QUOTE (Meagain @ Sep 3 2009, 11:23 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=260923

OK, I have my new Ltd at the dealer for service. They gave me the 2.7L 4-speed GLS as a loaner.

One thing I had an issue with in my car is the "revving". From a stop, I'll hit the gas and it revs high (rpm meter goes high also) but the car doesn't really "go". This Loaner GLS has great pickup compared to my Ltd. The shifting, etc. is much smoother. It also seems a bit quieter. But Mostly, it "goes" from a stop, whereas mine revs and takes time to think about things. I've merged onto heavy traffic and am trying to not gun the pedal but I have to a bit to get up to speed to avoid an accident. Basically my Ltd. complains about this.

My Ltd has 70-75 miles.
GLS loaner has 3500 miles.

I realize mine is no where near broken in, but when I told the service guy I'm averaging 13 mpg so far, he said break in is 5000 miles. Am I having a "not broken in" experience with my Ltd or should I be concerned?

Right now, I'd trade in my engine for the smaller 2.7L 4-speed!

Meagain,

I know you have complained about this revving before. There is something definitely amiss with your transmission if it is slipping like this.

My 3.3 will burn rubber from a standing start. Absolutely no slippage and has done so from the time I bought it with 3 miles on the odometer. It now has 6,010 on the odo.

While the service department still has it, hopefully they will get it corrected for you.

Definitely a big problem.

David <><

 

It's not slipping. I don't know anything about gears and such. Don't even know how to drive a stick, but I would describe it that it takes a long time or a lot on the gas to get it into a gear. The GLS just had way better pickup.

I talked to the service people and they said it's an entirely different engine and I can't compare but they seemed to say what I am feeling was appropriate. IDK. But it sure makes a ton of revvy noise when I get into heavy traffic and try to match their speed. The GLS didn't do this. It took off just fine on me.

IDK - Maybe the shift points are different?

(They didn't fix my hatch rattle. IDK what they were smoking or what smooth road they went on, but it rattles still)

EDIT: I fixed the hatch rattle with electrical tape. Now I just have to convince them to fix the striker properly. I go back on Tuesday ONLY because the tape won't last.

 

I would suggest you test drive another 3.3 to compare to your 3.3.
I have test driven both engines and the 3.3 has definitely a better "push" feeling in any condition.
I suspect some problem on your 3.3.

 

A possible thought? I read (somewhere???) that the transmission *learns* you're driving habits and styles - so, if you do not like the "shift points", or the like - you simply force it to re-learn from scratch.

I have the 2.7 4 speed on my Tucson. Remove the ground cable from the battery, AND, leave some lights on for like 15-20 minutes (to verify, you will lose all radio presets doing it correctly) and then re-connect the ground wire.

Now, in the next 50-100 miles, the tranny, or computer, or whatever - will re-learn throttle tip-in, and shift points.

I tried this after my last knee surgery - throttle tip-in was making me surge hard at take-off...shrug, doing the above *seemed* to help me?

May help, or not, but it's free <grin>

HTH

 

QUOTE (PeterC @ Sep 3 2009, 07:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261024

A possible thought? I read (somewhere???) that the transmission *learns* you're driving habits and styles - so, if you do not like the "shift points", or the like - you simply force it to re-learn from scratch.

I have the 2.7 4 speed on my Tucson. Remove the ground cable from the battery, AND, leave some lights on for like 15-20 minutes (to verify, you will lose all radio presets doing it correctly) and then re-connect the ground wire.

Now, in the next 50-100 miles, the tranny, or computer, or whatever - will re-learn throttle tip-in, and shift points.

I tried this after my last knee surgery - throttle tip-in was making me surge hard at take-off...shrug, doing the above *seemed* to help me?

May help, or not, but it's free <grin>

HTH

Or you could probably ask them at the shop to reset it for you while it's in there. A friend of mine bought an 08 and had issues with his transmission shifting from 2nd to 3rd. One of the things they tried was resetting the computer so it would "learn" again. Probably takes them a few seconds to do...

 

Jaydee - did your friends car get fixed after that?

What is this reprogramming called? And does the above battery trick do the same thing?
Is it for sure it can "learn"?

 

Hi Meagain,

I think I was experiencing what you are when I first got my car. I used to drive a Grand Am GT and when I touch the pedal, it would just fly. I never felt afraid of making those left turns at a light zipping through small breaks in oncoming traffic.

When I first started driving my Santa Fe Limited, I was prepared fo a slower acceleration as it is a heavier car. One time I was making a left turn at a light and I though I was going to get hit by the oncoming traffic because although I was pressing on the gas fairly hard (at least what I though was hard enough), it was going really slow. I believe this is what you are experiencing.

After a few more weeks and close to 2500 km, I started to feel good about the car. Meaning, either I adapted to the car or the car adapted to me. I discovered that there is also a "sweet spot" when you accelerate from a stopped position where if you pressed the pedal down at a certain rate and depth, the car would accelerate fast. Probably not as fast as my old car, but fast enough for me to think that the car has some pop. I've never gotten my tires to squeal like someone posted. I've never tried though.

Hope that helps. Be patient. Oh, I should mention that having the AC on will slow your acceleration too.


QUOTE (Meagain @ Sep 3 2009, 07:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261010

It's not slipping. I don't know anything about gears and such. Don't even know how to drive a stick, but I would describe it that it takes a long time or a lot on the gas to get it into a gear. The GLS just had way better pickup.

I talked to the service people and they said it's an entirely different engine and I can't compare but they seemed to say what I am feeling was appropriate. IDK. But it sure makes a ton of revvy noise when I get into heavy traffic and try to match their speed. The GLS didn't do this. It took off just fine on me.

IDK - Maybe the shift points are different?

(They didn't fix my hatch rattle. IDK what they were smoking or what smooth road they went on, but it rattles still)

EDIT: I fixed the hatch rattle with electrical tape. Now I just have to convince them to fix the striker properly. I go back on Tuesday ONLY because the tape won't last.

 

QUOTE (Meagain @ Sep 3 2009, 09:10 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261068

Jaydee - did your friends car get fixed after that?

What is this reprogramming called? And does the above battery trick do the same thing?
Is it for sure it can "learn"?

It is "for sure". See reply in the other thread about shift points where you posted. I dropped a link there to an explanation for how these systems work. Your SF has such a system. "For sure".

With so few miles, it probably isn't time just yet for you to "reprogram" the system with your right foot. Wait for a couple of hundred miles before you start hammering the right pedal to try the technique originally described for the Sonata that supposedly makes this happen in a hurry. Alternately, and again, after waiting a couple of hundred, just start pushing the vehicle to behave as you would prefer, and eventually it will start to adjust to that. And when you drop back by the dealer, ask the service guy if he's familiar with the technique described in that earlier post for getting it to adapt more quickly.

 

Guys ,

I think is about "learning curve" here.

Like you may read few threads back I had an accident with my wife's Santa Fe.

It had at that time about 1000km and it was driving very nice , shifting almost perfect .

Now, I got the car back from the garage after 3 months and everything is OK except the shifting point .

They kept it almost 2 months and half with battery disconnected and probably it was reset back to the default settings.

Actually is doing exactly how Meagain was explaining.

Probably, I'll need another few hundred km to re-learn my style.

 

Buckets of hope in this thread.

Yea, the Ltd needs a bigger push on the pedal, does a loud engine sound vroom (noisy/revvy), the rpm thing goes high, shift seemed 'big' like I was driving a manual like it couldn't find it or had to go high to find it, and I'm not hauling a** (no pickup).
GLS required WAY less pedal push, no noisy engine sound, and it took off like crazy. I didn't pay attention to the RPM meter on it, but it sort of did all this SO much more quietly and REALLY smooth.

That's my best description. And it freeked me out for sure as this has bothered me from day 1.

So unless someone says otherwise, I'll wipe this off my worry list and keep all this in the back of my head for when I get more miles logged. Will ask Service about it Tuesday when I go in for my darned crooked 2nd row & hatch rattle issue. You guys are awesome, Thank you! I'm very glad to hear the car has this adaptive thing and it's programmable.

Here's the other thread on this for anyone wanting to read more http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t36793-santa...s-vs-sonata.htm

 

Meagain, I too think it's related to the "adaptive" drivetrain. These days, auto mag editors like to talk about "tip in", which is how the factory engineers has programmed the throttle response on initial pedal application. They might complain one car's tip-in being too aggresive, while another is too sedate for fuel saving reasons.

Bear in mind virtually all cars these days are drive-by-wire. Their is no longer a steel cable that mechanically connects the loud pedal to the throttle plate. A few cars - like some Nissans - don't even have a throttle plate. It's all sensors and actuators - governed by software. So drive you car consistently, and it will soon chart a good mapping between your actions and your intentions.

That said, you really need to spend a bit more time test driving cars. A quick 15-min loop around the block - with the salesperson yakking away - is no way to evaluate a car. Ditch the sales guy/gal if you possibly can. Surrender your spouse and kids as ransom if that's what it takes. Pick a car that's similarly equipped to what you want, but not the right color, because you are going to put this puppy through its paces. Low speed, high speed, illegal speed. Slow turn, fast turn, and sudden avoid-the-squirrel turn. Slow braking, fast braking, and repeat thrice panic braking. Smooth road, rough road, and off-road if that's your cup-of-tea. Gentle acceleration, brisk acceleration, jack-rabbit... well, may be not... unless it is a demo car. :devil:

Don't go in your Sunday's best when you go car shoppin'. For one thing, it's not good to look good when you're looking for a good deal. Another thing, you're gonna crawl all over - and under - the car after you get back from the test drive. After, because that's when some problems would show up.

Don't do this unless you are seriously considering buying at this dealership. DOn't waste their time any more than you want them to waste yours. Spread the testing across several dealers if your are unsure or bashful.

If more people would do this. There would not be as many folks asking why their brand new car is having this and that problem. And you will be much happier that your new car is the right choice.

 

Volfy - Thanks. I already have had the car 2 weeks now but have basically only driven it to the store and around my subdivision to try to sort out my rattle. Just a tad under 100 miles now. I went to my dealer to drive another and boy, it's hard but I really think this other one was just quieter engine-wise. It has 112 miles. It did the rev thing but didn't seem go through all these machinations to get to 20-23 mph like mine does, and the engine sound was softer sounding to me. Or I'm losing my mind.

I didn't choose this one for one reason or another but he's claiming it had less miles than it did at the time so I'm confused unless they got it in after I bought and he's mistaken. At the time, one had 900 miles and one had 99 miles with a paint chip in the side mirror. I saw no chip in this but frankly if it is on the other side - a chip seems minor at this point.
It didn't rattle and the seats fold evenly (important to me).

Funnily, a chain of goofy events finds they STILL didn't cash my check and the salesman presented to me the option that 'maybe' if the title and all didn't go through yet (how could it if I didn't pay for it?), that maybe I can do a swaperoo. My hopes are not up on that.

 

QUOTE (Meagain @ Sep 4 2009, 03:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261269

Volfy - Thanks. I already have had the car 2 weeks now but have basically only driven it to the store and around my subdivision to try to sort out my rattle. Just a tad under 100 miles now. I went to my dealer to drive another and boy, it's hard but I really think this other one was just quieter engine-wise. It has 112 miles. It did the rev thing but didn't seem go through all these machinations to get to 20-23 mph like mine does, and the engine sound was softer sounding to me. Or I'm losing my mind.

I didn't choose this one for one reason or another but he's claiming it had less miles than it did at the time so I'm confused unless they got it in after I bought and he's mistaken. At the time, one had 900 miles and one had 99 miles with a paint chip in the side mirror. I saw no chip in this but frankly if it is on the other side - a chip seems minor at this point.
It didn't rattle and the seats fold evenly (important to me).

Funnily, a chain of goofy events finds they STILL didn't cash my check and the salesman presented to me the option that 'maybe' if the title and all didn't go through yet (how could it if I didn't pay for it?), that maybe I can do a swaperoo. My hopes are not up on that.

Meagain,

If you can do a swap, go for it. I once was offered the same thing on a new Focus. I did it and was never sorry.

Once again, I say, it sounds as though you have a tranny problem. As I have said before, I test drove and bought a Santa Fe with 3 miles on it. I was there when it was coming off the truck.

The engine and tranny performed the same as compared to the second car we had at that time, an 07 Azera with the exact same tranny and engine.

You should never have an undue amount of revving. Does your tranny feel as though it is slipping, such as a manual transmission feels when the clutch is very slowly being engaged?

To repeat myself, my Santa Fe never felt sluggish, ever. If fact, when I first drove it, I looked over at my wife in the passenger seat and commented how spry this vehicle was for being heavier than the Azera.

Rethink this vehicle. It has more problems than you need and push for the swap. Time is important because once the State Vehicle Department processes the paper work, it's too late. Although, it is always possible that someone at the dealership "knows" someone at the DMV. :grin:

One more thing, as Columbo used to say, driving short jaunts at slow speeds is very hard on a vehicle. It never has a chance to fully warm up. You need to get your vehicle up to speeds of 50 and sixty miles per hour once in a while.

David <><

 

David - I will accept a swap if they let me. Sales guy said if the title, etc. has been sent off, then they can't do it. Not sure what that has to do with much or I'd be willing to pay a fee, but that's what he's saying. I've had the car 2 weeks now and he fears it might've gotten sent off despite the fact they didn't cash the check yet. I can't imagine they'd do that but it's not my dealership.

It's not 'so' much the engine as it is the other little issues, namely the 2nd row being askew to where when folded, there's a 1" difference at the top which morphs down the seatbacks. I 'spose that wouldn't bother some but I'm going to be using it for cargo constantly and having that lip there is problematic. Salesman 'Promised" it will be fixed as part of the deal even if I have to get a new seat but yesterday the Hyundai service rep guy told Service - 'no it can't be fixed'.

If the title/documents were sent off, I'm stuck I guess. ??? I've had it 2 weeks but did pay for it yet LOL

Trans does NOT feel like it's slipping (to me), but I've not experienced a car newer than 12 years old slipping so maybe they act different now. It's more like it has a hard time getting to 20-30 where the engine sort of roars. Gosh. Maybe I can do a Youtube vid off my iPhone. Maybe you guys will tell me I'm crazy. Probably!
Once it gets going, it's great. The shifting when going faster is very nice, quiet, smooth. It's getting to 1 or 2 that's questionable which is most of my driving.

This other Ltd I tried today seemed to handle this better and more quietly. Was it extreme? No. But it seemed more happy going from 0-20/25 ish to me. I drove mine around a bit today to get to about 50 but ended early due to construction.

I likely won't get lucky enough to be able to swap. In which case, I'll fix the seat issue myself if I have to and hope the adaptive thing or software update chills it a bit.

 

QUOTE (Meagain @ Sep 3 2009, 11:10 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261068

Jaydee - did your friends car get fixed after that?

What is this reprogramming called? And does the above battery trick do the same thing?
Is it for sure it can "learn"?

I did a little reading, and searching, and the following is from a TSB on my 06 Tucson - so, I wasn't just dreaming <G>

<snip>
This TSB supersedes TSB# 01-40-002 to include additional information.

DESCRIPTION:

The transaxle control module (TCM) internal logic allows the TCM to compensate for mechanical tolerance changes which may occur during the life of the transaxle due to normal wear.If battery power is disconnected from the TCM, the adaptive learning is cancelled.

Whenever battery power is disconnected from the TCM or a new transaxle is installed, follow the procedure below to restoreadaptive learning:
NOTE
Transaxle shift quality should not be evaluated until adaptive learning has been completed.


TCM logic was revised to allow adaptive learning to occur at a lower temperature on th e dates shown below.
NOTE
Adaptive learning does not begin until the ATF is above the temperature shown below:

MODEL ADAPTIVE LEARNING BEGINS AT:
PREVIOUS NEW
122°F (50°C) 68°F (20°C)
Accent
All


Elantra
-11/21/01
11/21/01-

Tiburon
1997-2001 MY
2003 MY

Sonata
-11/30/01
11/30/01-

Santa Fe 2.4L
2001-02 MY
2003 MY

Santa Fe 2.7L
-1/17/02
1/17/02-

Santa Fe 3.5L

All

XG300
All


XG350

All


ADAPTIVE LEARNING PROCEDURE:
Attach a Hi-Scan Pro and select "Automatic Transaxle" menu, "Current Data" menu and "Trans Temp. Sensor".
Drive the vehicle until the ATF temperature is above the temperature shown on page 1.
Accelerate the vehicle through several 1-2-3-4 upshifts at small throttle openings (approximately 25-30% TPS) until shift flare and shift shock no longer occur.
NOTE
Adaptive learning for the 2-3 shift takes longer than for the 1-2, or 3-4 shifts.

<snip>

HTH

 

QUOTE (Meagain @ Sep 4 2009, 05:11 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261281

David - I will accept a swap if they let me. Sales guy said if the title, etc. has been sent off, then they can't do it. Not sure what that has to do with much or I'd be willing to pay a fee, but that's what he's saying.

Once the vehicle has officially "changed hands" as a consequence of an official state title transfer, it's "used", not "new", and it's going to impact the value of the vehicle.

 

QUOTE (PeterC @ Sep 4 2009, 10:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261327

Adaptive learning for the 2-3 shift takes longer than for the 1-2, or 3-4 shifts.

Yup. And I'll bet it's the 2-3 shift that Meagain is noticing.

So far, it sounds as though the vehicle has been babied a fair bit with low-key in-town driving (nothing wrong with that during break-in), but hasn't had the kind of driving that creates shift points that keep an enthusiast interested. Now that Meagain has 100+ miles on the clock, it's probably OK to start working that right pedal harder. Her SF probably hasn't "learned" who's boss yet!

 

QUOTE (canderson @ Sep 4 2009, 09:16 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261328

Once the vehicle has officially "changed hands" as a consequence of an official state title transfer, it's "used", not "new", and it's going to impact the value of the vehicle.

I am quite aware of what you wrote.

However, if it has not been processed yet, it can be stopped.

I have first had knowledge of this. My paperwork for my first 2000 Focus sat on someones desk at DMV for over a week. The dealer was able to stop it because it had not begun the actual process.

David <><

 

David - I'd be curious as to how on earth they found the paperwork at the state. I'd think it would be a nightmare to track down.

We went out to eat and I drove. Hubby explained to me better what's going on. He said that 1st speed is whatever it takes to make it go. Like 5 mph or so. Then 2nd is the first 'shift' action I'd see. Is that correct?

He says what I'm explaining is that it's taking too long or finding it tricky to get to 2nd gear? To get to around 18 mph or so. Or does it loudly or something. I'm going to ask him again and maybe have him drive it.

Peter - "Accelerate the vehicle through several 1-2-3-4 upshifts at small throttle openings (approximately 25-30% TPS) until shift flare and shift shock no longer occur."

I'm really 'transmission stupid" and need to learn how to drive properly with this shifting stuff. My old car, I never noticed anything. Just hit the gas and it went. It did the shifting super quiet. Probably part of my problem - living with that car for 12 years.

Made a little video going to the restaurant and if it came out OK, will upload to youtube tomorrow.

Someone posted on that "Poll" thread about me buying the car at this point cuz of the community/people here. I confess it played a part. You guys rock.

 

Meagain, you simply need to log some miles on your Santa Fe. No automobile can stand up to the international scrutiny yours has received in its first hundred miles. This discussion about swapping it for another vehicle is absurd... like talking about divorce in the middle of the honeymoon.

Just give it some road time, and give yourself permission to ignore its quirks during this period.

 

Hello,

Stupid is as stupid was - or however that goes (am hearing Tom Hanks doing Gump in my head right now...

I used to work hard on a website that taught people how to do fairly basic stuff to their computer - how to wipe and reinstall Windows, what is Defrag, and the like - if it's about something you're "not into" - you will not understand the lingo - and therefore it is very hard for what somone who is into it to make sense to you.

I have no idea what your *thing* is - but my Wife is seriously into baking AND cooking - notice the "AND" back there? To me they are one and the same - not to Cindy! THere is a way big diference to her, if you say she is into baking, or into cooking - she is into BOTH baking AND cooking - shrug???

What is the difference between a cup and 8 fluid ounces??? I have no clue!! Am I dumb??


Anyhow - to the point.

This is simply *my* thinking here? If you once per day, pick an on-ramp, or a road with a higher speed limit, and once per day (or 15 times in one day), you turn a corner onto that ramp (am painting a picture here), and you push on the gas pedal bout 1/3 to halfway down, and keep the pedal in the SAME POSITION until you get to 65 miles per hour on the speedo, and then ease off the gas pedal til you are cruising, you will have done what is being suggested.

When you did the right turn onto the ramp, you are generally driving rather slow - 10-15 miles per hour, you then push dowh on the gas pedal with your right foot bout 1/3 to halfway, will make the engine roar, and will make you drop into first gear, and since you will hold your foot in the same place on the pedal, you will go "up through the gears" *shifting from first, into second, and then at about 40 MPH (miles per hour) the car will *shift from second gear, into thirs gear, and then around 65 MPH (if you did not push too hard on the gas pedal) it will *shift* from third gear into fourth gear.

By doing this every day for a couple of weeks (planning to do this, picking a good piece of road) - no traffic, no interruptions, so you can hold the gas pedal in the same place from 10MPH to 60 or 70MPH you will actually teach your car how to shift.

OR - you can do the same thing 15-20 times over and over and over in one day if you are in a hurry. (to change how your cars acts)

About a automatic transmission. They made different kinds, with different gear counts. I have an automatic with 4 forward gears, and one reverse gear. (automatic means stick it in "D" and go, or in "R" and go backwards - 2 pedals instead of three)

A lower gear gos slower, and is for going slower. Your husband is correct, First gear is usually just to get the car going. Some basic thoughts:
The lighter you push down on the gas pedal, the sooner the car shifts out of one gear, and *up* into the next - example...

dead stop, you are in "D" for drive with brakes on. You step down on the gas pedal (crack the throttle, give it some gas, etc) lightly, say 10% of the pedal travel (distance from it just not being touched, to 'floored' where you push the gas pedal to the floor - called "Wide Open Throttle" or WOT) ...anyhow, you are at a stop, and you take off like you normally would, just a little bit on the gas - you are in first gear, bout 10MPH the car will leave first gear, and go into second gear, at about 25MPH, the car will leave second gear, and go inot third gear, at about 30-35MPH the car will leave third gear and go into fourth gear.


Now - same thing, but you are in a hurry to go! So, you take your foot off the brake, and push the gas pedal to the floor! And you hold it there! (no traffic, no cops, and you are in a big hurry!

So you floor the gas pedal to the floor - the car still takes off in first gear, but it goes to bout 30MPH, before it leaves first gear, and goes into second gear, and then it stays in second gear til about 45-50MPH (still at WOT, full throttle, you right foot hard on the pedal all the way to the floor) at 45-50MPH the car leaves second gear and *shifts* into Third gear - at this point, with your foot on the floor, the car may not leave third gear (or shift) until around 90MPH or so, BUT!!! If at 70MPH you lift your right foot off the gas to let the pedal come up to the halway point, the car will right away shift, or leave third gear and go into fourth gear!


Light the touch on the gas pedal, the sooner the car will shift, or change gears from lower to higher! An automatic *could* be in fourth gear at 20MPH (very light pressure on the gas pedal), or may not shift up into fourth gear until 60-80MPH (very heavy pressure on the gas pedal).

Rules:

Light pressure = early shifting 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th
Heavy pressure = (on the gas pedal, throttle,etc) later shifting (not time so much, but miles-per-hour) 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th
the heavier the pressure on the gas pedal, the lounder the engine sounds
Every car has a different *voice* - deeper, or higher pitched, louder, or quieter
When I am mad I get louder right?
Your car has a louder voice when it is in a hurry
Your car has a softer voice when it is just cruising along nice and easy (like when the cruise control is turned on)

It is perfectly normal for different cars to have different sounding voices.

If you are driving steady at 50MPH, and you want to pass a car in front of you on a two lane road, you will stab the gas pedal to the floor right? Because you were driving steady at 50MPH you would be in the highest possible gear (this case 4th gear) so that your car would be whispering along very softly, when you floored the gas pedal, your car does two things, it "down-shifts to 2nd gear" - just by pushing the gas pedal to the floor it will shift from 4th down to 2nd gear - and your car will start yelling (get much louder) and you will speed up very fast to about 70MPH and as you pass the car in front of you and ease your foot off the gas pedal your car will "upshift" into third gear, and then change from 3rd gear to fourth gear and your car will stop yelling and get quieter again - how's that?

When you are being gentle on your car, her voice is calm and quiet, when you are harder on your car, and telling her to hurry (by pushing harder on the gas peder) she starts talking back at you and gets louder until you ease up on the gas pedel and she stops barking at you and starts humming...


Anyhow - I hope my blathering has helped you a bit? If one piece did not, perhaps another piece did?

An 'adaptive' transmission is *supposed to learn how you like to drive, and it is supposed to learn when to shift the different gears based on how you like to drive - if you baby the car and drive real easy all the time, the car will shift very early and try to keep it's voice very quiet all the time - so you would have to really mash the gas to the floor to get out of someone's way!

If you start to *train* your car that sometimes you like it to yell - then it will learn that yelling is OK, and it will be more willing to learn to yell without you having to push so hard on the gas pedal!

As the other car was a loaner, and many people drove it, and sadly, since it wasn't their car, most did not car how they treated it, so that loaner car learned to yell as soon as anyone barely pushed on the gas pedal - makes sense?

If you want to see how I wrote about computers, feel free to go HERE and look around. I do not work on the site anymore - so I am not trying to advertize anything - just showing a sample of how to write for different people.

I hope this helps you (HTH)
Peter

 

QUOTE (Don67 @ Sep 5 2009, 06:26 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261363

Meagain, you simply need to log some miles on your Santa Fe. No automobile can stand up to the international scrutiny yours has received in its first hundred miles. This discussion about swapping it for another vehicle is absurd... like talking about divorce in the middle of the honeymoon.

Just give it some road time, and give yourself permission to ignore its quirks during this period.

I agree completely! And wish to add - you do not need to baby your car all the time! When I first learned to drive a big truck, I was told to slam my hand in the door, and take out my anger on the truck! Some cars (and trucks) respond better to a heavier touch, rather than a lighter touch.

HTH

 

Peter - I'll have to read your post a few more times to sink it in about the shifting parts.

Here's where you all get to tell me I'm crazy (or not). Made a quick vid on the way to dinner.
Starts out basically coasting down hill to meet the main road. To get out of our subdivision, I have to get on a 4-lane 45 mph road so I have to go from 0-40+ really quick - crossing 2 lanes and getting into the 3rd. This requires some pickup to do safely else I have to wait forever to get a giant gap. So far this isn't going well IMO with the santy.

~~~~ At the 0:40 mark I get on this road. You can see it revs up to about 18-19 mph, then pauses there at 20 mph. Revs up to 20, pauses/thinks, then goes to 30, then after that At 20, I've made the turn and am on a 45 mph road! It's getting to the 20mph and the pause there that bugs me. The noise doesn't come through on this vid. 0-40 took about 12 seconds?

~~~~ At the 2:35 mark, I stop again and go. It revs to 15mph. And here is probably where my issue is. To get to a mere 15 mph - there's a ton of noise. Maybe my issue is the engine just is louder than I recall it should be.

I'll try to make another better video with my real camera to get the real sound of all this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6MHs7kNtcY

 

QUOTE (Meagain @ Sep 5 2009, 09:38 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=261405

Peter - I'll have to read your post a few more times to sink it in about the shifting parts.

Here's where you all get to tell me I'm crazy (or not). Made a quick vid on the way to dinner.
Starts out basically coasting down hill to meet the main road. To get out of our subdivision, I have to get on a 4-lane 45 mph road so I have to go from 0-40+ really quick - crossing 2 lanes and getting into the 3rd. This requires some pickup to do safely else I have to wait forever to get a giant gap. So far this isn't going well IMO with the santy.

~~~~ At the 0:40 mark I get on this road. You can see it revs up to about 18-19 mph, then pauses there at 20 mph. Revs up to 20, pauses/thinks, then goes to 30, then after that At 20, I've made the turn and am on a 45 mph road! It's getting to the 20mph and the pause there that bugs me. The noise doesn't come through on this vid. 0-40 took about 12 seconds?

~~~~ At the 2:35 mark, I stop again and go. It revs to 15mph. And here is probably where my issue is. To get to a mere 15 mph - there's a ton of noise. Maybe my issue is the engine just is louder than I recall it should be.

I'll try to make another better video with my real camera to get the real sound of all this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6MHs7kNtcY

Sound would really help.

Watching the Tachometer with the Speedometer, everything seems normal.

Are you putting your foot to the floor when you turn onto the highway?

David <><

 

You were stopped at 2:40 in your vid.

You restarted, and at 2:43 in your vid, you were only at 2200rpm at the point of your 1->2 shift and at about 16mph. That's about par for the course if you don't put your foot into it. Remember, this is a FIVE speed. Every gear covers a smaller bit of territory than you have seen before. Your first shift will be a lot earlier than you expect if you've had a tranny with fewer gears. And no, 2200 is not many revs (ref your comment about "But it really rev'd, didn't it?"). I don't see anything unexpected in your video at all except for your gentle right foot.