Sorry but the issue you are missing is the add pack in new oil, simply changing the filter and replacing perhaps 1/2 quart will not replenish the TBN (ability to fight off acids etc) and over time your oil will not be doing its job. Now, how long that will take is a good question but simply changing the filter in a non oil burning engine and never the oil will result in disaster, only question is when. 1 quart every 4000 miles is not an oil burner IMO. I noted that Blackstone believes that you changed the oil before the sample which you did not. they also noted increased copper and they did not give you a number for TBN. If that is below 1 you are really really pushing it. Also assuming you are not using a bypass filter, just a normal full flow spin on. You are under estimating the value of TBN. Oil may look clean but is it doing its job?

Be interested to see how long before she sludges up or slowly dies from wear.

 

"Liability is limited to cost of analysis." Blackstone Labs.

I'm at 44K on a 2013, with ZERO leaks, burning, or otherwise consumption noted. But, I also change mine every 3,750 because it's free. If I had to pay for it? I'd change it every 3,500 +/-.

While John's testing is fine for John, I'm not ready to subscribe to that theory on a new vehicle. Not MY new vehicle, anyway...One, because I'm a hard-headed, oil changing, old school fart. And Two, I don't want to buy another vehicle or replace a $5K engine due to something that may have been avoided.

 

Well I don't recommend people with newish cars under warranty should follow my regimen, but I would suggest that you change your filter more often if you really love your car and want better oil. Otherwise, just follow the recommended oil change interval to preserve your warranty.

 

Whats the problem with changing your oil? It's false economy not to. The oil filter will only remove the larger particles and over time the molecule chains in the oil get broken up and the oil absorbs moisture. I have always changed my oil regularly every 6K miles and the engine has always stayed as good as the day I got it. Currently over 150K miles on my engine.

 

That's what people are telling me. Okay, I got a spare valve cover gasket out there, I'll be back in 30 minutes with a pic so we can test that theory. I say since there's always an adequate flow of TBNs that the filter is able to remove the gunk.... Back in a flash.

 

Whoops... gotta take my elderly mother out to eat. Maybe later I'll do the valve cover gasket.

 

TBN Total Base Number is a value that reflects the oils ability to fight corrosive acids in the oil, got nothing to do with how the oil looks or flows.

 

Out of curiosity, what lead you to opt not to change your oil? Also are you 'not' changing dino or synthetic?

 

My theory is my oil maintenance regime is beneficial for four reasons: Economy, conservation of resources, ease of maintenance, and convenience.

Economy- cost 60% less
Conservation of resources - I use 70% less oil
Ease of maintenance - I change filters without jacking up the car, in a paper cup. It takes years to make enough waste oil to fill up a jug for recycling. I can change the filter on the road in about two minutes.
Convenience - Never have to buy all that oil again, I buy one jug and five filters, it lasts all year.

I was using synthetic, but switched to dino "high mileage" oil. I don't think it made any difference.

 

You should go over to Bob is the oil guy forum and tell your tale.

Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site

Edit: Never mind. I see you have started a thread over there.

 

Okay, so I changed the gasket and (drumroll)... no gunk. None. Some varnish color, but it looks the same as it did 60k ago when I last did it.

 

Let's see. I owned a l971 VW Super Beetle (new) with an air cooled engine (hard on oil), changed the oil every 3k and the car didn't have an oil filter, only a screen that never had one thing caught in it! The car ran 150k miles when I got rid of it and was still going strong years later.

So why do we have oil filters on our Hyundai's?

I like jsinton strong drive to find out if this works or not. Go for it!

 

Yeah, I know what you mean. I had a Type 2 Bus for years... no filter. Ran great, but stay away from the highway.

 

You forgot to validate the pic with a paper in the background with jsinton and today' date to show it your picture ..

What all the blue stuff all over ?

 

RTV gasket stuff. It didn't work.

 

I said you forgot to validate your pic as being yours, who knows if you just upload from net and claim to be yours ?

Here is a couple past pic I post and made valid effort to reflect they is mine..

 

Here's a pic of my old house. I moved because I hate washing all those windows.

 

And here's my daily driver car. I only use the Hyundai when I want to fool people in to believing I'm poor.

 

Alright guys, let's get this back on topic or I'm going to shut it down. This back-and-forth, mine-is-bigger-than-yours banter is getting pretty childish.

 

Back on topic... Given the relatively inexpensive cost of changing the oil in your vehicle, why are you willing to risk permanent engine damage for the sake of saving a few dollars a year?

 

i think this experiment is very interesting. out in industry (as in non-automotive) just testing the oil is pretty standard. oil is not replaced as it is in cars, its tested before that is done. a good example is large turbines. the oil is not often replaced at all - they have an oil purifier to remove the moisture and just keep going.

now i do understand that a gasoline engine is very different due to the combustion process. however, i also believe that the numbers are stupidly over conservative for oil changes. if the testing is showing no moisture in the oil, no other unwanted contaminants (as i under acceptable limits) and the pH of the oil isn't showing its going acidic, etc., there's nothing wrong with this here. he's proving that the oil is capable of doing what he wants it to.

i would be very cautious to check that its being tested properly...and not missing some item.

 

Now, don't get me wrong, I am all for EXTENDED drain intervals, with engine oil.. I do it in my Dodge ram diesel truck, using Amsoil, and I may do it in my Hyundai as well once it comes time to change the oil. I just don't know about NOT changing the oil at all.. Not my bag, but it may work for some people.

 

my thoughts too. i'm interested to see how far this can go before the oil begins to break down and gets full of garbage though.

 

This is an awesome thread! I would be hesitant to perform such an experiment on my cars but it is super interesting. Here is a link to BTOG forum where OP started a thread for those looking for it.

One thought I have is I can replace the filter more often and still keep the HMA recommended oil change interval and my engines thank me for this.

 

My oil gets pretty black after a couple of thou; I don't need an analysis to tell me it needs changing. Unfortunately the car burns oil a little and has done since I got it so I guess it's carbon contamination.

 

My oil gets pretty black after a couple of thou; I don't need an analysis to tell me it needs changing.

The color of oil isn't a fool-proof way to determine change intervals and diesel and GDI engines are especially guilty of dirtying oil in a great hurry. In my job we have to pre-trip the bus before we leave the yard each trip. One morning I checked the oil level on a Chevrolet chassis (modern Express 4500 cutaway) and it was black, like usual but on a hunch I pulled up the oil life on the instrument panel. It showed 99% indicating that I was the first person to take it out since it came back from the maintenance shed.

 

It's a fine line you walk between getting the absolute full value out of your oil and ruining your engine, good luck.

 

On my Gen Coupe it's black immediately. There is probably 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart that does not get drained unless you turn the motor upside down.