AFAIK, Hyundai recommends 5W-20 for V6, not sure about the I4.

 

QUOTE (spex @ Mar 1 2010, 12:34 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=301004

AFAIK, Hyundai recommends 5W-20 for V6, not sure about the I4.

All car mfg's are pushing light weight oil.

Simple reason - slightly better gas mileage.

 

QUOTE (spex @ Mar 1 2010, 01:34 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=301004

AFAIK, Hyundai recommends 5W-20 for V6, not sure about the I4.

I4 is 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30

BTW same motor is Austrailia specs 10W30 - 20w50

I know that some people will say "only 5w20" but listen to your car at idle with 5w20 and then with 5w30 or a 10w30 and then tell me what wt you want in your motor.

As I said a synthetic 10w30 is really only as thick as a conventional 5w30.

 

QUOTE (ryland @ Mar 1 2010, 11:17 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=300997

Just wanted to tell you guys that my motor sounds much quieter with castrol edge 10w30! I also have not seen a drop in gas milage. I chose the 10w30 over the 5w30 because looking at the numbers the 10w30 is only as thick as a thin conventional 5w30. I also have no need for the colder starting ability as I park my car in a heated garage at my house and drive to a heated garage in the city. also it dosent get cold where I live and the 10w30 is good down to 0F acording to Hyundai and far below that acording to Castrol. I also only use Hyuindai oil filter FYI.

You're a smart man that asked the right questions. The right questions were, "Why did car
manufacturers start using water-thin oil", and "will my engine be OK with slightly thicker
oil".

 

QUOTE (ryland @ Mar 1 2010, 12:39 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=301008

I4 is 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30

As I said a synthetic 10w30 is really only as thick as a conventional 5w30.

Did you read that somewhere? That makes no sense. By definition, any 10w oil is thicker than any 5w oil and therefore does not flow as easily. The fact that one is synthetic is irrelevant.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficie...uestion1641.htm

"Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the time required for a st¬andard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in centistokes (cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100 °C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity)."

 

QUOTE (ryland @ Mar 1 2010, 01:17 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=300997

Just wanted to tell you guys that my motor sounds much quieter with castrol edge 10w30!

Sound is a good initial tool to judge mechanical stuff. But when judging performance/quality of engine oil, something more scientific method shoul be used. Most trucking/aviation fleet companies use oil anaylsis lab result on used engine oil. They look for microscopic metal debris and such. It's always best to use what manufacturers recommend espeically if your vehicle is still in factory warranty.

 

I use 0 weight oils in my cars/trucks and I live where it might get down to 35 degrees.. :grin:
I have read that even at 75 degrees 0 weight helps with LESS wear. Only synthetic oils can get down to 0 weight. (Cold rating).
I have also read that Castro Edge is a good oil. So if you feel good about it- Keep it up! :banana:

You can't go wrong.

Yuma,

 

QUOTE (Blue07 @ Mar 1 2010, 03:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=301045

Did you read that somewhere? That makes no sense. By definition, any 10w oil is thicker than any 5w oil and therefore does not flow as easily. The fact that one is synthetic is irrelevant.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficie...uestion1641.htm

"Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the time required for a st¬andard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in centistokes (cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100 °C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity)."

Your wrong, umm read your own post about cSt numbers then look at the oils pds

Edge 10w30 has a 40C of 60.46 and a 100C of 9.82

Pennzoil conventional 5w30 has a 40C of 63.9 and a 100C of 10.5

I dont know if you really know what that means or it you only know how to cut and paste but basicly that means that when both hot and cold the castol edge 10w30 IS thinner that pennzoil conventional 5w30.

look for yourself

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...astrol_EDGE.pdf

http://www.pennzoil.com/documents/Pennzoil...onventional.pdf

 

QUOTE (ryland @ Mar 1 2010, 12:17 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=300997

Just wanted to tell you guys that my motor sounds much quieter with castrol edge 10w30! I also have not seen a drop in gas milage. I chose the 10w30 over the 5w30 because looking at the numbers the 10w30 is only as thick as a thin conventional 5w30. I also have no need for the colder starting ability as I park my car in a heated garage at my house and drive to a heated garage in the city. also it dosent get cold where I live and the 10w30 is good down to 0F acording to Hyundai and far below that acording to Castrol. I also only use Hyuindai oil filter FYI.

Pardon me, I don't mean to flame your post but...

You're saying you got "great results" from using Castrol 10w-30. After reading it, what you're really saying is your motor is quieter now, therefore you assume great results.

I suggest your motor is quieter because you put thicker oil in there, it has little to do with the Castrol. You could have put any old regular 10w-30 oil in there, and the motor would be quieter.

The real benefits to using expensive Castrol like that is long life of oil, better cold weather starting, lots of detergents, and greater stability under extreme conditions. It's actually worse for you motor if you change your oil a lot.. Here's a quote from the Paradise Garage Mobil 1 Test page:

"Engine wear actually decreases as (synthetic) oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it."

Another illogical thing that happens when you use synthetic oil is most of the engine wear occurs in the first 3000 miles.. Here's another quote:

"While the wear metals all accumulated steadily over the course of the test, the highest concentrations of accumulation per mile occurred in the first 3,000 miles of the test! From the 3,000-mile mark all the way to 18,000 miles, only lead showed an increase in per-mile wear beyond 3,000 miles. Yet even with an increased wear rate, lead wore the least in terms of absolute wear. For iron and copper, the longer the oil remained in service, the lower the wear rate got.

In case it isn't obvious yet, this means that the most wear occurs in the first 3,000 miles."

So what I'm trying to say is unless you have extreme conditions or you want to leave the oil in there for more than 12k miles, you're just wasting your time using synthetic oil. Better off sticking with cheap dino.

Here's the study, it's really interesting but complicated:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

 

I decided to use the edge because I plan on going 7500 miles. Thats the max OCI you can do and still maintain your warranty. Your link only tests mobil 1 so if you believe everything you read then I guess I'm ok since edge has "8 x better wear protection than mobil 1" .

Look guys thats all I'm going to say, try it if you want I just thought I'd share my observations. I've looked at plenty (too much) data to support what oil I'm useing.

 

welcome to the forums, i know that having ur post moved around can be quite irritating but if u decide to argue with certain moderators u will recieve a threatning message stating that you will be banned. some people dont know how to use the little power they are given and just like to have the last word.
i guess iv learned to just deal with it and disregaurd those "use the search feature" comments which offer no input or help. i used to visit regularly but i just ended up becoming upset with the replys i was getting (from mods not members) and lately i just tend to stay away from posting anything in the forums.
Just make sure u dont call him out because u dont want to hurt him while hes fufilling his dreams of patroling the forums.

 

QUOTE (ryland @ Mar 1 2010, 05:38 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=301095

Your wrong, umm read your own post about cSt numbers then look at the oils pds

Edge 10w30 has a 40C of 60.46 and a 100C of 9.82

Pennzoil conventional 5w30 has a 40C of 63.9 and a 100C of 10.5

I dont know if you really know what that means or it you only know how to cut and paste but basicly that means that when both hot and cold the castol edge 10w30 IS thinner that pennzoil conventional 5w30.

look for yourself

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...astrol_EDGE.pdf

http://www.pennzoil.com/documents/Pennzoil...onventional.pdf

I appreciate this research and stand corrected. Thank you. Perhaps I should have noticed this before, but this "cold" measure of the multi-viscosity oil test takes place at 40*C or 104*F. That's not cold! I noticed that at 104*F (40*C) the Pennzoil 5w-20 was rated at 47.3 cSt but their 5w-30 was rated at 63.9 cSt. If this were a "true" cold test, wouldn't Pennzoil's 5w20 and 5w30 have the same reading? Could it be that at 104*F, the polymers in the 5w30 oil had already started to unwind and thicken the oil compared to the polymers in the 5w20 oil?

I no longer question your statement that at 104*F the 10w30 synthetic oil flows easier than the 5w30 conventional oil. But I am not convinced that at 0*F, when the polymers are more fully coiled, the 10w30 will flow easier than the 5w30. How does one interpret the CSS and MRV test listed in the Pennzoil page? You clearly have knowledge in this area. If you can shed any more light on this subject I would sincerely appreciate it.

 

I wanna add ive used always on any of my cars whats on the oil cap under the hood.My V6 calls for 5W-20. The time before this i had to go with 5W-30 which in the manual stated it would be ok.(being that i did not want to drive cross town i went with it) As many members here know i own more than one car and i often switch while others sit.The sonata had sat for about 3 days straight and i started her and i got this TERRIBLE grinding screeeeeching noise i mean it was bad.All i wanna say is I WILL NEVER use anything else then what is on the oil cap.My sonata on 5W-20 not only gets great gas mileage but is also quiet.
fftopic:
BTW IMO this topic should not have been moved im getting tired of sonata related topics being moved.

 

I had some more time to review the Castrol and Pennzoil viscosity charts. I also researched a little about these tests. I ran across this brief explanation of oil flow and viscosity:

"Measurement of a fluid’s resistance to flow. The common metric unit of absolute viscosity is the poise, which is defined as the force in dynes required to move a surface one square centimeter in area past a parallel surface at a speed of one centimeter per second, with the surfaces separated by a fluid film one centimeter thick. For convenience, the CentiPoise (cP) — one one-hundredth of a poise — is the unit customarily used. Laboratory measurements of viscosity normally use the force of gravity to produce flow through a capillary tube (viscometer) at a controlled temperature. This measurement is called kinematic viscosity. The unit of kinematic viscosity is the stoke, expressed in square centimeters per second. The more customary unit is the centistoke (cSt) — one one-hundredth of a stoke. Kinematic viscosity can be related to absolute viscosity by the equation:

cSt = cP ÷ fluid density"

Here's where it gets interesting. The Castrol and Pennzoil charts both contained cold temperature oil tests. (Those tests were in centipoise - cP.) If I read the charts correctly, at -30*C (-22*F) the Castrol 5w30 (synthetic) had a viscosity of 4,075 cP and the Pennzoil 5w30 (conventional) had a viscosity of 5,800 cP. I know nothing about a centipoise scale, but if it is linear, it appears the 5w30 conventional oil resists flow 42% more than 5w30 synthetic oil at -30*F. Did I get that right? The same test for the 10w30 was performed at -25*C(-13*F). At -13*F, the Castrol 10w30 (synthetic) had a viscosity of 4,316 cP and the Pennzoil 10w30 (conventional) had a viscosity of 6,170 cP. This seems to indicate that at very cold temperatures, the conventional 10w30 oil also resists flow 43% more than the synthetic 10w30 oil. To me, this proves that viscosity ratings can be misleading and that synthetic really is better for cold weather. If I interpret these number correctly, even the conventional 5w30 (5,800 cP) resists flow about 30% more than synthetic 10w30 (4,316 cP). Thanks again Rylan.

 

Here's your oil topic back, guys...just a present from me to you. :thumbsup:

 

Thank you. A lot of useful banter here.

 

QUOTE (Blue07 @ Mar 2 2010, 07:47 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=301250

To me, this proves that viscosity ratings can be misleading and that synthetic really is better for cold weather.

I think that's been proven by tests and anecdotally by millions of cold weather users.

I don't believe any of the other claims about synthetic have been proven, at least to any significant degree.

 

In hot weather, conventional wisdom dictates a heavier viscosity. The debate on brands is endless. Send a sample of your oil to Blackstone and they will tell you if it is doing a good job, if you are changing it often enough and if there are substances in the oil suggesting wear or impending trouble. Well worth the $20 +/-

 

Hello People, Some time ago my regular Job (NDI) with the Air force called for me to analyse engine oil from F16 fighter planes, it is measure in PPM or particle per million, those engines do really rev and the oil is almost as thin as water,we have to sample the oil everytime they flew. I can say that today engines are manufacture using precise measurements via computers so there is no much tolerance in the small holes where the oil has to pass thru. Once I remember pouring some 10w50 in a chevy quad four engine, results = blew a seal and have to take the transmision off to replace the seal. A thicker oil 10w30 would be slower going thru the same holes than the 5w20 ( viscocity in simple words = oposition to flow) you need to lubricate the moving parts quickly. As somebody mentioned I aslo use the Manufacturer recomendations 5w20, amsoil is my choice for the 3.3 and it is changed every 8k miles and I keep a record in my file, thus far I have change it once. The car only have 13256 miles. My recomendation is to use what the Manufacturer said, it may save you trouble down the road in case your engine fails and the warranty people find out that you was using the wrong oil.

 

QUOTE (caballoballo @ Mar 19 2010, 07:13 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=305525

Hello People, Some time ago my regular Job (NDI) with the Air force called for me to analyse engine oil from F16 fighter planes, it is measure in PPM or particle per million, those engines do really rev and the oil is almost as thin as water,we have to sample the oil everytime they flew. I can say that today engines are manufacture using precise measurements via computers so there is no much tolerance in the small holes where the oil has to pass thru. Once I remember pouring some 10w50 in a chevy quad four engine, results = blew a seal and have to take the transmision off to replace the seal. A thicker oil 10w30 would be slower going thru the same holes than the 5w20 ( viscocity in simple words = oposition to flow) you need to lubricate the moving parts quickly. As somebody mentioned I aslo use the Manufacturer recomendations 5w20, amsoil is my choice for the 3.3 and it is changed every 8k miles and I keep a record in my file, thus far I have change it once. The car only have 13256 miles. My recomendation is to use what the Manufacturer said, it may save you trouble down the road in case your engine fails and the warranty people find out that you was using the wrong oil.

Even if you use Amsoil 5w20 you may be useing the "wrong" oil, or atleast for warranty purposes. The only Amsoil that would meet warrenty standards is their XL line of oils. All the rest of their oils are not API certified. Even though I'm useing 10w30 it still meets warranty standards as 10w30 is acceptable according to Hyundai and castrol edge is API certified.

 

QUOTE (ryland @ Mar 31 2010, 10:51 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=308978

Even if you use Amsoil 5w20 you may be useing the "wrong" oil, or atleast for warranty purposes. The only Amsoil that would meet warrenty standards is their XL line of oils. All the rest of their oils are not API certified. Even though I'm useing 10w30 it still meets warranty standards as 10w30 is acceptable according to Hyundai and castrol edge is API certified.

I am not sure where you are getting your info from about Amsoil 5w 20 not being the right oil as far as warranty goes. Could you tell us who do you know that used Amsoil and was denied warranty after his motor blew up for using Amsoil?

 

QUOTE (ryland @ Mar 31 2010, 02:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=308978

Even if you use Amsoil 5w20 you may be useing the "wrong" oil, or atleast for warranty purposes. The only Amsoil that would meet warrenty standards is their XL line of oils. All the rest of their oils are not API certified. Even though I'm useing 10w30 it still meets warranty standards as 10w30 is acceptable according to Hyundai and castrol edge is API certified.

My friend, XL 5w30 is the one I am using. You can use whatever oil grade or brand you want, it is your car, your warranty and you will be the one paying for repair.