So I was going to do my own oil change this weekend and I noticed there was oil all around the bottom plastic cover. I thought that the guys from the dealership did not do a good job of cleaning the bottom of the car after they did the last oil change. Hence why I am doing it now. I realize after cleaning everything that there seems to be a small leak around the gasket where the oil pan meets the bottom of the engine on the back side where the drain plug would be. Has anyone else looked to see if they are leaking too? I didnt change the oil and will be taking the car in for repair this week.
Mrtheplague
Good move not changing the oil after noticing the problem. I see this was posted over a week ago. What was the problem?
Seeing the lower pan leak at the goo.. the goo they use at assembly seems to be some cheap low quality stuff that dont seem to set up firmly.. Why they aint got smarts to use PERMATEX ULTRA RTV in first place is beyond me,, starting to do re-seal on the LAMBDA engines for front cover and oil pan,, 6+yr later, the goo is still sticky,, not cured... wonder why the joints leak ??
The stuff we get in tube (RTV) sporting Hyundai part number feels/smells/sets up like the previous PERMATEX ULTRA that Hyundai was slapping part number tag on PERMATEX package and sending to dealers before change to current stuff in smaller tube.
The stuff we get in tube (RTV) sporting Hyundai part number feels/smells/sets up like the previous PERMATEX ULTRA that Hyundai was slapping part number tag on PERMATEX package and sending to dealers before change to current stuff in smaller tube.
2012 Sonata with same issue. Seems worse after my last oil change with new oil in there. Used a high dollar Bosch filter and Castrol GTX. Changed oil and thought I had some residual dropping that may have got on top of under craddle plastic shield. Crawed under car and there was a very wet oil pan. Not very happy. Glad I am only leasing this thing for my wife. Eeven my Chevy's don't do this crap till they hit 100K+.
Yes I could clearly see where it was at. No I did not see this on the front, only firewall side(rear). And yes it is going to dealer to fix. They played stupid really very well to my disappointment over the issue. Should not happen on a new car. Poor design/choice. Felt gasket or rubber gasket needed!!
My oil pan is wet in the same spot as OP. I probably just do it my self instead of having the dealer do it. I don't need a hack job done to my car. I just have a fear of the old RTV not being cleaned off correctly and ending up getting caught in my oil system.
Oil pan looks rather easy on our car, only thing i see in the way is towards the front where the AC compressor bolts up.
Book time as follows:
Replace Upper 2.4
Replace Lower 1.4
9.Remove the A/C compressor lower bolts (A).
![Image]()
20.Remove the A/C compressor bracket (A).
![Image]()
Easy enough
Oil pan looks rather easy on our car, only thing i see in the way is towards the front where the AC compressor bolts up.
Book time as follows:
Replace Upper 2.4
Replace Lower 1.4
9.Remove the A/C compressor lower bolts (A).
20.Remove the A/C compressor bracket (A).
Easy enough
AS noted before, they (manufacturer) using bulk goo by the tank full, and it probably the low cost bidder thta got contract for the goo by the train tank car full. The engine mass produced so they can be quickly assemble into chassis and on the way.
On dealer level, we getting goo in tube that resemble PERMATEX ULTRA by look/smell and texture, though it slight lighter tint.. the crap on the engine is different color.
At the dealer, we have ability to get the part(s) installed, push the car of for rest of day and allow goo to get a good cure started, you DO NOT want to assemble parts and right away fill with oil/coolant and take off down road,, BAD MOVE..
If I can leave it sit rest of day, or overnight (best), that be best choice, but silly service advisors want car out right after the parts together, customer want to sit and wait (bad move).. cant win some time, then they try to blame tech because it leak again..
On dealer level, we getting goo in tube that resemble PERMATEX ULTRA by look/smell and texture, though it slight lighter tint.. the crap on the engine is different color.
At the dealer, we have ability to get the part(s) installed, push the car of for rest of day and allow goo to get a good cure started, you DO NOT want to assemble parts and right away fill with oil/coolant and take off down road,, BAD MOVE..
If I can leave it sit rest of day, or overnight (best), that be best choice, but silly service advisors want car out right after the parts together, customer want to sit and wait (bad move).. cant win some time, then they try to blame tech because it leak again..
Agreed with above. When the dealer puts that big sign out front of the manufacturer it represents, you know that they have a contractual relationship with the manufacturer. I can guarantee you that any dealer that works directly with a car company has a direct responsibility to the customer who buys from them. The manufacturer can only do so much and this is why there are dealers. You can't just stroll into the Alabama Hyundai plant and buy a car. It becomes the dealer's problem when something goes wrong and they are asked directly by the manufacturer to fix these problems. Of course the car company can step in if the dealer is failing to do so.
Hi,
Does anyone have the torque value and sequence for reinstalling the oil pan? I can't find it in the HMA service manual.
I too have a leaky oil pan after 4K. I'm just going to use the 'right stuff - grey'
I don't have very much confidence in dealers fixing my cars. Unless it's a major mechanical problem, then I will do the repair myself. At least I know it's done right with the TLC that needs to be given.
Does anyone have the torque value and sequence for reinstalling the oil pan? I can't find it in the HMA service manual.
I too have a leaky oil pan after 4K. I'm just going to use the 'right stuff - grey'
I don't have very much confidence in dealers fixing my cars. Unless it's a major mechanical problem, then I will do the repair myself. At least I know it's done right with the TLC that needs to be given.
Just wanted to add I also have an oil leak around the pan somewhere.
At first I just thought it was the drain plug, but the leak has persisted through several oil changes. I change the crush washer each time and tighten to spec using a torque wrench, so I'm fairly certain it isn't the drain plug.
The oil drips down onto the heat shield and pools there. When the engine is warmed up, the stench of used oil coming in through the climate control system is so bad I can no longer use fresh air. This results in the absurd spectacle of cranking the heater with recirculated air while driving with the windows cracked in cold weather to keep the windows from fogging. When I pull into my garage, the stench of used oil fills the garage and seeps into the house.
The leak is small and I've never had to add any oil to top off, but it is rather ridiculous a newer car is already leaking oil. I regret buying a new model year vehicle (2011).
I'll be taking it into the dealership service department this week or next. They really gave me a run-around in replacing the front struts to correct the left pull, so I'm not confident they'll be quick to fix this problem. I've been gathering my documentation and reading up on this problem and going over the warranty booklet in preparation. This thread has been very useful in this process and I wanted to thank the posters who have contributed.
At first I just thought it was the drain plug, but the leak has persisted through several oil changes. I change the crush washer each time and tighten to spec using a torque wrench, so I'm fairly certain it isn't the drain plug.
The oil drips down onto the heat shield and pools there. When the engine is warmed up, the stench of used oil coming in through the climate control system is so bad I can no longer use fresh air. This results in the absurd spectacle of cranking the heater with recirculated air while driving with the windows cracked in cold weather to keep the windows from fogging. When I pull into my garage, the stench of used oil fills the garage and seeps into the house.
The leak is small and I've never had to add any oil to top off, but it is rather ridiculous a newer car is already leaking oil. I regret buying a new model year vehicle (2011).
I'll be taking it into the dealership service department this week or next. They really gave me a run-around in replacing the front struts to correct the left pull, so I'm not confident they'll be quick to fix this problem. I've been gathering my documentation and reading up on this problem and going over the warranty booklet in preparation. This thread has been very useful in this process and I wanted to thank the posters who have contributed.
Well I just resealed the oil pan myself yesterday with the 'right stuff - grey'. It was quite the job, but not too bad. The hardest part was pulling off the oil pan, as the silicone sealant they used really stuck to the pan and block. I also changed the drain plug to a magnetic one and used a copper/brass crush washer. I too found that the drain bolt has to be torqued to spec so it will not leak.
I guess only time will will tell to see if this will fix the leak.
I guess only time will will tell to see if this will fix the leak.
I'm taking my car to get the oil pan gasket fixed tomorrow. The said it only needs to sit about an hour to fully cure. Is that long enough?
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Hi everyone, I just traded my 09 Sonata for a 11 Sonata Limited 2.0T. I have spent the past couple days searching the posts and catching up on the turbos.
This oil leaks sounds common, around what mileage did you notice the leak? I haven't had a chance to look at the oil pan b/c I've only had the car since Saturday, but oil was just changed and is the the Full mark. I'm at 23,000 miles now so just curious if this is something that is noticed early like around 5,000 miles or later 20,000 miles...I did see a leak @ 4k mentioned above. Thank you
This oil leaks sounds common, around what mileage did you notice the leak? I haven't had a chance to look at the oil pan b/c I've only had the car since Saturday, but oil was just changed and is the the Full mark. I'm at 23,000 miles now so just curious if this is something that is noticed early like around 5,000 miles or later 20,000 miles...I did see a leak @ 4k mentioned above. Thank you
Well to add to add to this thread, I think hyundai uses a threebond product. I was looking around the HMA website and they were saying that the sealing product they were using has changed from a TSB. Anyway, I think 'the right stuff - grey' is great. I cleaned up both surfaces and appled the rtv. Then I pushed up the pan up and and installed all the bolts just snug. I left it sit there for 45min and came back and applied full torque. Once the pan was torqued up, I let it sit for an hour put everything back together, then filled it back up with oil.
I read a lot about the fumoto valve, and I just don't want it. I have been changing oil for years, and I just want the drain plug to work the way its supposed to. The yellow teflon is working like a charm, no leaks. My next project is to try a ford/gm style oil drain plug with a permanite gasket then ill never have to fuss with the crush washer.
To comment on the post about how many miles, I think if you find the car and driver long term test on the sonata, they also had a oil pan leak. Resealed under warrenty, but leaking none the less. I think they are using piss poor rtv and shotty application. When I pulled my pan off, i could see where they were a little short and that is where the leak began.
I read a lot about the fumoto valve, and I just don't want it. I have been changing oil for years, and I just want the drain plug to work the way its supposed to. The yellow teflon is working like a charm, no leaks. My next project is to try a ford/gm style oil drain plug with a permanite gasket then ill never have to fuss with the crush washer.
To comment on the post about how many miles, I think if you find the car and driver long term test on the sonata, they also had a oil pan leak. Resealed under warrenty, but leaking none the less. I think they are using piss poor rtv and shotty application. When I pulled my pan off, i could see where they were a little short and that is where the leak began.
Update on my oil pan leak.
I took the car in for the problem to the dealership on 1/24. Oil was discovered leaking down the back side of the pan. They also found two bolts they claimed were not tightened to spec on the oil pan and they tightened them and told me to wait and see and if that didn't fix the leak they would have to order a new oil pan and reseal it.
Tightening the bolts obviously did not fix the problem. I think we're all aware at this point the problem is with the sealant substance. Within two days I was already smelling the stench of used oil when the engine warmed up.
I took the car back in on 2/14 (and boy, is the wife enthusiastic about this on Valentine's Day) and they are currently working on it. I was told the new sealant will take five hours to cure, but that was the attendant talking, not the tech, so who knows if that is accurate or not.
I asked them to use the new oil I provided to refill the engine (Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30). I was concerned about them erroneously filling the engine with bulk fill 5W-20 like we've seen a lot of people with turbo Sonatas experiencing here on the forums. Since the car was due for an oil change, I also provided a K+N oil filter and asked them to change that as well. While the oil pan repair was obviously covered under warranty, they told me they'd have to charge me labor for the oil filter. So I'm paying some guy $20 labor to spend three minutes changing the oil filter on an engine he's already drained the oil out of anyway, and I've saved them money to begin with by supplying the oil to fill the engine back up with. Delightful. I offered to do it myself if they'd just let me under the lift for a few minutes and look the other way, even offered to use my own tools, but they declined due to liability issues. At this point I'm sure I'll show up to pick up the car and find a $17 surcharge for a twenty cent aluminum crush washer since I forgot to bring them one.
I'll post another update when I get the car back for a few days and ascertain if they were actually able to fix the problem.
Oh, and since someone asked, this problem began to occur at about 7000 miles.
I took the car in for the problem to the dealership on 1/24. Oil was discovered leaking down the back side of the pan. They also found two bolts they claimed were not tightened to spec on the oil pan and they tightened them and told me to wait and see and if that didn't fix the leak they would have to order a new oil pan and reseal it.
Tightening the bolts obviously did not fix the problem. I think we're all aware at this point the problem is with the sealant substance. Within two days I was already smelling the stench of used oil when the engine warmed up.
I took the car back in on 2/14 (and boy, is the wife enthusiastic about this on Valentine's Day) and they are currently working on it. I was told the new sealant will take five hours to cure, but that was the attendant talking, not the tech, so who knows if that is accurate or not.
I asked them to use the new oil I provided to refill the engine (Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30). I was concerned about them erroneously filling the engine with bulk fill 5W-20 like we've seen a lot of people with turbo Sonatas experiencing here on the forums. Since the car was due for an oil change, I also provided a K+N oil filter and asked them to change that as well. While the oil pan repair was obviously covered under warranty, they told me they'd have to charge me labor for the oil filter. So I'm paying some guy $20 labor to spend three minutes changing the oil filter on an engine he's already drained the oil out of anyway, and I've saved them money to begin with by supplying the oil to fill the engine back up with. Delightful. I offered to do it myself if they'd just let me under the lift for a few minutes and look the other way, even offered to use my own tools, but they declined due to liability issues. At this point I'm sure I'll show up to pick up the car and find a $17 surcharge for a twenty cent aluminum crush washer since I forgot to bring them one.
I'll post another update when I get the car back for a few days and ascertain if they were actually able to fix the problem.
Oh, and since someone asked, this problem began to occur at about 7000 miles.
And my final update. The problem seems to (hopefully) be fixed.
The dealership installed a new oil pan assembly, drain plug, and gray RTV silicone gasket sealant. It was given five hours to dry. Those repairs were under warranty.
Four days later and there is a residual smell of oil in the cabin when on fresh air circulation, but I'm hoping that is just residue.
The dealership installed a new oil pan assembly, drain plug, and gray RTV silicone gasket sealant. It was given five hours to dry. Those repairs were under warranty.
Four days later and there is a residual smell of oil in the cabin when on fresh air circulation, but I'm hoping that is just residue.
2011 Sonata GL here.
70,000 KM and my local (non-Hyundai affiliated) shop noticed the seeping around the backside of the oil-pan gasket during an oil change.
Have it booked to take in for warranty repair at a Hyundai dealer this Saturday. The service person on the phone seemed to be aware that this was a common issue, as she knew right away to tell me that they would have to keep the car for half the day, and she responded quickly that it was covered as warranty work when I described the issue.
I'm hoping the gasket material they use to replace it is of better quality than that from the factory...
70,000 KM and my local (non-Hyundai affiliated) shop noticed the seeping around the backside of the oil-pan gasket during an oil change.
Have it booked to take in for warranty repair at a Hyundai dealer this Saturday. The service person on the phone seemed to be aware that this was a common issue, as she knew right away to tell me that they would have to keep the car for half the day, and she responded quickly that it was covered as warranty work when I described the issue.
I'm hoping the gasket material they use to replace it is of better quality than that from the factory...
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
