Hello & welcome to the forum 00000732


Your symptoms sound kinda similar to the fault I helped with in this thread :
bogging down 2000rpm - no warning lights

Regards.

Scottie.

 

Check your injectors.
When they are clogged and full of gunk, you can hit the gas and it will bog down before it starts to go.
It will also make it hard to start..

Remember this is only a guess since I can't be there to do a few test to make sure.
But after you have replaced so many parts ... what's left?

Yeah, like Autospark said, it could be a clogged exhaust pipe??

You could even try a compression test??

 

I've supplied a video as to what the car is doing. I've had a look in the exhaust and it seems clear. Injectors could be an issue maybe.

OK since it won't let me link, search youtube for 2000 Hyundai Accent engine problems

 

OK since it won't let me link, search youtube for 2000 Hyundai Accent engine problems

Here is the direct link to the video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-qH0ASQEWw

Do you have the exhaust disconnected in that video? It sounds like there's a gaping hole in it.

Does it run any different from a cold start? What exactly happened after that ECU reset you mentioned above? Have you had a look at the OBD data list to see what the mixture is like and how the PCM is adapting the spark timing? That can give you a clue what's going on. Notice that the penny dropped on that other thread as soon as I saw his scan data. That doesn't always happen but sometimes it's like a big neon arrow lighting up and pointing you in the right direction...

 

Take out the O2 sensor and see if that makes a difference. Might be a blocked exhaust. Where are you located?

 

Since timing belt was changed, recheck timing, one tooth off either way can cause this type of problem.

 

If the battery was put in reverse then the 100 amp fuse was probably blown.
But, if the car starts then the ECU has a chance of being good.
Check the other fuses to make sure they are okay.
A test light to check both sides of the fuse has power with the key in the on position .. fast check

Maybe several bottles of injector cleaner might help the engine run better.
Did you do a compression check?

 

After the timing belt change car ran and drove fine, took it for a 30minute drive without an issue, it was still having an issue with power and to much throttle but it was drivable. This problem only started after the ecu reset. Exhaust was on in the video, the rattle is actually my guard indicator. I removed the o2, nothing different happened. I'll recheck timing tonight.

 

After the timing belt change car ran and drove fine, took it for a 30minute drive without an issue, it was still having an issue with power and to much throttle but it was drivable.

If the timing belt made such a difference then besides possibly being the injectors, you could have problems with the valves

This problem only started after the ecu reset.

Coincidence???

Did you do a compression test?

 

Just a question, is the pulse width control module a secondary computer or is it inside the ecu?

 

I assume your talking about pulse width control of one of the engine actuators in which case the actuator driver will be inside the ECU.

 

I can assume the timing belt has nothing to do with the problem and hope you have put a scan tool on and there are no logged faults. Looks like enough money has been thrown into it during the guessing game. Check your fuel pressure and flow. Maybe the pressure regulator is faulty. Simple things like pulling the vacuum line of the reg and looking for petrol in the hose. This car won't be hard to fix.

 

No I haven't compression tested it just yet.

Checked the timing, provided photos of the markers, sorry for all the white, you can see where the crank mark is (black line) vs the cam markers.

I hunted around and found both transit fuses blown in the fuse box under the bonnet as well, replaced those. All other fuses are working fine.

I tried to start the car but it wont run at all now.

 

Valve timing is correct.

 

Pay no attention to my question above.....Research wins. Anyway after much work I think I've managed to conclude either a weak fuel pump, blocked filter (even though apparently replaced) or blocked injectors. I got the car started tonight and it was fine at idle then seemed to run out of fuel. I still can't directly measure the fuel pressure but this is a country town car, short travel with almost no highway use and 99% sure on being used with bad fuel. I'm going to go over the fuel system during the week and go from there. I'll let you all know how I go.

Oh, I just wanted to thank you all for taking the time out to help, I'm sure my daughter would tell you all "Good Job!"

 

Anyway after much work I think I've managed to conclude either a weak fuel pump, blocked filter (even though apparently replaced) or blocked injectors.

Scan data will confirm a fuel issue. What's it telling you?

 

Pressure should be around 250kPa and flow 2L/minute give or take if everything is OK. Might have a crushed fuel line considering your location.

 

Pressure should be around 250kPa .

That's way too low for that engine. It's a returnless fuel system so it works on a higher pressure. It should be about 50psi which is closer to 350kPa. The fuel pressure is always the same regardless of engine speed on this system.

 

Sorry thought it was a return system. Did you read my PM about my EVO coils with builtin transistor?

 

Did you read my PM about my EVO coils with builtin transistor?

Yeah, got it. Thanks.

 

Hi guys,
ok so injectors were pretty blocked, the have been cleaned and the car starts. it will run for about 30 seconds on then develop a rough idle then stall. I can hear the pump prime when turned on. i've removed the pump assembly and the negative terminals on the pump housing where it connects to the lid are burnt, Tested the pump out of car and it works but I'm unsure if its working that well under load.

 

on a side note, looks like the pump is a cheap aftermarket item.

 

When I picked it up, the things that had been changed were
- ign coil
- 02 sensor
- spark plugs
- fuel pump
- fuel filter

You've replaced a long list of cheap items with nothing to show for your efforts which is now making this an expensive repair. Now your thinking of replacing a part that has already been replaced?

 

How about testing how many amps the actual fuel pump is drawing when it does run, see if amps drop off from the bad plug connection.

I think they normally use around 4-5 amps under load, although some use a variable speed pump which changes the amperage.

Just a thought. Have even seen new pumps that are not properly wired on sending unit before.

 

IF it is a fuel pump issue, it's not with the pump its self, more the assembly that it sits in. I'll measure some number on it later when I can be bothered with it, over it now, would be just as satisfied to watch it die in a car crusher as I would fixing it.

 

Found out why I don't have fuel pressure..... This is the hose that runs from the pump to the intank top. Safe to say this is my issue.

 

I had that similar problem with my Chrysler van.
The engine would run for a moment then stop.
Then wouldn't run at all. The engine was accessed inside the van. What a mess!!!
Knew it was a no gas problem but couldn't figure it out until the mechanic took the fuel pump out.
The line had a small hole in it. Made the problem intermittent at first.

 

It's fixed! it runs great now, replaced the hose and added hose clamps to it. Thanks for all you help brain storming guys.

 

WOW...that's a nasty looking gash on that hose. Lucky that happened inside the tank, although I suspect you would have found it pretty quick if it was on the outside.

I'm happy to hear another Hyundai is saved from the scrap heap and back on the road where it belongs...well done for sticking at it.

Scottie.

 

Ironically, my mate just dropped off a turbo, intercooler, 380cc injectors and a walbro 255 and said well done, lets put these on..... Anyone happen to know where I might be able to aquire forged pistons for a 1.5 ?

 

Make sure you have a large enough regulator and return line with the Walbro 255. I just fitted one to my EVO and it's fine because they have a 2 stage voltage supply to the pump and a big enough return setup from factory. Std pump is 160 so the Walbro has a much higher flow.

 

I was actually thinking about getting a second fuel line and modifying the fuel rail to run return. I built a turbo 1.8 lantra a few years ago and ran a malpassi rising rate so I was looking to do something similar.

 

That was a ton of parts thrown at this. Glad you found your problem.