Factory fill is, most assuredly, conventional 5W-20. Quaker State is my guess, since Hyundai specifies their brand in the owner's manual.

 

Im almost sure SK Lubricants supplies all the engine oils at Ulsan. Even if Shell were the supplier I doubt they would ship Quaker State from the USA to Korea. It would most likely be an ACEA Spec Shell Product as opposed to an API Quaker State.

I also wouldn't bet on it not being the same 5W30 all the non-US Accents ship with.

 

As far as I know, no one has ever gotten a solid answer from dealerships or Hyundai corporate customer service about the factory fill oil - anything about it. I would bet against the factory fill being synthetic though. I think one poster here even had Hyundai customer service tell him not to use synthetic - not that a random Hyundai CSR rep should be presumed to know what they're talking about. If you are thinking synthetic for engine longevity, and you want to change the oil early and often during the first few months/ first few thousand miles, I'd say go for it. Dealer service techs will probably tell you there is no need to change the oil sooner on a new car than the normal oil change interval, (I asked and was told that, and several others have reported that as well) They may be right that there's no need, but it won't hurt anything either. No one has ever received and reported definite information about any "special factory break-in oil fill". I can say -with corroboration from others' experiences, too- that the gear box oil in the manual transmission model Accent breaks down pretty quickly, and you're best off changing it out sooner rather than later. So much for the idea that Hyundai put in the best possible lubricants for our cars at assembly time.

Consult the owner's manual for environmental and operating conditions which govern correct oil change schedule for your local situation. There are notices in there also about what not to do during initial 600 mile break in period: no revs past 4k, if I recall correctly, and try to vary your speed as much as possible.

For warranty reasons, it's best to use the Hyundai oil filter when changing your own oil.

 

Agree with using OEM oil filter. 1,000%. And use the brand of oil you're most comfortable with...staying within the API recommended ratings. There are a ton of posts on oil brands, types, blends, links, and change intervals. Enough to keep you reading for hours.

 

Current plan is for 5W-20 Castrol Conventional @ 1,000 mi, then 5W-30 Castrol synthetic (gold bottle, not Syntec) from 3,000 mi onward, with OEM filters all the way.

I figure even if the original oil isn't break-in oil, there's still going to be particulate that's worth flushing out early and often.

Thx for the tip on the manual tranny fluid, I'd seen the same suggestion in a few other posts here. Have 3 bottles of Redline MT-85 in my shopping cart right now.

 

When I bought my car I asked the service manager what the factory fill oil was and he said it was 5w-20 semi-synthetic and their bulk oil used at the dealership is 5w-30 conventional. I can see most dealerships using something similar and don't know if I can believe him about the 5w-20 semi-synthetic but I'll take him at face value.

I did my first oil change at 2K miles and the second at 6K miles. I think break-in oil is largely a thing of the past although some variation of it might still exist in some cars. I agree 100% on the use of OEM filters.

I've heard people give advice not to go over 5K miles as an oil change interval for DI engines due to the potential / probability for fuel dilution. The general thought was that direct injection engines are not long OCI-compatible engines...oh they'll do it, but you don't want to do it...and I can see that logic...I'm planning my oil changes every 4000-5000 miles going forward.

 

I also use Castrol gold bottle oil and OEM filters. This car loves it and runs silky smooth all the way to 4,000 miles, which is about the time I change it since my driving conditions fully warrant the short OCI for a premium oil.

 

I think I should not have cheaped out and put in Wal Mart Supertech Oil instead saving a few bucks vs using Pennzoil Platinum. The engine is not as smooth. Going to use Kendall Semi Synthetic next.

 

Nothing wrong with Supertech oil. It meets GL/ILSAC spec, and it's rated pretty good over at BITOG.

 

My understanding is that SuperTech was formerly made by Exxon Mobil ( if I'm not mistaken ) for WM and this product transitioned to being made by Citgo a year or so ago. My only issue with it is trying to find a spec sheet for it as the one that I saw ( which was unofficial ) had a NOACK percentage rating of 13 or 14 which, being that high, I personally wouldn't want to put in a GDI...but then again I'm anal about the carbon deposit issue. I think it's good oil but I just don't like the idea of not knowing what it is with no PDS to show me the specs of what I'm putting in...maybe the PQIA site has something on it...

 

maybe the PQIA site has something on it...

Petroleum Quality Institute of America

Not that I can see since 2010.

CONSOLIDATED DATA ON 5W-20s EXAM

Citgo did pretty horribly - as did Valvoline and Motorcraft (that I currently use and would be my second choice (but not in a GDI).

Still not seeing anything to make me not use Pennzoil yellow bottle Dino in these cars ...

 

I agree on the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend...I've used it in two previous cars but not in the Accent GDI. I think all the SOPUS oils like Pennzoil have lower NOACK figures than anyone else and might be the "go to" oils if you're staying with conventional oil for the GDI. Again, I don't know if using an oil with a NOACK of 7 or 8 will make a difference in these engines long term over one w/ a NOACK of 14 but I'll err on the side of caution.

 

I bought a new '14 Azera Limited two weeks ago and have been very pleased thus far. This is my first car that was not made by Ford or Chevy. I was not expecting Hyundai to be my choice, but it seemed put together better, better styling, and the interior was well laid out.

I've spent the past 10 days researching this issue and trying to get an answer from someone who is not reading a canned response. I've done my best to avoid any Hyundai customer care agents as I found they perpetuate the myths surrounding synthetic oils and are ill-informed. I've called and left messages with people at Quaker State, Hyundai Motor Manufacturing Alabama (where the lambda family of engines are made), and Hyundai Motor America. Today, I received a call back from Hyundai Motor America with an answer. He was concerned that Hyundai Customer Care Agents did not follow proper procedure and elevate such questions to the appropriate department or that they conveyed misinformation regarding synthetics and warranty issues.

The factory fill is a full synthetic from Quaker State. He did not know if it was a specific blend (e.g., Ultimate Durability). He was adamant that it was not a synthetic blend, but a full synthetic. To me, this explains why the manual states that using a synthetic oil is not required. I would prefer Hyundai simply state in the owner's manual that its vehicles come from the factory with a full synthetic, but a conventional or synthetic blend meeting "such-and-such" criteria can be used instead of a full synthetic if preferred.

 

I bought a new '14 Azera Limited two weeks ago and have been very pleased thus far. This is my first car that was not made by Ford or Chevy. I was not expecting Hyundai to be my choice, but it seemed put together better, better styling, and the interior was well laid out.

I've spent the past 10 days researching this issue and trying to get an answer from someone who is not reading a canned response. I've done my best to avoid any Hyundai customer care agents as I found they perpetuate the myths surrounding synthetic oils and are ill-informed. I've called and left messages with people at Quaker State, Hyundai Motor Manufacturing Alabama (where the lambda family of engines are made), and Hyundai Motor America. Today, I received a call back from Hyundai Motor America with an answer. He was concerned that Hyundai Customer Care Agents did not follow proper procedure and elevate such questions to the appropriate department or that they conveyed misinformation regarding synthetics and warranty issues.

The factory fill is a full synthetic from Quaker State. He did not know if it was a specific blend (e.g., Ultimate Durability). He was adamant that it was not a synthetic blend, but a full synthetic. To me, this explains why the manual states that using a synthetic oil is not required. I would prefer Hyundai simply state in the owner's manual that its vehicles come from the factory with a full synthetic, but a conventional or synthetic blend meeting "such-and-such" criteria can be used instead of a full synthetic if preferred.

The Accent 1.6L GDI is built in Ulsan. To the best of my knowledge they don't use the same supplier as Hope Hull (Montgomery).

 

Is it a good idea to do an oil change in a brand new car at 500 miles? I've heard around that since a car sometimes seats at the dealer for quite a while its good to change that oil as soon as possible...

 

Considering the car ships with synthetic and the standard oil change interval is 1 year (Read the fine print on oil change under 6 months service in the manual) I wouldn't be in to big a hurry. I don't really think with the finer machining and cleaner assembly that modern cars need an early breakin change but if it makes you feel better you could drop it at the 3750 mile severe service interval.

 

I've read that it's common practice, recently anyway, for car manufacturers to "break-in" the engine at the factory before it's put into a vehicle. As such, a change at 500 miles doesn't make much sense. But, if it makes you feel better, then it certainly won't hurt anything as Hyundai does not ship the cars with a break-in oil.

 

I know all 2019 hyundai and Kia's come with syn oil from the factory.
I was told by QS it has been syn oil for years not sure how far back.