Have you heard any positive reviews of the torsion bar brace? I'm thinkin about getting that next. Lowering the car helped a little, possibly getting the KYB's as well along with the brace, but would love to hear a few reviews on it first.

 

Same here.

 

Well I'm ordering coilovers on Monday and hopefully get them installed on Wednesday and rear suspension is butt because it keeps bouncing to much

 

argh so tempted to get coils ... but trying to back away because its the wifes daily, I dont wanna slam it and have her take out the bumper or crack a wheel over a pothole lol

 

There are quite a few sporty cars that use the torsion system so I think the main problem with the Elantras system is that it's so softly sprung & dampened combined with lack of proper bracing causing the side to side movement we all feel under certain conditions. I believe there is a way to remedy this however Hyundai didn't build this car for enthusiasts and has no expetience with tuner FWD cars so all those things combined make for a lackluster suspension feel under some conditions.

 

Replace the rear shocks with KYBs. They're a nice upgrade from the stocks shocks.

 

1badsr, is this what you mena by torsion bar brace???

(car is chevy cruze)

 

Yes , like the one they carry at sharkracing. In theory it feels like it should work. By keeping flex to a minimum at the rear it should allow the suspension to work better. What it feels like to me is the rear of the chassis flexes too much on an uneven surface, esp during turns, and that is what causes the wiggly feeling. Maybe i'll be the guinea pig and try it out. Seems like the only place I can find it is sharkracing.

 

I didn't have time to read all posts before having to head out, I was just talking to my wife about this issue! I noticed how soft the rear feels especially over a succession of bumps it tends to lift and slide around a bit, I'm worried that in the winter it will be a hard car to handle! I really want to tighten it up but not at the expense of slamming it, I'd love to lower it but it's a daily driver besides the wife wouldn't let me!

 

I didn't have time to read all posts before having to head out, I was just talking to my wife about this issue! I noticed how soft the rear feels especially over a succession of bumps it tends to lift and slide around a bit, I'm worried that in the winter it will be a hard car to handle! I really want to tighten it up but not at the expense of slamming it, I'd love to lower it but it's a daily driver besides the wife wouldn't let me!

Sorry forgot to ask earlier, can you just change the rear shocks and not fronts to stiffen it up just enough not so its pounding on your kidneys!lol

someone up there did change their rear to stiffer shock and had improvements.

it will slide and shake its ass because it's not completely symmetrical, but that shouldn't matter in low grip situation because it's the momentum that matters most, as long as car's going straight, the rear will lose grip for a split second but it will regain, since forces that are perpendicular to each other does not affect each other.

 

Sorry forgot to ask earlier, can you just change the rear shocks and not fronts to stiffen it up just enough not so its pounding on your kidneys!lol

 

update from sharkracing

the torsion bar (chassis) brace WILL lower ground clearance of that area, but since the wheels are contacting the ground, it will not contact the ground in any case EXCEPT, when the middle of the road is sticking out really bad, but in that case we suspect the exhaust pipes or bumper will contact before the chassis brace.

still waiting reply about Z-link

 

i think i saw that one already its from Ultraracing.
Hyundai Elantra MD (2010) Front Strut Bar / Front Tower Bar UR-TW2-1795

 

Here's a good photo of shark racing's brace:

 

Here's a good photo of shark racing's brace:

ahhh thank you, makes more sense now,

 

With that brace it won't be a torsion beam anymore but a solid axle.

 

lmao isn't it the smaller rear brace that SHOULD tighten up the rear?

teaser/feeler - front brace

btw since elantra has a COIL spring in the rear, i have hard time it's actually a "torsion" beam axle,,
it's just an axle (cuz otherwise you'll need at least mcpherson strut to suspend wheel hub to chassis) and then,, well like a solid axle! rather solid

the bigger rear brace will make the axle (not torsion axle cuz there's no torsion) stiffer, therefore reducing the "rebound" bounce of rear axle beam when on side bumps.

and the smaller brace,, looks like modified strut brace to not intrude into interior space

 

Our rear beam is designed to twist and move a bit so with a brace like Shark Racing's you will get significantly less twisting. I'd be interested to know the percentage increase in stiffness. This beam coupled with a stiffer spring and damper setup will allow the Elantra to handle pretty good. It's a light car and with the rear end issues addressed I can safely say it would be a really fun car to hit back roads with.

That said there is a possibility with the stock tires Shark Racing's brace would be too stiff creating some oversteer in slick conditions if you don't upgrade the front sway bar. I think doing a Veloster front sway bar or a performance front bar with SR's rear bar it would be a more neutral setup. When tuning suspension it is very important to not just focus on one component or you'll end up with something unpredictable at the grip limit.

 

I'd also like to add that while all these under body subframe x braces and box braces will make a difference it's probably not something that is going to change the handling of the car completely and they aren't something you'd notice with stock shocks and springs.

The only parts that will greatly transform how the Elantra handles is the rear beam brace I posted earlier and the front sway bar. After you've gone with a stiff coilover setup, performance sway bars and a rear beam brace THEN you will want to start stiffening the chassis bracing. With the stock soft suspension most of the roll is in the shocks and springs, once those are stiffened up and you have little to no roll the chassis will start twisting, that's when you need the subframe braces to stiffen the chassis itself.

I have a lot of experience with suspension tuning and it's really a science. You gotta know your car well at the limit then break down what needs to be improved and do a lot of testing to ensure the car handles neutrally. I've seen too many people upgrade the wrong parts and end up with an unpredictable car that ends up getting them into trouble.

 

I'd also like to add that while all these under body subframe x braces and box braces will make a difference it's probably not something that is going to change the handling of the car completely and they aren't something you'd notice with stock shocks and springs.

The only parts that will greatly transform how the Elantra handles is the rear beam brace I posted earlier and the front sway bar. After you've gone with a stiff coilover setup, performance sway bars and a rear beam brace THEN you will want to start stiffening the chassis bracing. With the stock soft suspension most of the roll is in the shocks and springs, once those are stiffened up and you have little to no roll the chassis will start twisting, that's when you need the subframe braces to stiffen the chassis itself.

I have a lot of experience with suspension tuning and it's really a science. You gotta know your car well at the limit then break down what needs to be improved and do a lot of testing to ensure the car handles neutrally. I've seen too many people upgrade the wrong parts and end up with an unpredictable car that ends up getting them into trouble.

:werd: thumbs up!

 

I go on the highway near my city at 90 Km/h in a very pronounced curve and my Elantra is handling just fine, pretty much like my ex 2007 Focus with an independant suspension. I dunno why you guys have problem with this car's suspension? why modding it like a race car when we're not allowed to drive over the speed limit? this is my opinion but I know many want to change the suspension but why not buy a Mazda3 or a Lancer instead of an economy car? I think just the Shark racing orange brace would be enough to stiffen the rear suspension.

 

i do agree with you but i also have to admit the feeling coming from a suspension capable of carving that turn @ 200 even if you're(well, i'm) crusing through @ 80

ideally if rear is bouncy, driver should drive accordingly by stabilizing rear, intentionally making understeer to put more weight in the rear.
if car is too pushy understeery, driver should enter slightly too fast and brake to the threshold and tuck the head in at lower gear shifting down either heel-and-toe or slap shift, but,, yeah. it's the feeling lol the car itself is capable of very fast driving. there's a one-model race in korea with MD 1.6 GDi mostly stock.

because mazda 3 is too smiley and lancer, well it's no better unless it's evo and evo sucks gas and poor mpg.

not every porsche/lambo/ferrari owner drives it like it's supposed to be driven

 

Thanks for this discussion I didnt realize ultraracing was making parts for MD already.

 

hope this help

How sway bar work, How Stuff Works, How do stabilizer bars work, Function of strut bar,

 

I'm going with the camp that says the rear end has somewhat of an issue.

When I had the Elantra, I was always dodging potholes and going slow over speed bumps, in fear of the impending "CLUNK." Ok, so the 17" wheels didn't help, but still...

In the new car, I go over the same roads without those issues. Smaller wheels (16") help, but I just think overall, the suspension is more taut.

 

Still babying my new car over any bumps so no complaints yet but this does involve some body roll control so definitely subbed and appreciated!

 

I indeed noticed some bouncing over bumps but taking a pronounced curve at high speed is not a problem for me, it handles very well, my only rant would be bumps.

 

Over any bump that affects one side of the car and not the other upsets the rear end. This is magnified at 40+ mph and even more so when you are mid corner. Basically because the car has a solid rear bar and the two rear wheels are connected anything that affects on wheel will affect the other. In a car with an independant rear hitting a pothole with one rear wheel won't upset the other rear wheel other than tugging on the sway bar a bit. In our cars this causes significant twisting of this beam which in turn makes for a "shimmying" movement where the rear of the car steers slightly.

 

Can someone shed some light on the following strut bar?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/190708320899?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Made by Luxon... i've heard 50/50 opinions of this with the combo X brace.

 

Can someone shed some light on the following strut bar?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/190708320899?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Made by Luxon... i've heard 50/50 opinions of this with the combo X brace.

Luxon is legit, i had them on my tiburon, fender, front strut, mid car, rear strut.

but once you have strut bar, you get hit left corner, your whole front end goes twisty twisty.

but looking at my car, it came with a solid strut bar so, i guess it's worth doing it lol (imo, OEM only uses when benefit >>>> drawback)

 

The Post

I see both sides of this coin, and I too have much experience in the suspension world. Mainly Lancer Evo's after owning 4 of them and racing 2 of them. I could tell you stories. This Elantra though is no lancer evo, nor tries to be. Sure people want to mod a car, to make it "theirs" and that is cool, but there is only so much that can be done. What I can tell you is through every mod there are pros and cons. You really have to think about what your using your car for. Are you seriously going to push this Elantra through curves so fast to cause it to misbehave? 99% of the people out there no. Remember though, 99.9% of FWD cars are designed to understeer for safety reasons. Why? Its easier to come out of a understeer turn vs. an oversteer turn for the inexperinced driver. So IMO if you increase the stiffness of the rear the odds of oversteer are unrealistic. If you increase the front stiffness with the rear stiffness you may feel you are "blanancing" it out, but in theory your taking away from what your trying to get rid of. The rear suspension on this car is good, and has been used on many decent handling cars in the past. It does have some major drawbacks though and with the lack of available aftermarket parts for the Elantra it makes it dificult to make a valid choice. Its either "this" or "OEM" thats it. If you increase the stiffness too much in the rear WITHOUT the brace from SR then you may just bend the torsion beam and then your S.O.L. So if you lower your car with stiffer springs, use a stiffer shock, and roll on heavier, bigger aftermarket rims then this brace is saving the rear OEM beam from actually bending. If it bends beyond the threshold of stock (which isn't much considering what Hyundai designed this car for grocery getting not racing) then your looking at a VERY expensive boo boo. The brace would be cheap insurance. I am curious of the SR coil over system. The non adjustable dampening version. I am curous to who makes this set up, and how much stiffer than stock it really is? SR is charging a pretty penny for that kit considering your only really getting 2 coil overs, adjustable struts. The rears are fixed with new shocks and springs. Some more info on this set up would be quite valuable. Other than that, there isn't much out there. KYB rear shocks for those who want to stay stock would be a good start. Then go from there.

Just my ten cents...

Jeff