean.
IMO, this is a classic case of a vacuum leak.
When you blip the throttle the extra air and fuel overcome the air from the leak, and the O2 sensor comes alive; the fuel trim drops.

There's lots of info out there on how to track down a vacuum leak.
Here are my favorite cheap methods:
Spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body, hoses etc. Or use an unlit propane torch.
Pinch off or temporarily cap off vacuum lines to the brake booster and EVAP purge valve
Listen for a change in idle, or watch for change in fuel trim.

A smoke tester is quicker, but that's equipment you have to buy or rent.

 

Thank you for answer.

In the meantime, do I need to graph other useful parameters on my ODB scanner ?
I see many interesting PID related to air : Mass air flow rate, evap system vapor pressure, mass air flow sensor A/B, intake manifold absolute pressure...

Also, is it possible that the root cause is an ignition coil malfunction ?
So it may cause the cylinder 3 misfire, which can cause the unstable RPM idle and bad O2 data ?

 

Hi,

So I change my upstream oxygen sensor, and inspect air hoses and found nothing.

I drive few minutes and Check Engine light come up again.

But I have a new code : P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire detected

So to resume, I have at this time :
P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0130: O2 Sensor circuit 1 bank 1
P0170: Fuel Trim bank 1
P0507: Idle control system RPM - Higher than expected

Items new:
Air filter
Spark plugs
Spark plugs wires
Upstream O2 sensor

As there is issues on multiple cylinders now, my guess is the ignition coil pack, or vaccum leak deep diagnosis at shop.
Also, my car consume some oil, is it possible my issues are due to oil in the air/gas mixture ?

What do you think ?

 

What have you done to test for a vacuum leak?

 

I don't have carb cleaner so I did a visual inspection on all hoses which are in very good condition.

For sure if the leak is on intake manifold gasket, I cannot detect, but I just see a video using brake cleaner, and I have it. So I will try tomorrow with brake cleaner.

On a other hand, I found the following possibilities for my exact symptoms you found :

---
Below are some tips and tricks to diagnose the most common faults /defects / failures /malfunctions that cause lean air/fuel mixtures that result in high positive fuel trim values-

• Small vacuum leaks; if both the short and long terms fuel trim values are higher than about 10% with the engine at idle, increase the engine speed to about 2000 RPM for about 30 seconds or so. If the fuel trim values return to a more normal level after this time, there is a small vacuum leak whose effects are reduced or eliminated at high engine speeds.
• Defective MAF sensors can over report the volume of air passing over them, thereby causing lean running conditions
• Inadequate fuel pressure; test fuel pressure with a dedicated fuel pressure gauge
• Clogged or dirty fuel injectors; test injector operation by performing a spray pattern and volume test
• Marginally defective oxygen -, or air/fuel ratio sensor(s); sensors lose some sensitivity after long use, or sensors may be stuck at reading lean conditions as a result of not reacting to switching signals from the ECU, or may be slow to respond to switching signals

So next step is :

• use brake cleaner to detect vacuum leaks
• use fuel injector cleaner in tank to clean all the stuff

But as I said, my short term fuel trim is around 0% in charge and go up to +40% on idle (which max value would be 25%), so it confirms the little air leak more visible on idle.

One question : if the extra vacuum is not significant in charge, what is the emergency degree to repair?
On other terms, misfires may occurs only on idle, am I right?

 

First do a proper vacuum leak test, then we can speculate.

 

Hi,

I did a smoke test, and found the vacuum leak on cylinder 3. We can see it clearly in this video :

In this other video, we can see RPM decreasing a lot when I spray brake cleaner between engine and intake manifold.

What is not clear, is the leak on intake manifold gasket, or engine head gasket, or crack in the engine?

Thank you for your help!

 

OK is it better to do that with cold or warm engine?

And don't see anything about that, but I know the fuel trim is different when engine is cold.

 

N/A

 

Hello My shop has been dealing with very similiar issues on a 2006 Tucson 2.7l customer on his own replaced B1S1 o2, Maf sensor, plugs and wires, when i got this vehicle i did test and gragh all sensors. i started checking for vacuum leaks and checking intake manifold. i did the old brake cleaner spray test listened for RPM change while also monitoring live data via scanner. we found the leak behind the master cylinder the brake booster was our issue the amount of vacuum that was leaking there was unreal and it couldnt be heard over the sound of the intake ect. so just food for thought check there