Have a 2016 Sonata with a 2.4l engine. I use full synthetic oil and usually go about 3500 miles between oil changes. I did a hard brake on the highway and the oil pressure light came on then immediately went away. I checked the oil level and didn't even read low. I was about 2000-2300 miles from my last oil change and took 2 quarts to get it to a proper level, seems very excessive. I don't notice any leaks/smoke, PCV valve still rattles and seems in good condition, not sure if that much oil consumption is acceptable and what other causes it could be, thanks.
Excessive Oil Consumption
RamsBasketball
61 - 80 of 97 Posts
Sorry, not going to help!
Look at it this way, with thousands of these cars using oil, it certainly isn't attributed to stuck oil rings.
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John
Some of the diagnosis I've read reveal badly-sludged oil pumps that end-up moderately restricting oil flow thru the engine.
Would a product like BG EPR help with that?
BG Products Link (per Google Search)
Some of the diagnosis I've read reveal badly-sludged oil pumps that end-up moderately restricting oil flow thru the engine.
Would a product like BG EPR help with that?
BG Products Link (per Google Search)
Thanks for sharing, how are the optima's with the 2.4L holding up?
Have failure rates dropped after 2016?
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3,356 Posts
for slugded engine, oil pumps, the ones to use are these 2 jugs 1st one (BG Dynamic engine cleaner) 2nd one (BG rinse oil) and a can of BG MOA. as shown here.
2.4 or 2.0T all the same crap, doesn't matter which engine, they all have a propensity to seize.
The reason the pump is "sledged" up is because of the shavings when the cylinders become
out of round and wear quickly. There's a small screen in the pump housing, that becomes
clogged and away goes the Babbitt and seizure imminent.
At least that's my take, and the reason no type of maintenance will help the condition, but
just can't get my arms around why they don't all succumb to this deficient design
phenomenon.
A little historical data:
I'm a really old guy and maybe 50+ year ago, GM(Pontiac) thought they would make a quieter
V-8 engine, so the result was to coat the cam gear with plastic. Worked great for a while until
fatigue took its toll on the plastic. Pieces would break off and collect on the oil pump screen,
but once the screen was filled and oil flow blocked, a built in safety feature, a relive valve in the
middle of the screen would open, and you guessed the results, plastic would be drawn into the
engine, and as the plastic would eventually block the oil flow, it would seize..........sound familiar?
The reason the pump is "sledged" up is because of the shavings when the cylinders become
out of round and wear quickly. There's a small screen in the pump housing, that becomes
clogged and away goes the Babbitt and seizure imminent.
At least that's my take, and the reason no type of maintenance will help the condition, but
just can't get my arms around why they don't all succumb to this deficient design
phenomenon.
A little historical data:
I'm a really old guy and maybe 50+ year ago, GM(Pontiac) thought they would make a quieter
V-8 engine, so the result was to coat the cam gear with plastic. Worked great for a while until
fatigue took its toll on the plastic. Pieces would break off and collect on the oil pump screen,
but once the screen was filled and oil flow blocked, a built in safety feature, a relive valve in the
middle of the screen would open, and you guessed the results, plastic would be drawn into the
engine, and as the plastic would eventually block the oil flow, it would seize..........sound familiar?
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1,104 Posts
Can the oil pump and this screen be accessed to, without a major Visa Card bill? What about removing the oil pan and cleaning the shavings debris every 75k? I heard there's little room and a PITA job.
Making more sense now-on why I'm buying thicker, top quality motor oils with the best wear protection and the highest trapping oil filters available. Helps to delay the inevitable.
Good info there turbonut.... thanks.
Making more sense now-on why I'm buying thicker, top quality motor oils with the best wear protection and the highest trapping oil filters available. Helps to delay the inevitable.
Good info there turbonut.... thanks.
If you're getting shavings then nothing will save the engine.
Thicker oil will not save you. By the time the debris reaches the oil filter it's already been through the engine.
I'd rather wait til the engine self destructs, then get a new one.
Quality of oil filter won't matter as the debris will build up on the screen, and/or as above, find it's way into the engine and stop
oil circulation.
Never removed the pan, but from what I see, move a/c compressor to side and go to town, @ 1 hour.
Here's something I found:
www.autoserviceprofessional.com
oil circulation.
Never removed the pan, but from what I see, move a/c compressor to side and go to town, @ 1 hour.
Here's something I found:
Hyundai oil pump replacement
Hyundai offers guidelines regarding engine oil pump replacement during engine repair. This includes all models.
www.autoserviceprofessional.com
Chrysler did the same crap on the 318 (not sure about their other engines)
I have a 2019 Sport, just turned 9550 miles. My first oil change, I didn't use any oil, but the TBN, which is a measure of how much lubricating properties are remaining in the oil was at 1.5 at 4800 miles. 1 is considered no longer lubricating the engine. Oil generally starts out with TBN of 6 or greater, so I doubt that if I would have followed Hyundai' advice and waited until 7,500 miles, the oil would no longer be performing proper lubrication. I replaced that oil with Mobil1,5w20 full synthetic.
Today at 9550 miles, I changed the oil again and replaced it with Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic. I again sent a sample off to Blackstone Labs, for analysis. If the results are good, I won't do another test until I hit 20K.
My car doesn't use any oil, I drained out a full 5 quarts both at 4800 miles and today at 9550 miles. I will post the Blackstone results, when I receive them.
Today at 9550 miles, I changed the oil again and replaced it with Quaker State 5w30 full synthetic. I again sent a sample off to Blackstone Labs, for analysis. If the results are good, I won't do another test until I hit 20K.
My car doesn't use any oil, I drained out a full 5 quarts both at 4800 miles and today at 9550 miles. I will post the Blackstone results, when I receive them.
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465 Posts
TBN of 1 is super low; I would not recommend taking it that low. TBN of 2.5-3 is about as low as you want before changing the oil.
I use Amsoil SS and TBN starts at 12.5 and I run it about 10k miles and my TBN ends up around 3 when I change the oil. GDI engines are very harsh on oil and generate lots of heat. If using dino oil I would be on severe service of 3,750 miles; use full syn and 7,500 miles is perfectly fine (use a quality oil filter).
Also I only use Oil Analyzers now (link below) as they are far more accurate than Blackstone and use actual calibrated equipment and ASTM standards. You can buy the kits for ~$30 (includes TBN) which is less than the $40 Blackstone charges.
Oil Analysis & Oil Testing Services - Oil Analyzers, INC.
Oil Analyzers, INC. offers complete oil analysis and oil testing services for automotive, fleet and industrial applications.
www.oaitesting.com
Oil Analyzers Test Kit, UPS Pre-Paid
Shop Oil Analyzers Test Kit, UPS Pre-Paid at AMSOIL. Find premium synthetic oil, filters and more online. Fast, free shipping available.
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4,823 Posts
We don't know the quality of that factory original oil. Plus the effect of breaking in the engine.
After refilling with a quality synth oil I'm sure the next test will be better.
i don't know what kind of oil they use, but based upon my experience, if you don't perform the first oil change well before the 7500 mile recommendation, you are probably looking at damaging your engine.
'
Don't know where that theory came from, but I'd venture to say that will the millions of new cars sold, probably less than 1% would change the oil early
and not see any future problems with their vehicles.
Found this on TBN:
Engine manufacturers may require different TBN levels based on their specific engine design technology. Diesel engine oils are normally formulated with a higher TBN to protect against the formation of acids caused by incomplete fuel combustion. The TBN of fresh oil is typically in the range of 7 to 10 for gasoline engines and 10 to 14 for diesel engines. If the TBN drops to a point where the oil can no longer neutralize acids, usually around 3, it normally indicates it is time for an oil change.
At 4800 miles, mine was at 1.5. So I would assume that is not good for the engine.
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Jeremy
I've used Blackstone and Wix Analysis prior. Thanks for the link to Oil Analyzers. I'll try them next .... probably April 2021.
At first, I'm doing a Virgin Analysis.
It's for the Hyundai 2.4GDI. I'm doing a 50-50 blend of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L 5w30.
My engine drops flashpoint like a boat anchor and it shears 30w oils to 20w in 3.3k. Trying this blend to beef the UOA results next time.
Member Molakule on another board mentioned last week that the only way to test these Analysis is to have both the Virgin and the Used Analysis, to compare side-by-side.
This will be the first time I've done both (before & after).
I've used Blackstone and Wix Analysis prior. Thanks for the link to Oil Analyzers. I'll try them next .... probably April 2021.
At first, I'm doing a Virgin Analysis.
It's for the Hyundai 2.4GDI. I'm doing a 50-50 blend of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L 5w30.
My engine drops flashpoint like a boat anchor and it shears 30w oils to 20w in 3.3k. Trying this blend to beef the UOA results next time.
Member Molakule on another board mentioned last week that the only way to test these Analysis is to have both the Virgin and the Used Analysis, to compare side-by-side.
This will be the first time I've done both (before & after).
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465 Posts
You can certainly send in a virgin sample for your own records if you would like. I am not sure what data the virgin sample would give you that you wouldn't know already? It won't have silicon, iron, or any wear metals and it won't be oxidized obviously. I assume the oil manufacturer gives you the TBN of the oil in their specs or at least Amsoil does. I think Oil Analyzers is far more legit and accurate than Blackstone as I've used both.
If you haven't tried Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 with one of their Ea15K oil filters, I would recommend it for sure. I also have a 2.4L GDI and I run it 10k miles on the Amsoil SS and Ea15K filters and have had no issues with my oil analysis reports. Everyone has their own oil opinions on here and there are plenty of good full syn oils on the market. I am partial to Amsoil bc they don't try to hide any of their oil specs and they make a high quality full syn. They also make a full syn Euro oil you may be interested in as well.
They make one of the best oil and filters.
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Agree on the Amsoil Signature Series oil. But I would never run the Sig-oil longer than any manufacturer's guidelines., either during the warranty period or beyond.
Jeremy
You will become my first Follow member here. I'm interested in reading what's ahead in the next few years, for you and your (I think) 2017 Sonata.
Jeremy
You will become my first Follow member here. I'm interested in reading what's ahead in the next few years, for you and your (I think) 2017 Sonata.
🤥
Why does everyone make a big deal out of the type of oil/filter to use in these, or any vehicle, when it won't make a difference one way or another?
Anyone ever hear of engine failure due to the type of oil being used, as long as it's within the manufacturer's recommendation?
I certainly haven't and have no idea as to how many engine I've had apart/rebuilt.
I've said it before, if the engine is going to go, no matter what type of oil/filter and/or maintenance that one does, it will not stop these
engines from deteriorating, so save your money.
Why does everyone make a big deal out of the type of oil/filter to use in these, or any vehicle, when it won't make a difference one way or another?
Anyone ever hear of engine failure due to the type of oil being used, as long as it's within the manufacturer's recommendation?
I certainly haven't and have no idea as to how many engine I've had apart/rebuilt.
I've said it before, if the engine is going to go, no matter what type of oil/filter and/or maintenance that one does, it will not stop these
engines from deteriorating, so save your money.
61 - 80 of 97 Posts
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