[oneir]

Does anyone know what size wrench is needed to remove the oil drain plug?

I've searched through all the oil change threads I can find and asked google. I can't register at hyundaitechinfo - site doesn't like my browser. What I could find as service manual at hyatech.com doesn't mention the size of the plug but does give things like proper torque setting. I can find a replacement plug at dorman, but no mention of the wrench needed, just thread specs.

thanks.

 

[oneir]

I am almost positive it's a 17mm.

Thanks, I've seen that figure for a Sonata (courtesy of google). It would make sense for a manufacturer to use the same parts where possible.

 

[oneir]

crush gasket/washer?

Anyone know of a commonly available replacement for the oil plug washer? Dorman gives a part number of 095-147 (or 095-147.1) for a compatible replacement, but Autozone and O'Reilley's near me didn't have that. Advance Auto's website is telling me that all the Dorman M14 plug gaskets they have are not right for a 2012+ Accent. The only gasket they have that's a fit according to them is nylon. I understand the original part is aluminum, so I expect that nylon is not going to "look right" to a Hyundai service dept . It doesn't seem like this should be so difficult to find. I may just have to recycle the one that's already there.

Dealer put 5w-30 in my car, and I'd like to dump and refill with Mobil 1 5w-20 soon. It's unnecessary - I know. But I don't like the way the heavier, Brand X dealer oil feels, and I'm pretty sure it's hurting my MPGs.

 

[oneir]

Whats wrong with getting the filters and crush washer from the dealer? I have seen what many aftermarket filters look like taken apart, and will not use them. The dealer near me sells them for under $6 including the crush washer.

Nothing wrong with it. I intend to keep the filter, as it's supposedly a brand new Hyundai part. I'll be replacing the oil, not the filter. Both the oil and filter are new. I just don't care for the oil and want to dump it. But the plug washer/gasket might be a casualty. I wanted to get on this bright and early tomorrow, and was looking to pick up a compatible gasket tonight.

 

[oneir]

I've been using Dorman M14 aluminum crush washers for a while and they work great. I even just installed the Dorman M14 magnetic drain plug. Used the nylon washer once and didn't care for it. I also tighten with just the ratchet...I did factory torque last time and it took a crap load of force to take it off...was afraid of snapping the head off.

Good to know. I'll pick up one of these tomorrow. For some reason the only thing all the auto parts stores' websites say will fit and was available was a nylon washer. I know the original part is supposed to be aluminum. Could be a nylon washer would work fine, but might get me some grief at the dealership the next time the car goes in. Talking to counter help at the parts stores wasn't much good since what they know is more or less the same thing that their company website says. "We don't have that." All this time I'm thinking, why is this such an unusual part? It probably isn't unusual or special at all. The information on all the websites is just lacking, or not up to date on the RB Accent, I'm guessing.
Thanks.

 

[oneir]

Get them rings at Honda (car and bike) too, maybe other bike shop also.. somebody has copper, them last longer

I saw copper M14 crush washers on some racks today as I was searching, along with aluminum ones. But I didn't realize that either was the right size.

 

[oneir]

Did the board ever come to a consensus about the dipstick "full" mark vs. the manual's stated oil fill volume?

My 2013 car has been refilled by a dealer very recently. Should I just maintain whatever level they filled it to, so they can't say I put in too much or too little?

I saw where one poster said he tilted the car one way then another then shook it hard and was able to put in 3.49 qts and it came up to the full dimple exactly. But I'm still confused. I have ramps to lift up the front, no floor jack or jack stands. Once the car comes down off those ramps it has to have oil in it and the plug in tight, because I'm not starting the engine up with no oil in it, to run it up the ramps again. I can't drain it with the nose up, then let it down and drain it level. I wouldn't have a way to get under it then and put the plug back in, etc.

It really seems like Hyundai should at least explain what the deal is with the discrepancy between the stick and the manual. Owners can't be expected to always have their oil changed by a Hyundai certified service dept. And I am quite certain that not even their dealers will know, let alone service stations and tire stores. For example, you call the dealer's service dept up about the first oil change interval they may tell you there's "special oil" in there from the factory (and so leave it in for the full 3,000+ miles) but it's obvious that they're guessing and not speaking from authority.