I changed/replaced my rusty lines with stainless steel lines. Check out these sites for a permanent safe fix.
http://www.inlinetube.com/
or http://www.classictube.com/

 

My fuel line had a thick plastic coating surrounding the steel tubing. Only where the nut and filter were joined was there rust.

Did you get your lines pre-bent or did you bend them yourself?

 

I was sick today when I twisted the fuel line. I've been searching on the internet for a few hours for a solution and finally found this posting. I thought I was going to have to replace the entire fuel line. You are a God-send for posting the links to the Doorman repair kit part# 800-156. I'm heading to Advance Auto tomorrow at lunch.

 

Donedds, could you please let me know if everything worked out with that part (and how exactly it is used). I did the same thing today and I'm not totally sure how its supposed to be fixed.

 

The bottom fuel filter connector on these cars is a really cr*p arrangement; too easy to damage the fuel line. Luckily when I attempted to do my fuel filter, I didn't damge the line (best to hold the nut still with a good spanner and undo the filter so the line does not get twisted) but I could not get the fuel line to seal to the new filter no matter how tight or how many times I tried. In the end I had to refit the old filter; have not tried again.

 

new fuel line

Resurrecting old thread...I am going to replace the whole fuel line. I ordered the OEM from the Hyundai dealer on Monday and will get here Friday. $72. The filter was very old and the line was stuck there and I did not realize it was twisting, so it got damaged. I was not aware of repair kits (then again, I am a rookie at this), so I just called the dealership and placed the order.

Too bad there were no follow ups on how the repair kit worked out. I will post how my project goes as this is the first time I'll be doing this.

I was thinking of putting a little bit of anti-seize on the thread from the fuel line to the fuel filter? Any comments regarding doing this?

 

1999 Elantra -- Fuel Line - need HELP!!!!!

Hi everyone, well, this is a little bit more complicated than what I was hoping. I got the new OEM fuel line from the dealership. Now, I am trying to figure out how to install it! I need help!

There are three lines attached to the same brackets under the car. The fuel line is the outer one on the pic below. The bracket bolts (10mm) are full of rust! I got one out and broke another one.

This is one of the middle brackets and the rear bracket. There are four brackets total.

The space to pass the fuel line into the fuel pump is tiny! I don't think I can pass the fuel line through the space. How to do this? Any recommendation? I went to the HMA Service website and read the Haynes manual and they are very vague on how to accomplish this. This pic shows the space I have to pass the fuel line at the back to the fuel pump:

This is the fuel pump. Should I disconnect the line from here? The line seems to connect to a shorter line at the fuel pump. Again, given the space, I am worry about how to accomplish this.

Any help will be extremely appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!

 

What a rust bucket. I'd just break off the brackets if I had to. You can always fashion a new bracket... it's just holding little lines. I assume your new line connects at the fuel pump... you'll have to figure that out when you get it out.

 

Thanks jsinton. I was thinking if I can lower the fuel tank some two inches, just enough to get the fuel line through.

Anyone knows if this is a good idea or even possible?

 

Instead of replacing the whole line, why not just cut off the twisted bit and connect a new piece of pipe with some fuel hose? Seems like a lot less hassle.

 

Hi EdGasket, I read about that option, but by the time I read about it, I had purchased the OEM fuel line at the Hyundai dealership and I was a worried about possible fuel leaks using the method you refereed to.

Well, I am still struggling with this. The weather was not helping, but now, I just can't seem to figure out how to slide the fuel line out! The HMA shop guide just says to unscrew the bolts and remove which is a exaggerated over simplified set of instructions!

Anyone has any ideas of how to slide the fuel line out once all the brackets are removed? The space going to the engine and to the gas tank is just too tight...

 

Need some advise...
Anyone knows if I can just loosen the self-locking nuts that hold the fuel tank bands? The nuts seem to have some space on the attached bolt. Can this allow me to lower the gas tank some two inches, which I think will be enough to easily pull the fuel line out and install the new one?

This is a picture of the self-locking nut holding the fuel tank band. There are two of this at the back of the fuel tank. I was thinking to loosen them almost to the end, which should give me some wiggle room. I will hold the tank with a piece of wood and a jack. Is this advisable? You think it can be done?

 

I don't know for sure; I should think you could but you'd first need to check round the tank to see if there are any other pipes attached e.g. return pipes, vent pipes, and make sure these have enough slack so as not to get bent or broken off.

 

Hi there! All the connections to the tank are rubber hoses into metal connections. So if all you need is to lower the tank 2 inches you shouldn't have to remove any of them. However to be safe you could remove the two hoses on the top of the fuel pump, you will need to remove the back seat, one is clamped on and the other is bolted onto the pump.

There are also approx 3-4 connections at the very rear of the tank for the fuel filler neck and evap connections. Like I said if only lowering 2 inches you shouldn't have to remove them. Then there is one more which I believe is part of the evap that is towards the front of the tank on the drivers side. If you get on the ground and look in front of your rear drivers side tire and look up you can see a rubber hose that goes up and above the tank.

Highly recommend going extremely slow and not apply too much pressure to the nuts. You will break the bolts! If this happens you CANNOT replace them. You will have to weld something in place as a fix. So please use plenty of PB Blaster and don't apply to much pressure when loosening. My friend said you should loosen a turn and tighten 1 and loosen 2 turns and tighten 1, repeat until it's low enough for ya.

 

Thanks for the input Dssman006!!!

I tell you, this job, at least for rookies like me, is a huge pain!!! I lowered the nuts and the fuel tank lowered what I thought was enough...I am going crazy getting the line out from the back and the front. I am still going at it, but I've been thinking about calling some area mechanics and see who can do a home visit to get this done.

The lack of space on the front is unreal. The same in the back. I am running out of options here. Even if I get the fuel line out (even if in pieces), I am still thinking how in the world am I going to get the new one in place!!!

Any other suggestions will be extremely appreciated...thank you!

 

I guess you must be wishing you had left the old fuel filter on now?
Last time I did a fuel line which was many years ago on a completely different car, I just got an alloy line (like the sort used for brake pipes) of the right length made up with flares on the end and a suitable attachment for the fuel tank end and then just bent it into shape as I was fitting it.
Can you take the tank right off or lower it supported by a jack to give you more room?

 

You got that right! Changing the fuel filter turned out to be an expensive and time consuming experience! I really don't like how Hyundai designed the fuel filter in the car, but oh well, live and learn.

And, you are right, the only way to get the line replace is to lower the fuel tank at least some eight inches or so. The best way is to actually drop the tank to the point where you have access to the fuel pump from above.

Here is what I did:
The only option is to drop the gas tank. You do not need to fully drop the tank. I dropped mine some eight inches. Just support it with a jack and a piece of wood, remove the nuts from the support straps, and start lowering little by little. Make sure the lines and electrical connections are disconnected from the fuel pump.

I did not loosen or disconnect any other lines or hoses that go into the tank. If you drop it more than what I did, then you will need to disconnect the filler line and other lines on the back of the tank. It does not look difficult, and honestly, it is the best approach. It would be easier and better to actually drop the fuel tank to have complete access to the fuel pump from below the car.

Getting the fuel line through the front of the car to the engine compartment is a real pain. But, little by little, twisting the line and forcing it, it will go in. The best approach to work on the line in the engine compartment is to remove the air filter housing and unplug all electrical connectors on top of the fuel filter housing. Also, remove the MAF and the air hose. That will give you enough room to put the fuel line where it goes and put the fuel filter back.

To tighten the fuel line to the fuel filter and to the connecting line to the fuel pump, you will need a 17mm wrench to hold the fuel filter and the fuel pump connecting line and a 14mm wrench to tighten the connecting nut on both ends of the fuel line. Make sure you tighten them good, but don't over do. You need a 17mm deep socket to remove the nuts to lower the fuel tank. Everything else, as far as I can remember, uses 10mm sockets.

After everything is put back together, check for leaks through the fuel pump hole on the back seat and at the fuel filter connection. Ensure there is no gas smell and no visible drops and that is it, you are good to go! It took me longer than I anticipated because I had no idea what I was doing. It was a good learning experience and if confronted with this again, I can have everything done in less than a day. But, if you are a rookie like me, take your time, think and analyze everything twice before proceeding, and you will be ok.

Hope this will help someone in the same predicament as the HMA Online instructions and the Hayes manual are not good sources for this job. I am glad the line is in and the new fuel filter...it better last until I trade the car in in a few years! ^_^

 

Well done and thanks for the feedback!
When I removed my old fuel filter, I held the nut on the line stationary with a big adjustable spanner tapped onto the flats and turned the filter itself with a spanner. That way the line doesn't get twisted. However I couldn't get the new filter to seal at the bottom and had to refit the old filter anyway. Its still on there now with 137K Miles.

 

Just as a follow-up to my original post... its been awhile. The fuel hose patch has held up nicely and has never had a leak.

 

I have 2007 Hyundai Elantra, hit a rock right under the drivers side where your feet go. There's an indent. Assuming I have a pinched fuel line because my fuel gauge does not go below 1/4 of a tank and I eventually run out of gas without warning. Having a really hard time finding a fuel line replacement.. any suggestions?? Thank you