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Oil Filters Reality - How Inexpensive Filters Passed ISO-4548-12?

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5K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Dog Patch Steve  
#1 ·
Hello Hyundai Owners,

Our community have been plagued with bearing failures, …yet some can get 200K, 400K, 1 million miles out of our original engines/transmissions without failures, …even when our engines are on the recall list.

Motor Oil

Almost all motor oils are qualified to API SP, ILSAC GF6A or GF6B, …since April 2021. It is difficult to find non-certified oil. The question is when to change the oil. Majority of drivers fall into the “SEVERE SERVICE” category and required to change oil 3750 miles. Only people who drive 1-2 hours on clear highway at 70 F qualify as normal service and 7500 mile oil changes.

The oils are time limited 6 months to 1 yrs, because the oil additive package breaks down and cannot protect the engine.

Oil Filters

Many low cost aftermarket oil filters are able to meet ISO 4548-12 at 99% efficiency at 30 microns and even 20 microns. I want to share my engineering test data and examination.

What everyone need to know about general engine bearing clearances and contamination size? Please refer to the image.

1). Most engines are designed with bearing clearances 0.0008“ to 0.0012” (20-30 microns).
2). The oil film is 1/2 the bearing clearance, 0.0004” to 0.0006” (10 to 15 microns)
3) To prevent any contamination from contacting the bearing causing wear, oil filter must remove foreign objects greater than 0.0004” or 10 microns.

I purchased after market filter rated at 99% efficiency at 30 microns and 20 microns, these passed ISO 4548-12 “single pass” filter rating. Using “AMAZON” dirt particle sized and a laser particle size analysis device. This is not a fully calibrated test using ASTM or ISO certified dirt.

The aftermarket oil filters performance, “Single Pass”
30 microns. 20 microns. 10 microns. Mean Microns
After Market 30 microns. 99%. 85%. <50%. 9-15 (broad peak)
After Market 20 microns. 99% 99% 65%. 9-11
Hyundai 36000-35504. 99%. 85%. 60%. 9-12
Hyundai 36000-35505. 99%. 98%. 75% (82% 2nd Sample) 7-9

The mean micron is telling me these filters remove most contaminants which can cause wear at maximum clearance of the bearing 0.0006” or 15 microns oil film. These filters effectively halt bearing wear beyond max oil film clearance.

What is the biggest difference? It’s the by-pass valve. Many of the aftermarket oil filters have inexpensive by-pass valves set at 15 psi. Therefore, it will allow dirt to by-pass the filter element when only 15-20 PSI differential occurs. At cold temp., cold start; it only required 30-40% clogging of aftermarket filter to open by-pass valve, or less than 100 grams of dirt.

The Hyundai oil filter have by-pass valves set at nearly 100 psi. The Hyundai filter elements are constructed to handle higher burst pressure without failing.

Some of the aftermarket filters elements collapsed at 50-60 psi when they were clogged with dirt (the by-pass valve was disabled). This is actually within the normal operating pressure of the engine.

What does this all mean?
(From the discovery test results - noncalibrated and beyond ISO4548-12 testing requirement)

i. The aftermarket oil filters will filter most contaminants, …to the high side of the wear limit.
iI. The aftermarket oil filters will by-pass contaminated oils at lower level of filter contamination.
iii. The Hyundai factory oil filter have stronger by-pass valve and filter element, therefore it has higher capacity to filter dirt.

IV. The long term life test data, ie 10,000 to 20,000 miles are done in lab, at STP (Standard Temperature and Pressure. The engine is run continuously for the entire test. This does not represent normal human driving, no one can leave their engine rev-ing at 2,000 RPM for 10,000 to 20,000 miles without turning it off and without encountering cold and hot conditions. Normal human drivers only drive 20-30 miles per round trip and turn off their engines over night.

V. How do we use this data and aftermarket oil filters?

If you use aftermarket filters, change your oil and filter based on SEVERE SERVICE maintenance schedule. Over-loading the oil filter will put it into by-pass mode and circulate contamination which can wear out your engine. This means changing your oil and filter at 3000-4000 miles.

Hyundai factory 36000-35505 (latest oil filter) are very good filter. These filters actually filter below 10 micron at 40-50% (7-8 micron). These filters have stronger filter element construction and stronger by-pass valve, which allow higher contamination capacity before by-pass.

What have I done based on my posts?

I have purchased aftermarket oil filters ISO 4548-12 99% efficiency at 30 micron and 20 micron. This Winter the Hyundai factory oil filter 36000-35505 were in limited supply, in my area. This was the reason I decided to use tested aftermarket filter. The test data tell me I need to continue my SEVERE Service maintenance schedule at 3000-4000 miles oil/filter change.

I will buy bulk Hyundai factory 36000-35505 oil filters in the future. These are much better filter, offering better protection of my engine.

Best Wishes
 

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#2 ·
Gad Kooks! A quite insightful post of most excellent intel. And a very organized presentation of what many 'ol motorheads have hidden away over decades of their wrenching. I'm cross-pollinating this with a related thread nearly a year and half later, and still 100% applicable to an entirely new gen of engine (both DI and port injected - and hopefully to-be-proven much less prone to issues than the subject of this thread).


Oh BTW -->ALL<-- this and the other thread is copy-pasted into a master WORD doc. And in true Brazing Saddles form I'll not hesitate a "Pardon me while I whip this out" when getting any grief from someone spouting nonsense about the importance of highest quality lubrication and filtration.
 
#3 ·
Related Topic on API SP, ILSAC GF6A (5W-30 full synthetic oil)

The new API SP oils are so much better than the old oils, let's review some simple observations.

1) Older oil API SM, SN oils could lose 14%-20% wt. during Noack Volatility Test. What does this mean? Many car owners were suffering carbon build-up in intake manifold and valves. The aftermarket responded with the PCV Catch Can. My own Catch Can required dumping every 30 days with a cup of sludge.

New API SP Synthetic and Synthetic Blended oils have much lower Volatility Wt. loss during Noack Test.

Walmart, Valvoline, Quaker, Pennzoil:

Synthetic Blended: 5W-30: 3%-6% Wt. loss: est. 2.5X to 7X reduction carbon vapor.

Full Synthetic: 5W-30: 2.5%-4% wt. loss: est 4X to 8X reduction carbon vapor.

Using the new API SP full synthetic 5W-30, my Catch Can have very little sludge deposit after 30 days, mostly water vapor and by-passed gas with little oil. I'm expecting much lower carbon build-up issues in the intake manifold and valves, PCV, EGR and Evaporative Canister Solenoid Valve clogging.

2) The API SP addressed the LSPI - Low Speed Pre-Ignition. With higher Compression (10:1) Turbocharged.
engines, the low-speed pre-ignition (detonation) became a problem. The detonation caused erratic high-pressure pulses and temperatures transferred forces to the engine parts, caused damages to the spark plugs, piston, rings, bearings, stretched the timing chains. The high EGT could damage exhaust valves, turbos, oxygen sensor and cat..

What's new and what benefits did we gain with API SP? Better performing detergent base.

a) Reduction of Calcium base and switched to Boron base (Warren Distribution did this in 2018 with API SN Plus). Calcium base in the detergent was determined to contribute to LSPI. Switching to Boron base reduce or eliminated the LSPI.

b) The new detergent base was much better at resisting Oxidation and sludge formation. The engine internals are much cleaner.

Reminder New Engines have very tight clearances 0.0008"-0.0012" (human hair is 0.008" 10X greater than engine clearance) Many components are driven by engine oil, oil pump pressure regulator, CPU controlled solenoids, Cam Phasers, Cam Lifters, Roller Rockers and Shafts, Timing Chain Tensioners. Piston Cooling Squirters, and bearings. With cleaner engine oils, it will be less likely oil driven components will experience failures.

3) Reduction of Zinc di Sulphate (related Zinc compounds). The Zinc caused shorting of Spark Plugs, Oxygen Sensors, MAP and MAS sensors, as well as contaminated the Catalytic Converters. The Sulfur in the oil created Sulfuric Acid which corroded the exhaust system. This reduction in Zinc and Sulfur in oils should improve the reliability of the emission control system and ignition.

Hope I didn't miss anything. My question is, why would anyone promote the old API SL, SM or SN oils? The performance of the new API SP oils are so much better.

In conjunction with the 99% eff. 20 micron filters our engines should last longer with SEVERE service schedule.

Best Wishes
 
#4 ·
I wish I could find the engineering paper that I found on a Valvoline site about two years ago where they discussed the changes made to the additives of their full synthetic to combat the buildup on the backs of GDI intake valves. I had a 2014 Elantra GT 2.0L GDI that had chemical valve cleaning performed at 10K and 20K. Both times there were significant improvements in idle, start up, tip-in, and smoothness. Up until ~30K I was using Castrol GTX dino oil, 5K/6mo OCI. Read about the Valvoline additive package and switched to their full synthetic. Never cleaned the intake again, ran smooth, pulled plugs at 68K and looked great. Have stuck with Valvoline in all my vehicles ever since.

Currently driving two 2023 Hyundai, one with the 2.5L NA GDI engine, the other with the 2.0L Turbo N motor. Both will continue to get 5K/6mo OCI using Hyundai filters only and Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic. Current driving conditions for both are neither "Normal" nor "Severe", so I split the difference.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the feedback. I think I read the Valvoline white paper. I use many Valvoline products in my 3 Hyundai's.

1) Valvoline MaxLife full synthetic ATF. I typically perform a flush and fill every 30K miles or 3 yrs. This is because it's difficult (impossible) to change the transmission filter and flush-out the locking torque converter. 1st flush 50% clean, 200 mile drive, then 2nd flush 75% clean, then I reduce the ATF change interval to 30K-40K or 3-4 yrs. My cars have over 150K miles.

Note: The FWD cars have the differential inside the transmission. Therefor it is more important to flush the transmission.

2) Valvoline Full Synthetic Differential Gear Oils with Limited Slip Modifier. Since my Tucson and Santa Fe have AWD with Locking Diff., this means it most likely have limited clutch pack, therefore I use 75W-140 with Limited Slip modifier.

Note:

Never put regular gear oil into a limited slip, it will cause the limited slip clutch pack to seize and damage many drive train components (U-joints, CV joints, bearings, transfer case, 1/2 shafts).

Putting limited slip modifiers into a regular differential only make it function smoother and quieter.

3) My daughters use the local Valvoline franchise to perform a full synthetic oil/filter change, $75. Typically you can find a $10 coupon on line. Remember Valvoline will log your service on CarFax car maintenance. This should increase your trade in value and any warranty issues.

Walmart had an oil-filter change special this month. Full Synthetic oil (Quacker State, Valvoline or Pennzoil) and 20 micron filter for $45 ($10 off) and they vacuum the inside of the car. (my dealer don't vacuum the car! Walmart also log maintenance and tire changes on Carfax.
 
#5 ·
2014 Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo sport 197,000 Canadian Kilometres on odometre & on the Original Engine starts & idlel's super smooth all my oci's have been useing 5w30 Penzoil Platinum Synthetic & 9688 Fram Ultra XG Oil Filter, uses about half to 3/4 of a litre every 6,000 Km's Yes these engines are defective and can seize blow at a moments notice but i always check Oil level on it every week just to be on the safe side. i think what also contributes to many engines on here blowing up is people are lazy they dont bother checking oil level until its well below the low

mark on the dipstick or the Oil light lights up on dash wich adds alot of wear & tear what i have noticed with are Santa Fe is theres been a few times out of the blue where it strangely droped oil level near the low mark out of the blue with in a weeks time really weired had i not checked it would of been a big problem and i too would of lost the engine wich is why? from now on i check Oil Level every week ever since that weired drop in Oil occured.
 
#6 ·
I think what also contributes to many engines on here blowing up is people are lazy they don't bother checking oil level until its well below the low mark on the dipstick ...
Ding-Ding-Ding-Ding-Ding, we have a winner!

With two new vehicles I check the oil weekly or every fill up until they have a good 5K on them. I remember the '60's when new Chevy small blocks were consuming oil at a quart in less than 500mi. Rings wouldn't seat. Designers learned from that experience, but I have a long memory.
 
#8 ·
Raymund55 Good Stuff.
On are Santa Fe i do 3 drane and Fills on the ATF with driving in-between each time i do a drane & fill shifts like a hot knife going through butter afterword lol i change ATF every 60-65,000 Kilomtres & for the rear differential & front transfer case it gets Royal Purple Maxgear 75W90 so far no issues everything works excellent.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Carvana just released it's earnings. They are making over $6,000 on each used car sold. This tells me the dealers; trade-in values and parts supplies are going only to dealers and high prices with short supplies. The car buyers and owners are getting screwed. This data tells me to perform more maintenance on my used cars, more frequently to keep them in good condition.

I decided, "I am not a used oil collector for display in my vehicles!" I am a car owner who is going back to the old standard and using the "Severe Service Maintenance Schedule". Any wear components are replaced before failure, to keep the vehicle reliable.

Critical components on my 2010 Tucson and Santa Fe are getting their 150K miles major service.

1) Brake Jobs, service the calipers, sliding pins, brake pads, flush the brake fluids.
2) Change out the serpentine belt, tensioner, pulleys.
3) Flush the radiator
4) Flush power steering
5) New Tires
6) Engine, Oil, Filter, PCV, Dip-stick O-rings, new oil filler cap, air filters, spark plugs, spark plug boots and spring, gas treatment, gas filler cap.
7) Transmission double flush with new Syn ATF.
8) Differential Service with Syn gear oil with modifiers.
9) Change sway-bar bushings and sway-bar links, F n R.

Total cost of parts for 2 cars $700 (tires excluded). The Tucson was done last week. I am 1/2 done with the Santa Fe.

I don't want to be that sucker who paid a dealer $6,000+ for used car just to have them to wash, wax, vacuum, and change the oil!

Best Wishes