Its been to hyundai and they can't find the problem with it.

What? They can't solve a no start? The dealers can't find decent techs in your country?

 

Global issue, parts swappers or outsource it. Sad situation.

What would be handy to know is what is working like central locking. If the car is still alive there then you could assume we have power from the battery, from there check fuses in the Engine box or the EMS module is my gut feeling.

So it's push-button start , no activity in the cluster and do we assume no reaction from the push button, no change in the cluster, is the light on the button lit, does it change colour, no accessories or radio on first push?

Diesel or petrol model

This would be right down @AUTOSPARK alley.

 

Its been to hyundai and they can't find the problem with it.

You can't be serious. There is no power getting to anything in the car but they can't find a problem?

Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?

Sounds like there is a serious power supply problem. Give me 10mins and a voltmeter and I'd probably have it running.

Do you own a set of jump leads? If so what I would do is connect one of the black crock clips to the battery negative terminal, and connect the other black clip to a clean metal part of the engine. Leave the two red crock clips disconnected. Try that and see if that makes any difference.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

Sorry, I should of explained it abit better. The central locking works, push start button lights up, headlights and hazards work, but thats about it.

Its gives the impression, if it had a normal ignition in it, it would be on 1st click and wont go onto the 2nd to make everything else come alive.

Hyundai kept saying they can fix it but all they want to do is throw thousands of pounds worth of bits at it, untill something eventually fixes it. The car is a 2012 so isn't worth putting alot of money into fixing it.

 

As with all electrical problems, the fist step you should take when diagnosing the fault is check ALL the fuses. Rather than start pulling fuses out and looking at them, I suggest using a voltmeter instead. Connect the black meter probe to a good ground, then touch the red meter probe to the test terminals on top of each fuse. If you find a fuse that has 12V on one of it's terminals but something different on the other that fuse is blown. I would also take a close look at the main ignition fuselinks (the larger square fuses) out on the engine bay fusebox. Those supply power to the relays that replace the conventional ignition switch on cars with push button start.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

Finally got round to having a look at this again, checked all the fuses everything is OK, there is power getting to the key reader in the centre console. I've had a mate plug it into a diagnostic machine again and the only part he can get on is immobiliser. And it says there ate no keys registered to the car.

This sounds like it could be the problem but would both key just loose the programming at the same time or is it more likely the immobiliser on the car side has gone wrong?

Thanks

 

I'll have to check one of mine later but won't it be under SMK - smart key module And are you saying the only module in teh car you can communicate with is immobiliser. Feel free to put up any images.

 

Been on with it all afternoon and still no further forward, if we put 12v to the ignition fuse in the internal fuse box we can read all the fault codes for engine, hvac, multifunction, abs etc. Non have faults codes in them. But if you go into the coding key parts in the immobiliser it comes up with this.

 

that could be normal, what module is it stating? I'll brave the floods for you

 

I've just found someone in Australia who had the same problem and they said it was the escl, electric steering column lock.

Does anyone know if I buy a second hand escl are they are a straight swap or do they need programming for my keys ?

Thanks

 

The module should be able to be checked. I'll have to read up on it to understand how it stops the vehicle starting. I guess if it does not go unlock then the next sequence does not commence. You do hear the lock disengage first then it cranks. The only tricky bit is removing the blind security bolts. I drilled mine out but I'm sure there'd be a professional way to do it?

 

that module you should see it in the live data what status it's showing too

 

 

Note the modules I accessed and what you see. You'll notice the no keys/no keys learnt etc. Smart key module is the one most useful I feel.

right click open new tab will allow it to be clearer

 

Thanks, I'm going to have to try and find someone local who has GDS as we can't seem to access that part of the system.

Or take it back to hyundai and get them to replace the escl, and hope that fixes it.

 

I can't say and I still think some further fault finding could be a good idea or fire the parts cannon and replace it anyway yourself. It sits in the same place a conventional column lock sits as part of a keyed barrel.

In the interim you could use standard bolts instead of security or get the part and remove the harness from the suspect one, plug in the new one. If this is what is stopping it I expect the ESCL to operate, and the car to start except the column obviously will remain locked with the old unit still fitted.

The ESCL disengages on the first push of the start button and is easily audible as a whirring noise.

 

I've took the escl off and when I press the start button nothing happens to it, the locking pin doesn't go in or out. I have also took the escl apart and the motor inside does work, so its either the circuit board inside the escl or it isn't getting told what to do by something else.

One thing I have noticed is when I press the start button the little led on it flashes 5 times, not sure if this means anything as I can find anything about what the light does or means.

 

Hi all

I have the same/very similar problem with my 12 plate ix35

Did you manage to sort it ? Mine's been with an auto electrician since February and he can fix it ...........

 

Hi all

I have the same/very similar problem with my 12 plate ix35

Did you manage to sort it ? Mine's been with an auto electrician since February and he can fix it ...........

Edited to say CAN'T fix it

 

Yeah, the steering lock was permanently off on mine. Yours sounds exactly the same as what mine was doing.

My nearest Hyundai dealer wanted to put a £2800 complete steering column in it, so i was over the moon to finally fix it for £70

 

Does sound identical problem doesnt it ?

It's still on the ramp at the auto diag place so I'll give him a ring - he's had the whole dash off & tried no end of bits on it

£2800 !! That's the quandary I was in - cars barely worth that

Thanks once again mate & I'll update when/if sorted

 

Morning,

Thought I'd post an update

Tried the emulator, but no joy (unfortunately) - but I'm convinced (correctly or not ) that the ECSL is the problem

I have the car back with me now & the next step is to get the lock off and have a good look at it

Does anyone know if I get a replacement ESCL, can I do a straight swap or will it need to be programmed to my key?

Any thoughts welcome

 

Did you buy the emulator i shared the link to on ebay? as there are 2 different types. One needs the keys programming to it to work, the other doesn't.

If it is the escl thats failed that emulator should of made it start, did you try the keys in the centre console key slot? As when I first put mine back together that's the only way it would start, till I put new batterys in the keys.

How good was the fella who has had it to bits, if he has forgot to plug something back in you could be chasing a totally different problem now.

You could bypass the main relay in the car, to see if everything else comes alive, the car won't start, but it would give you a good idea if everything seems to be plugged back in.

If you get another escl it will need to be programmed to the keys, i got a quote of £200 off a lad that cuts keys for cars to programme one.to mine. He said he would rather use a new escl as its easier to programme than a used one.

 

Yes mate bought it of the link you gave me - tried both keys in centre console, no joy

He talked a good job but ultimately I don't think he was as good as he thought he was - I don't think he's buggered something else up - in so far as there's no new symptoms - but I'll check the main relay

I'll have the escl off anyway - just to check that the motor does work & that nothing's fried itself inside; if I draw a blank there, I'll try & source a replacement

I really thought the emulator would do the trick - I had exactly the same issue as yourself - even the push start LED flashing red 5 times................

Thanks for replying mate

 

I took my escl apart, bit tricky to actually get it in half, took the little motor out of it, thinking I could just put a new motor in it and it would be fine. Tested the motor and it worked, so it must of been the electronics that controlled it not working.

The main relay is behind where the 12v sockets are in the centre console, infront of the gearstick. You need to bridge the 3 big wire that go to it and the dash should light up and everything should come alive.

 

Yeah, the motors probably fine but I may as well check it while it's here, after the main relay - if it is ok then I guess I'm looking elsewhere for the fault............

You mentioned in a previous post that you had an immobiliser fault when you put 12v on the ignition fuse - was that a red herring ? I would have thought I would have dash lights even with an immobiliser issue - but then I've realised the more I have to p$ss about with this car, the less I actually know...........

Thanks for your help again mate; I'm sure you got better things to do

 

Yeah, the motors probably fine but I may as well check it while it's here, after the main relay - if it is ok then I guess I'm looking elsewhere for the fault............

You mentioned in a previous post that you had an immobiliser fault when you put 12v on the ignition fuse - was that a red herring ? I would have thought I would have dash lights even with an immobiliser issue - but then I've realised the more I have to p$ss about with this car, the less I actually know...........

Thanks for your help again mate; I'm sure you got better things to do

Hey mate, I have got the same issue with my car, I know its been a while you had this issue but would you mind sharing the fix for it please.

 

The same issue happened with me today. Been working on it all day and I couldnt believe how it worked. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes then connected it again. Jumped in and still was same issue however I moved the steering wheel left and right few times, then centered it and bang it turned on.