[AUTOSPARK]

How do I get starting fluid into a fuel injection system?

You remove the big air duct from the throttle valve and spray the fluid in short bursts into the valve while the engine is being cranked.

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[AUTOSPARK]

I am almost sure the symptoms you describe is caused by the immobiser...The ring around the ignition doesnt pick up the key and the immobiser symbol is suppose to disappear as you turn ignition on.

If his ring antenna wasn't reading the ignition key the immobiliser warning light wouldn't illuminate when he switches the ignition on. The immobiliser light should switch off during engine crank when the immobiliser has authorised engine start.

The cranking of 250 rpm is a sign of this issue.

Surely that's a sign of lots of other issues that would prevent the engine from starting too though.
If the exhaust was blocked, for example, the rev counter would show 250RPM during crank. Or if there was no cylinder compression, or if he had filled the tank with diesel instead of petrol, or....

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[AUTOSPARK]

Or am I looking at ecu problems?

That's not very likely if there is spark and fuel being injected. And the cam timing being off will usually log a trouble code on an engine with CVVT.

The problem could be caused by a blockage in the exhaust system, so you could try removing the upstream O2 sensor from the exhaust to see if that allows the engine to start.

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[AUTOSPARK]

Where will I find the O2 sensor?

On the exhaust at the back of the engine, just above the catalytic converter...

If I helped you fix it, why not...

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[AUTOSPARK]

@AUTOSPARK.
Surely diagnostics would have shown a code for the O2 sensor. Just asking as no codes were shown.

I'm not suggesting the O2 sensor is faulty. I'm just suggesting you remove the sensor from the exhaust to give the exhaust gas an escape route.

If there is a blockage in the exhaust system (melted catalytic converter) the exhaust gas can't pass through the pipe and the gas backs up in the cylinders. That prevents a new charge of fresh air (oxygen) from being drawn into the cylinders. And no oxygen means no combustion, which in turn means you have an engine that cranks but wont start.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated​

 

[AUTOSPARK]

fuel pump buzzing

When is the pump buzzing?
The pump buzzing when you switch the ignition on doesn't necessarily mean it is buzzing when the engine is cranking. If the pump isn't being switched on during crank the engine won't start.

Checked all fuses, spark plug leads and ignition coils secondary circuit.

Have you checked that there is a spark at the plugs when you crank it over?

 

[AUTOSPARK]

You need a special adaptor to test fuel pressure. And I just use a spark plug or my test light to check for spark.

 

[AUTOSPARK]

I can't find this adapter 09353-38000 anywhere else, only in the Sates for $85 .

That's the genuine Hyundai adaptor. There are cheaper aftermarket alternatives.
But an even cheaper alternative (free) is just remove the fuel rail with the injectors, then crank the engine for a couple of seconds while looking to see if there is pressurised fuel spraying out of the injectors. That tests fuel pressure and injector pulse at the same time, and should only take 10~15mins on a kappa engine with the injectors right at the front. The fuel rail is usually held on by two 10mm bolts. With the bolts removed the rail should lift off the engine with the 4 injectors attached.

 

[AUTOSPARK]

Not entirely free as it will probably need new injector seals due to the age.

Only if your really unlucky. I've done that test a number of times and have never had to replace an injector seal.

 

[AUTOSPARK]

Update on my car: it's is back on the road after fitting a new fuel pump.

That's great to hear. And thanks for talking the time to come back and update the thread so we all know the outcome